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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im having a problem with my firebird, this morning i got up to go the store and the bird stated right up and was idling perfectly, then when i back up out of my driveway it started to sputter like it was going to die out, i went around the block and it doesnt really seem to miss fire over 3000 rpm but i do notice that the car doesnt have all of its power. if anybody could help me out that would be great. thank you :)

i forgot to add one more thing. when i tried staring it back up after my ride around the block my fans kicked in even though the car isnt even at operating temperature, when i go through the gears like reverse and drive the car sputters and then after like 2 seconds it goes back to normal /:
 

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Fans kicking on without engine being over temp is often a sign that a diagnostic code has set. Is the "SES" light on? Have you scanned it for codes?
 

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p0113 - Inlet Air Temp circuit high voltage

p0118 - Engine Coolant Temp circuit high voltage

p0141 - Heated O2 sensor Bank 1 / Sensor 2 static reading for excessive period

p0155 - Heated O2 sensor Bank 2 / Sensor 1 static reading for excessive period

p0300 - Engine misfire detected

p0441 - Evaporative Purge System no flow during purge

p1115 - Engine Coolant Temp sensor intermittent high voltage

p1635 - 5 Volt Reference (A) circuit

p0303 - Misfire on cylinder 3

The 5 Volt reference code stands out,. There is a common ground for the IAT and ECT sensors. That same ground completes the circuit for the A/C Pressure, TPS and MAP sensors, which do receive the 5V reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i think half of the codes that popped up are because i cross wired with other stuff on my etc sensor. when i was driving it yesterday when i put the gas all the way down cruising about 25mph there would be a pretty loud pop coming from the engine bay.. is that a spark plug arching or what
 

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A plug/wire arcing would be a loud click. A "pop" from under the hood is most likely the engine backfiring through the intake manifold. That could be the result of a cross-fire (arcing) in the plug wires.

Clear the codes by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse for 30 seconds. See which codes come back after a short drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found out what it was it was the 3rd sparkplug wire.. It had a crack in it and it was arching or something to the other ones.. I fixed it with some electrical tape until I get enough money to get some new wires.. Thank you to everyone that replied :)
 

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Electrical tape is not a reliable insulator for 20,000 volts. That's what it takes to fire a spark plug under heavy engine load.
 
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I have been having the same problem. Mine threw an evap leak/solenoid code. So far I have gone over pretty much all of the evap system and have replaced most of it. I drove my car to Dallas and back (250mi) and the problem is MUCH worse now. Do you think it is still the wires or does this sound like more of an evap problem still? (plan on checking wires and plugs tomorrow morning).
 

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What was the specific numerical code?
 
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