My Bird has 81k original miles with all servicing done by the book. While driving up an entrance ramp the engine shut off and the car came to a rapid stop. Car would not restart, barely cranked. Towed to garage, Oil pump was seized up. Replaced pump and Timing Cover. Now oil pressure when warm is below 30 when running and goes to 0 at a stop. Mechanic noted a little rod knock. Sounds like more than a little to me. What to do about the low oil pressure? What to do about the connecting rod?
1998 V6 Oil Pump Failure - Pump Replaced now Issues
Posted 25 June 2020 - 04:26 PM
By the time a connecting rod or main bearing starts to knock, the damage is done. The bearing surface on the crankshaft has been worn to the point that a new crank is needed. The damage is bad enough that crank can't be turned down to fix it.
Posted 25 June 2020 - 05:33 PM
Price wise what am I looking at to have the engine rebuilt?
Posted 26 June 2020 - 06:48 AM
It depends on if your able to remove engine, then tear it down enough to take to a machine shop and have them do the machine work.
If your going to have a shop do the whole job start to finish, your talking thousands of dollars. I'm thinking 3k to 4K $$$
If you can do most of the work, I'm thinking you would still have about a thousand bucks in the job.
Posted 26 June 2020 - 08:04 AM
New GM long block - $2,811.
- tom99 likes this
1994 FIREBIRD FORMULA
381ci all-forged stroker (Callies Stealth, Oliver billet rods, BME 2618-T61 nitrous pistons) - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - Comp Cams solid roller - MoTeC M48 Pro engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 74#/HR injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendors 0.78:1 O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11 Pro-Street gears - AS&M headers - true duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP / 800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117 MPH straight motor
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