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#825687 SCAN9495 - Free Scanning Software for 94/95 LT1 (OBD-1)

Posted by GaryDoug on 19 January 2013 - 06:44 PM

Too many distraction for a while, but now I'm past the first step, getting a platform to use. Here is a photo of a minimal OBD1 adapter that you can make yourself. Nothing new here. I stole this one off the web and made it from parts I had already. It works just fine with Freescan and Datamaster (which I keep on a re-storable old PC for perpetual use...) on the 94 PCM from a Z28. Not sure how well they work on a newer PC using a USB-to-serialport adapter. One's on order, so I will find out.

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#823163 SCAN9495 - Free Scanning Software for 94/95 LT1 (OBD-1)

Posted by GaryDoug on 12 December 2012 - 02:11 PM

I just bought a used 1994 Formula PCM for $53 and will use it to try to make an OBD1 scan app. According to my Tech2 clone, it is working. I can use that with a data sniffer to see how it requests the data. Give Freescan a try too.

For what it is worth, the guy has another one for sale for the same price, in case anyone needs a spare: http://www.ebay.com/...=item4abf73be35
Not sure if it is a Pontiac or Camaro though, without the VIN.

EDIT BY ADMIN - This thread describes the developement of SCAN9495. This software is available in a free download, and will scan the PCM, ABS and SRS (air bag) systems. Gary has also come up with sources for ready-made and D-I-Y interface cables. It's worth reading through the entire thread to see how it was developed, the various updates, and the solutions to interface problems that some people have found (and Gary has solved) with various PC operating systems. For anyone in a hurry, here's the link to the software, user manual, etc.

http://www.mediafire...s#gonkz3785ph7o
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#667609 LINK: 4TH GEN SERVICE MANUALS; 82-02 PARTS DIAG; 99-02 WIRING DIAG

Posted by GaryDoug on 07 July 2011 - 01:28 PM

Some resources:

These books are in .pdf format, in multiple parts. There is a free-ware pdf utility program there if you need one, which can be used to merge the sections into original size.

F-PLATFORM (FIREBIRD/CAMARO) FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS:

(These are not links - just a list. Click on the link at the very bottom of this post for access to the folder containing all these items.)

1993
1994
1995
1996 - 1997 should be very similar
1998
1999
2000

Exploded parts diagrams for 1982 - 2002 models.

Wiring diagram downloads for 1999 - 2002 models.

Double click on a filename to start the download for that file.This site has a good amount of ads and some popups, but doesn't require you to install anything, just click on the "close" or "X" of each unwanted popup. Pay attention to not click to close the file download popup message. After the file download, close the browser download page to start on the next file. The files are pure pdf with no added items.

[EDIT]All of the above are now available in a single folder.

http://www.mediafire.../?40mfgeoe4ctti

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#414795 Strobe installation

Posted by on 24 November 2009 - 04:36 PM

Sorry, I can't help ya, I thought strobe lights were made for disco's.



ok thanks bob.

anyone know anything about running wires? (whose expertise isnt limited to banning people from ma)
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#507876 Not complaining, just explaining

Posted by litevette on 09 June 2010 - 07:27 AM

For some reason, this forum is SLOOOOOW to load. No other forums I visit take so long to load and navigate through. I wonder if it has something to do with all of the stuff you have to scroll down past on each page to get where you want to go. On no other forum that I visit do you have to scroll past all of that stuff. Maybe it needs to be taken into consideration. Another issue this stuff causes is this. When hit back on your browser, you don't know which page you've landed on, or if you are where you want to be until you scroll past all that stuff. Can't all of that be moved to the bottom of the pages to make it more user friendly?
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#613992 Goodbye Firebird

Posted by 1tinindian on 06 February 2011 - 07:13 PM

Looks like it's time for you to go to Camaro Nation.
Too bad about giving up on a Firebird.

I guess some people just don't get it.

Leon
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#606999 National FBN Get together

Posted by WHITE-68 on 19 January 2011 - 06:55 AM

Here is an idea if your Firebird or T/A isn't running SHUT-UP, you don't have a say.. If its 500 miles or less I will be there, otherwise doubt it.. Just the way it is..
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#476628 "Performance Chips"

Posted by Injuneer on 12 April 2010 - 10:33 AM

The PCM is hard coded to produce an A/F ratio of 14.7:1 in closed loop. That's the level required for the catalytic converter to work, and produces reasonable fuel economy. "Closed loop" is the PCM's method of controlling A/F ratio at part load conditions. When you go WOT (its actually a table ot throttle position vs. RPM) the PCM richens the mixture. The typical target A/F ratio for WOT is 11.7:1. That's too rich. You will generally get better results with something in the range of 12.8 - 13.2:1. Its easy to alter the target A/F ratio for WOT in the program tables.

Once you get the PCM to operate at the correct target A/F ratio, the PCM looks at the mass air flow, divides by the target A/F ratio, and then calculates the injector pulse width required to delivere the required fuel flow. In order to calculate the pulse width, the PCM has to be programmed with the correct injector flow rating. Stock programming is 24.9 #/HR.

The problem with using larger injectors than it's programmed for is that the engine may run rich in closed loop, and will run pig-rich at WOT. The excess fuel may be enough to wash the lubrication off the cylinder walls, and cause ring damage. The fuel can also dilute the oil, causing bearing damage. In closed loop (part load driving) the O2 sensors will help the PCM correct the excessively rich mixture, but the PCM can only "subtract" about 15% excess fuel using the long term fuel corrections. The 30 #/HR injectors are adding 20% excess fuel, more than the PCM can adjust for.
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#468635 Working under a car.

Posted by Pete W on 28 March 2010 - 05:55 AM

Folk's, we just had a member from another car club gut crushed and killed while working under his truck, the jack collapsed and the axle stand shifted pinning him and taking his life.

I cannot tell you how many times I have ripped guys heads off after seeing their car's up in the air and not even remotely jacked up properly, supported, not on level ground, no wheel blocks etc and no parking brake being used!

Please take this seriously and use caution to extreme level's always, never jack up your vehicle and get immediately under it,check for stability and safeness as this can be a one time option.
I am going to find as many articles as possible to link here and I urge you to read them and or watch them and appreciate anyone with a lot of knowledge to offer their advice on this important subject.

Having a cool car,truck project can be fantastic but having your surviving wife sell it to support her and your kids is not!

http://www.techguys....floor_jack.html

http://www.livescien...oRef=jackupacar

I know there are folks here that have done extensive repairs and building of cars who would have great insight and safety tips, please add your thoughts to this post and always remember most accidents are caused by rushing or improper care, sometimes what you do a lot makes you too confident and in fact careless which can take your life.

Jacking a car is so dangerous I would add a disclaimer to this post that no one should consider anything posted here as gospel to raising,lowering and supporting your car, it is always your responsibility to use the best of your knowledge, the best in jacks and support stands, blocks and utmost care.

If you are not going to invest in best quality jacks, stands, blocks etc then take it to a garage period. :)
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#838105 Should i buy this 1970 firebird 350 for $3000?

Posted by WHITE-68 on 21 March 2013 - 04:41 PM

:angrysoapbox: You would really try to profit off the people that were helping you in the 1st place? I could see asking 3k.. But I almost think its an insult to ask 5k from the very people that helped you with it in the first place? Your original thread was "should I buy this" It looks like you have bought it, but now don't have time so your going to try and profit off it.. I think I will close the thread. If you have new issues open a new topic. Please be courteous and don't disrespect the people that helped you.
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#827558 SCAN9495 - Free Scanning Software for 94/95 LT1 (OBD-1)

Posted by GaryDoug on 12 February 2013 - 07:48 PM

Update: Ordered 4 USB-to_Serial port adapters, received 3 so far. Only one will work with Freescan. It is a Sabrent model CB-FT1K, which has the FDTI chip. That IC device is well recognized as reliable and well documented, especially for supporting non-pc baud rates like the 8192K. Anyone wanting to use the DIY circuit with a newer PC and a USB port should look for an adapter saying it has the FTDI chip. Here is the Sabrent one: http://www.amazon.co...ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
The other two devices were the Trendnet TU-S9 and a Chinese no-name product. Both of those devices use the Prolific chip and do not work with Freescan.
Right now I am using the Sabrent device with my DIY 2-transistor circuit (mentioned above) on a Windows 7 PC running Freescan and connected to 94 Z28 PCM and am getting good data. Total cost so far is $13 for the Sabrent adapter and about $10-$15 for the interface circuit. Now that I can use the newer pc, I can more easily begin developing my own program (maybe?).
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#826234 New to FBN and recently purchased barn find

Posted by GaryDoug on 25 January 2013 - 07:43 PM

Do both lamps not work, right and left? Each side uses a separate ground connection, so if only one side does not work, suspect the ground, on the back side of the radiator support behind the headlamp. But if both sides are not working, suspect the supply side of the circuits (light switch, dimmer switch, fuse). Check the voltage at the three terminals on the dimmer switch. With the light switch on, there should be 12v at two of the terminals. If there is 12v at only one terminal, the dimmer switch is defective. If none have 12v, there is something wrong with the headlamp switch or wires to it and the fuse panel.
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#818765 Firebird in barn for 33 years

Posted by steve1861 on 05 October 2012 - 05:09 PM

Here are some pictures of the '68 Firebird barn find, and here's my take on the whole story. Hope you enjoy it!


Ever since I rode in my first convertible with my babe I fell in love with the freedom that a convertible gives. So I had to have one. I wanted the best of both worlds, a classic car and a convertible. But I never settle for less than the best, and I needed an original and rare car that I could refinish back to its original state. I wasn't looking for perfection, I need something to occupy my free time during the week in the winter months that were pending. I searched for over a year to find the right car. I searched in various states, various websites and took many roadtrips only to find that what was described as the perfect car for me, was not nearly as perfect as they depicted. I was getting frustrated and anxious that I would not find what I wanted.

Looking through Craigslist, getting alerts about new posts, endless searches all over the place….fruitless. One night as I continued my search, I came upon a newly posted ad:

1968 Firebird convertible. Matching numbers. Phone number. Price.

No pictures, no further description. No email. I called him as soon as I saw it, it was located in Vermont. I offered him his asking price plus $1000 over, and made arrangements to be there first thing Saturday morning. The calls were already pouring in to him, and I wanted to beat them. A neighbor had offered him 4500, but he chose not to sell it to him because he didn't want to see it driving around his neighborhood.

So we packed up and headed to Vermont on Saturday morning, trailer in tow. Now reality is setting in. What if it's totally rotted? What if it's not matching numbers? What if what if… but it didn't matter . Babe had a feeling that it was going to be a great surprise, that I would find something to be excited about when I finally saw it. I was hesitant still. Driving up route 107 to Barnard. We're making bets about what the color is, what condition it might be in, and who is this person we're about to meet. We get about 10 minutes away, and turn onto a side road. It is a very steep hill up a one-lane dirt road. Reminiscent of a horror movie… I was feeling that it was going to be a one of a kind find. In all places, never thought it would be in the hills of Vermont.

We pull up to a ramshackle shack, with abandoned cars all around. The firebird was there. Most people would have seen something destined for the junkyard. The top was ripped off, tires were flat, missing headlights, back window totally gone. But through my eyes I saw a 1968 Firebird convertible right on the showroom floor. I can see the potential in everything. Verdoro green. Original paint. 90% rust, but the color shown through. Still had the registration sticker and plates on it from 1980, the last time it was on the road.

The owner, Jim, walked out. Softspoken. Come to find out, he was the 2nd owner of this car. He worked for a Saab dealership, and this car was traded by a customer, and he bought it at age 17. $10/week payments out of his paycheck.

Looked for the matching numbers. The horsepower matched up. The VIN on the engine was not visible. But Jim guaranteed the engine was original, and I just had a feeling that it was true. This car was the one for me. I had to be content to verify the matching numbers when we got it home. Original interior, original paint, untouched since it left the factory. It had mag wheels added. Third week in May 1968.

Jim said he had a picture of the car, the last day he drove it. He gave us that picture and said we could keep it. Here's Jim in his car in 1977:
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There were a couple of dents, Jim told us how they got there – two were from a deer and one was him backing into a sign.

Jim said the car was recently taken out of a barn that was ready to collapse. So it's truly a barn find, that I've always dreamed about!

Loaded it on the trailer, drove back to town, and all eyes were on the Firebird on the trailer. Even though the top was blowing in the wind, and the tires were flat, it was still a sight to behold. You can see the history in this car, even though it's not in prime condition, there is potential to bring it back to life. Which is exactly what I will do.

We stopped for lunch, parked across the street. We noticed a man and his wife walking around the trailer, looking and smiling at the car. They spent quite a long time, just looking and looking. The wife took a picture of the man standing next to the car. And so it begins…

We pull into the south house. Determined to find the matching numbers, I called a buddy that knows about these things. He suggested look at the bottom of the engine, behind the water pump hose outlet. And that's where I found it. I snapped a photo so we could see it clearly. It's about restoring history. The car becomes my canvas, and I can create something from nothing. I can see beauty in everything.

To me, these classic cars represent the simplicity of life during those times. War was going on, but peace back home. We cherish those times.
Every time we sit in these cars, it's not about the noise the engines make or the horsepower, it's about a memory of simpler times, and an effort to get it back again.
Feeling the past. Reliving the dream.


This car meant a lot to Jim. He chose to not drive it anymore because he knew he was getting reckless and was going to hurt someone or himself. And Jim informed us that he has only a short time left on this earth, as he has terminal cancer. I want to dedicate this restoration project to Jim Clark.

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#625119 P0107 + P0300 + BOSCH's CRAPPY PARTS

Posted by Ice Cold 975 on 09 March 2011 - 03:29 PM

If you remove the CAI the SES light goes off?


yeah, after i but the stock Air Box back on the lights go off. thats why im thinking i have the wrong cone, and im trying to see what other people are running.

Who is the "Bosch god" on this website?

Injuneer, the 1st time i said BOSCH sucks on this website (considering ive had nothing but problems with most of the parts ive bought BOSCH wise, he came at me like i just killed his dog.
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#463286 Rust and Pitting

Posted by MacDuff on 16 March 2010 - 08:36 PM

Cut out the bad metal, replace with new metal. Weld and then finish grind it until its smooth, maybe apply a slight skim coat of body filler if needed, then sand, prime and paint. That's the only way to do it in my opinion if there is a substantial amount of holes. That way you get rid of any chance that the rust will come back sooner than expected and the repair will be like factory, if not better when done right. If there's only some small holes, you may be able to get away with welding and grinding the holes if the metal isn't too thin. You could weld the holes shut then apply the rust converter and then topcoat the converter if you want to. It all depends on how far you want to take it, and what you want the final result to be. Some people like to [email protected] it cuz no one's ever gonna see it, but I don't really understand that type of thinking. If you're gonna spend the time and energy to go in and fix a problem, why not do it the right way the first time? Also, I don't think fiberglass is a recommended repair method for body work, unless its on a fiberglass car or part. :hystlaugh:


-Harry
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#423216 Picture Tribute to my good friend Jay

Posted by 1tinindian on 13 December 2009 - 02:16 PM

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That's right guys, Jay did wear long pants ,but after all, this was in March...LOL!
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Please keep adding to this thread in honor of our fallen friend Jay!

I miss you buddy!

And don't forget to give to the Chip-in box at the top of the page, as every dollar given means the world to Liz and the girls
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#407775 sig please

Posted by on 08 November 2009 - 06:51 PM

lol dude that is awsome u did good


thanks bro
2 favors though if u can
hit that rep points up and vote my car on my "All Things V6" thread lol if u can
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#1179946 Why should you buy an American car?

Posted by ponyakr on 05 November 2014 - 01:50 AM

I wouldn't really prefer most of the NEW American made cars. But the old Musclecars from the '60's and '70's, that's a different thing altogether. They just have a "cool factor" that nothing else has. :cool:

Just consider Pontiacs. How about a '65 GTO with a 4-speed and 3-dueces. Hey, it don't get much cooler than that. Then the Firebird came along. How about a '68 or '69 4-speed Bird with round port heads and a posi rear end with 3.90 or 4.33 gears.

Then, there came the Judges. RA3 and RA4 400's and the 455's. Cool then and high $ collector cars today. Then, how about the 455HO and 455SD 2nd gen Birds. Possibly the last of the truly high performance engines of that era.

And one of the most popular Pontiacs of all times, the black Bandit Bird. The W72 220hp 400 engines from '78-'79 were the last of the 400 Pontiac engines. And, although they were crippled with low compression and smog stuff, were still just about the strongest American muscle at the time. I'm guessing that a '78 W72 with a 4-speed and 3.42 gears was one of the quickest American made cars at the time. I'm not including Corvettes in this discussion, because they always seemed to get by with a little more power and the light FG body.

Hey, the cool factor of the old Musclecars is something that many folks just don't understand. But if you were a gearhead and were alive back in those days you can never forget. I suppose the best explanation I've heard for it is " If I have to explain it to you, you won't understand." :smile22:
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#804064 looking for horsepower in my 3.8

Posted by brarei200 on 17 June 2012 - 01:05 PM

If money is not a problem....

-Ram Air Hood with Ram Air Intake OR keep the stock hood and do this, http://www.firebirdn...-and-v8-models/

-True Dual Exhaust with Headers (youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=k-083dKLrQs picks up a lot of horsepower and will sound great, but it is NOT cheap)

-3.42 Posi Gears, 3.73 is too high for an automatic car (http://www.wallacera...om/reargear.htm)

-Put a lower thermostat in the car, I know when my car gets hot, it feels like it looses so much power, running cool would be bette, I think 180 or maybe even 160 would be okay (http://www.camarozon...ermostat-64450/)

-Get a tune, they pick up about 10 horses on a stock motor, and maybe 15-20 on a modified one (http://www.pcmforless.com/)

-Make sure all the fluids are good too since you just got the car!!!
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#1193817 93 Firebird Optispark failure analysis

Posted by GaryDoug on 08 December 2014 - 08:40 PM

This topic is about the Opti that Tony ("ZumpTA") suspected was bad in his 93. He removed it when it was repeatedly failing after only a few minutes of run time.

I tested it on the bench in my "Little Shop of Horrors" and found the fault (hopefully). The Opti would fail after just a brief application of heat from a hair dryer. It fails at 38 seconds in the following video. Watch the scope display go "flatline" for both signals, and the DC current (red display) goes to zero on the power supply in the top right corner.



After the cap was removed, it no longer failed that way, but it did exhibit the same defect mode while being tapped with a screwdriver handle. It appeared that there was a loose connection that happened while the cap and other parts were slightly expanding under heat.

The loose connection was traced to the broken solder connection on one of the two small circuit boards that form the sensor section. This type of Opti has the sensor electronics installed in a large plastic mounting plate (shown below) mounted to the aluminum base, unlike some other ones that use a much smaller single circuit board.

Once the connection was re-soldered, the distributor was reassembled and tested for an hour at 160 *F. There was no failure. Nor was there any signal loss while tapping with the tool as before.

FBN member, Steve ("Birdman350") had the same type Opti with a similar defect last year, only it was the power connection that was intermittent. That is right next to the ground connection. Like this one, his also had no markings to indicate the manufacturer.

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