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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my Trans Am worked on by this place called Competition Auto in spring lake NC. And ever since I got it back from them after they replaced my clutch and rear main seal. My clutch just feel way stiffer than usual and shifting feels off as well it doesn't feel smooth. Any ideas? And that and the wiring harness that runs along side of the transmission was disconnected and just dangling except for one syliniod at the end of the harness was connected. What could have happened if I didn't find what I found I'm just curious. Any help is greatly appreciated thanks.

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Did they put a competition type clutch in your car? If yes, they are much stiffer than stock. If no, there's something amiss.

If the later, take it back to them and have them fix the problem. If the clutch is competition type, learn to live with it.

Which brings up the point that using higher performance parts will downgrade the luxury feel of oem parts, in many instances.
 

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1994 Firebird Formula 381ci LT1 / TH400+GV O/D
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What brand/model clutch did they install, stock or aftermarket?

Which side of the trans was the disconnected harness on? Passenger side is backup light switch. Driver side is VSS (speedo), reverse lockout, and skip-shift solenoid (skip-shift we all disconnect).

Have you checked the level in the clutch master cylinder? Have you talked to the shop, or asked the shop if they bled the hydraulics correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have checked the fluid levels and they are fine but they claim to put a stock clutch on it. o_O :/

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1994 Firebird Formula 381ci LT1 / TH400+GV O/D
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What about the other questions?

Did they resurface the flywheel?
 

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Aside from the others questions and statements, I have to ask: how long have you had the vehicle? My clutch has *always* been "stiff" and shifts are as firm or smooth as *I* make them. The only exception being when my hydraulics were failing, the pedal was "soft" and when my clutch was slipping...

While there is a posibility there is something wrong, there is also a posibility it is as it should be. It's a modern muscle car, not a toyota carolla. The clutch IS normally heavy.

If you've had the car for years, you know what is normal and something could very well be wrong. If you've only had it a few months, it's possible it was wrong (slipping clutch, mushy pedal) to begin with and you got used to it thinking it was normal. When I bought my T/A the clutch was so bad it wouldn't even try to spin the wheels, even if dumping the clutch at WOT.

What is all the work the repair bill state was done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes all the work was done that they quoted me on and they did send my fly wheel out to get resurfaced but I've owned her for about 2 years now. I'd rather be safe than sorry not knowing what I should know. On how she's supposed to actually be. I was just concerned about the work done with the harness how it was just hanging and if I got a shitty/shady place that worked on my ride. But I do appreciate you guys giving me info about how she's supposed to be.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What brand/model clutch did they install, stock or aftermarket?

Which side of the trans was the disconnected harness on? Passenger side is backup light switch. Driver side is VSS (speedo), reverse lockout, and skip-shift solenoid (skip-shift we all disconnect).

Have you checked the level in the clutch master cylinder? Have you talked to the shop, or asked the shop if they bled the hydraulics correctly?
Which one is the skip shift???

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1994 Firebird Formula 381ci LT1 / TH400+GV O/D
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With skip-shift, a light will come on the dash, indicating skip-shift is active. When you try to shift from 1st gear at certain low throttle/low RPM conditions, it forces you into 4th gear. Just about everyone pulls the connector off the skip-shift solenoid (see photo). That will set a code in the PCM and turn on the SES light. You can buy a $30 "skip-shift eliminator" to plug into the harness, or you can get a 50-cent resistor (2 Kohms) and plug the ends into the harness connector and tape it up. That eliminates the code and the SES light.

Has your skip-shift ever worked?

This is an LT1 T56, but everything behind the front cover on back is the same as the LS1 T56.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No never had that issue with the skip shift but thank you for the picture the skip shift was disconnected and the speed sensor was disconnected and just hanging there.

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Thanks for the help I feel alot better knowing what I know now. Thanks Guys. Your help is greatly appreciated.

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Are you saying your skip-shift used to work, or that it never worked........ ???????
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It hasn't forced me into 4th gear so I'm not sure if it does or doesn't .... but I went out and bought the caps to cap off the syliniod and harness clip.

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Does the skip-shift light on the dash come on at any time? Does the SES light come on briefly when you first turn the key to "run? Did you install the cap on the skip-shift solenoid harness? If not, when you try to install it, you may find a resistor in it. If you have never experienced the skip-shift interference, and there is no resistor in the harness connector, someone has had the skip-shift feature programmed out of the PCM. Just so you understand why GM added an inconvenient feature like skip-shift, it was required to allow the car to meet fuel efficiency regulations. The Corvette came with the same feature.

None of this would explain the "off" and not smooth shifting. What do you mean by "off"? When in the shift does it not feel smooth? If the clutch is releasing correctly, and the throw out bearing is healthy, the trans should shift with no resistance, and very smoothly.

Did the work order indicate they replaced the transmission fluid? If so, what fluid did they use? The trans requires Dexron ATF (yes, the Tremec T56 requires auto trans fluid).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well the skip shift light does definitely come on but I have no problem from going 1st to 2nd and so on. The work order says they put Dex. III in the Transmission but I have yet to see this SES light. But when I went to connect speed sensor I have not seen any resistors on the harness near the skip shift connection clip.

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The SES light should come on with all the others for a few seconds, when you first turn the key to "run". Someone might have pulled the bulb out or cut the wire to get rid of the light.

Do you have access to an OBD-2 scanner? If the bulb is removed or the wire is cut, that will set a code. Might be interesting to see if the seller was covering up a few problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I do own one I'll hook it up and see what I get. I haven't had the chance to mess with the Trans Am for a couple days now.

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