hood details

414 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by shawngone, May 6, 2022

shawngone

Discussion Starter · May 5, 2022

Hi Everyone, I have a question regarding the details of the trans am hood. In the photo you will see a flat area, and a low area, with a swale. I trying to determine if the low spot was created by closing the hood over the years (dent) or if that is part of the hood detail. and the little rigde on the top, is that one straight ridge or does it have a slight arch in the area of concern. Its my first trans am and dont have anything to go off of.. thanks

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Aus78Formula

· #2 · May 5, 2022

Fairly standard from being pushed on to shut.

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shawngone

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 5, 2022

Ok so, it should be flat, there's no curvey, or depression in the correct detail? , should be flat? I thought maybe where the bird tail feathers landed it might have a weird detal..lol Its hard for me to see

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NOT A TA

· #4 · May 6, 2022

Check/fix the material used between the hood and inner structure and fix as needed otherwise the sheet metal will flex up and down while you're sanding and you won't be able to block it "flat" so to speak. The 3 M products work well between the inner structure and sheet metal. If you have the hood latch and hood adjusted properly I'd have the hood closed and latched when you're blocking out filler & primer.

The center ridge is arched from the from the leading edge of the hood to the shaker opening. No part of the hood is flat flat, it's all gentle curves.

Is this your 1st attempt at bodywork?

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shawngone

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 6, 2022

The hood is flexing a LOT, the metal is so soft. its bouncing for sure. I can see it flexing. I defiantly need some product to prevent it before the next step. Ive been doing body work on this car ..on and off for 2 years haha. so This is my first car bodywork. fortunately the only rust was driver side floor board from leaking t top, and the pan is already replaced.

I have great body lines aside from this hood area to guide me. Heres what Ive done so far, sand to bare metal, pull dents, fill anything large, then shopline epoxy primer, apply full skim of filler, block sand, then i apply another light coat of epoxy primer. I have a gallon and a half of feather fill, to spray and guide coat. then 2k primer and base coat clear coat will be done in a spray booth

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I get more pictures on here.

with all the flexing, I was thinking i probably should have tack welded it from the back or something, your recommendation sounds like a great approach. Is it some sort of 3m epoxy?

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NOT A TA

· #6 · May 6, 2022

Special putty type stuff that solidifies but will give a little as the metal heats/cools. Look inside the hood and you'll see where the factory put it. You'll probably find gaps where the sheet metal exterior metal isn't touching the putty stuff.

You're working too small an area with your filler. Double the size and use the longest flexible 3M block you have for that area. Don't press hard on the block. Use long strokes in an X pattern.

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shawngone

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 6, 2022

NOT A TA said:
Special putty type stuff that solidifies but will give a little as the metal heats/cools. Look inside the hood and you'll see where the factory put it. You'll probably find gaps where the sheet metal exterior metal isn't touching the putty stuff.

You're working too small an area with your filler. Double the size and use the longest flexible 3M block you have for that area. Don't press hard on the block. Use long strokes in an X pattern.

Thanks for the tips, I could really use the help. Will do

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