Actually I could use some help with that. I got a used control arm on. I removed about half of the shims. Both the front and back bolt had a little over a half inch of shims. I left 2 1/8 shims each on the front and back. It appears by the eyeball that I still have significant negative camber. And it also looks like the top ball joint is further forward than the lower, which should be the opposite for positive caster.^ Even then, it can be measured and fixed. (In most cases).
I feel like I'm talking to myself. The last person out of here turn off the lights.The passenger side of the hood is raised about an inch at the hinge after replacing the fender. It was also this way with the damaged fender. Since the hood bolts to the fender via the hinge, all I can think of is a bent hinge, but I don't see anything obvious. The hinge is already adjusted all the way down ie bolts are riding on the top of the slots.
The way I do alignments is just keep making small changes until I'm happy with the way the car feels. You need more toe-in than factory spec to get a wheel you don't have to constantly fight to keep it in a straight line and that creates more tire wear but that's the cost of having a nice driving vehicle. Most of us have tires that dry rot way before they wear out anyway.. I don't know if it is as precise as what an alignment shop can get on a rack, but what I like is that I can change the settings myself and get the steering feel I like, and not just what some manual says. My tires are wearing fine, and I would have gone broke if I took my car to an alignment shop every time I wanted to try a different setting just to learn about how some change effects the way the car feels. Basically, I like the factory settings OK (which are different from year to year, even for Camaro vs. Firebird), but I like a bit more castor.alignment, or ride height, I would take it to a frame shop and see if they can straighten out something,