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Camshaft - Time to replace or okay for now?

491 Views 22 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  96WhiteTransAm
Had a noisy lifter. Pulled the intake manifold and lifter that was making the noise. Definite flat spot on the roller. Took a video while my brother rotated the cam. There's wear for sure, but how bad is it? Ideally it should be replaced, but after spending a lot of cash on a new cat, solenoids, new lifters, smog and a few year's worth of registration fees, money is pretty tight now. For those who are way more familiar with camshafts than I am, how does it look? Would I be okay putting it back together with new lifters or is this cam shot? Thanks

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If a fingernail can catch a grove, it’s likely done.
Fingernail is barely catching right at the edges I've circled. I believe that's at the tip of the nose, It's smooth everywhere else. It looks like pitting down the center in some spots, but it's smooth to the touch. This is my daily driver now, so it being down a week while I wait for a camshaft to be shipped would not be ideal. Of course, catastrophic engine failure wouldn't be ideal, either. 😂


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Melling MC1336 camshaft ordered up. Pulling the pushrods and roller rocker arms in preparation for the new cam. Obviously a lot more will need to be removed before install, but that cam likely won't be here 'til Thursday at the earliest, so got some time.

Noticed some of the PR ball ends are a bit beat up. Also some of the roller rockers where the PRs meet have signs of wear. Not sure if it's normal wear and tear on the rockers or if they need to be replaced. PRs will be replaced regardless. 190K miles on this car, but I'm not sure when the roller rockers got put in since I bought it used. Pictures forthcoming.

Also looking to replace the timing chain, because why not, but should the sprockets be done as well?
Shoebox has an excellent cam change guide:



How are the lifters?

Good LT1 reference:

Lifters are being replaced. That was the original plan, to just do the lifters until the damage on the cam was found; new lifters arrived today. We were floating the idea of just replacing the one lifter on the questionable groove spot and hoped it would be okay for the next few months, but decided against it. Tearing the intake manifold off and scraping all the rtv off isn't the funnest job in the world, not to mention running the risk of further engine damage.

The pictures on the previous post were the worst examples on the rods and roller rockers. Any concern there?

I was looking at those shbox cam guides yesterday and earlier today. Would rather be doing the job on the lift at work but the garage floor at home is gonna have to do, haha. I also have the official '96 Firebird service manual, so between those two resources we should be in good shape. Wish I could say the same for my bank account. eek!
Anyone know if the Melling MC1336 camshaft I ordered will require a break-in procedure? From what I gather, it's OEM replacement, but google searching has produced little results about breaking it in. Assembly lube will be applied when installing, but beyond that I'm not sure.
Progress. Rad fans and rad out of the way. air pump and water pump removed. New pushrods on the way. They're Melling MPR-615 standard replacements.

The rocker arms on here put on by the previous owner are Comp Cams full rockers, 1.6 ratio. Thinking about going with a full set since a few of these are showing wear on the spot where the arms meet the PRs. All the Jegs and Summit Racing recs do not show full RRs when I put in my engine into the search parameters, just rockers with the roller tips. I'm not even sure if the previous owner replaced the springs. 190k miles though, and I know I put 115k of those miles on it myself, so replace the springs regardless?

Any budget-friendly recommendations on the rockers / valve springs? I like the idea of 1.6 ratio full roller rockers on an OEM replacement cam. New valve lifters are US made LS7's out of the same factory the AC Delcos are made out of. Thanks

EDIT: Forget the springs. I just talked to my brother and removing those is more than we're capable of in the garage at my house.

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Rocker arm ratio can affect push rod length. Might want to pick up a pushrod length checker to optimize roller contact pattern on valve stem.

There are full roller rockers out there. They just have to be “narrow body” small block Chevy to fit under the center bolt valve covers. I used Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Magnums:


Those are for 7/16” studs. They also make them for stock 3/8” studs. And they are non-self aligning, so you need guide plates.
Break in procedure - roller lifters:


You might want to check Melling to see if they have a recommendation.
Progress. Rad fans and rad out of the way. air pump and water pump removed. New pushrods on the way. The rocker arms on here put on by the previous owner are Comp Cams full rockers, 1.6 ratio. Thinking about going with a full set since a few of these are showing wear on the spot where the arms meet the PRs. All the Jegs and Summit Tacing recs do not show full RRs when I put in my engine into the search parameters. I'm not even sure if .the previous owner replaced the springs. 190k miles though, and I know I put 115k of those miles on it myself, so replace the springs regardless?
Rocker arm ratio can affect push rod length. Might want to pick up a pushrod length checker to optimize roller contact pattern on valve stem.

There are full roller rockers out there. They just have to be “narrow body” small block Chevy to fit under the center bolt valve covers. I used Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Magnums:


Those are for 7/16” studs. They also make them for stock 3/8” studs. And they are non-self aligning, so you need guide plates.
I think the previous owner slapped in Comp Cams 1302's, or something very close. They're def 1.6 Comp Cams, and the 1302's look identical, right down to the CC stamp, except the bottom of the body where the roller tip is comes to a point, where the 1302's seem to be rounded off in the pics I've found online. I don't know if the design was modified slightly at one point or if I'm off on the part number.

As far as the pushrod length, the stock 7.2" have been fine for the 115K+ miles I've driven it until the noisy lifter issue arose, so I don't see that as suddenly becoming an issue if I go with the same/similar setup. LS7's are supposedly the OEM replacement for stock now, and these aren't the Chinese knock-off LS7's. For sure I'm looking to replace these CC rockers with the newer equivalent model if I can't find old stock on the ones already in the car. Thanks!

Could be wrong but I thought I saw guide plates were already in there? I'll double-check.

BTW, saw you sold your '94 mean green machine. Watched the videos. That thing could smoke some tires like mine never could, haha!

Pic of the CC roller rockers previously installed:

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Break in procedure - roller lifters:


You might want to check Melling to see if they have a recommendation.
It's a hydraulic cam and not flat-tappet, so far as I understand, but I've read those can also benefit from a break-in procedure. I didn't find any info for the specific cam I ordered on Melling's site outside general specs, but maybe I was looking in the wrong spot? I guess I'll find out if it comes with break-in procedure instructions when it arrives on Friday. Hoping to get my baby back on the road by Saturday afternoon at the latest. Already have a lot of info printed out and ready in-hand when re-installing so no dicking around with finding that info as things are getting put back together.
One more thing - ordered the Fel-Pro gasket kit that comes with grey rtv silicone. I last did my intake manifold back '17, I think? I used that and no issues since, but the car has also been parked for 3 years. Shbox site recommends the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV on the removal page, but it's not mentioned on the install page. I'm assuming it's for the bead you lay down on the front and back of the manifold... is that still the gold standard?
Rocker arm ratio can affect push rod length. Might want to pick up a pushrod length checker to optimize roller contact pattern on valve stem.

There are full roller rockers out there. They just have to be “narrow body” small block Chevy to fit under the center bolt valve covers. I used Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Magnums:


Those are for 7/16” studs. They also make them for stock 3/8” studs. And they are non-self aligning, so you need guide plates.
I'd love the Pro Mags but a little out of my price range after spending so much on everything else. Looking at the CC 17002-16's high energy aluminums. Good choice for a daily driver, or those aren't narrow body and won't fit... Also, double-checked and the previous owner did not install guide plates so I'll have to get those ordered up and installed if I'm going NSA.
The CC 17002 appears to be limited to the Gen 1 SBC, 1986 and earlier.
Going with NSA rockers, so got the Trickflow TFS-30400624-8 guideplates and some Summit Racing 7/16" studs to go with those. I'm still trying to decide on the RRs. I see the Elgin stainless steel series on Amazon for under $200, but from everything I've gathered these are made in China and the same design as others like Speedmaster, PRW and even Jegs. That spooks me a bit.

Decided against springs for now. Those can be replaced a few months down the road.
Got the new camshaft in today. Methodically putting things back together and noticed some wear patterns on the water pump drive shaft. You can see it visually and feel the wear with a finger. I have a new seal, but will this wear cause leaking issues regardless, or is this normal wear? I'm seeing GM part # 10219554, but google results show a lot of used ones on ebay for sale with the same wear pattern. Trying to find new or aftermarket in case I need to replace it.

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P.S. Went with the Comp Camd 1605 pro mag+ rocker arms.
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