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· Larry
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I have read lot's about what to mate with what, what amp is the best, what speakers are the best, and tuners and so forth. But it goes much deeper than that. A lesson I learned from my father.
A career military man, he devoted life in the military to the study and mastery of electrical components. As a retired business man, I was amazed and frustrated, at how a stereo system he would install in a customers car, would sound so much cleaner, and crisper than my installs.
My father, is who through wanting to be like him, how I ended up an I&E guy.

But here are the MAJOR criteria to having good clean sound with any stereo system.

1. Today's market offers many good name brand tuners/cd to install in your vehicle. The choice is yours.
2. Same can be said of speakers, again choice is yours.
3. Amps, for those who like for their bones to rattle as they drive down the road are many. Like above. your choice.

Now, we will start with WIRE:
RESISTANCE

Resistance is by far the most important specification of speaker wire. Low-resistance speaker wire allows more of the amplifier's power to energize the loudspeaker's voicecoil. The shorter the cable and the greater the conductor's cross-sectional area, the lower its resistance. Depending on the hearing ability of the listener, this resistance begins to have an audible effect when the resistance exceeds 5% of the speaker's impedance.A speaker wire's impedance takes into account the wire's resistance, the wire's path (coiled wire acts as an inductor), and the dielectric properties of local insulators. The latter two factors also determine the wire's frequency response. The lower the impedance of the speaker, the greater a significance the speaker wire's resistance will have.

WIRE GAUGE

Thicker wires reduce resistance. The resistance of 16-gauge or heavier speaker connection cable has no detectable effect in runs of 50 feet (15 meters) or less in standard domestic loudspeaker connections for a typical 8 ohm speaker. As speaker resistance drops, lower gauge (heavier) wire is needed to prevent degradation to (damping factor)-a measure of the amplifier's control over the position of the voice coil.

SPEAKERS

1.Resonance is the moving system of the loudspeaker (including the cone, cone suspension, spider and the voice coil).

2.Impedance is defined as the frequency domain ratio of the voltage to the current. (In other words, if replacing old worn out speakers, and keeping OEM tuner use speakers of same value....ie 4 ohm- 8ohm). If replacing whole system, get speakers to match the values of your tuner.
Typical nominal impedences are 4,6,8, and 16 ohm speakers.

WATTAGE

This simply put is the measurement of the efficiency of the loudspeaker. The impedence of speakers changes with frequency, which means that if different tones are fed into the speaker at the same voltage, the amount of power used will vary.

With all the above being said, LMAO to summize, to have a good quality sounding stereo system does not mandate 1000 watt amps and speaker boxes that weigh 100 lbs. The human ear can ONLY hear so much, before you just cannot tell the difference anyhow.
I have an Alpine cd player, matched to 8 Bose speakers in the Infiniti.( Not the original speakers that came in it, which were also Bose). Replaced the speaker wire throughout the car. I also made sure when replacing the speakers to remove any vibration before final installation. Replaced the cardboard covers underneath the rear deck with styrofoam insulated wooden ones, made by myself.
Now the true test comes with the actual sitting in the car, turning on the radio, or cd and listening to what comes out. For endorsement of the sound quality, ask my son. In his Ford f150 extended cab, he installed a Kenwood reciever, and 6 of the Kicker speakers, with an 400 watt amp. Ask him which vehicle has the Better, clearer, crisper sound.
What I am trying to say is, don't run out and buy the most expensive, tuner,amp, and speakers. Do some research, and match your components by values, not price. Make sure you have the right size wire for the application from tuner to speaker, and then do the same for amp, and finally to your power source. Would be a shame to hook all this up, and SMOKE it, because you undersized any part of the process. Have a great day everyone.

Dammit man, what a long post. I need to cut down on my coffee intake this time of night. Sorry folks!!!
 

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Good info Larry, some people make the mistake of buying high wattage speakers and a cheap, low powered amp.
You will never hurt speakers with too much power, speakers are ruined by being under powered which causes distortion, the distortion is what creates heat and fry's the voice coil.

For building boxes best to use Baltic Birch than any other material for a tight and musical response.
 

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Very good and informative post.!!Excellent.

But what is car sound?It is bascially controlled vibrations.

In sound competitions there are two different classes. SQ and SPL

SQ is Sound quality and SPL is just how much air can you move in a car or vibration, all about bass.This can permanently damage your hearing.If after listening to loud music you get a ringing sound in your ears then you ARE damaging your hearing.

With SQ you can only hear clarity to a certain degree,.A sensor is positioned where the driver sits and specific music/ sounds are played at a certain volume and a computer monitors/ determines the clarity of sound from your vehicle.This is where sound quality comes in.Power is not needed as all you will do is hurt your ears.LOL.

With SPl the same system of measurement is used but the amount of air movement or pressure increase inside the vehicle is measured.(for me not music but important for others)
 

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Good info Larry, some people make the mistake of buying high wattage speakers and a cheap, low powered amp.
You will never hurt speakers with too much power, speakers are ruined by being under powered which causes distortion, the distortion is what creates heat and fry's the voice coil.

For building boxes best to use Baltic Birch than any other material for a tight and musical response.
I have had many shops tell me that and they ate their word later. That is not all true. Distortion will cause speakers to be blown physically, cook the voice coil or lock up completely. Too much wattage can also cause the voice coil to cook. It will usually happen slowly though depending on much you overpower the subs. You will not even know it is happening until your speaker is nothing, but a paper weight. Early in my stereo days I went through more subwoofers than I care to mention because I was running them on amps too big for their ratings. Some would last a few months some even a year, but sooner or later the voice coil would crystalize everytime. You best bet is to try to match the RMS power of the speaker with the RMS power of the amp. Ever since I started doing this I have never had another speaker problem again. This is now going on 5 years with no problems on the same speakers. It is also a good idea to get the gains on the amp properly set. This will prevent overworking the amp and believe it or not will also squeeze you out a few more DB's. Turning the gain all the way up will nine times out of ten cause the amp the peak in volume to soon.

Also, I personally would stick with MDF. It is very stiff and has been the top choice of box builders for a long time. Just my opinion.
 

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Nice post. When installing audio equipment in your car, keep in mind that its 5% equipment and 95% install. A shitty install will mess anything up. Me and a friend of mine install audio all the time and i see people in yukons and damn huge SUVs with Kickers and whatnot claiming their poopy is loud and when we pull up with some crappy 12' Pyramid subs and a decent Alpine amp, in a closed box and we just blow them out with them. LOL, just remember, its the install that will make the difference, not the equipment.
 
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