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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having a couple of problems...

Ill also check and swap out the oil sending unit on other engine to see if thats the deal...

The oil gauge is reading pretty high and pegs before start, just with Key turned to on.

When started it will drop to 90 when I hit throttle but returns past 100. I ran engine to 166 degrees with no change. (it read a bit low with factory gauges) under 50 around 45 down to 25 when punched...

On the Fuel Gauge I guess Ill check the White TA and see if he bought the sensor which he said he bought all new so if so Ill switch it out and that should solve that issue.

If not Ill have to search for the ohms settings and see if I can resist it to accomplish that.

If you have done this please advise what solutions you came up with.
 

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']['exXxas']['itan
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Use the sending unit from the donor car in order for the gauge to read right.
 

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I did and for the oil and also water went up a bit and is reading more sensitive....

Both gauges are now working, the only one left is fuel, and I can not crawl under car to get to it until I yank engine and fuel pump...

At least the guy didnt lie about anything I can find yet...

View attachment 159953

I have now installed the dash, Fuel level is the only gauge acting up now ...

I have to wire up indicators for blinkers and high beams...

Speedo and figure out the Fuel
 

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']['exXxas']['itan
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The fuel gauge should work with the stock sending unit. 0-90 ohm should be std for all GM cars of this era. how are you hooking the gauge up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I traced factory wire hooked a clip to it and connected to gauge? lol

The other lead is constant hot so it was the best guess I had.
 

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']['exXxas']['itan
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My gas gauge goes to pin when off like it should then rises very minutely even after I added over 4 gallons.

Im thinking the ohms may be correct and the fuel level may be represented a little lower than my last gauge.

Its in the Garage so I am not taking her out for a fill up, only takes about an hour to get it out of door opening..lol

I need a good floor jack..lol

Anyway Im good for the time on the gauges, I have indicator lights on the way, and I will complete them, then chill until transmission and engine are in.
 

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I like em, but do they come with Blue backlights? New gauges is on my list too
 

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You may want to check out the same gauges Not a TA used in his SEMA set up the billet styled bezel rings looked aggressive and the black face was nice in front of Carbon fiber...

Basically NOPE...I know me too, I wanted Red or maybe a blue darker (no powder puff)

The light is soldered into the circuit board...If you remove the covers you void the lifetime warranty...

I asked if they would do a set they said no.

But I like it, another thing about LED they dont dim so what you got is what you got...I can get it to dim like it looks like it flickers and is toned down maybe 5 lums...lol

Indiglo look is cool and not too much that is over powers the vision...

I would do a google for After Market Dash Gauges then click imiages buttun and go until I found ones I liked...

These came with car and I instantly wanted to change them to red but nope not happening...so im keeping mine since they came with other car...

Otherwise I probably would have went with a different style. But I also am very happy with the upgrade as is...
 

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OOooo, good to know about the dimming. I like them dim.
 

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Here is the completed Dash Transformation with Autometer NV Gauges

With a run down overview...

The NV gauges that came with donor car I bought were 5" Tach and Speedo-

The factory Dash cluster included a Dual Gauge in the 2 3/8" opening between Tach and Speed that displayed Oil pressure and Engine Temp.

Since when you remove and switch to after market you will need to either open a new gauge hole up (usually down by AC vent location if there your good if not cut one hole)

This will allow you to use Engine temp Gauge in original location and then make oil pressure first gauge on run toward passenger side...

Then add Volts then fuel in AC vent or added opening.

Next you will need to remove bracing as pointed out above, I had to trim a bit more off the left side by the edge of the Light switch, plus I needed to trim down the center post right side bottom of speedometer by Climate control switch.

Then I opted to make my own harness for about 15 bucks verses buying one from Autometer...

You will need matching sending units to get the correct more accurate and sensitive readings. So for oil pressure gauge you will need the Autometer oil sending unit.

Same for all except the Fuel gauge where you select the Manufacturer then follow along to match to your vehicle 90 ohms I think was max for TA 2nd gen.

Then after you make the wiring harness providing the Pwr, ground and illumination wires you can bend the light negative and ground it to center post elliminating one set of extra grounds...or use short jumper ...

I bent the blade over then forced it to pinch against into a thread let go and its there...(Ill add a pic showing Blad bent over If I have one...)

So you can grab a diagram for plug wiring schematic, or do like I did look at the gauge cluster then follow the trace for the lead from sensor (or run new leads- I retained factory)

then you can remove the plug and p[lace with your cluster...leave enough for future connections...

Dont forget the Blinkers were inside the gauges and you lost them unless you bought replacements with high beam indicator and blinkers...

I opted for a round led light to insert into the triangle cut blinker slots.

12 mm is the roundness I selected allowing me to drill them deburr and then insert lights. I used red for blinkers and a blue one for the high beams. You will see I placed a small square piece of tape over prior to painting gold to match the rest of the dash...

Then wired to trigger wires and grounded with dash board ground, and then re install...

Before I started

View attachment 160257

Original Gauge cluster I replaced.

View attachment 160217

Backside where you can follow wire traces to gauges, grounds all run together leaving only the trigger or sensor wire to identify

View attachment 160225

Marked up to show extra ground tab bent to coneect eliminating an extra set of wires.

View attachment 160249

To install 5" instead of 3 3/8 I think...you will need to enlarge the opening obviously...

I added the Gold tape to an existing bezel that was precut for 5+, but a dremel and five minutes a side and your golden if you need to increase size...

Here with Help from NOTATA Here is a General markup for cuts

Be prepared to have to clearance in the dash to put the panel in with the aftermarket gauges.

Keep in mind you need to keep support for the dash like in the pics below. You'll need to cut where the white marks are.

FirebirdTAdashbuild203.jpg

FirebirdTAdashbuild202.jpg

FirebirdTAdashbuild207.jpg

Final

View attachment 160241

View attachment 160233

This now completes this thread...lol :lol:
 
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