Firebird Nation banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, new here, searched but couldn't find an answer.

Changing my master cylinder and the gap between the booster pin and master is too large, my pin is a solid pin with no adjustment. Couldn't find an adjustable one after a quick search, any suggestions?

Much appreciated

Mike
 

· Administrator
'93 6-spd Trans Am - '96 C4
Joined
·
3,293 Posts
Only Aftermarket stuff like those from Bear and Wilwood are truly (or should I say intended to be) adjustable. All the "OEM booster pushrods" come pre-set from the factory/remanufacturer. ...at least that's what I was told when I had this issue with my Corvette. What they told me: You probably have the wrong Booster or Master.

Are you sure it's not adjustable? I had to pull the pushrod out of the booster a bit to be able to see that the tip of the rod was actually a nut. Unable to locate a pushrod measuring tool locally, and unwilling to wait, I turned it out 4 or 6 turns and went from a brake pedal that engaged less than 1" off the floor to a pedal that engages at the top of the stroke. A little bit goes a long way on this adjustment

When I got my 'vette, previous owner stated "the brakes are a little soft, I think I was sent the wrong master or I need to buy longer pushrods.". It didn't take me long to figure out that the booster pushrod measuring tool wasn't available locally because OEM and OEM replacement boosters come "pre-adjusted". ...that said, mine had an adjustment. They come pre-adjusted from the factory after all. wink-wink

Really don't know what to say other than what I was told, and that's "these are not adjustable", but, that was 100% BS in my case. Pull the rod out of the booster a little if you haven't and inspect the tip. Hopefully, the rounded end of the bind-nut is throwing you off. I did me for a minute. Also, careful with the "Shade Tree Mechanic" fix on this one. There's only a few thousandths tolerance allowed between the rod and cylinder. Not enough, pedal engagement is grossly affected. Three thousandths too much and the brakes will drag when the system heats up. We really should have the measuring tool to set the booster pushrod properly. All the performance brake companies, Summit Racing / Jegs, sells them. Price goes from $20 to $80. I personally wouldn't buy from Amazon, but, this is one of those things that's probably safe assuming the seller isn't a scammer. Buyer Beware as they say. I think the Summit or Jegs tool is around the price of this Amazon one, and I'd recommend purchasing from them instead.


Good Luck!

Edit: Just remembered... When searching for this tool, I came across an image at a sellers website that included enough dimensions to build your own. If you're interested, I saved it and should be able to dig it up without too much effort; or you can search around for the same image. I went the shade tree mechanic route. Figured I'd turn it out a little and see how it affected the pedal. After just a couple turns, the pedal engaged where my brain thought it should engage. To be honest, I should probably back it off 1 turn. The tool is important. At the very least, it eliminates all guessing. If you go this route, check for dragging brakes after the test ride and everything is hot.
 

· Administrator
'93 6-spd Trans Am - '96 C4
Joined
·
3,293 Posts
I think you've got to halve that and then some to be in spec. I don't remember exactly, but I think a 0.020" gap is where you need to be. You're certainly a helluvalot closer though.

How's the pedal travel feel?

The "lever" is strong in this system. Like I said, with mine, just a few turns on a high thread-per-inch rod made about a 4" difference in pedal engagement/travel. I only moved the pushrod out somewhere between 0.06 and 0.125. I wasn't expecting to feel much difference in the pedal, so I was completely shocked that it went from engaging 1" from the floor to the top 1/2" or so.

I guess if you can't get the pedal to the floor and there's enough pedal travel to be comfortable with, no biggie. My brain couldn't do it though. I'm the type who sees where they want to stop and presses the brake pedal one time to a specific point and stops where they intended. Only if there is something unexpected do I need to apply more pressure. I struggled stopping for a few months with the short pedal before I finally broke down and adjusted it myself. Before adjustment, I couldn't stop at any selected point unless by luck. After adjustment, I was immediately stopping exactly where I wanted to without even thinking about it. Back to "second-nature" so to speak. Confidence restored.

...there was a time or two I over-ran where I wanted to stop and the pedal was to the floor. Thankfully, I follow the 2-second rule which I increased to 3 or 4 and that bought me the space I needed; but there were a couple uncomfortable moments for sure.

Be sure to try a couple E-stops from speed in a long parking lot. That extra 35 thousandths will leave a considerable percentage of your maximum braking force on the table without a doubt. You might not notice it driving sensibly, but sooner or later you're going to realize "it's not all there". Hopefully not as you're repeatedly thinking or screaming "*! *! *! *!" in a panic.

If there isn't an adjustment as you say, maybe what the guys at the retail parts stores told me applies here: One of the parts is wrong for the application.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top