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Fourth gen 3.8 v6 air intake modification

20K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Patches33001  
#1 ·
I have managed to glean some information about modding air intakes from Firebirdnation.com, my biggest problem I had was I never saw any pictures associated with the mods or the mods only showed the finished product. What I really wanted was a step by step process and pictures to help me complete the project. So what I did was interpret what a variety of post tried to describe as the "Air intake modification" and pieced together that information to compile the beginning of my project. When I figure out how to complete the project , I will post those pictures also of my progress. I would also appreciate any feedback on how to complete this project (how to run a pipe from the air box to the engine? im stumped), what you think of my beginners attempt at the mod, and if the information helped or not! Due to image size limitations per post I have to choose between multiple small photos or just three large ones so I edited down the size of my photos, if you have trouble seeing something let me know and I can post the original in a comment
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My box prior to modification.

This is the lid from the air box. The baffles that I will be removing are located here. The lid comes off by pulling up the two hinges, loosening the screw on the hose and sliding the back brackets out of their holes on the back of the top.

This is what you should see with the top off of the air box, as you can see I have a new K&N air filter installed, if you look close you can see 86,025 miles written in black sharpie. I like to have a idea of how long I have had a air filter in to prevent overchanging the filter (supposed to be good for 12k miles)

Air filter removed. Now look closely in the picture, you should see four bolts. remove those four bolts with a 10mm socket and pull the plastic assembly up and towards you.

Here you can see where the box used to be, you can see the four bolt holes easily.

This is the bottom piece that I modified. I cut the two inner squares out using a dremel tool.

Dremel tool and attachment I used to modify my box as can be seen in the next photo.
Dremel tool used to cut the squares out in the middle to allow more airflow

Dremel tool used to remove and grind down the baffles. I then used a heat gun to melt, smooth, and create a even surface on the lid.

I put 5 washers per stack on top of the four bolt holes. I then placed the bottom of the airbox on top of the washers. I threaded my bolts through the box, through the washers , and tightened them into their respective nut. Which created, when installed, It was quite a impressive amount of space for air to flow into the box. The hood closes just fine with no box rub with five washers installed.
Top view of the description above before I placed the bolts through the bottom part and the washers.


There would of been more pictures but I can only upload 1k per FBN. If you need originals let me know. Sorry I had to edit the photos down. Please comment
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#2 ·
normal airbox mod, good for you. except the ribs on the top piece don't need to be removed, they're as much to keep the top lid flat as anything.
 
#4 ·
I test drove her at about 60 mph for fifteen minutes on the first day of the partially completed mod (I still need to straight pipe from the airbox to the engine), I noticed she felt a little peppier, she didn't feel as bogged down, the motor and exhaust sounded deeper, and when I had a friend rev her in park I could hear her taking in air. Now this may all just be perceived differences with no real gains but I believe it actually helped and didn't hinder. My biggest reason why I believe now is last night I drove her 144 miles, averaging 80mph, and I could actually hear the difference and feel the difference as I zipped along. She responded better to acceleration and didn't seem to labor on hills. Let me restate these are my perceptions and it is possible that when I drove the car before the mod on 9/13 for 144 miles it was about 5 degrees warmer out that day, she had a noticeable shake above 70mph, and it felt like I was trying to tow a anchor when accelerating. Also on 9/12 I had just done a full synthetic oil change and hadn't driven more than five miles before I hit the interstate for the 144 mile roadtrip. So the difference between the 9/13 144 mile trip and 9/15 144 mile trip was five degrees in air temperature, oil that should of been better broken down, no unexplained vibration at 70+ mph, security light never came on once (which the only thing I can think is, because the car was able to drink in more air she didn't vibraye, which in turn didn't mess with my security system if there is something wrong with the security system) better acceleration and passing power.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the advice! Quick question, what is the silencer behind the air box? Is it the mesh screen I saw connected to the engine side of the air tube? What is a MAF screen and should I keep it ot remove it? Can you post a picture of your modified air intake for comparison? Sorry i'm a visual learner lol.
 
#7 ·
View attachment 51290 The silencer is the big plastic piece between the throttle body and the air box. It is your air box, the ribbed connector, the silencer, then another accordion type connector then the throttle body. DO NOT remove the MAF screen. That will hinder you in the end. It is needed to properly calibrate the air flow. The Mesh screen you describe is probably the MAF screen.

Some people use the stock accordion style connectors but just buy the coupler from home depot because that will keep your air passage smooth and less turbulent.

 
#10 ·
Ribbed connectors I have been calling air tubes lol, okay I get it now, remove the silencer and connect the two ribbed connectors together with a 3x3 rubber coupling. Air intake box is where the air initially enters into the vehicle, then to a ribbed connector, then the silencer, then to another ribbed connector, through the maf screen that appears attached to the throttle body. Thanks for the great info. I was thinking I had to pipe from the air intake box to the throttle body, I was not looking forward to trying that level of customization, connecting two ribbed connectors sounds alot easier.
 
#11 ·
Im not sure if you have one but a cold air intake would be great with this mod
 
#20 ·
This is my next mod. Do you think cutting the plastic, raising it, and removing the silencer will be close to the K&N intake mod? That's like $400 and I don't want to spend THAT much on an air filter and some plastic. Huge rip off!

It probably doesn't do as much but I'm sure it will have a small noticeable boost.
 
#21 ·
So this is basically how you can turn your base intake into a ram air? I might do this myself, the k&n is way too much, even after my discount at work. I wonder if you can do this and then add the k&n filter from the cai kit for much cheaper? You'd have to MOD the filter box and/or change it out all together but I think I may be able to make this work.