HELP! Overheating & smoking from rocker cover filters!
Terry77TA
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Did you possibly delete the PVC system in your efforts to clean things up? If so, it needs to be reinstalled, or you can do serious damage to the engine, as acids build up in the oil due to piston ring blowby not being pulled out of the crankcase by a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve/system. Are you seeing a buildup of brown sludge on the inner surface of the oil fill cap?
Im only loosing coolant threw rad cap, gets very hot so pushes out threw there, i did put a new bottom hose on as the previous 1 would suck in when reving motor so installed 1 with spring inside, also put a newer harder heater hose. as for the PVC system, smog pump set up, yes i did remove it, is there any other way to vent things? could i use 2 oil breather rocker cover caps that have outlet pipes and run hoses from them to the air cleaner? or is reinstalling smog stuff the only way to fix problem? will check for brown sludge under cap asap..Cheers
Ok, no slude build up, althow i havent run it longer than 10-15mins due to heat & im goin to take rad out & reinstall the factory 3 core to see if maybe the 5 core has issues, will update later,Thanx
Ok, no slude build up, althow i havent run it longer than 10-15mins due to heat & im goin to take rad out & reinstall the factory 3 core to see if maybe the 5 core has issues, will update later,Thanx
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PCV:
You need to establish a cross-flow of air through the crankcase. You won't get that with a breather on each valve cover. That is typically done by applying a vacuum, via the PCV valve to one side of the engine, and letting air flow in through the breather cap on the other side of the engine. The vacuum is typically supplied by the engine/intake. If you go wayyyy back, engines used to have a draft tube to pull a small vacuum on the crankcase - simple as a vertical tube, ending under the car in the airstream. The horizontal air stream, moving past the open end of the vertical draft tube developed enough vacuum to pull air through the crankcase when the car was moving.
And alternative to the draft tube is a connection on the exhaust system, downstream of the manifolds. A tube attaches perpendicular to the exhaust pipe, and the fast-moving exhaust gasses "educt" the crankcase contents. That's popular in racing engines, where you really don't want the chance of entrained oil entering the combustion process via manifold vacuum, and reducing the effective octane of the fuel, causing detonation.
The problem with blowby in the crankcase is that one of the products of burning gasoline is water vapor, and when the "wet" blowby gasses enter the crankcase, the water can condense and contaminate the oil.
COOLING:
On the cooling, are you sure the fan is rotating in the correct direction, pulling air through the radiator? Are you using the correct t'stat? Notice you have an auto trans.... does the new radiator still cool the trans, and if so, is it possible the trans is overheating?
A potential problem with a 5-core setup is the huge amount of obstruction to air flow - the thicker the radiator is, the harder to pull air through it. This can cause the clutch type fan to work poorly. There is also a need for a good shroud around the fan, matched to the overall dimensions of the radiator, to insure air flow through the entire surface area of the radiator, and not just in a small circular area defined by the diameter of the fan.
It is actually possible to reduce cooling when going from a 2-core to e 4-core, and I suspect your 5-core may need some help in the fan department.
You need to establish a cross-flow of air through the crankcase. You won't get that with a breather on each valve cover. That is typically done by applying a vacuum, via the PCV valve to one side of the engine, and letting air flow in through the breather cap on the other side of the engine. The vacuum is typically supplied by the engine/intake. If you go wayyyy back, engines used to have a draft tube to pull a small vacuum on the crankcase - simple as a vertical tube, ending under the car in the airstream. The horizontal air stream, moving past the open end of the vertical draft tube developed enough vacuum to pull air through the crankcase when the car was moving.
And alternative to the draft tube is a connection on the exhaust system, downstream of the manifolds. A tube attaches perpendicular to the exhaust pipe, and the fast-moving exhaust gasses "educt" the crankcase contents. That's popular in racing engines, where you really don't want the chance of entrained oil entering the combustion process via manifold vacuum, and reducing the effective octane of the fuel, causing detonation.
The problem with blowby in the crankcase is that one of the products of burning gasoline is water vapor, and when the "wet" blowby gasses enter the crankcase, the water can condense and contaminate the oil.
COOLING:
On the cooling, are you sure the fan is rotating in the correct direction, pulling air through the radiator? Are you using the correct t'stat? Notice you have an auto trans.... does the new radiator still cool the trans, and if so, is it possible the trans is overheating?
A potential problem with a 5-core setup is the huge amount of obstruction to air flow - the thicker the radiator is, the harder to pull air through it. This can cause the clutch type fan to work poorly. There is also a need for a good shroud around the fan, matched to the overall dimensions of the radiator, to insure air flow through the entire surface area of the radiator, and not just in a small circular area defined by the diameter of the fan.
It is actually possible to reduce cooling when going from a 2-core to e 4-core, and I suspect your 5-core may need some help in the fan department.
Hi Fred, cheers for your input,
ok, ill run a PCV valve1 side & normal breather the other but do i need to run the PCV valve to the intake manifold only or ,maybe where the brake booster hose is running 2? , to create the vacuum or would bottom of the carb even be ok?
on the cooling side, yeh, the thermastate is the same factory 1 that was in there & seems to work fine, the clutch fan is the factory 1 also & i think your right about not pulling enuff air threw, too bloody thick, i cant get factory shroud to fit around it so will swap out the 5 core & retry 3 core to see if things change. the trans is running threw its own big cooler so is no prob,
appriciate your help ,Terry
ok, ill run a PCV valve1 side & normal breather the other but do i need to run the PCV valve to the intake manifold only or ,maybe where the brake booster hose is running 2? , to create the vacuum or would bottom of the carb even be ok?
on the cooling side, yeh, the thermastate is the same factory 1 that was in there & seems to work fine, the clutch fan is the factory 1 also & i think your right about not pulling enuff air threw, too bloody thick, i cant get factory shroud to fit around it so will swap out the 5 core & retry 3 core to see if things change. the trans is running threw its own big cooler so is no prob,
appriciate your help ,Terry
View attachment 121265
View attachment 121265
Ok, got the PCV sorted, so far so good anyway, ive put 1 on the drivers side cover, running to the front of carb where a block off rubber grommet was that sucked & then stalled when i removed it, seems to work good, ive left the fancy Edelbrock oil breather on passenger side. will take for decent drive once temp issues sussed, swaping radiators soon so will update later.
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Ive reinstalled 3 core factory rad, put twin electric fans on & a temp gauge to monitor things & so far so good, hovers around 160-180 so hoping thats were it stays, goin for big drive 2moro so will update 2moro night, Americarna is in town & its rego day! will post a pic or 3! cheers
Well, not quite but thanx heaps Fred 4 your help, i appoligize 4 jumping in Fuel gauge querie as well, the trouble shooting attachment posted was awesum & helped me solve that prob,
Now, unfortunatly my over heating issues are still annoying me. i reinstalled the 3 core, twin electric fans that covered 99% of rad, got to 240 2day in slow traffic! had to stop for 30-40 mins to cool down, i swaped twin fans back to normal shroud & clutch fan but no joy, hit 220 pretty quick, came home, put the 5 core back in, running the twin fans but...got to 240 again! i give up! goin to book it in to a radiator shop (local rodder guy) who should look after me.
gutted i couldnt go for decent outta town cruise with other cars..... got a few pics anyway.will put them in gallery cheers
Now, unfortunatly my over heating issues are still annoying me. i reinstalled the 3 core, twin electric fans that covered 99% of rad, got to 240 2day in slow traffic! had to stop for 30-40 mins to cool down, i swaped twin fans back to normal shroud & clutch fan but no joy, hit 220 pretty quick, came home, put the 5 core back in, running the twin fans but...got to 240 again! i give up! goin to book it in to a radiator shop (local rodder guy) who should look after me.
gutted i couldnt go for decent outta town cruise with other cars..... got a few pics anyway.will put them in gallery cheers
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OK... we are 1/2-way there. Let's think some more about the cooling problem.
I've got a 2-core Griffin aluminum radiator, stock dual electric fans and shroud, radiator sealed carefully to the front ducting (4th Gen is a "bottom feeder") where the A/C condenser was removed. TH400 is cooled separately by a fan assisted cooler. No problems in traffic, with the controller set to hold 195*F (runs a 160*F t'stat, due to the "reverse flow" cooling used in the LT1 engines). Your system should be able to handle the 350 Olds, although I have no experience at all with Olds engines.
I've got a 2-core Griffin aluminum radiator, stock dual electric fans and shroud, radiator sealed carefully to the front ducting (4th Gen is a "bottom feeder") where the A/C condenser was removed. TH400 is cooled separately by a fan assisted cooler. No problems in traffic, with the controller set to hold 195*F (runs a 160*F t'stat, due to the "reverse flow" cooling used in the LT1 engines). Your system should be able to handle the 350 Olds, although I have no experience at all with Olds engines.
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A well fitting fan shroud would be key...I use a twin electric fan in my with Air Conditioned car especially in this Texas heat. The shrould is sealed to the rad core with split tubing.
There could also be a water side problem, is the water pump a known good piece? Are the correct size pullies on the water pump?
When the thermostat is stuck closed or partially stuck you can usually still cool at low speeds but when the engine starts to work at speed it will overheat. Have you had a good look at the thermostat?
There could also be a water side problem, is the water pump a known good piece? Are the correct size pullies on the water pump?
When the thermostat is stuck closed or partially stuck you can usually still cool at low speeds but when the engine starts to work at speed it will overheat. Have you had a good look at the thermostat?
Ok, in a moment of weekness & extreme tired ness,(doin 12hr night shifts at mo) yes, i nearly gave up....1st ill answer the questions , yes the clutch fan seems to b in good normal operating cond,spins freely & true & pulleys are all inline with no wobble, ive tryed it with the factory set up, overflow back in,shroud reinstalled as it was when i got car but this set up overheats, also the trans cooler is mounted clear & away from airflow for rad & trans doznt run hot, next the twin electric fan set up seals near perfect over the 3 core & pulls lots of air threw but that set-up overheats also, the thermostate could be faulty? as it doz seem to stay open but ive tryed it with & without it & doznt change the temp condition, also the water pump seems to pump well, the water flows nice threw both rads,doznt make any suspect noises, so dont think thats the prob, also, it is very hard to get Olds V8 parts here in NZ, not imposible, just hard & exspensive, will replace if have 2 of course, ive now tryed the 5 core back in with the fans mounted on the front blowing air threw it & this seems to be the best its cooled so far, 180-200 but i havent had a long enuff run to see if completly cured, when i 1st got car (last pics) it seemed to run cool & fine,so im hoping the overheating doznt have anything to do with the smog gear i removed? surly that wouldnt effect it? anyway, ive also met a guy at Americarna 2day (follow TA owner) who is willing to have a look at her 2moro arvo for me & see if he can help identify the prob, thanx so much for all your guys help, luv my car so much & just wanna be out on the road, cuising as she should be! essecially at the moment while the shows in town, cheers
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A faulty or partially stuck thermostat could cause these issues...and hopefully not too expensive in NZ...worth looking at in my opinion.
Running wihout the t-stat is not a good idea. The water pump impeller is designed to run with a certain backpressure, when the t stat is removed it is possilble to cavitate the pump as the backpressure the pump is depending on is no longer there. Also keep in mind you can have water velocities through the radiator core that are too high to allow adequate heat transfer.
I dont think removing the smog equipment would cause overheating.
Does the car run okay otherwise?
I dont want to suggest an unlikely scenario that would alarm you unnecessarily, but if you have a compression leak into a water jacket that could also cause an overheating scenario (crack in cylinder wall allowing combstion air into coolant passages)
Running wihout the t-stat is not a good idea. The water pump impeller is designed to run with a certain backpressure, when the t stat is removed it is possilble to cavitate the pump as the backpressure the pump is depending on is no longer there. Also keep in mind you can have water velocities through the radiator core that are too high to allow adequate heat transfer.
I dont think removing the smog equipment would cause overheating.
Does the car run okay otherwise?
I dont want to suggest an unlikely scenario that would alarm you unnecessarily, but if you have a compression leak into a water jacket that could also cause an overheating scenario (crack in cylinder wall allowing combstion air into coolant passages)
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When you say the fan spins freely, how freely? How long does it take for it to stop when you shut the engine off? How many times does it rotate when you give it a good spin with your hand? It should stop within a second or two of shutting off the engine, you might be able to spin it half a turn by hand.
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I would also be looking at your timing. And vacuum advance. If your pulling too much timing you can run hot too. As well as ported/full manifold vacuum on the dizzy can make differences on different engines. My 455, while it runs nice with full manifold vac on advance. Pulled too much advance at idle/low RPM that she ran warmer. Just another thing to look at. Too much timing will cause the fire to light sooner, making more flame inside the cyl and more time for the heat to soak into cyl walls and coolant. Lower compression engines may not detonate and seem to run fine with this high timing but can run warmer
Hi, Ok, ive removed & tested thermostat & its definatly faulty, was jamed open, probally from the heating its been getting? & when i managed to get it to shut i tryed the boiling water test & it wouldnt reopen, ive sourced a new 1 for $40 including post so will try that when recieved., the fan is tight & doznt spin freely as such, just the half turn as myk74 has suggested, & yes stops turning after engine shut off as well how yourve said., as for the way it runs & the timing/tune its at, after removing the smog stuff i did turn the dizzy a little to make the idle drop down , cant remember which way i turned it but it made it start & run drive & idle nice, i also installed new NGK spark plugs & leads & the place i got them from did tell me they were `hot ` plugs but should only make it run a little hotter 5/10 degrees i think they said? so i will inquire again when they open 2moro, & see if possible to get colder 1`s, the plugs were quite hard to get & only 1 shop was able to get a match for me so i may have to import sum?
how the motor runs----
she ticks over beautifull, no pinging/knocks or rattles & is 1 of the smoothist V8`s ive eva had, thats why i dont wanna give up on her, seems to have plenty of guts, cruises along nice, sounds great with its Magnaflow exhaust so rather than go the Chev smallblock route that so many people have told me to go, i`d rather persist! thanx so much for your guys help & feedback, great to have support!
The pics are from Americarna yesterday, was 5 Gen 2 birds i came across. awesum day! was so proud 2 be there, yeh, i didnt have the best paint, non matching mags, interior a little scruffy,overheating so couldnt do the big town cruize, but had a blast & plenty of possitive, supportive comments so, i have a goal or 3 for the next 1, better paint & feet & be fully operational! Cheers
how the motor runs----
she ticks over beautifull, no pinging/knocks or rattles & is 1 of the smoothist V8`s ive eva had, thats why i dont wanna give up on her, seems to have plenty of guts, cruises along nice, sounds great with its Magnaflow exhaust so rather than go the Chev smallblock route that so many people have told me to go, i`d rather persist! thanx so much for your guys help & feedback, great to have support!
The pics are from Americarna yesterday, was 5 Gen 2 birds i came across. awesum day! was so proud 2 be there, yeh, i didnt have the best paint, non matching mags, interior a little scruffy,overheating so couldnt do the big town cruize, but had a blast & plenty of possitive, supportive comments so, i have a goal or 3 for the next 1, better paint & feet & be fully operational! Cheers
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"Hot" spark plugs don't make the engine run hotter. Simply means the tips of the plugs stay hotter to burn off carbon buildup. Go too hot, and you get detonation. Do you hear a sound like someone rattling ball bearing in a can, when you hit the throttle hard?
I would get the timing specs for the engine, and use a timing light to set the initial advance, and to check the vacuum advance.
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