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Woody Wagon

Bracket Race Build Thread

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#1 ponyakr

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  • Year: 1968
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Posted 30 July 2018 - 12:33 PM

Had this wagon for a while. Always wanted a Pontiac dragin wagon. It's too ruff for a resto. But, it shouldn't be too much trouble to make a low budget bracket racer out of. 

 

If for some reason, this build thread is not allowed or wanted on this Bird forum, somebody let me know, & I'll stop it. 

 

These 1st few pics are how it looked when I pulled it from the barn, where it has been the last few years, over to my new shop, using my Kioti tractor.

 

Over the past few years there have been a few dogs and rats live in it. So, it's real nasty on the inside. Hey, there was even a possum died in it. Or maybe one of the dogs brought the possum in. Don't know. :no

 

Anyhow, here's Woody !  :smile22:

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  • Attached File  Woody Side .jpg   131.72KB   0 downloads
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Edited by ponyakr, 30 July 2018 - 01:31 PM.


#2 ponyakr

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  • Transmission: th400, 4-spd muncie

Posted 30 July 2018 - 01:11 PM

Next thing I had to do was get it into the shop & up on stands, since I don't have a lift. Used my Kioti, with a big tire chained to the loader bucket, to push it in. It don't push by hand too easy, since it's heavy & at least one of the front calipers is dragging.

 

Had to remove the exhaust pipe & cat, in order to get to the rear of the pass side motor mount. Had to get in there to hold back up on the nut on the motor mount bolt. I think I got all the wires/tubes/hoses/bolts/etc off, so the engine will come out. Hooked a chain to it. Will probably pull it with the Kioti loader. It's supposed to be an Olds 307.  

 

It has power windows, and the driver window was down part way. So, I unbolted the window & took it out. Will have to come up with a way to secure it in the up position. Won't even try to get the PW working. Ya'll may also notice my makeshift inside door handle. The original is broke off. But any flat blade screwdriver will work perfectly. So, I found a rusty junker and "installed" it. :smile22:

 

The tailgate would not open. So, I had to figure out how to get it open. Finally manged to do so. Think I'll plan a way to hold the door shut, without using the stock latch mechanism. That way I won't ever have to worry about the tailgate getting stuck again. That's one thing I like about race cars. You don't have to put everything back stock. You can modify stuff, as needed. :yes

 

Next thing to do was to get those nasty seats out. Easier said than done. That driver seat was a pain. But, with the help of a floor jack and some pry bars, I finally got it out. The other seats were not that difficult. The back of the rearward facing seat is the only one left. Tried to lift it up, like I did the back of the 2nd seat. But, it is apparently attached differently. Will have to take more time to investigate, to see what it will take to remove it.

 

There looks to be plenty of room in the back, for a fuel cell & a couple of batts. Will probably build some sort of box cover over the cell, and batts, if I put the batts back there. The tech guys probably wouldn't go for a cell & batts in the back, without a decent cover. Sorta like a 3rd gen or X-body with a hatchback. 

Attached Files


Edited by ponyakr, 30 July 2018 - 01:30 PM.


#3 JOE68

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 04:03 PM

wow Don   thats the worst front seat I've ever seen..lol     maybe you can fab up a way to open the gate mechs....would be handy to service batts or cell.  maybe you could make the back compartment split into 2 sides to keep batts and cell away from each other.    looks like a fun project



#4 sea dog

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 04:36 AM

That 2nd pic of the front seat looks like my 3rd gen seat after my dog ate it when she was still a puppy.



#5 ponyakr

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 08:18 AM

OK guys, here's my first tech problem I need help with.

 

This is the 1st door I've ever been into which had a PW. The only thing holding the glass in were 2 bolts which attached to the white plastic bracket, in the pic below. The bracket appears to be attached to a plastic/nylon strap, which has a lot of holes in it. 

 

From the little I can see, it appears that the electric motor causes that strap to go up & down. I could see no way to move the bracket up higher on the strap. And I obviously can't move the strap with the motor. Hey, I can't even see the motor. Can reach inside & feel it. I assume the 2 visible rivets are what holds the motor in.

 

So, my question is: Is there any way to move the bracket higher on the strap ?

 

The only solution I can come up with is the old "rig it" method. There's plenty of metal on the door to drill holes and use long bolts with blocks of wood, positioned correctly, in order to hold the glass in the up position. We very seldom ever rolled our windows down, while at a race. So, a working window is not needed. 

 

The 2nd pic below is of my GTO bracket car coming back down the return road, with me holding the door open to get some air. 

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Edited by ponyakr, 31 July 2018 - 08:22 AM.


#6 sea dog

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 09:12 AM

Best I can do is to provide you with parts list & illistration of the door parts.

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#7 ponyakr

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 10:06 AM

Best I can do is to provide you with parts list & illistration of the door parts.

 

Thanks, but I don't get anything when I click on that link. Don't think a parts list will help any. I can see the part that needs to be moved. It's the white plastic bracket that the glass attaches to. Just don't know how to move it higher on the strap. :no



#8 Formula71

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 11:06 AM

We have a Showroom for other Vintage Pontiacs. I took the liberty of moving your post there. Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted with all your updates and questions.


RIP Jay - So glad to have known you

#9 ZumpTA

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 11:16 AM

 
Thanks, but I don't get anything when I click on that link.

The link doesn't open a page, it downloads a file. You've probably downloaded it without realizing. Easy to do.

In the PDF file, a standard GM window regulator is shown. Looks identical to what's in my 1993. ...no strap. You really might want to look at that PDF, it contains an EXPLODED view, not just a parts list.

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#10 JOE68

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 04:11 PM

to remove regulator you drill out the rivets.    then you can remove motor and move strap to where you need it and bolt or weld it there.   be careful removing motor because it's usually spring loaded to assist window.  that whole assy with the track will come out of door with a bit of wiggling.   make sure you tape the window up so it doesn't drop and shatter.   before drilling rivets, take a small punch and knock steel pin out of the middle



#11 ponyakr

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 12:21 PM

"...be careful removing motor because it's usually spring loaded to assist window..."

 

 

I can easily grind the heads off the rivets. But I can't see the motor. Is that spring you mentioned gonna hurt me if I reach down inside the door to pull the motor up ? 

 

Hey, it's just the fear of the unknown. I have no idea what to expect if I grab the motor & try to pull it out. Had rather leave it in there than rip my arm or hand open.  



#12 JOE68

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 03:53 PM

the motor is hooked right to the track....it all comes out as one unit.   then you can seperate motor from track...it's either bolted or riveted to track.  that style might not have the spring....the older school ones had a arm and it was spring loaded.  just stick the whole thing in the vice when you pull motor and be clear of any parts that move...just in case



#13 cajun

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Posted 16 August 2018 - 07:38 PM

Going to be a great project Don good luck




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