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I just found out that the PO of this car routed one of the A/C compressor lines under the hood hinge. Of course it's the line with the compressor switch.

My questions:

1. Can the switch be replaced without draining the refrigerant? (Does it have some type of Schroeder valve)?

2. (From the pictures) Can this pipe be pushed/bent to re-route to the other side of the compressor hose?

3. (From the pictures) It looks like the connector is in bad shape. Anyone have any good resources for a non-crushed-by-the-hood-hinge connector?

Thanks!!

See the pictures.
 

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Yeah, I believe that switch is supposed to go on the inside of that big line. You do run the risk of making a hole in the line when you bend it, but I believe I would go for it if it was mine. I'm 95% sure there is a schrader valve there. Be careful not to kink it at that 90 if you choose to go for it.

Some pics I looked at had the small line going over the big line, most had it going under. Kinda hard to see behind the dryer to see what kind of movement is available.
 

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No, that particular switch has no valve like the one on the drier so replacing the switch will also lose your gas.
You can carefully twist it to the other side. Look at some restored cars and copy where they have it sitting and the bends, it shouldn't be under the hinge.
Be careful with the terminal tabs on the switch, they break off easily and then you're stuffed and it's a very hard switch to find spares for.
Hard to tell from pic but could already be broken and therefore not working.
 

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Here's what the liquid line looks like with the switch port, straight threaded on.

AC%20liquid%20line%20with%20switch%20por

AC%20liquid%20line%20switch%20port%20_zp

And yes, you'll need to replace that switch anyway, it's busted off and likely from the hinge hitting it. Thank previous owner Bubba when you can't find any.

Ok the old number was GM #339848 , but the new number that may work is #370117 .

You'll need to retrieve the broken terminal from your plug obviously.
 

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That is a high-side low pressure switch. You can bypass it on the harness to get the a/c running. For some reason it was eliminated from the systems on 2nd gen cars in mid 1978.
 

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The later switches did both, cut off at low or high pressure. I did this a few days ago, spent a while chasing faults when my ac clutch wasn't kicking in. Turns out system had leaked and so switch triggered.
If the rest is intact you can make a small jumper wire with spade terminals on each end and hook up both sides of plug, as mentioned above.
 
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