Firebird Nation banner

Tutorial Request? Refinish Valve Covers

4K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  brarei200 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well this Winter I want to refinish my valve covers and the top of my intake by my self. Possibly polish my alternator. I don't wanna take them somewhere and pay so much.

They look dull and have water spots, ect. Polish does nothing. I think they need a full wet sand. I don't want them to be a mirror if possible. You can see what they looked like new in this picture kinda.



Can someone post / make a tutorial on how to do this with pictures and everything?

 
See less See more
2
#2 ·
The first picture looks like a bare stock steel valve cover, the second picture looks like it's an aluminum cover????
 
  • Like
Reactions: brarei200
#5 ·
You want to know how to polish aluminum?
 
#6 ·
Get a product called Aluma Bright. Cleans alum really well!!! Keep off paint, use in ventalated areas. It's no longer avail in Canada tho, as it's too powerful I guess
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Somewhere I have a guideline I wrote on polishing a set of Baer aluminum brake rotors to a mirror finish. I've done my fuel rails and Holley throttle body as well. They stay bright, with periodic application of Mothers billet metal polish. Never had a problem with them discoloring or corroding. A buddy of mine with a 93 LT1 had the ridges machine off the intake manifold, and polished the smooth top (93 does not have the slot for the diagonal fuel rail front crossover pipe.)

And here's some links to guides to polishing wheels:

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/wheels-tires-49/wheel-tire-faq-general-topics-312442/#post2597354

Links are outdated..... try this:

http://www.eastwood.com/polishing-wheel-aluminum-polishing-aluminum-wheel-polishing-kit
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Somewhere I have a guideline I wrote on polishing a set of Baer aluminum brake rotors to a mirror finish. I've done my fuel rails and Holley throttle body as well. They stay bright, with periodic application of Mothers billet metal polish. Never had a problem with them discoloring or corroding. A buddy of mine with a 93 LT1 had the ridges machine off the intake manifold, and polished the smooth top (93 does not have the slot for the diagonal fuel rail front crossover pipe.)

And here's some links to guides to polishing wheels:

http://www.camaroz28...42/#post2597354

Links are outdated..... try this:

http://www.eastwood....l-polishing-kit
Thanks, engine looks good as always.
 
#11 ·
Hey I just practiced polishing my old exhaust tips off my v6. I started with 80 and went all the way up to 2000. I didn't have anything between 600 and 1000 so I think it could of turned out a lot better.

What grit do you think I should start on for my valve covers? I was thinking 600-1000?? then work my way up to 2000?
 
#12 ·
Are you trying to polish aluminum covers or steel covers?
 
  • Like
Reactions: brarei200
#14 ·
Are they scratched or pock-marked? I'd start with a buffing bob and compound and see if it responds. All my rail and throttle body work in the photo above was done with nothing more than Mother's Billet polish on a rag. But they were smooth to begin with. If you have to sand it, I'd see how it responds to the finest grit you have (2000?)
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
You didn't use sand paper to polish your throttle body? Just Mothers Polish???

And they are not scratched. They just have water spots and look dull. Nothing you can feel with your finger or nail. When I pop them off soon I will use my drill buffer with some Mothers Polish and see what happens. And good call on starting with 2000. Thanks!
 
#22 ·
At lease you did them I hate messing wit chrome and my new fuel lines are chrome

You did a good gob and that's one thing I don't like to mess whit is aluminum and chrome. The new fuel lines I have for my 79z28 are chrome and I don't know if I will put them on.
 
#23 ·
What brand are those? They look like they are well designed to clear the alternator.

Looks good.... what procedure did you end up using?
 
  • Like
Reactions: brarei200
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
The side with the alternator is notched out. I don't know what they are honestly, they were on the car when I bought them but the ad says " Ball Milled Valve Covers". I'll check for a part number on the bottom and let you know.

For the driver side, I wet sanded 180, 320, 400, 1000, 1500, 2000 then buffed it. (Didn't have nothing between 400 and 1000 so I hit it really good with 1000)

For the passenger side I used Scotch Bright then 1000, 1500, 2000 then buffed it.
 
#26 ·
There's several companies making high temp spray paint nowadays. Go to amazon.com and search for engine paint. There will be a billion come up all different colors. Just get the high temp stuff. Some will specifically say it won't withstand temp from the heads or exhaust but there are plenty that will. Looks real nice Brandon.
 
#28 ·
That's what I used and haven't had a problem with it. Mind you I have only had it on there a couple weeks. I think it should hold up fine. I've shot my block with a thermal gun before after 30 mins of interstate driving and it's only in the Mid 200's. As long as you aren't painting the headers you should be good.

VHT also sells some that supposed to withstand up to 550 degrees intermittenly.

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP452-Anodized-Purple-Color/dp/B00296KGAC/ref=pd_sbs_auto_8
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top