Air pump is not working, sits on the drivers side. A new fuse and disconnected it works without error on a -95.Not an EGR component. That is part of the AIR pump secondary air injection system. Routing looks all wrong. Metal pipe appears to be incorrect part and facing in the wrong direction. Check the factory service manual for the correct arrangement. As long as the AIR check valve (part the hose connects to) is working correctly and not leaking, that hose only handles ambient air. Also see Shoebox’s photo:
EDIT: Wanted to add - if the hose is simply ripped, it's a simple repair. If the hose is actually melted, showing exposure to excessive heat, the check valve is probably leaking and needs to be replaced.
OK, someone has done some modding then. I think I maybe need the checkvalves for the emissions. I also have to plug the inlet pipe if I try your recepie?Sorry, but that is not the correct original configuration. Your check valve inlet is facing toward the rear. It should be facing toward the front, closer to the oil fill cap. The stock configuration has a simple rubber 90-degree elbow to connect the line from the AIR pump to the check valve. Does not have a long hose.
Did you look at Shoebox's photo? That is an exact photo of an original 1995 LT1 passenger side configuration. Exact duplicate of my 1994. And if you look at Shoebox's photos of the driver's side, it is not the same.
If AIR pump is not working (yes, I know where it is on the driver's side, and how to avoid a code when it fails) why do you need to keep the hose and pipes in place? When AIR is deleted, best thing to do is remove all the plumbing and plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds. That eliminates issues with leaking check valves. Unless local emissions requires the plumbing for visual inspection.
Thanks alot for answering.If the AIR pump is not working, there will be no emissions control performed. In that case the check valves serve no purpose except to stop exhaust from leaking out of the manifolds.
If there is a visual inspection of the emissions systems, you would have to leave all the components in place. The hose in your picture looks like is it molded to the shape, not just a length of straight hose someone used to connect the components. Almost looks similar to the hose that connects from the side of the throttle body to the plastic elbow in the grommet at the rear of the valve cover. That hose is GM part # 10128365
The AIR pump only runs for a few minutes at cold startup. Shuts down until the next cold start. In the US, most tailpipe emissions tests do not include a cold start.
If you remove the check valves and plug the manifold connections, and leave the AIR pump in place, nothing else needs to be plugged or capped. If you remove the AIR pump, you need to cap the nipple on the engine air inlet duct just above the air filter.