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#1 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 05:34 PM

sadly, this is my first car with AC in it. when i run the ac, its not very cold, but colder than normal vent blower. i was wondering if its very hard to recharge it myself. any 'how to's out there. what do i need??
1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. Flowmaster exhaust no cats. Pro 5.0 6 speed shifter, Riken Raptor tires, Richmond 3.73 gears, tune by PCMforless.com, 2001 WS6 Aluminum Driveshaft , Clarion DXZ865MP mp3 player. 6x9 MB Quart rear speakers. MB Quart front speakers. Alpine 100x2 amp on 6x9's. Infinity 10" DVC sub, stealth rear sub box, Memphis 500x1 amp, 5% tinted windows.
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#2 User is offline   FBN Firebird Nation 

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 05:38 PM

It is very easy to recharge yourself, but it's illegal to discharge any into the air.
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#3 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 05:45 PM

yeah i knew that. i've accidently discharged a bunch when taking apart some AC units. i was out in the middle of nowhere tho. what pressure should i fill the system to?
1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. Flowmaster exhaust no cats. Pro 5.0 6 speed shifter, Riken Raptor tires, Richmond 3.73 gears, tune by PCMforless.com, 2001 WS6 Aluminum Driveshaft , Clarion DXZ865MP mp3 player. 6x9 MB Quart rear speakers. MB Quart front speakers. Alpine 100x2 amp on 6x9's. Infinity 10" DVC sub, stealth rear sub box, Memphis 500x1 amp, 5% tinted windows.
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#4 User is offline   FBN Firebird Nation 

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 08:24 PM

It will tell you on the container you purchase. They should come with a built in pressure gage.
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#5 User is offline   ZumpTA 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 08:39 PM

I've recently recharged mine, I used a store bought recharge kit that came with the gague. I charged mine up to 45 psi. that was the top of the safe zone. I do feel though that I do not have enough, or too much as the system is not performing as it did... The sticker in my engine compartment says to fill to "2 pounds" what that equates to in psi. I have no clue. I have not had any icing over in the system yet, and I've had a tank of gas thru it, so... Stay below 45 psi to be safe. Also, if youre in a hot area, I might recommend doing this first thing in the morning when the outside temp is cooler and the engine is cold. I did mine in the heat of the day and overheated so badly I killed the $200 heater hose.
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#6 User is offline   hgffrank 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 08:49 PM

You will never get the same results from 134a that you did with R12. Thats the price you pay for a cheaper refridgerant. It just doesnt get as cold as R12. And dont quote me on this but if I remember correctly, if it says 2 pounds, then you should use about 32 oz. I could be wrong, its be awhile since I did it and my kit came with the conversion table, so it was easy.
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#7 User is offline   hgffrank 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 08:54 PM

Here is some good info I found:

To dispel one myth, R12 is NOT illegal! Though it is no longer in production in most countries, Congress has mandated that R12 be available to qualified technicians in reserve & recycled forms until the year 2030. The fact is, there isn’t a single shred of evidence that R12 is or has ever been detrimental to the environment! The situation is, however, what it is… out with the old & in with the new.

How do I convert my R12 system to 134a? Simple enough. Regardless of the type of system you are using, there are some basic rules that accommodate all 134a conversions.

1 – Change the oil in the compressor to an oil (PAG or Ester) that is compatible with 134a.

2 – Replace the filter-drier (or accumulator or VIR, depending on the type of system being converted) Keep in mind, NOS driers will not be suitable for 134a!

3 – Flush all original used components to be re-used to insure against contamination. Though it is not necessary to clean every last drop of oil from the system, contamination is the number one cause of air-conditioning failure.

4 – Replace all rubber hoses, using barrier rubber hose. Though your original used hoses may hold in the short-term, they will ultimately leak or burst! A good way to physically check for hose defects is to remove the hose and bend against the natural bow… inspect for dry-rotting, splitting, bubbles or holes at stress points. With any of the above, replace or restore.

5 – For models using fixed-orifice-tubes, (typically 1977 & newer GM & Ford vehicles) it is highly recommended that you purchase a variable-rate replacement. The cost is significantly higher, (We have them available for $39.99) but worth the money. For all other applications, (typically 1976 & older GM & Ford vehicles) a new expansion valve is NOT required for converting to 134a. Contrary to popular opinion, expansion valves are compatible with both R12 & 134a refrigerants.

6 – When converting an R12 system to 134a, charging amounts vary from system to system. A good starting point for charging your freshly converted system is typically about 75-80% 134a of the original R12 charge. You may need to add or subtract a little, depending on your gauge readings & vent temperature.

7 – General motors vehicles using a POA valve will need to have them adjusted to by-pass at the proper 134a pressures... typically 20psi. Since this can't be done while charging the system, it will need to be done with the valve off of the car.
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#8 User is offline   hgffrank 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 09:15 PM

I just found one site that says that 134a is not suitable for high temperatures. It says that in temps around 95 degrees or more that 134a may actual completely fail to cool off. Here is the link:

http://www.heco.net/Whatis.htm
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#9 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 09:47 PM

so what does my firebird probably have in it now? what was it meant to have? if i took it somewhere to get it charged, would they take all these precautions and convert it if i needed to?
1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. Flowmaster exhaust no cats. Pro 5.0 6 speed shifter, Riken Raptor tires, Richmond 3.73 gears, tune by PCMforless.com, 2001 WS6 Aluminum Driveshaft , Clarion DXZ865MP mp3 player. 6x9 MB Quart rear speakers. MB Quart front speakers. Alpine 100x2 amp on 6x9's. Infinity 10" DVC sub, stealth rear sub box, Memphis 500x1 amp, 5% tinted windows.
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#10 User is offline   hgffrank 

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 09:58 PM

Only recently have shops offered to convert systems, but many dont know the proper steps, so I cant really offer a good answer. Being that your car is a 95 I would say that it should have 134a in it from the factory, I dont know if anyone around you offers to convert from 134a to the Freezone RB-276. But it seems that the Freezone doesnt require anything to be changed, just that old stuff be removed and Freezone put in, also they claim to send everything you need so it seems to be an extremely easy and safe conversion. You can probably buy the stuff directly from the site and do it yourself. I have done a 134a conversion and its not hard, and the Freezone appears to be even easier. Just take car and have it drained. No need to flush, then refill with Freezone, its that easy.
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#11 User is offline   rottie1983 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 12:08 AM

im glad i stick to the camaro website these answers are more confusing than the original question

to answer your questions yes very easy go to autozone they have a A/C recharge kit for around 20 to 35 dollars your system is R-134A anything newer than 1993 is R-134A

your system is probably just a little low 45 PSI is you normal filled range you recahge bottle should have a gauge indicating the PSI and it is color coded w/ labels such as low/full/alert and danger when filling your system it will probably be in the alert area don't worry unless it goes to the danger side

to fill your system hook the refill kit to your LOW side A/C line it is the only line the kit will hook to it's kind of dummy proof have your car running w/ the A/C in the on position it usually takes about 10 mins to fill the system getting in the car and giving it a little gas for the first minute usually helps in the filling process

hope this helped you out i normally don't respond to questions rather i just read them but these guys were steering you in the wrong direction w/ answers you didn't need and i felt the need to clarify for you maybe it's all the darvocets im on right now lol who knows either way i don't want to get flamed for no periods or my grammar i dropped out of school before i learned that i tried to space the paragraphs to make it easier to read i may have dropped out but hey i can refill the A/C lol good luck.................<----------- hey look i made up for all those periods i didn't use
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#12 User is offline   hgffrank 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 03:50 AM

Im sorry you feel that way Chris. Understand one thing, 134a is a worthless refridgerant, and I wouldnt recommend it to anyone, and if I did then Im not helping them. You can bad mouth FBN all you want but you are mistaken to think that anyone here at FBN is going to flame you. Unlike those other site that you seem to think so highly of we here at FBN are a family and we take no joy in flaming anyone or putting anyone down in any way. So if your looking for a flame you better find a different campfire to jump in.
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#13 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 06:35 AM

apparently you have to be certified in "mobile a/c" to buy the freezone. wonder if anyone else will have any?
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#14 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 03:21 PM

R134a has been standard in the F-Bodys at least since 1993. I drove my 94 in the heat of southern California for a year and never had a problem... it would spit ice cubes if you wanted it to. Even with an U/D crank pulley it cooled very well. While R134a has different properties, the components in the AC systems have been resized to get the required performance out of it.

First get the system checked for adequate pressure. If that doens't solve the problems, check the vacuum actuation system for the HVAC controls. If you lose vacuum, the flapper doors don't work right and the air may not be as cold as it should be, depending on the position of the flapper doors that control the airflow through the heater core and the AC evaporator.

If the system has been leaking and recharged frequently by an amateur, its possible that air or moisture has entered the system. In that case, you may need a new drier and you may need to have the system evacuated and fully recharged.
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#15 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 06:50 PM

now that you say that. my heater is not very hot either. so basically, the heat isnt very hot, and the a/c isnt very cold. could this just be the flapper doors rather than a refrigerant problem? thanks for the insight injuneer! ps. i got my shift boot to stay up using a combination of 3 zip ties around the threads of my shifter. works great!
1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. Flowmaster exhaust no cats. Pro 5.0 6 speed shifter, Riken Raptor tires, Richmond 3.73 gears, tune by PCMforless.com, 2001 WS6 Aluminum Driveshaft , Clarion DXZ865MP mp3 player. 6x9 MB Quart rear speakers. MB Quart front speakers. Alpine 100x2 amp on 6x9's. Infinity 10" DVC sub, stealth rear sub box, Memphis 500x1 amp, 5% tinted windows.
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#16 User is offline   ZumpTA 

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 09:27 PM

What the hell...

rottie1983, on Jun 4 2006, 12:08 AM, said:

...your system is probably just a little low 45 PSI is you normal filled range

...but these guys were steering you in the wrong direction w/ answers you didn't need and i felt  the need to clarify for you maybe it's all the darvocets im on right now lol
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Right... 45 PSI... Just as I stated above. Injuneer also posted good advice, and hgffrank went out on a limb to educate all of us on a superior product... What more could one ask for? I haven't been here long, but I've read alot of posts, I've seen no bad advice given to anyone as of yet...

As to the pills... I know the feeling... Been eating 8-12 lorocets a day for 2 1/2 years now. I hate how that crap messes me up...

Now... Remember...
1.) Opinions are like assholes, Everybody has one.
2.) Everybody is entitled to MY opinion.
3.) Although I may not agree with what you say, I will defend to the death your right to say it.
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#17 User is offline   95LT1Bird 

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 03:39 AM

can anyone help me about servicing the flapper for the hot/cold air? i dont have a clue where to start.
1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. Flowmaster exhaust no cats. Pro 5.0 6 speed shifter, Riken Raptor tires, Richmond 3.73 gears, tune by PCMforless.com, 2001 WS6 Aluminum Driveshaft , Clarion DXZ865MP mp3 player. 6x9 MB Quart rear speakers. MB Quart front speakers. Alpine 100x2 amp on 6x9's. Infinity 10" DVC sub, stealth rear sub box, Memphis 500x1 amp, 5% tinted windows.
Coming soon: Subframe connectors, SPEC stage 2 clutch
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