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84 T/A 301T T5, 3.73s
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Didn't know GM had a V6 as small as a 2. what-ever. I do know there was a 4 "cylinder" option that year.
And you're worried about "resale"on a V6? I don't know about you, but if I'm driving something sporty, like a firebird, I just assume to have the performance from a V8. But once again, that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Your symptoms could possibly be caused by an EGR valve that is stuck open, but I'd want to test the valve before I condemn it. It looks like a vacuum operated valve based upon the pictures I found...if they are accurate.
It looks like you and I are thinking the same thing. The previous owner did tell me that it sat garaged most of its life not getting used for long periods of time. . She also told me that she liked to start the car and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes and I think she was trying to tell me something with that comment. I think she or her husband may have had the shut off issue and didnt want to tell me for some reason..
 

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84 T/A 301T T5, 3.73s
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I'm not understanding how a stuck EGR would cause an eng. that's running normally, to instantly shut down. How would that affect the electrical system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Didn't know GM had a V6 as small as a 2. what-ever. I do know there was a 4 "cylinder" option that year.
And you're worried about "resale"on a V6? I don't know about you, but if I'm driving something sporty, like a firebird, I just assume to have the performance from a V8. But once again, that's just me.
Well here is my car. I feel like it will be worth the effort to keep this specific firebird as original as possible. I can always buy a 500 firebird with no motor or transmission and go the V8 route but that is a long time from now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'm not understanding how a stuck EGR would cause an eng. that's running normally, to instantly shut down. How would that affect the electrical system?
I don’t know, I am not a mechanic but all three times I was pushing down pretty hard to get up with the acceleration and that’s timed perfectly with the shut off. It sounds like The air to fuel ratio inside of this valve is so far off that it causes the stall when I give it too much gas? Originally I was sure this was electrical and not I’m not so sure about that…Also all of the dash lights stay on, an my headlights stay on. I can literally coast, then pop it up into neutral and start it back up. Would a electronic issue make it kind of difficult for me to fire right back up ?
 

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84 T/A 301T T5, 3.73s
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Whoah! super nice. But I would still pull the motor for a V-8. You could always save it , (the V6 motor) if you actually think someone would pay more for it...in the future...if you ever decide to sell it.
But then again, there might be a few mods you could do to it, to make it more "spirited" on the road. And if you're not into performance driving, it'll be fine just like it is.
(My god, this is a popular thread., I can't get a post in, W/O being notified of another post! :)
(I guess this is just me and you writing)
 

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84 T/A 301T T5, 3.73s
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If you had a vacuum leak, (depending on how big a leak) your car would be idling like crap, or at least idling too high, but shouldn't cause the motor to shut down. If your power booster vacuum hose was off, (not saying it is) then the car wouldn't run. (that's considered a "big' leak)

The EGR is a creepo emissions device that pollutes your intake with exhaust, to "supposedly" make it run cleaner. It is usually operating, (when working correctly) under acceleration, but is shut during idling, and decell. If the diaphragm, or hose in your EGR was leaking, then it wouldn't pull open the valve, and it wouldn't pollute your eng. (but it would the air, theoretically). If that was a cause of a vacuum leak, it might idle higher. or crappier, but wouldn't cause the eng. to stall.
If your EGR "wasn't" leaking, but the valve was stuck open, then it would pollute your intake with exhaust, and maybe cause it to run crappy. But don't see it causing your motor to run fine, and then suddenly stall. Unless it's been going on so long, your plugs are fouled, and then your car would run like crap all the time.

But it's hard to diagnose a problem like yours, by just going by "writing" evidence. I would still wait for it to happen again, and check your fuel, and ign., as a starting point. If you just start randomly removing parts you "think" are the problem, you might as well save for that V8 swap, cause that's how much money you'll have invested. Good luck. OFN.
 

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1993 6-spd T/A - 1996 C4
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... I’m probably going to keep it all stock because I don’t want to mess up my re sale value too much.
No worries man. It's a classic, but it's not a "desirable" classic. It has little actual value on the market so drive the s*** out of it, enjoy it, and do whatever your heart desires to it. The current values for a base model (305 5-spd) is below, and value adjustments are as follows: -10% for 6-cyl. -20% for 4-cyl. -15% for auto. +10% for Recaro Pkg. +10% for T-tops. +5% for Aero Pkg.

3rd gens are coming up slowly in value overall as you can see, but buyers want the Trans Am, specifically the HO. The Trans Am's are worth double that of an S/E or Base model.

There is nothing wrong with what you have, but it just doesn't have the value one would think it should have. 3rd and 4th gens don't get much love, it's just the way it is. Don't feel bad though, as you can see, even the base model has done nothing but appreciate over the last 12+ years. 1984 Corvettes depreciated steadily from 2010 to 2018 and an '84 T/A is worth nearly double what an '84 Corvette is until you get to "Concourse" condition, then the 'vette is worth only $1k more. Imagine being the Corvette guy. Heck, imagine being a 4th generation ('84-'96) Corvette owner. ALL of them actually depreciated steadily from 2010-2018, while all Firebirds increased. The 4th generation Corvette is treated like the proverbial red headed step child within Corvette circles, and beyond. It's the least desirable of the breed. I still bought one 4 months ago, I paid too much for it, it's value will probably drop, and I'm not happy with it. My T/A is the superior vehicle overall. ...it is what it is, but knowing it's not a "desirable" vehicle, I have no worries about modifications or keeping it pristine, that's actually liberating. Knowing I can do whatever I want and it doesn't really matter.

Values jumped considerably in Jan 2022, this happened to almost all cars. There is question now as to what happens next. Values could continue up, level off, or fall back to Dec 2021 or below. Many factors contributed to the value increase we saw in Jan 2022. New car shortage, minimum wage increase, inflation... Who knows what the market does as these things sort themselves out, or how long that takes. Values do appear to be slowly trending back down on some makes/models though. I think Pontiac in general will be immune to that though, at least with the sports cars.

Best of luck tracking down the problem. Intermittent issues are the absolute worst and most frustrating. Stick with it, and you'll get it.



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DELCO NERD
1993 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, LT1 5.7L V8
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OP: I can see two vacuum lines (or one hose) that lead to nowhere in the picture of your EGR valve. Any idea what those are for?
 

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Did you fully address the issue of the battery and the connections? If all that rust is allowing the battery to move around it could cause the problem. If the shutdown occurs under similar conditions, e.g. making a turn in a specific direction, or accelerating, might be pointing to the battery moving and causing issues with that questionable wiring and terminals. I could be completely wrong, but seems worth the few minutes it would take to check it out. If you've already checked it out thoroughly, let us know.
 
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DELCO NERD
1993 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, LT1 5.7L V8
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OP: For clarity, the hoses I was asking about in an earlier post are circled in red:
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Did you fully address the issue of the battery and the connections? If all that rust is allowing the battery to move around it could cause the problem. If the shutdown occurs under similar conditions, e.g. making a turn in a specific direction, or accelerating, might be pointing to the battery moving and causing issues with that questionable wiring and terminals. I could be completely wrong, but seems worth the few minutes it would take to check it out. If you've already checked it out thoroughly, let us know.
Yea I did check out the battery several times and it does move a teensy bit. The battery tray is pretty rusty and it’s slightly dipping into a medium sized rust hole. You can’t tighten the nut on the battery holder any farther. But I suppose I could rig up some cords to help hold the battery in place better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Did you fully address the issue of the battery and the connections? If all that rust is allowing the battery to move around it could cause the problem. If the shutdown occurs under similar conditions, e.g. making a turn in a specific direction, or accelerating, might be pointing to the battery moving and causing issues with that questionable wiring and terminals. I could be completely wrong, but seems worth the few minutes it would take to check it out. If you've already checked it out thoroughly, let us know.
My plan is to actually fix up all of that rust in the engine bay, but I’ve been so distracted lately with my shut offs. when I bought the car I first thought there was no rust on the car but I clearly didn’t look close enough. I have a responsibility now to take care of that area so the next owner won’t have to. I’ve also kinda been focused on my smaller issues like my hood safety latch, interior plastic pieces need replaced, and my driver door needs a new pin and spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
No worries man. It's a classic, but it's not a "desirable" classic. It has little actual value on the market so drive the s*** out of it, enjoy it, and do whatever your heart desires to it. The current values for a base model (305 5-spd) is below, and value adjustments are as follows: -10% for 6-cyl. -20% for 4-cyl. -15% for auto. +10% for Recaro Pkg. +10% for T-tops. +5% for Aero Pkg.

3rd gens are coming up slowly in value overall as you can see, but buyers want the Trans Am, specifically the HO. The Trans Am's are worth double that of an S/E or Base model.

There is nothing wrong with what you have, but it just doesn't have the value one would think it should have. 3rd and 4th gens don't get much love, it's just the way it is. Don't feel bad though, as you can see, even the base model has done nothing but appreciate over the last 12+ years. 1984 Corvettes depreciated steadily from 2010 to 2018 and an '84 T/A is worth nearly double what an '84 Corvette is until you get to "Concourse" condition, then the 'vette is worth only $1k more. Imagine being the Corvette guy. Heck, imagine being a 4th generation ('84-'96) Corvette owner. ALL of them actually depreciated steadily from 2010-2018, while all Firebirds increased. The 4th generation Corvette is treated like the proverbial red headed step child within Corvette circles, and beyond. It's the least desirable of the breed. I still bought one 4 months ago, I paid too much for it, it's value will probably drop, and I'm not happy with it. My T/A is the superior vehicle overall. ...it is what it is, but knowing it's not a "desirable" vehicle, I have no worries about modifications or keeping it pristine, that's actually liberating. Knowing I can do whatever I want and it doesn't really matter.

Values jumped considerably in Jan 2022, this happened to almost all cars. There is question now as to what happens next. Values could continue up, level off, or fall back to Dec 2021 or below. Many factors contributed to the value increase we saw in Jan 2022. New car shortage, minimum wage increase, inflation... Who knows what the market does as these things sort themselves out, or how long that takes. Values do appear to be slowly trending back down on some makes/models though. I think Pontiac in general will be immune to that though, at least with the sports cars.

Best of luck tracking down the problem. Intermittent issues are the absolute worst and most frustrating. Stick with it, and you'll get it.



Thank you, I’m very appreciative of every bit of help and communication I can get from anybody here on firebird nation. I try very hard to be descriptive of my problems and give as much detail as possible but I am only human. I try to be responsive and social; but sometimes I struggle with being too exhausted from work , having anxiety issues and having depression makes my life even more difficult. Sometimes I go days with out answers a question and then sometimes I am on fire and I am active and sociable . And that has payed off for me, I’m making great progress on my bird. I’m grateful for everyone sticking with me here on firebird nation . It rained all day after my Friday shift so I haven’t gotten that egr out yet but I’m hopeful for good weather for sat.
 

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I guess I'm not being clear. I'm not asking if you fixed the rust. Just want to know if you followed through with what was discussed in post #9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I guess I'm not being clear. I'm not asking if you fixed the rust. Just want to know if you followed through with what was discussed in post #9.
I’m sorry for the confusion. Yes I did take the battery cables off and I used a wire brush to clean off the little rust that was on the bolt ends but I didn’t find any white or yellow build up of any kind. The battery itself does Rock back and forth so I’ll have to strap it down better. But today my sister and I successfully took off the egr valve; it was kinda fun to be honest with you but yeah the egr valve is shot..
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thank you. I’ll crack that open this weekend to see if it’s gunked up inside…this being blocked up partially could be why I have 2 idle modes, why the acceleration is really slow, and why I smell fuel very richly once I shut the car off! Thank you joe! Thank you 1993TransAm!
Back with my final update (I hope! : ) here is the egr valve..
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