Would I be able to check it myself with the correct scanner? And sort of but not too down on power. I do have to step on the gas a little harder at certain times to get the car to accelerate, but the car accelerated fine.Cat could be plugging up, based on the symptoms you describe. Does it feel like the engine is down on power while driving? A mechanic or exhaust shop can check the exhaust system for excessive back pressure. Only other concern requiring replacement would be failing an emissions check, traceable to a low performing cat.
Interesting. Those codes do not appear only P0300, P0441, P0135 appear which have to do with the ignition and Evan systems. But I hear a rumbling from the exhaust so my thought was that the noise it was due to the catalytic converter. My idle is also rough at when stopped.Only if you're getting a check engine light for throwing cat codes. Look for code(s) P0420 and/or P0430. P0420 is for bank 1 cat low efficiency, 430 would be for bank 2. I don't know off-hand if the V6 model has two cats or not.
Air pump is deleted also, could that be throwing off my codes?Interesting. Those codes do not appear only P0300, P0441, P0135 appear which have to do with the ignition and Evan systems. But I hear a rumbling from the exhaust so my thought was that the noise it was due to the catalytic converter. My idle is also rough at when stopped.
Thank you so much! This information is extremely helpful. I plan to remove and clean the evap purge valve tomorrow but how would you suggest I repair the heater malfunction issue? Not super savvy with electrical things, and I've already replaced the upstream bank 1 o2 sensor throwing the code.The V6 has one cat.
There is an O2 sensor in each bank's exhaust system (Bank 1/Sensor 1, and Bank 2/Sensor 1). Then there is a pre-cat sensor (Bank 1/Sensor 2) in the combined section of the Y-pipe, and an after cat sensor (Bank 1/Sensor 3).
Only P0420 is used for "Cat System - Low Oxygen Storage Capacity". That code will not affect the way the engine runs unless the cat is blocking flow. If the cat substrate is breaking up, it might not set the code.
P0300 sets when random misfires occur. That does not necessarily point to the ignition system.
P0135 is a code for the heater malfunction in Bank1/Sensor1. Not related to the ignition system. Since that is the only "heater" code set, it is either a wiring failure from Fuse #6 in the underhood box. Or the heater n the sensor is faulty. The fuse is OK, because it also supplies the other 3 O2 sensor heaters. You need to repair the problem, because the O2 sensors need to be kept above 600-degF to work. At idle, or low engine load, the heater circuit may be required to keep the sensor working, and controlling the A/F ratio. Cat failures are often the result of excess fuel being burned on the surface of the cat, and melting it, or cracking it.
P0441 is for EVAP System Incorrect Air Flow. When the PCM wants to purge the EVAP canister in the rear fender, it opens a vacuum solenoid near the engine, and engine vacuum pulls air through the canister to remove collected gasoline vapor from the canister, and burn it in the engine. The is a vacuum detection switch in the line from the canister to the solenoid. If the switch detects no vacuum in the line when the solenoid is open, it sets the code. This error can upset the A/F ratio in the engine. Check the solenoid to make sure it opens when 12 volts applied.
I recently replaced both my pre-cat sensors with Bosch ones (made in USA). Is that not good? So far no codes. They are not that hard to replace for me, so don't worry about me being overworked ;-) I noticed that most AC Delco ones are made in China..not really a problem for me.The heater is internal to the O2 sensor. It heats the sensor up to 600°F, the point at which it starts to work. The brown wire in the vehicle harness supplies 12 volts via the brown wire, pin “D” on the vehicle harness side of the connection. Connector off the sensor, key on, test voltage between the brown wire and the black wire (pin “C” ground). The wire colors may be different on the sensor itself.
If you don't have 12 volts between the brown and black wires, there's a problem with the wiring. Check for an open (infinite resistance) on the black wire (black wire to good chassis ground). Check for an open (0 volts) on the brown wire (between brown wire and good chassis ground).
Do not touch the other two wires in connector with the meter leads because you don't want to back-feed the PCM.
If you have ~12 volts the sensor is likely at fault. Replace only with an AC Delco sensor.
Volts are good and I replaced with the AC Delco. Honestly no clue what could be tripping the code. Going to clean sensors today and pray I see an improvement.The heater is internal to the O2 sensor. It heats the sensor up to 600°F, the point at which it starts to work. The brown wire in the vehicle harness supplies 12 volts via the brown wire, pin “D” on the vehicle harness side of the connection. Connector off the sensor, key on, test voltage between the brown wire and the black wire (pin “C” ground). The wire colors may be different on the sensor itself.
If you don't have 12 volts between the brown and black wires, there's a problem with the wiring. Check for an open (infinite resistance) on the black wire (black wire to good chassis ground). Check for an open (0 volts) on the brown wire (between brown wire and good chassis ground).
Do not touch the other two wires in connector with the meter leads because you don't want to back-feed the PCM.
If you have ~12 volts the sensor is likely at fault. Replace only with an AC Delco sensor.
My mther had a 91 Ford Ranger. Started to rattle. It was the cage around the cat. Should throw a check engine light if they are bad. My minivan did.Hey guys, what are the main symptoms that i need to replace my catalytic converter? Or symptoms you’ve experienced before you had to change yours? There’s an annoying rattle in coming from my exhaust and I’m getting sort of worried. Car also idles sort of roughly when I’m stopped or in park. Looked through the service manual and these symptoms could be for a number of things. But my car sometimes cranks for a few seconds longer than normal in order to start, which makes me feel the cat converter might need replacing. But again that symptom could also be for a number of things. Anything helps thanks.
