Funny you mention the improved fuel mileage Steve, because that was one of the first things I noticed too when I made the switch.I have been running amsoil in the daily driver a 96 pontiac grand prix and It really improved the gas mileage in it. Don't know about the GTA because it still runs like crap until I get the egr valve changed by my friend. I won't probably be driving the GTA until next year. On sat oct 17th it will go into storage. I won't being getting the car out until april 10 2010. I was running Valovine Durablend in the grand prix. I'm impressed with the Amsoil. The car gets better mileage and better performance as well.
Yes, you can use it on your LS1, and no, it doesn't eat away at any tubing. I am using it in my Durango, which now has 105,000 + miles on it. Does your engine currently have any oil leaking problems? If not, then your good to go. Just shoot me a PM if you want a quote.is this safe in my LS1 that has never had synthetic in it....and has like 100k-120k miles on it? I heard somewhere that it can eat away at the tubing or something..
Lemme know bob...I may hit u up
Brandon if you don't have any major leaks do it for sure and the sooner the better for your engine.is this safe in my LS1 that has never had synthetic in it....and has like 100k-120k miles on it? I heard somewhere that it can eat away at the tubing or something..
Lemme know bob...I may hit u up
Oil has a life cycle too and should be changed out at the recommended manufacturers intervals. An oil can only last as long as it's additives last. For example, TBN (total Base Number) is the amount of additive left in an oil sample and is measured during oil analysis. If this TBN gets too low, then your oil will not be able to protect your internal engine components. Some of these additives are anti-wear additives, corrosion resistance additives, oxidation resistance additives, anti-foaming additives, viscosity modifiers, dispersant, and detergents. Oils have to do a lot more than just lubricate an engine, they have to control things such as foaming and sludge, and they have to have the ability to flow in extremely cold temperatures (pour point) and not break down in extremely high temperatures (thermal breakdown). None of these things have anything to do with the filter. Don't get me wrong, having a good filter is very important, but it's only half of the equation.Great info Bob, I read an artical a long time ago on oil filters being the main cause of oil changes. You should change your oil every 3k because the filter can no longer do its job even when the cheapest oil can still go another 2k. So now I buy Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil at Walmart for $22.00 for 5qrts and I never change my oil any more, I only change the filter evey 3k and top off with oil. I did this to my new Ford f150 until i totaled it 105k later. When I went to the boneyard the next day to get my stuff out of the truck I noticed that valvecover from the Ford 300cid 6 banger was ripped open exposing a factory clean head and valvetrain. I was so impressed with what I saw that I've been doing filter changes this way ever sence.
I don't know if this is wrong or wright but I do know what I saw that day. One spottless motor.
I read great things about Amsoil and would use it if it was as cheap as Mobile1..
Anecdotal, but I personally think you were lucky that you didn't run into any major engine problems, no matter what brand of oil you were running.I was told the same thing by other people after I read that artical but did it anyway.....The engine ran great right up to the end...I wish I could have pulled a couple of main caps just to see how the bearings were. The engine ran great right up to the end!