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water pump issue


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#1

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Posted 28 July 2007 - 03:06 PM

i seem to have a leak from just above where you do trhe timing....my guess is that the waterpump has issues but need to know how hard it is to replace.....since i have a smaller engine should be pretty simple right or is it someting that I have missed...... its right under the fartest pulley


thanks in advance

#2 TheDon619

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Posted 28 July 2007 - 04:17 PM

Well is the car responding differently sens eu noticed he fluid? not cooling properly, or getting the low coolent light, wut color is the fluid? more information will make it wasyer to tell you your problem.
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#3

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 10:57 AM

thanks don for the reply..... it idles a different when started up in th morning...... cooling fan relay is broken and have a switch that need to be turned on when driving.....fluid is still yellow (color of the liquid) and seems to have a slow leak....and no coolent light as of yet ....i generally top it up every day (small leak in rad as well :burnout23: )

#4 TheDon619

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 11:32 AM

yellow fluid? coolent is useally green, nehow if you got leaks from the rad. you need to fix that to be sure that not the problem, but then again around 100k the water pump if stock is generally going to fail, mine did and had to replace it, its not a big deal but if you got leaks you need to get them fixed bc as happened with me, you have a small leak and you get used to it and dont htink anything about something bigger bc you used to it heh, but its possible your water pumps goin bad, or its just from the Rad. or it could be the thermostat housing isent tight enough.
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#5 BlkBird408

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 11:34 AM

The only thing I know of that you need to be careful of changing the water pump on some V6 engines is that some of the bolts that hold the water pump on also go through the timing cover and removing the water pump can break the seal of the timing cover and allow antifreeze into the oil. Be sure when you remove the water pump you have some kindof of pressure against the timing cover to hold it in place.
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#6

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 06:28 PM

funny thing is that I do need a new rad ...it leaks at the top by the MAS...but when car is running you are able to see the greenish coolent leaking out from bottom where timing is done. would it be benifical to get new part or one from junker? new gasket would be for sure ....... i bought this from some kid and i tell you what....it has been a learning experience, everything that I said " impossible" so far has been possible :burnout23: thanks for the help, will try to get a pic of the leak tomorrow for shizzle.

Edited by dmac23, 29 July 2007 - 06:28 PM.


#7 TheDon619

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 09:09 PM

Id say when talking bout the cooling system, go new, its very important to get it right and you dont want some junk to realize it dont work right and you blow your engine, it my only be a sixer but itll put you out of transportation.
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#8

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 11:19 AM

can the leaking waterpump blow the engine ? wow I have a 30km drive to and from work every day, and no gages to tell me the temp :beer:

#9 BlkBird408

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 11:57 AM

It wont blow the engine but if enough antifreeze leaks out the engine can overheat and either crack the heads or even crack the block.
1989 Firebird--408 engine, Stage 4 700r4 tranny, Strange Engineering 12 bolt rearend,
GTA crosslace wheels, BFGoodrich drag radials, Spohn lca`s and relocation brackets, subframe connectors
adjustable TQ arm, wonderbar, adjustable panhard rod, driveshaft loop, extreme duty driveshaft
KYB shocks/struts, Eibach sportline lowering springs, 97 Firebird seats, 85 trans am steering wheel
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#10

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 12:58 PM

so I will keep an eye on the overflow to make sure she is filled upon every dirve home :) thanks for the help

#11 FAST RS

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 02:54 PM

There is also a coolant passage in that goes into the manifold below the throttle body those get old and break really easy. Get a coolant pressure tester put 16 pounds of pressure and see were the leaks are coming from.
1968 Pontiac Firebird
455 bored .30 over with TRW forged pistons, Torker 2 intake, 750 cfm Demon Carb, ISKE Cam, Mallory HyFire ignition box with a Mallory unilight distributor Super Comp Headers, 3 inch cutouts, 3 inch exhaust into Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Almunium Drive Shaft, All new suspension Eaton Springs out back Moog up front with KYB gas Adjusts all around.


1991 Camaro RS V-6
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MSD 6 AL, MSD COIL
CAI, Underdrive pullys.
And some stuff i cant think of at the moment.

#12

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 04:54 PM

i never knew that thanks mein for the insigth ...... but I am going to replace the pump. As i have stated in previous post, i bought this car from some kid and it was not well taken car of.....so I have already replaced the flywheel......no biggie (yeah right) now it the water pump..... i always thought this stuff was hard core expensive....turns out its just the labour .......but will keep the nation posted as i feel i will be needing some more help sooner than later

#13 TheDon619

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 05:13 PM

ya replacing stock is useally pretty cheap for parts, but labor is out the ass, easyer to learn to do it yourself or become very good friends wit a mechanic.
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#14

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 05:42 PM

i have read on other forums (not a s great as this one :rockon22: ) that these cars be it a maro or a bird are the bes to learn how fix for some reason..... my next project once the bird dies will be a import FWD clutch repair....but we shall worry about that when the time comes....for now need to resolve the leak

#15

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 01:46 PM

water pump has been picked up and rad from wrecker tomorrow......... should be done by friday afternoon

#16 FAST RS

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 08:11 PM

It is a strait forward job you should have no problems doing the waterpump its just a matter of seeing how things attach. If you had more experience I would say do the timing chain while you have the pump off.
1968 Pontiac Firebird
455 bored .30 over with TRW forged pistons, Torker 2 intake, 750 cfm Demon Carb, ISKE Cam, Mallory HyFire ignition box with a Mallory unilight distributor Super Comp Headers, 3 inch cutouts, 3 inch exhaust into Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Almunium Drive Shaft, All new suspension Eaton Springs out back Moog up front with KYB gas Adjusts all around.


1991 Camaro RS V-6
MODS: FAST CHIP STAGE 2
MSD 6 AL, MSD COIL
CAI, Underdrive pullys.
And some stuff i cant think of at the moment.

#17

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 08:45 PM

may be i will fast RS maybe i will.....lol...

#18 FAST RS

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 09:04 PM

If you do make sure that the 2 dots line up on the timing gears. also you might want to pick up a new tensioner if you do that.
1968 Pontiac Firebird
455 bored .30 over with TRW forged pistons, Torker 2 intake, 750 cfm Demon Carb, ISKE Cam, Mallory HyFire ignition box with a Mallory unilight distributor Super Comp Headers, 3 inch cutouts, 3 inch exhaust into Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Almunium Drive Shaft, All new suspension Eaton Springs out back Moog up front with KYB gas Adjusts all around.


1991 Camaro RS V-6
MODS: FAST CHIP STAGE 2
MSD 6 AL, MSD COIL
CAI, Underdrive pullys.
And some stuff i cant think of at the moment.

#19

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 05:35 PM

issue resolved took about a day but was good to finish ...also did the the CAI from jeff85


waterpump
rad
themostat
CAI

not bad for a weekend :B):

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