Here are the videos on youtube!

White Smoke

Ticking Noise

BTW the car is a 99 Firtebird with a 3800 V6 and roughly 91k miles
Most recent problem(2weeks ago) Bad misfire & Hard Starting. Culprits: Bad FPR & wires. Car ran great til 2 days ago.

 

White smoke could be caused by condensation, especially if it's been sitting for a while, but it will usually clear up when the car warms up. How does the coolant level look? I think the only way to know what is causing the noise is going to require you to tear into and take a look. Hopefully it's something simple.

 

When you say 'white smoke' are you saying smoke cause the temperature is really cold?

Tapping noise could be a hung up lifter too. But, white smoke is generally the characteristic of water in the exhaust.

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Rick, I convinced after seeing/listening to the videos that the 'white smoke' is condensation (it disappears after a few seconds) real white smoke continues after several seconds. The ticking noise too will either become worse or fix itself. Still say its a collapsed or hung up lifter.

 

Thank guys. It is 38 degrees here with the forecast being snow expected tonight in VA on the coast. I would figure that the white smoke would stop after the car warmed up, but it was still there after 30 minutes! I will pull the valve cover and check for loose rockers. Any advice on a valve lash or adjustment procedure. The haynes manual I have is very vague.

 

Russ seems to like to adjust the valves with the engine running. I have never adjusted them this way, so perhaps he can chime in and give you some tips on how to use this procedure.

 

Usually heavy white smoke that doesnt go away is a sign that you may have a blown head gasket, cracked head or a cracked block.

Does the exhaust smell like burnt anitfreeze?

 

I have a way of adjusting that works great and the engine is off so no mess
But you need a helper if you can get one to turn the motor while you hold the rocker.
First remove the valve covers and get every thing ready for the adjustment ie. socket, ratchet, ect
You need to be able to find the intake rocker of each cyl. as some one turns over the motor with a breaker bar on the crank dampener bolt. Turn the motor the normal direction with your finger on number one cyl intake rocker at the push rod. Feel the rocker going down.. it will stop moving. Rotate the crank a short distance to make sure it has stopped but not so far that it or the exhaust valve rises. At that point you can adjust both rockers on that cyl. Loosen the rocker until the pushrod is loose...tighten it while you spin the pushrod with your fingers. when you feel slight pressure on the pushrod (you want it to be just slightly harder to spin)your done. Do that cyl and then repeat for each cyl. I know it sounds like an extensive way to do it, but its not that bad after the first one and I haven't found a better way to get it that perfect! Its the way we have to do it on a race motor when you are running solid lifters.

Jr

 

That sure looks like a lot of smoke. Check the coolant level in the radiator and if its low you may want to pull that plug out to inspect it. If you have a coolant pressure tester you could pressurize the system and see if that cylinder is filling with coolant.

 

Thanks guys. I am going to try it. I checked the oil, and it still seems fine. No milky color. The oil is still clean looking, it was changed less than 1 month ago. Therefore, I decided to remove the passenger valvecover. I have the valve cover off. The passenger engine bracket was the biggest pain in the butt to remove.

How due I tell if the cylinder I am working on is at TDC withour removing the plugs? Is there anything I should check for before adjusting the rocker arms? They all seems to look fine. No cracks or offset. There only seems to be minimal side to side play in everyone except cyl#2 intake(I think).

Is the valve most forward for each cylinder the intake and the most rearward the exhaust. Thanks.

 

I would try some murphys oil in system or lucas oil add because to me you have some stuck lifters once thats fix then see if smoke still comes out. I have known guys to use this stuff and un freeze them.If lifters have colapsed you won't be able to adjust everything right.I do it when car runs but use an old valve cover with top cut out and you have no mess that way.

 

How do you tell if the lifters are bad? Is there a way to check them? Can I pour the additive on the rockers/lifters directly and then mix the rest with the oil?

 

I would just add it to the oil then as car runs it will work into lifters and freeing them up.After putting in marvel and it stops you know you fixed it.You can put a screwdriver to your ear and the flat end on the rocker and you might be able to find the ones that are making the sound.Also make sure you are getting good oil pressure from pump and you should see oil coming up thru rockers.

 

Well, I have the valvecovers off. i am going to do the adjustment tomorrow using countryboy's method. I figured I would remove the pushrods and take them to work tomorrow and roll them across one of our granite surface plates to make sure none are bent or out of round. I was wondering if there was a way to check the lifters with the rockers off.

After I do the adjustment I will post the results. I really hope this is the problem, and not a rod bearing. I am dreading to rebuild a bottom-end. I feel it would just be easier to replace the motor.

 

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LOSE THE ORDER THE RODS WERE IN. this is a big issue, so do not lose what hole they came from, and what order. Once the rods are out, shine a light in the hole, and see if you can see the lifters. I had a motor with 86k on it, lifter went, then rounded the cam.

 

Okay, here is an update. Went to perform the valve adjustment tonight after work. Upon adjusting cylinder#6 I noticed the exhaust rocker being very loose. It does not sit firmly on the pushrod. The rocker wobbles back and forth with 1-2mm of play. When the rocker rests on the valve, it does not make contact with the pushrod. When it rests on the push rod, it does not make contact with the valve/retainer. No matter how much I loosen and re-tighten the bolt on the rocker, they do not come into firm contact with each other(no where even close). The manual specs only list a max of 11 lb-in (15 Nm) torque on this bolt. I do not want to stretch or snap the head off.

Could this be a collapsed lifter?

 

Sure does sound that way or possibly the roller went. Did you make sure you got the pushrods right?
I wasn't sure on the 3.8 about the different lengths but the 3.1 and 2.8 definetly is

 

It was too cold this morning, and I did not have time to pull them out to test them. So the pushrods are still in the right place. I guess I will be taking the intake manifold off to get to the lifters. Anyone know of an easier way?

 

UPDATE:

I have the intake manifold(upper & lower off), and tomorrow I will change the lifter and push rod. i am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what I may want to look for to replace also while I have the intake manifold off. At 90k miles, should I replace all the lifters just to prevent having this happen again? I am already going to replace the gaskets. I found the cause for my white smoke problem. The upper manifold gasket is demolished. It was melted, warped, and cracked; and cylinder #1 was getting a healthly flow of coolant. Also, I found trace amounts of oil puddled in the corners of the lower manifold where the mounting bolts were inside the lower manifold. Could this just be leakage from the upper manifold gasket and oil from the PCV valve? Just want to cover all bases before proceeding with the repair. It would truly stink to get this all back together only to discover another issue. To everyone who has posted and helped me out so far, Thank you.

 

In my opoin yes it is best to replace all the lifters while your at this stage.

Like mentioned before MAKE SHURE you don't loose what order the pushrods came out.

I used a box with holes in the top to keep them lines up.

Also just an Idea, I'm not shure if your Push rods have holes going thruogh the middle (check either end for a little hole) but if they do make shure oil can travel thru them w/o a problem. I just blew thru them like a straw. An Air compressor will be sure to blowout ANY clogs (or just replace the clogged one/s)

Matt

 

Thanks everyone so far. I pulled the old lifters, and the one in question had a collapsed seat where the pushrod sits. It was loose and jingling around. Now I am putting the rockers back on. An online manual i have states to apply thread locking compound to the rocker bolts. The other physical manual I have does not mection this. Is it necessary?

Also, any suggestion for cleaning out the Intake manifolds. I was thinking foam brite and water.

And, I guess it is suggested to change the oil after this repair seeing that water from the intake manifold spilled down around the balancing shaft when the intake manifold was removed.

Sorry, if I am sounding a bit retarded today. i am having a horrible headache.

 

Your not sounding retarded.
Yes, the best is always to change the oil after this. Just incase carbon, dust, dirt fell in too. Never know. I would use thread lock for the bolt itself, going into the head, but not for the nut. Someone else might chime in too, but thats what i would do. sounds like you found your problem, great work!!! keep it up, and keep us posted

 

UPDATE:

Ok, I replaced the lifters, but used the same pushrods(none were bent). Also I reused all the rockers. All components replaced in the place from which they were removed. The manual for the 98+ Firebird 3.8L engines stated to torque the bolts for the rockers to 11 lb-ft, plus an extra 90 degree turn. No valve adjustment needed b/c the system is supposedly self-adjusting(sounds a little odd to me). So, I do as the manual states. Then I completely cleaned out the intake manifolds and throttle body, and re-assembled everything.

Moment of truth: I crank her over and start her up. Still chatter! Not as bad as before, but similiar. Is this normal? Will the valvetrain self-adjust after a while, or i am facing another issue?

 

With that setup there will be a little noise for a short time.
what oil are you using? weight? brand?
How does the oil pressure look?

 

I always use Valvoline 10W-30(conventional) in all my cars. The oil pressure sits steady at around 65-70 psig.

I pulled the valve covers back off today and found one loose rocker. So, i tightened it up and tried again. There was still a tapping noise. So, I grabbed my stethoscope and listened to each valve cover. The passenger side was finally quite(the side with the problems), and now the driver side was the one tapping. Then, I pulled the driver's side cover, and really did not find much. Two rockers had a little play in them, so i am going to readjust all of them tomorrow and go for round 3. At this point, this is my last attempt before I give up and go to the dealer.