You can buy the individual T47 at AutoZone for $7. If you have the bolt exposed, the folks at AutoZone probably wouldn't have issue with testing the fit before purchase. If it's a different size, they'll have it, and test fitting it there will save a trip or two back.
1998 convertible fluid leak
Hello. I have a 1998 Firebird convertible which needs some repair. There is a tiny leak from the hydraulic system somewhere "upstream" from the electric motor. The fluid seems to be dripping inside the wheel well and falling to the ground right at the lower corner of the quarter panel, behind the wheel. There are no obvious leaks in the trunk area around the motor/reservoir.
Is there a "most likely" cause for this leak? I'm thinking the cylinder is worn out and should be replaced, but I have no prior experience with convertibles so am just guessing at this point.
If not the cylinder, what might be the next thing to check?
If I can determine the cylinder is the problem, is there a replacement set anyone can recommend?
Also, on the reservoir there are 2 molded lines. When topping off the fluid which line am I aiming for?
Finally, I've seen various online posts going back 20-odd years about the proper fluid to be used. Originally ATF, which I'm still using, but I've also seen motor oil and baby oil. Is there an "official" determination on this?
Thanks for any help or direction anyone can provide.
Is there a "most likely" cause for this leak? I'm thinking the cylinder is worn out and should be replaced, but I have no prior experience with convertibles so am just guessing at this point.
If not the cylinder, what might be the next thing to check?
If I can determine the cylinder is the problem, is there a replacement set anyone can recommend?
Also, on the reservoir there are 2 molded lines. When topping off the fluid which line am I aiming for?
Finally, I've seen various online posts going back 20-odd years about the proper fluid to be used. Originally ATF, which I'm still using, but I've also seen motor oil and baby oil. Is there an "official" determination on this?
Thanks for any help or direction anyone can provide.
21 - 25 of 25 Posts
Funny you should mention that. I tried a T45 and T50 borrowed from work today, and concluded that yep, it's a T47. Saw that Auto Zone carries them so I plan to do exactly as you described. Thanks.You can buy the individual T47 at AutoZone for $7. If you have the bolt exposed, the folks at AutoZone probably wouldn't have issue with testing the fit before purchase. If it's a different size, they'll have it, and test fitting it there will save a trip or two back.
The replacement cylinders use automatic transmission fluid, so that's resolved.
Would there be any value in documenting all of this for public use? Doesn't seem to be a lot of clear-cut info out there.
In my eyes, all documentation is valuable, so please do. Someone will eventually dig it up and be thankful there is a clear answer. Stick around long enough and you will notice plenty of new members digging up years old threads that the community helped on, but the final solution was never confirmed or documented leaving the whole topic up in the air. It's frustrating to those who spent time helping, and those seeking the answer.Would there be any value in documenting all of this for public use? Doesn't seem to be a lot of clear-cut info out there.
So you don't want to accept the spec written in the 2000 factory service manual (only 2 years newer than your vehicle) that describes a hydraulic system of components that appears to have gone unchanged for about 9 years? Instead you want to take a WAG and continue to use ATF? And you have been using ATF in a system that is now leaking.
I can’t understand your logic. Good luck.
I can’t understand your logic. Good luck.
OK, this past weekend, with some much-needed help, I got the lift cylinders replaced. I'll attempt to outline what we did, for future reference, with the caveat that some details may not apply to other model years.
The interior rear panels were easy to remove. A small screw at the seat belt, a larger screw at the piece of trim along the inside of the door, and the seat back striker, which needs a T47 Torx bit. The courtesy light is easy to disconnect.
The rear speakers need to be removed. They're mounted with 4 screws to a black plastic collar, which in turn is mounted to the inside of the quarter panel. Two wires, with plastic clips, on each side. Each wire is a different color, so I marked a letter on a clip on each side to make sure I reconnected them properly.
The cylinder push rod is connected to the bracket with a pin, which then has a cotter pin through the end. A bit difficult to see but seems more easily accessible with the top up. The service manual says to perform this entire replacement with the top up, but once the rod is disconnected it's much easier- and easier to see- the cylinder with the top folded down.
The cylinder itself is mounted in a bracket accessed through the speaker hole. On the near side there's a bolt threaded through the bracket with a pin/stud on the end. A T55 Torx bit is needed for this bolt. The outer side of the bracket has a pin/stud either molded or welded on the inside of the bracket. This pin also has a spring washer. (I'm afraid I can't recall if the bolt had a spring washer.) The cylinder pivots on these pins.
There are 2 hydraulic lines on each cylinder. They're color-coded for the top and bottom, but due to the different lengths it would be difficult to reverse them.
Here's where we had a wrinkle. The new cylinders had larger diameter fittings so we clipped the old fittings off the lines and made them work. While removing the lines we held a paper cup under them to catch most of the fluid, then taped them closed momentarily.
Once we cleared that hurdle everything went back together easily enough. Bled the system- had to add a good bit of fluid- and they work great. For the record the new cylinder paperwork said to use automatic transmission fluid, and since that's what was already in the system (from prior to my purchase) I saw no point in changing it.
Additional details are in the 1998 service manual beginning page 8-836.
Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. These notes are my small attempt at returning the courtesy.
The interior rear panels were easy to remove. A small screw at the seat belt, a larger screw at the piece of trim along the inside of the door, and the seat back striker, which needs a T47 Torx bit. The courtesy light is easy to disconnect.
The rear speakers need to be removed. They're mounted with 4 screws to a black plastic collar, which in turn is mounted to the inside of the quarter panel. Two wires, with plastic clips, on each side. Each wire is a different color, so I marked a letter on a clip on each side to make sure I reconnected them properly.
The cylinder push rod is connected to the bracket with a pin, which then has a cotter pin through the end. A bit difficult to see but seems more easily accessible with the top up. The service manual says to perform this entire replacement with the top up, but once the rod is disconnected it's much easier- and easier to see- the cylinder with the top folded down.
The cylinder itself is mounted in a bracket accessed through the speaker hole. On the near side there's a bolt threaded through the bracket with a pin/stud on the end. A T55 Torx bit is needed for this bolt. The outer side of the bracket has a pin/stud either molded or welded on the inside of the bracket. This pin also has a spring washer. (I'm afraid I can't recall if the bolt had a spring washer.) The cylinder pivots on these pins.
There are 2 hydraulic lines on each cylinder. They're color-coded for the top and bottom, but due to the different lengths it would be difficult to reverse them.
Here's where we had a wrinkle. The new cylinders had larger diameter fittings so we clipped the old fittings off the lines and made them work. While removing the lines we held a paper cup under them to catch most of the fluid, then taped them closed momentarily.
Once we cleared that hurdle everything went back together easily enough. Bled the system- had to add a good bit of fluid- and they work great. For the record the new cylinder paperwork said to use automatic transmission fluid, and since that's what was already in the system (from prior to my purchase) I saw no point in changing it.
Additional details are in the 1998 service manual beginning page 8-836.
Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. These notes are my small attempt at returning the courtesy.
21 - 25 of 25 Posts
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