[roorancher]

As indicated in the title, I'd like to switch from a Fixed Mast Antenna to a Power Antenna on my 94 TA, only because I keep the car covered, and I'm tired of taking the antenna mast off and on when I install the cover.

I know it was an option on these cars, and I can and would like to do the retrofit, but only if the electrical harness is stowed back there somewhere. I would think that GM was smart enough not to have a multitude of different harnesses, but who knows!
I took a quick glance in the trunk this morning on my way to work, but all I saw was the antenna cable inside a plastic "split loom." Can anyone tell me for sure or verify that the harness is there?

Thoughts and ideas welcome.

TIA.

 

[scfbody]

My Camaro has a non-power antenna and there isn't a harness back there for adding an electric antenna. I replaced the power antenna on my wife's car and the new antennas don't hold up too well, if it has any issues I'm going to a fixed antenna.

 

[ZumpTA]

I'll check in my trunk when the Sun comes up, it's been a good 15 years since I've looked back there. I believe scfbody is correct though as I can not recall any wiring beyond the antennas coax back there. Maybe the newer models with the Monsoon system that locates the amplifier in that area does have the power antenna wiring regardless of if one came in the car or not. Without that amplifier being back there though, no reason to run an expensive harness to the area as no wiring beyond the coax is required...

Then again, I don't think the "separately" amplified system was an option for my '93, I do not know when that began. I do have the full "10 speaker" system, but no factory amplifier in the trunk. My OEM head unit had fairly beefy heatsinks though.

Regardless, it's not a big deal. All you need to do is run one wire connected to a +12v switched source to the antenna. It's really trivial to do this. It only takes a Phillips Screwdriver to remove the Sill Plate and 15 to 20' of wire to accomplish. You don't even have to cut, splice, or solder anything beyond the connection at the antenna which could just use a crimped bullet-connector. You can connect the antenna's power wire to the spare accessory fuse location in the fuse box using a product such as this FUSE TAP. Alternatively, you can use the Fuse Tap in place of the Radio fuse; or just pull the Radio fuse, fold the wire over the blade (vertically) and reinsert. When the key is switched to RUN, these two fuses get powered. When the key is OFF, power is removed. Antenna will now operate with key, not Radio.

Otherwise, download your Factory Service Manual from the link below and look over the wiring diagrams. A power antenna feed might exist on the Radio but not be pinned with a wire in the harness connector. If this is the case, you can add the wire to the back of the radio's connector, or better yet since you likely don't have the proper crimping tool and "connector pin", walk into a local shop that does automotive wiring (or maybe some other type) and have them crimp the proper pin for the stereo harness connector onto the wire for you. I've found guys normally don't charge for something like this, but I always put $10-$20 into their hand as gratitude and say "Thank you so much, have a couple on me.".

I'll know something definite for you in about 3 to 4 hours.

There is another option that might be a workable compromise. One of those 6" tall flexible "rubber ducky" antennas. You're not going to pick up any stations across the state on the odd night like the factory mast might, but their reception is fine otherwise.

Really wished they put the antenna in the windshield like the 2nd gens had. Those cars look so nice without an aerial breaking up the lines.

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

 

[roorancher]

I'll check in my trunk when the Sun comes up, it's been a good 15 years since I've looked back there. I believe scfbody is correct though as I can not recall any wiring beyond the antennas coax back there. Maybe the newer models with the Monsoon system that locates the amplifier in that area does have the power antenna wiring regardless of if one came in the car or not. Without that amplifier being back there though, no reason to run an expensive harness to the area as no wiring beyond the coax is required...

Then again, I don't think the "separately" amplified system was an option for my '93, I do not know when that began. I do have the full "10 speaker" system, but no factory amplifier in the trunk. My OEM head unit had fairly beefy heatsinks though.

Regardless, it's not a big deal. All you need to do is run one wire connected to a +12v switched source to the antenna. It's really trivial to do this. It only takes a Phillips Screwdriver to remove the Sill Plate and 15 to 20' of wire to accomplish. You don't even have to cut, splice, or solder anything beyond the connection at the antenna which could just use a crimped bullet-connector. You can connect the antenna's power wire to the spare accessory fuse location in the fuse box using a product such as this FUSE TAP. Alternatively, you can use the Fuse Tap in place of the Radio fuse; or just pull the Radio fuse, fold the wire over the blade (vertically) and reinsert. When the key is switched to RUN, these two fuses get powered. When the key is OFF, power is removed. Antenna will now operate with key, not Radio.

Otherwise, download your Factory Service Manual from the link below and look over the wiring diagrams. A power antenna feed might exist on the Radio but not be pinned with a wire in the harness connector. If this is the case, you can add the wire to the back of the radio's connector, or better yet since you likely don't have the proper crimping tool and "connector pin", walk into a local shop that does automotive wiring (or maybe some other type) and have them crimp the proper pin for the stereo harness connector onto the wire for you. I've found guys normally don't charge for something like this, but I always put $10-$20 into their hand as gratitude and say "Thank you so much, have a couple on me.".

I'll know something definite for you in about 3 to 4 hours.

There is another option that might be a workable compromise. One of those 6" tall flexible "rubber ducky" antennas. You're not going to pick up any stations across the state on the odd night like the factory mast might, but their reception is fine otherwise.

Really wished they put the antenna in the windshield like the 2nd gens had. Those cars look so nice without an aerial breaking up the lines.

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

Thanks! I'll await your findings..,

 

[ZumpTA]

OK, it's confirmed. Nothing but the coax back there as suspected. I even separated the wire loom to make sure.

As I said, it's no biggie. Just use a Fuse Tap to get power for the antenna from either the radio or accessory fuses. The fuse tap, about 20' of 14 or 16 GA wire, and a Philips screwdriver will get the job done. The kick panel, sill plate, and sail panel need removed to properly run the wire to the back. Very easy to accomplish. Lowes, Home Depot, ACE or just about any other hardware store sells wire by the foot. Lowes has what you need for $0.30 a foot, so between the tap and wire, you're looking at less than $20 additional cost to install the antenna.

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/p/bussmann-atm-fuse-tap/32416_0_0

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-14-AWG-Stranded-Black-Copper-THHN-Wire-By-the-Foot/3129519

Not that it matters, but try to get a Blue wire for the antennas power. That is the industry standard "aftermarket" wire color for power antenna and remote amplifier "turn on" wires. Black of course is always a ground, so black might be confusing to you years from now or to a future owner who has no idea what's going on back there. If not blue, then red or yellow which is also used both by the factory and aftermarket as a "hot" wire. Black works of course, but it's just not good practice, we use color to inform us what is what. ...you know?

Good luck! I think you'll find it rather cheap and easy to retrofit the power antenna. The hardest part will be running the wire under the dash from the drivers to passenger side and that's super easy.

 

[scfbody]

Thanks! I'll await your findings..,

This antenna is short and flexible, also doesn't hurt reception as much as most shorty antennas. For some reason 1993-94 Firebirds have different threads than other GM vehicles, make sure your car has M6x1.0 thread or you will have to replace the base for a new mast to work. If you still have the original antenna than the mast may not work.
6.75" rubber antenna

 

[roorancher]

OK, it's confirmed. Nothing but the coax back there as suspected. I even separated the wire loom to make sure.

As I said, it's no biggie. Just use a Fuse Tap to get power for the antenna from either the radio or accessory fuses. The fuse tap, about 20' of 14 or 16 GA wire, and a Philips screwdriver will get the job done. The kick panel, sill plate, and sail panel need removed to properly run the wire to the back. Very easy to accomplish. Lowes, Home Depot, ACE or just about any other hardware store sells wire by the foot. Lowes has what you need for $0.30 a foot, so between the tap and wire, you're looking at less than $20 additional cost to install the antenna.

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/p/bussmann-atm-fuse-tap/32416_0_0

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-14-AWG-Stranded-Black-Copper-THHN-Wire-By-the-Foot/3129519

Not that it matters, but try to get a Blue wire for the antennas power. That is the industry standard "aftermarket" wire color for power antenna and remote amplifier "turn on" wires. Black of course is always a ground, so black might be confusing to you years from now or to a future owner who has no idea what's going on back there. If not blue, then red or yellow which is also used both by the factory and aftermarket as a "hot" wire. Black works of course, but it's just not good practice, we use color to inform us what is what. ...you know?

Good luck! I think you'll find it rather cheap and easy to retrofit the power antenna. The hardest part will be running the wire under the dash from the drivers to passenger side and that's super easy.

Zump,

Thanks.....the help and access to your files is much appreciated.....and just FYI, your in-depth, thorough instructions are also much appreciated and helpful.... I'm actually pretty good at all this. I've been working on vehicles doing stuff like this, (and much more complex electrical modifications,) since I'm 17, and I'm about to be 69. I was an aircraft mechanic and Staff Engineer for many large aircraft modification companies in a former life. I'm well aware of black, blue, yellow, etc..... basic color coding. I have a very large cache of wire, crimping tools, crimp contacts taps, etc. You can be sure that when I run the wires they will be properly protected, routed, looped, connected and stowed.

Someone else on another forum mentioned I need a third wire to the antenna, (besides the constant power and the ground, of course,) which is the "trigger" to raise and lower the antenna when the radio is turned off and on. The pink wire was mentioned, which I see is Pin #8 in the connector according to the diagram. In one diagram it's "radio signal on," and another it's power to the Amp, which I do not have. Do you concur? Makes sense to me.

Thanks again!

Jeff

 

[roorancher]

This antenna is short and flexible, also doesn't hurt reception as much as most shorty antennas. For some reason 1993-94 Firebirds have different threads than other GM vehicles, make sure your car has M6x1.0 thread or you will have to replace the base for a new mast to work. If you still have the original antenna than the mast may not work.
6.75" rubber antenna

Appreciate the link David......but I cannot do that....not my style. LOL!!!

 

[Injuneer]

I'm not sure if a power antenna was available in 93-95. The option is "U75" and is not shown in my Firebird catalog references until 1996. The 1994 manual includes U75 in the Section 1 list of RPO codes, but I could not find a wiring diagram in 8A-150 radio section. The first factory service manual (FSM) that shows a power antenna it 1995.

In the 1995 FSM the power antenna is covered in 8A-151. 1994 does not have an 8A-151 section.

Looking at 8A-151 in the 1995 manual, it appears that only radios RPO UW2 (coupe - speaker system 10, quad front door mounted, dual rear sail panel, amplifier) and UW6 (convertible - premium 6 speaker system) have the control interface for the power antenna.

Page 8A-151-0 shows that the power antenna requires 3 wires, in addition to the coaxial cable - black ground from chassis ground G200, a pink wire from the radio's "system power control" pin, and an orange wire from "radio accy fuse 4" in the instrument panel fuse block.

 

[scfbody]

Appreciate the link David......but I cannot do that....not my style. LOL!!!

I'm using this one, with a black TA you can't see it thanks to the spoiler. Radio reception isn't great, but I don't listen to the radio so doesn't bother me.
1995-2002 Camaro/Firebird 4 in. Billet Antenna Mast

 

[roorancher]

I'm not sure if a power antenna was available in 93-95. The option is "U75" and is not shown in my Firebird catalog references until 1996. The 1994 manual includes U75 in the Section 1 list of RPO codes, but I could not find a wiring diagram in 8A-150 radio section. The first factory service manual (FSM) that shows a power antenna it 1995.

In the 1995 FSM the power antenna is covered in 8A-151. 1994 does not have an 8A-151 section.

Looking at 8A-151 in the 1995 manual, it appears that only radios RPO UW2 (coupe - speaker system 10, quad front door mounted, dual rear sail panel, amplifier) and UW6 (convertible - premium 6 speaker system) have the control interface for the power antenna.

Page 8A-151-0 shows that the power antenna requires 3 wires, in addition to the coaxial cable - black ground from chassis ground G200, a pink wire from the radio's "system power control" pin, and an orange wire from "radio accy fuse 4" in the instrument panel fuse block.

Thanks for your thorough research, Fred!

I do have a 94 convertible.....with UW6.
I'm assuming what I said in the previous post....that the pink wire is Pin #8 in the connector, and I guess I'll pin it.

Jeff

 

[ZumpTA]

yeah, my bad. I forgot about the constant voltage wire that allows the mast to retract when the switched wire loses power. You'll have to run that too. "radio signal on" and "amplifier on" are the same things more or less. If there's only one wire, it's both. It's just a +12v wire switched with the power button of the radio.

I'm obviously not power antenna equipped, so I don't know exactly how the OEM system operates.

On a large percentage of aftermarket and other OEM manufactures systems I've dealt with the "remote on / radio signal on" wire is singular and powered full time when the head unit is powered on. With others, normally high-end units and systems, there are two "remote on/signal" wires; one is specifically for the power antenna and is only powered when the radio (AM/FM) is on. If you switched to Tape, CD, AUX, etc the antenna went down while the 2nd "remote on" wire maintained voltage so the amplifier(s) remained powered. On rare occasion, I've seen two separate "remote on" wires but both were powered full time regardless of source. Never understood that.

This wire can be called a lot of things. Remote On is most common in the aftermarket as it's simply a wire to power up "remote" accessories like power antennas and amplifiers. We only really care about these when replacing the factory unit with something else, usually aftermarket, so it's the term most will use. It can be called a signal, or trigger too. There's probably other words that are different but accurate and acceptable.

It's the same thing (function) as the low voltage/amperage wire on a Relay or starter solenoid. I guess what Industry you work in determines what you call it, but the function is the same.

I'd assume since the manual isn't calling out the antenna specifically and just referencing it as a signal wire in general, it's constantly powered when the head unit is on regardless of selected source. The factory power antenna might simply plug in to the factory amplifier and the switched wire for the antenna is jumpered internally. Or maybe the harness connector back there was jumpered between the amplifier and antenna? I honestly don't know how they did it at the factory, but one wire to the rear that's then split out (jumpered) would be more cost effective, so I'd go with that personally. A penny saved is a million dollars to the engineers.

I guess while I'm forgetting about wires, I shouldn't forget to mention you'll find a good ground point back at the tail lights, just pull the rear wall carpet forward to access it.

 

[roorancher]

yeah, my bad. I forgot about the constant voltage wire that allows the mast to retract when the switched wire loses power. You'll have to run that too. "radio signal on" and "amplifier on" are the same things more or less. If there's only one wire, it's both. It's just a +12v wire switched with the power button of the radio.

I'm obviously not power antenna equipped, so I don't know exactly how the OEM system operates.

On a large percentage of aftermarket and other OEM manufactures systems I've dealt with the "remote on / radio signal on" wire is singular and powered full time when the head unit is powered on. With others, normally high-end units and systems, there are two "remote on/signal" wires; one is for the power antenna and is only powered when the radio (AM/FM) is on. If you switched to Tape, CD, AUX, etc the antenna went down while the 2nd "remote on" wire maintained the signal voltage so the amplifier(s) remained powered with the radio.

This wire can be called a lot of things. Remote On is most common as it's simply a wire to power up "remote" accessories like power antennas and amplifiers. It can be called a signal, or trigger, too as it "sginals" or "triggers" a device to power up. Like the low voltage/amperage signal/trigger wire on a Relay.

I'd assume since the manual isn't calling out the antenna specifically and just referencing it as a signal wire in general, it's constantly powered when the head unit is on regardless of source. The power antenna might simply plug in to the factory amplifier and the switched wire for the antenna is simply jumperd internally. I honestly don't know how they did it or what the factory setup looks like.

Edit: I guess while I'm forgetting about wires, I shouldn't forget to mention you'll find a ground point back at the tail lights, just pull the rear wall carpet forward to access it.

3 wires it will be!
Now I need to see of I can find some 14 or 16 Ga. Pink wire! LOL!!!