1967 firebird muncie shifter

3958 Views 26 Replies 4 Participants Last post by TOMR67, Jun 2, 2016

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · Feb 17, 2016

My car has an original muncie 4 speed shifter that bolts to the trans cross member and works with the factory console

Problem I have is 2nd and 4th even with the shift plate removed it hits the console

Is this a linkage issue or a worn shifter issue?

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

Terriblehondo

· #2 · Feb 17, 2016

I don't even remember what the muncie shifter was like. I would think the linkage. The first thing I would check is all the rod bushings and the alignment adjustment if it was a Hurst shifter. If that stuff was worn or out of alignment I would get the bushings and tighten everything back up to see if that fixed it. If it did not I would check to make sure that the console is in the right location? How much clearance do you have in reverse first and third at the front of the console? If you have a lot of room in the front and the shifter is in the exact spot it should be maybe the console is not. Highly unlikely but I have aligned consoles to shifters before.

KeyKeeper

· #3 · Feb 17, 2016 (Edited by Moderator)

I would guess the 1-2 and 3-4 and reverse rod ends need adjusted. I know it sounds silly that all of them would be outta whack...but just read till the end.

There is a selector pin built into the shifter handle/arm that selects the indivdual levers when the shifter is rocked from side to side. Once the pin is in the hole in the outter shift levers be it 1/2 3/4 or reverse, then forward/backwards movement of the arm causes the rods to shift the levers on the side of the transmission. This is why both second and 4th are hitting (both rearward shifts) If the adjusters are on the rear part of the linkage rods, I would remove them from their shift levers and adjust all of them equal amount of turns rearward on the linkage(think "unscrew" a this point). If on adjuster pivots are on the trans end of the linkage rods, then adjust them towards the front of the car. This will cause the shifter to sit a bit farther forward in the neutral position. All linkage rods need to be adjusted the same amount or the shifter will not work properly. Only a small amount of adjustment (maybe only 1/2 turns, they are fine thread) Also check your transmission mount for flex/wear.

Most manf moved away from cross member, or floorboard mounted shifters due to rubber insulated mounts sacking out. Once the engine mounts and trans mounts get soft and sack out, the linkage would end up out of adjustment. Hence most shifters were mounted on the transmission tail housing in later years and then even configured to be single rail type like the TKO/T56/T5 ect. Think of how much of a PITA it was to shift an old "3 on tha tree" car after it had a lot of miles...

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TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 17, 2016 (Edited by Moderator)

Yeah this trans came with a tail mounted Hurst , wont work with the console

Console is mounted in the right spot, shifter is perfectly centered in the floor boot

I replaced the mounts years ago I am sure they are still good

This is hi priority on my list when warm weather hits, guy said he had the shifter rebuilt, I can only laugh cause he apparently spent money for nothing since its not right

Need to look how much throw I have on the r 1 3

Terriblehondo

· #5 · Feb 18, 2016

If the shifter was rebuilt and all the bushings are good then it should just be a matter of adjustment follow keykeepers advice.

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 20, 2016

Need to revisit this, anyone have pics or install instructions for this shifter ( a summing its a Hurst copy)

Looking at this I am almost thinking the rods are in the wrong places or the levers on the trans are wrong spots, iirc when I bought this years ago it came in a box with linkage off and I had to guess how it went together

Brown Bird

· #7 · Mar 20, 2016

Is this what it looks like?

Bicycle part Auto part Composite material Metal Font

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TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 20, 2016

Yes that's it, just wondering if there's part numbers on those linkage levers or if they only fit one location, I will use that pic as reference next time I am under car

Terriblehondo

· #9 · Mar 21, 2016

Tom do you have the proper alignment tool? Tool is shown in the second link procedure in the first.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Adjusting-Muncie-shifter-linkage-1964-to-1967-/10000000002115622/g.html

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/2619296-shift-linkage-adjustment-on-muncie-m21.html

Terriblehondo

· #10 · Mar 21, 2016

One of the articles I read said the low holes are to shorten the throw of the shifter.

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #11 · Mar 21, 2016

I think its more I need to shorten the throw, I will give it all a try thanks

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 2, 2016

4

Took a few pics looks like I have the wrong levers on the trans if we go by the pic above, which could make a big difference if the slots in these levers are clocked wrong

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TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #13 · Apr 2, 2016

I can see the slot and the " drill bit space" on the shifter, it appears that the 1/2-3/4 are aligned in neutral , reverse is off some, so this tells me the levers are wrong and I am not getting the proper throw from the shifter

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 2, 2016

Here is the Hurst that came with the trans, I can't use it cause its tail mounted

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Brown Bird

· #15 · Apr 2, 2016

Dude I spent 20 years trying to figure mine out I ended up making my own shifter mount but I put a Saginaw 4 speed in mine and had to

change the drive shaft and the front yoke and a conversion u joint in the back

I really can't help on this one sorry man

KeyKeeper

· #16 · Apr 4, 2016

Tom on post 12, the last pic, you can see the alignment slot/hole near the rear of the shifter? This is where you align the shifter. with it mounted to the trans, stick a drill bit or something in there thats pretty close to size, this will line up all of the selection levers, with all of the shift shafts sticking out of the trans in neutral position, adjust the rear of the linkage rods till the lever links go on the trans shafts easy.

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 4, 2016 (Edited by Moderator)

Yeah just eyeballed it and other them reverse the other 2 look right, I will need to pull the exhaust to realy figure this out

TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #18 · Apr 25, 2016

OK revisit time, seems the 1-2 lever was on reverse so it now functions perfect, swapped the lever that was on 1-2 to reverse it works just needs a little adjustment so now my issue is 3-4 lever which is waaay off

Pic of what I have

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TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #19 · Apr 25, 2016

OK revisit time, seems the 1-2 lever was on reverse so it now functions perfect, swapped the lever that was on 1-2 to reverse it works just needs a little adjustment so now my issue is 3-4 lever which is waaay off

Pic of what I have

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TOMR67

Discussion Starter · #20 · May 7, 2016

I was able to source the 1/2 and reverse levers from kajun Jon in tx. http://www.kajunjon.com

Super nice guy now I just need the correct 3/4 lever, levers were $20 each for originals

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

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