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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My apologies, as this is somewhat of a duplicate post to an older thread I recently responded to.

I am installing a 2004R behind my 461 in my convertible. I plan on running a manual lockup and need ideas for switch location. I know I can change out the detent of the stock shifter to a 4 speed, and mount a switch someplace, but I kind of like the idea of using a B&M Mega Shifter and changing out the momentary T handle switch to a latching type switch. The only down side is I do not know if this shifter will mount on the factory console without modification. I really don't need the ratchet function, and am somewhat worried about reliability, but like the shifter.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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']['exXxas']['itan
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Modification will be required. If your going to run a manual lockup, make sure to wire it though a normally closed relay that gets "opened" with the hot wire off your brake switch. This will prevent chugging if you have to hit the brakes hard in a panic situation and forget to turn the manual switch off.
 

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Whatever you do, if you have an original 4-Speed console in good condition, please don't cut it up! Those things aren't easy to find!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've realized that the brake light switch interconnection is required in the event I forget to unlock the converter, I appreciate the input. The stock console is a two speed auto, sorry for the confusion. I just want to avoid any "hunting" with the lockup, and of course the dreaded leaving it locked in. All ideas welcome!
 

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']['exXxas']['itan
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Well the TCC solenoid relies on 12v signal. However, your brake switch only provides 12v signal when you depress the pedal. Hence you use a 5pin fog lamp relay and an ignition source. The middle leg on the relay is always hot when relay coil is not energized. You can use the 12v signal from the brake switch to "turn on" the relay and make the 12v ignition source go to the outer pin that has nothing plugged into it. One cool thing is you could set up a 3rd brake light and use the outer pin for it! If you look in my build section in the showroom, I have a pretty large schematic that I put together that shows exactly what Im talking about.

http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/517297-68-coupe-build/page-5

My TCC is hooked up this way, but the 12v from the relay goes to a pressure switch located on the case by the servo (4th pressure port), so it will only lock up in 4th gear. I have a 3500+ stall converter so I had my converter special built retaining the lockup clutch for cruising in town. 106LSA cam with lockup...yeah I know a little odd...but if it chugs at slow cruising speed in 4th (cam chop) I can just tap the brake pedal a tiny bit to kick it out. The 2004R may have a 3rd or 4th pressure switch on the valve body, cant remember for sure. it could be used to ground the solenoid and provide the same type of set up I have. TCC lockup in 2nd gear is horrible in a 700 due to the large gap between 1-2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well the TCC solenoid relies on 12v signal. However, your brake switch only provides 12v signal when you depress the pedal. Hence you use a 5pin fog lamp relay and an ignition source. The middle leg on the relay is always hot when relay coil is not energized. You can use the 12v signal from the brake switch to "turn on" the relay and make the 12v ignition source go to the outer pin that has nothing plugged into it. One cool thing is you could set up a 3rd brake light and use the outer pin for it! If you look in my build section in the showroom, I have a pretty large schematic that I put together that shows exactly what Im talking about.

http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/517297-68-coupe-build/page-5

My TCC is hooked up this way, but the 12v from the relay goes to a pressure switch located on the case by the servo (4th pressure port), so it will only lock up in 4th gear. I have a 3500+ stall converter so I had my converter special built retaining the lockup clutch for cruising in town. 106LSA cam with lockup...yeah I know a little odd...but if it chugs at slow cruising speed in 4th (cam chop) I can just tap the brake pedal a tiny bit to kick it out. The 2004R may have a 3rd or 4th pressure switch on the valve body, cant remember for sure. it could be used to ground the solenoid and provide the same type of set up I have. TCC lockup in 2nd gear is horrible in a 700 due to the large gap between 1-2.
Thanks you Derrick. I guess we are neighbors in TX terms.

This helps a lot, and will probably save some coin as well. Sounds like my build is not as stout as yours, but the same practice. I am sure I can get some pointers from Extreme Automatics as well, as they are the ones who will build the tranny. Now to decide on a shifter. Thanks again/
 

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If you like the mega shifters they are easy to mount in the first gen bird. Can use the rubber boot with shifter in neutral as a guide line on where to mount. I prefer the pro stick myself, never miss a gear with it and takes very little shifter travel to bump to the next gear. Here is a couple pics on the mounts I made to lift the shifter up where I wanted it. Just angle iron cut into small pieces and then drilled.

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior

In 4th gear:

Speedometer Vehicle Motor vehicle Wheel Car

In low:

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Wheel

Hope this helps! Cypress is a haul from Jarrell!!
 

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I swapped the TH350 out for a Bowtie Level2 200-4r last year.

image_url-59586-1421872258_thumb.jpg
image_url-59586-1432153549_thumb.jpg


The 200-4R has a pressure switch for 4th(O/D) gear lockup. The bowtie kit came with a 5 prong relay to splice into the brake switch. It is always a closed circuit, until a brake signal is applied, then the relay cuts power to the lockup switch. By default, as soon as it shifts into 4th, the lockup kicks in. Depending on what kind of rear gear/cam setup you have or how you drive, this might be an issue. That's why i installed a manual override switch in the dash bezel. Unfortunately i did have to drill into the extra filler panel, but it wasn't being used anyways. And the aircraft toggles look awesome. The switch opens the circuit before the 4th gear switch, so that if there is anything wrong with the 4th gear transmission pressure switch, i can disable it altogether.

I installed an extra toggle on the dash because it looks good, and there are plenty of things i can use it for in the very near future.

Unless you are going to be using this for racing, i would recommend a 3.42 gear and an unmodified 1st gear valve. The level2 transmission i purchased comes with an over-sized 1st gear valve which causes the transmission to shift into second late. If you ARE going to go to the track often with it in addition to cruising around, then i'd recommend a 3.73.

Something else you might consider...

If you are going to wire the lockup as manual only, then you can ignore this. If you are going to wire it like i did, with full time operation, and manual override, then i would suggest ALSO wiring in a manifold vacuum switch. This will cause the lockup to only activate when you are not attempting to accelerate quickly, when you are not pressing the brake, and when the switch is in "closed" position. Essentially it will only activate at highway cruising speeds.

I installed a 2200 stall converter in my T/A, and i'm wishing that i went just a tad bigger, like a 2500. Because i can't get my Rochester to perform flawlessly, i have to keep the idle about 750 when in gear. The car will roll forward and accelerate to about 5mph if im not stomping on the brake. Idle rpm adjustments and 2500 stall is the lowest i would go with a large overlapped cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again.

The car won't see any track time and I have yet to choose a stall speed. I am running 3.37 rears and Holley EFI. The cam is 230/236 @.05" .560/.570 with 1.6 rockers. Final lift per the build sheet is .603/.608. Appreciate your help with the homework!
 
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