[Jpar]

I introduced myself on the forum and the introductory yesterday. Excuse me because sometimes things sound a little weird because I use voice command on my phone but I try to correct.. while new to this car forum I've been on a different brand car forum for many years so I'm thankful and appreciative of any advice and will reciprocate when I can and give results of my advice...
Some some of my fondest memories of driving or in my 93 trans am. I've had three others that were older styles. I just purchased a 95 with a 6 speed...
It was a flip car for the guy that I bought it from but I did a Carfax and it does have three previous owners with 75,000 miles.. new paint new rims and tires.. I'm absolutely sure all the rubber has been replaced around the window seals it's just too nice...
On to the mechanicals that's my thing..
So I was told the oil was changed so I'll check that. I trailed it 2 hours last night to my friends storage unit. He owns the place. He also has a car lift that will get the car about for feet off the ground.. this next Tuesday or Wednesday we're going to put it on the lift and I want to start by taking the rear diff cover off replacing it with new fluid and reseal it as it's leaking. While I'm under there I want to change the transmission fluid I guess it's ATF on the stick shift...
The previous owner said he did look that up and said it's the good positive rear end? Not sure what kind of fluid to use there or how much?..
As of right now the low coolant light is on and I'm going to try and pull that sending unit out and clean it or just replace it likely as I've read a little bit about that... The fans seem to kick on almost immediately... Of course for the very first time and it didn't happen on my two test drives of course LOL it was idling a little bit erratically last night when I pulled the top trailer?..
I really want to tackle the spark plugs which I know are a complete nightmare for a couple of them but that's fine. On my last one I took it to the dealership at 97,000 miles and they told me it had 100,000 mi plugs on it and didn't replace them, I nearly lost it... I'm not sure what plugs make these cars happiest if there is a certain one that does?..
Didn't notice any oil leaks.
Once I get all the mechanicals up to snuff I'll work on the small cosmetic things.. the rear hatch struts, the antenna makes the noise like it wants to come up but it doesn't for the radio. The driver side rear tail lens has some significant cracks in it I'd like to replace it. The headliner is starting to peel away on the passenger side and this is the tea top by the way. For a couple hundred bucks probably just replace it..
When I hit the electric trunk button inside it didn't work. Have to use the key.. the driver side unlock button is pushed in and I'll need to get something there like the whole new plastic holder or something, that still needs investigation.. I need key fobs and maybe a second key.. it has a complete alarm system that I have no idea how it works... The previous owner just pulled the fuse..
So for the next few days I'm just going to gather parts and fluids and hopefully get some feedback here...
Thank you for everybody's wisdom advice and experience...

 

[brianb]

We've met already but welcome aboard again! Congrats on your new car. I won't be able to help a whole lot on your generation F-Body. I'm a dinosaur living in the past driving a 50 year old Firebird. But I will offer this as you sort things out. I would give LubeLocker gaskets consideration for your projects. I'm pretty happy with the transmission pan gasket I installed and would use them again.

 

[ZumpTA]

Check with your local Chevy dealer for the lock and window switches first if you'd rather have "OEM Quality". As recent as a couple years ago, they were still available here. I'm guessing they were pretty common across GM's makes/models for a while.

 

[Injuneer]

I'm absolutely sure all the rubber has been replaced around the window seals it's just too nice...

I sold my 94 Formula last year, after owning it for 27 years. All the weather stripping, seals, etc. were in "like new" condition. Just depends on how well they were taken care of and what environmental conditions the vehicle was exposed to.

I want to start by taking the rear diff cover off replacing it with new fluid and reseal it as it's leaking. While I'm under there I want to change the transmission fluid I guess it's ATF on the stick shift...
The previous owner said he did look that up and said it's the good positive rear end? Not sure what kind of fluid to use there or how much?..

The following is based on my 94 Owner's Manual, cant think of any reason the 95 would be different.

Limited slip (positraction) rear axle (standard in all V8 models) takes 3.5 pints of SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant, plus 4 ounces of GM Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant (LSD ???) additive - GM part #1052358.

The Borg-Warner T56 tranny requires 8 pints of Dexron II auto trans fluid. That's from the earlier manual. Eventually the sticker on the trans was changed to Dexron III. The current Tremec FAQ (Tremec purchased T56 from B-W in 1998) confirms Dexron III.

As of right now the low coolant light is on and I'm going to try and pull that sending unit out and clean it or just replace it likely as I've read a little bit about that... The fans seem to kick on almost immediately... Of course for the very first time and it didn't happen on my two test drives of course LOL it was idling a little bit erratically last night when I pulled the top trailer?..

The fans kicking on immediately is often due to a fan relay, coolant temp sensor, or other related code being set in the PCM. The low coolant light only connects to the dash light (via a latching relay) so that would not be the basis for the PCM turning the fans on early, or setting the trouble code.

I really want to tackle the spark plugs which I know are a complete nightmare for a couple of them but that's fine. On my last one I took it to the dealership at 97,000 miles and they told me it had 100,000 mi plugs on it and didn't replace them, I nearly lost it... I'm not sure what plugs make these cars happiest if there is a certain one that does?..

NGK Iridium TR6IX, gapped to 0.50".

The original AC Delco plugs were "double platinum" - a small platinum puck on the center electrode and ground strap. The pucks had a tendency to fall off, opening the gap up as far as 0.100" if both of them fell off.

When I hit the electric trunk button inside it didn't work. Have to use the key..

Check "Courtesy Fuse #8" in the end of dash fuse panel - powers the hatch release actuator. The actuator grounds to a screw on the hatch release actuator mounting bracket.

Check "PWR ACCY Fuse #7", same location - powers the signal side of the hatch release relay, through the hatch release switch.

Download the factory service manual, look at pages 8A-135-0 through -5. There is a schematic and two diagnostic logic diagrams.

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

 

[Jpar]

I sold my 94 Formula last year, after owning it for 27 years. All the weather stripping, seals, etc. were in "like new" condition. Just depends on how well they were taken care of and what environmental conditions the vehicle was exposed to.



The following is based on my 94 Owner's Manual, cant think of any reason the 95 would be different.

Limited slip (positraction) rear axle (standard in all V8 models) takes 3.5 pints of SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant, plus 4 ounces of GM Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant (LSD ???) additive - GM part #1052358.

The Borg-Warner T56 tranny requires 8 pints of Dexron II auto trans fluid. That's from the earlier manual. Eventually the sticker on the trans was changed to Dexron III. The current Tremec FAQ (Tremec purchased T56 from B-W in 1998) confirms Dexron III.



The fans kicking on immediately is often due to a fan relay, coolant temp sensor, or other related code being set in the PCM. The low coolant light only connects to the dash light (via a latching relay) so that would not be the basis for the PCM turning the fans on early, or setting the trouble code.



NGK Iridium TR6IX, gapped to 0.50".

The original AC Delco plugs were "double platinum" - a small platinum puck on the center electrode and ground strap. The pucks had a tendency to fall off, opening the gap up as far as 0.100" if both of them fell off.




Check "Courtesy Fuse #8" in the end of dash fuse panel - powers the hatch release actuator. The actuator grounds to a screw on the hatch release actuator mounting bracket.

Check "PWR ACCY Fuse #7", same location - powers the signal side of the hatch release relay, through the hatch release switch.

Download the factory service manual, look at pages 8A-135-0 through -5. There is a schematic and two diagnostic logic diagrams.

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

Well hell's bells you can't ask for better information than that! Thank you!...
Going to go ahead and start collecting up the fluids plugs and other things needed for Tuesday Wednesday when I'll get a chance to work on this... Hopefully I'll be able to drive it out Wednesday and finally bring it home...

 

[Jpar]

I sold my 94 Formula last year, after owning it for 27 years. All the weather stripping, seals, etc. were in "like new" condition. Just depends on how well they were taken care of and what environmental conditions the vehicle was exposed to.



The following is based on my 94 Owner's Manual, cant think of any reason the 95 would be different.

Limited slip (positraction) rear axle (standard in all V8 models) takes 3.5 pints of SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant, plus 4 ounces of GM Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant (LSD ???) additive - GM part #1052358.

The Borg-Warner T56 tranny requires 8 pints of Dexron II auto trans fluid. That's from the earlier manual. Eventually the sticker on the trans was changed to Dexron III. The current Tremec FAQ (Tremec purchased T56 from B-W in 1998) confirms Dexron III.



The fans kicking on immediately is often due to a fan relay, coolant temp sensor, or other related code being set in the PCM. The low coolant light only connects to the dash light (via a latching relay) so that would not be the basis for the PCM turning the fans on early, or setting the trouble code.



NGK Iridium TR6IX, gapped to 0.50".

The original AC Delco plugs were "double platinum" - a small platinum puck on the center electrode and ground strap. The pucks had a tendency to fall off, opening the gap up as far as 0.100" if both of them fell off.




Check "Courtesy Fuse #8" in the end of dash fuse panel - powers the hatch release actuator. The actuator grounds to a screw on the hatch release actuator mounting bracket.

Check "PWR ACCY Fuse #7", same location - powers the signal side of the hatch release relay, through the hatch release switch.

Download the factory service manual, look at pages 8A-135-0 through -5. There is a schematic and two diagnostic logic diagrams.

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

For whatever reason summit said those pledge run either recommended or don't fit which I know that's just their thing. Is there a reason you recommend this particular spark plug? And good Lord $8.99 each LOL...

of

 

[Jpar]

Also I was looking up some different rear diff oils and some of them said that they have the friction modifier already and then?..

 

[Injuneer]

My bad on the plugs (pledge?). I used the TR6 with a small shot of nitrous, one step colder than stock. The TR55 IX is the correct heat range for a normally aspirated, stock-ish LT1.

This is a very good chart for plugs for various LT1 engine configurations - it starts with a stock configuration:

Spark Plug Reference Chart - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board

N2O Tech - Spark Plug Reference Chart - Hey guys, been working on this for a little while and finally have it ready to post. Maybe someone can sticky it to the top so that people can easily reference it? It's fairly hard to compare each manufacturers heat range since there are so many factors...

www.camaroz28.com

Not sure why Summit feels they “don't fit”. The plug specs exactly match the GM factory specs. I‘ve been recommending the NGK plugs for 20+ years. The results with these plugs, posted on a site like CamaroZ28.com with over 100,000 members (I'm the Administrator) have proven the recommendation correct. Unlike the gimmick plugs like the Bosch multi-electrode, E3’s, and others, never saw anyone with the NGK plugs in correct heat range, correctly gapped, have any problems.

Be VERY careful with the differential. You have an Auburn cone-style limited slip. Do not use synthetic. Auburn cautions that they do not recommend synthetics because they have not had an opportunity to test them with synthetics. See second question in “Maintenance and Warranty”.

I've always used the GM LSD additive. Never tried a brand with the friction modifier already mixed in. But the pre-mixed brands seem to be proliferating more recently and it's got to be 10+ years since I changed the lube in my Strange Engineering 12-bolt/Eaton Super Duty clutch-style limited slip rear, because the car sat for a long time and I finally sold it last year.

I tend to follow the recommendations of the component manufacturer and my engine builder. Like most engineers (mechanical, licensed professional) I'm anal in that respect. If someone can come up with a lubricant or component that is better, based on competent test data, I’ll take a look at the data and make up my mind.

 

[Jpar]

My bad on the plugs (pledge?). I used the TR6 with a small shot of nitrous, one step colder than stock. The TR55 IX is the correct heat range for a normally aspirated, stock-ish LT1.

This is a very good chart for plugs for various LT1 engine configurations - it starts with a stock configuration:

Spark Plug Reference Chart - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board

N2O Tech - Spark Plug Reference Chart - Hey guys, been working on this for a little while and finally have it ready to post. Maybe someone can sticky it to the top so that people can easily reference it? It's fairly hard to compare each manufacturers heat range since there are so many factors...

www.camaroz28.com

Not sure why Summit feels they “don't fit”. The plug specs exactly match the GM factory specs. I‘ve been recommending the NGK plugs for 20+ years. The results with these plugs, posted on a site like CamaroZ28.com with over 100,000 members (I'm the Administrator) have proven the recommendation correct. Unlike the gimmick plugs like the Bosch multi-electrode, E3’s, and others, never saw anyone with the NGK plugs in correct heat range, correctly gapped, have any problems.

Be VERY careful with the differential. You have an Auburn cone-style limited slip. Do not use synthetic. Auburn cautions that they do not recommend synthetics because they have not had an opportunity to test them with synthetics. See second question in “Maintenance and Warranty”.

I've always used the GM LSD additive. Never tried a brand with the friction modifier already mixed in. But the pre-mixed brands seem to be proliferating more recently and it's got to be 10+ years since I changed the lube in my Strange Engineering 12-bolt/Eaton Super Duty clutch-style limited slip rear, because the car sat for a long time and I finally sold it last year.

I tend to follow the recommendations of the component manufacturer and my engine builder. Like most engineers (mechanical, licensed professional) I'm anal in that respect. If someone can come up with a lubricant or component that is better, based on competent test data, I’ll take a look at the data and make up my mind.

I certainly wasn't questioning credibility or anything like that and definitely going with your recommendations I just do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions and as a result no more than I need to LOL... I like learning..

 

[Jpar]

pledge... LOL voice command...

 

[Injuneer]

No problem - I didn’t take it as questioning, or anything negative in any way. I just wanted to give you an insight to my psyche…. for all you know, I could have been an NGK salesman. I like it when people back up their thoughts with some hard data.

 

[ZumpTA]

I ran NGK in my 2-stroke dirt bikes for 13 years. They stood up against oil fouling much better than any other plug I had used prior. I have used them exclusively for everything they cross-reference to ever since.

 

[Jpar]

I use them in my 73 duster...

😉...

 

[brianb]

Any plans for a tunnel ram on your new car?!?!

 

[Jpar]

Any plans for a tunnel ram on your new car?!?!

Well first thing I did order was a car cover this morning. As I was alluding to I want to get all the mechanicals in the drivetrain and their best order. Then I don't probably get the few interior things like a new shifter boot that lock switch on the driver side is falling in so you can't use it. The headliner is starting to peel back and I'll probably fix that. The antenna you can hear it buzz back there when the radio turns on but it doesn't come up....
Once those things are done I'll probably head back underneath and start tackling the suspension and steering rack and rear diff areas. Get all the bushings and everything replaced that need replaced....
According to the Carfax it's spent its first two years at the beach so the underside has surface rust on the rear axle in the lower a arms are all rusty. Nothing that looks terminal but stuff I would like to replace...
I really have no plans for horsepower modifications as you can see in the picture I posted and I've got something that'll take care of the people who want to drag race...
Handling and drivability is with this one is going to be about.. I've been looking at stuff like this...

 

[Jpar]

I may or may not have mentioned the low coolant sensor light is on and I'm not sure if this question was answered. But would that turn the fans on real soon? It seems like they're coming on almost right away.,

 

[Jpar]

Yep on second look this has been answered..

 

[Jpar]

The only 80-90 weight gl5 I could find was a Castrol limited slip... Not sure if I should put more limited slip modifier or not?..

 

[brianb]

What's your Duster run? 10.0s? I had MoPars before my Trans Am.

 

[Jpar]

What's your Duster run? 10.0s? I had MoPars before my Trans Am.

When I dragged it it had different gears and a different cam I was doing low 11s at 119 mph at around 2800 lbs without me.. with that trap time it's easily a high 10 second car that I just wasn't interested in putting more money into the suspension to get the 60 ft time down.. I did install a clutch tamer and could have went that route but I just got disinterested in drag racing the expense and the heat... Sit in a 97° heat take a pass wait another hour take another pass and take four or five passes and all afternoon and only get 11 seconds of fun...
I added the nitrous during the pandemic but more just to learn how to do it. It's got everything window switches low pressure switches bottle blanket all wired everything it needs perch kit.... Timing retard lol., Just never got to the track yet to try it....
Actually thinking about selling it but I won't sell the motor or transmission or all the MSD stuff... Anyways if you want to personal message me about anything else on this car that's fine we better not muck this thread up too much...
He'll get me started talking about the 74 power wagon I just did a five stage powder coated frame off restoration on the last couple years...