Welcome to Firebird Nation, Todd. Be sure to post up pictures when you can!
Complete subframes are big-ticket items. The advantage is an engineered solution where all the components are matched to work better together offering improved geometry for better performance. A secondary advantage is that it looks really cool and you won't have to restore your factory subframe. The disadvantage is cost. Plus you may have to wait for the vendor to fabricate it to your particular car and powertrain requirements. But this is what is necessary for total customs or exotic engine choices.
Tubular A-arms give you most of the same advantages at reasonable cost. Combine them with new bushings and mounts, along with whatever suspension components need replacing/updating, then clean up and paint or powdercoat your factory subframe for better-than-new performance and appearance. This is the route most resto-modders take. Global West and Hotchkis are the main players in this arena, although you can find additional, less expensive vendors as well.
Even stamped factory restoration pieces (or cleaned up originals) will improve handling when combined with polyurethane bushings. Go this route for lowest cost and most factory appearance if restoration is your goal.
On my 2nd Gen, I'm going with Hotchkis tubular A-Arms (uppers and lowers), built-to-spec springs & shocks, solid subframe mounts and polygraphite bushings. Even when combined with the work to clean up and powdercoat the factory subframe, my capital outlay is less than half what a complete subframe kit would cost.
Complete subframes are big-ticket items. The advantage is an engineered solution where all the components are matched to work better together offering improved geometry for better performance. A secondary advantage is that it looks really cool and you won't have to restore your factory subframe. The disadvantage is cost. Plus you may have to wait for the vendor to fabricate it to your particular car and powertrain requirements. But this is what is necessary for total customs or exotic engine choices.
Tubular A-arms give you most of the same advantages at reasonable cost. Combine them with new bushings and mounts, along with whatever suspension components need replacing/updating, then clean up and paint or powdercoat your factory subframe for better-than-new performance and appearance. This is the route most resto-modders take. Global West and Hotchkis are the main players in this arena, although you can find additional, less expensive vendors as well.
Even stamped factory restoration pieces (or cleaned up originals) will improve handling when combined with polyurethane bushings. Go this route for lowest cost and most factory appearance if restoration is your goal.
On my 2nd Gen, I'm going with Hotchkis tubular A-Arms (uppers and lowers), built-to-spec springs & shocks, solid subframe mounts and polygraphite bushings. Even when combined with the work to clean up and powdercoat the factory subframe, my capital outlay is less than half what a complete subframe kit would cost.
