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All you need is some gasket seal nice socket set and a gasket scraper
valve covers take around 15 min each depending on how much crap is in the way

Oil pan maybe 30 min just be careful of you oil pump you dont want to F*** it up when you drop the pan
 
Never changer them on a lt1 but i dont think it should be any difference maybe just take a little more time all your oil pans have a sump pump in them
and as far as vavle covers i assume its all relative to any other vehicle
 
Ya, the valve covers are easy, you just need to move some stuff out of the way. The oil pan can be a chore if you are doing this while the engine is in the car. You also have to put the sealant in the correct area and DON'T Forget the pan rails. If you are going to do this, let me know and I will post the shop manual instructions for you.

Bob
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
the pass. side is leaking it looks like. Yes the motor is still in the car. Please post the manual for me. I am not sure if anyone has ever touched the valve covers or not. I thought it was oil spilt on the valve covers but that would not still be burning off would it? This was like 3 weeks ago or so.
 
Here is the instruction for replacing the oil pan and gasket:

I am going to make this into a tech article, so written by Robert Forney.

Removal:

1. Disconnect the Negative battery cable.
2. Remove the Air Intake Duct.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Drain engine oil.
5. Drain Coolant.
6. Remove oil sensor connector (located on the oil pan).
7. Remove oil level sensor assembly (located on the oil pan).
8. Remove teh exhaust crossover pipes from exhaust manifolds.
9. Remove exhaust pipe hanger bolt/screw and reposition pipe.
10. Remove engine oil cooler host bracket nut from oil pan assembly.
11. Remove engine oil cooler bolt/screw from engine oil cooler assembly and reposition engine oil cooler hose assembly.
12. Remove transmission fluid cooler lines from clip at oil pan assembly (automatic transmission).
13. Remove starter motor.
14. Remove torque converter cover bolts/screws and cover (automatic transmission only.
15. Remove engine mount through bolts/screws.
16. Raise the engine with a hoist.
17. Remove oil pan bolts.
18 Remove oil pan assembly, reinforcements (rails), and gasket.

Install:

1. Apply sealant to the front cover assembly and engine block junction and to the real oil seal housing and engine block junction (look closely at the diagram posted below). Apply about 1 inch in either direction of the radius cavity of these junctions (again, look real close at the diagram posted below)

2. Install oil pan gasket, oil pan assembly, and Reinforcements. DO NOT FORGET THE REINFORCEMENTS, DO NOT FORGET THE REINFORCEMENTS (I don't want you to forget the reinforcements!).

3. Install oil pan screws/bolts and tighen corner bolts to 15 ft lbs and the remainder to 11 NM.

4. Lower engine

5. Install engine mount bolts and tighten to 70 ft lbs.

6. Install oils level sensor assembly and tighten to 16 ft lbs

7. Ubstakk Starter motor.

8. Install transmission cooler lines to clip at oil pan assembly (automatic trans).

9. Install oil cooler bolt/screw to engine oil cooler assembly and tighten to 24 ft lbs

10. Install engine oil cooler hose bracket nut to oil pan assembly.

11. Install exhaust pipe hanger screws/bolts.

12. Install exhuast crossover pipe to exhaust manifold assemblies.

13. Install oil level sensor connector

14. Lower vehicle, add oil, coolant, and asssemble air intake duct, and negative battery terminal.



 

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Discussion starter · #19 ·
ok by far the WORST encounter i have had with the car is the pass. side valve cover. It SUX trying to get it back on. I have it on and buttoned up but it was time consuming.
 
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