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Where can I get a complete rebuild kit? 95 Formula lt1 171k. mi. Yes its been great. Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Speedingbandit 

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  • Engine: 5.7l 350 LT1
  • Transmission: Auto 273

Posted 22 November 2008 - 11:32 AM

Guys I'm needing a complete rebuild kit. I had the trans. rebuilt last year and I dont know which way to go with the engine. I looked at a 383 lt1 thats fresh and ready to go but I'm just wanting a stock rebuild kit I guess and then Ill get lloyd elliott to do the heads and intake and cam. I know Ill probably need a bore wich would give me a 355 right? Do ya think Ill need a bottom end refresh, rotating ass. I'm not sure what all Ill need so thats why I'm needing a compleat overhaul kit if I can get one. Please give me ur advice and opinions. I'm wanting to give her a helluva makeover and come out with 400hp or so. its been a great engine and I wanna make it awesome. Its not giving me any probs except the oil pressure drops at idle to 20 or so and the check engine light comes on sometimes, and it may be the sending unit but it still runs great as it is a daily driver. But at 170k mi. its time ya know. Thanx guys.
95 Formula. Mods are K&N fipk and Flowmaster muffler. Recently had the tranny rebuilt and my engine has 150k mi. and still strong. Just about everyone in my family are Trans Am freaks from classics to LS1..lol. Thanx.
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#2 User is offline   Birdman1970 

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 02:29 PM

If you look on ebaystores, a lot of them sell a variety of engine rebuild kits with a reasonable price for LT-1's. If your looking for the 400 HP mark, I would suggest getting the 383 Stroker kit, don't know how much power it is but it will be a big increase from the stock 275. I don't know, you can probably make it there without the motor being bored and stroked, but if it were me i'd go 383, the LT-1 on steroids! And yes, when your motor gets rebuilt, the motor will most likely have to be bored to 355 if you want a stock rebuild. Hope this helps, there's a lot of LT-1 guru's on this site that can help you more than I could lol

- Dave

This post has been edited by Birdman1970: 22 November 2008 - 02:32 PM

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#3 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 03:01 PM

Your concerns may be premature. 20psi oil pressure at idle, with 171K on the engine would not indicate a problem. GM spec for minimum oil pressure at idle is 6psi. That's how low it has to get to turn on the "check gauges" light.

But you indicated the "check engine" light comes on sometimes. The oil pressure sensor does not connect to the ECM and will not turn on the SES light. If your SES light is on, scan it. You can do that on your 1993 (only year LT1 is works on) simply by shorting the pins in the ALDL connector and flashing the codes on the SES light. See Shoebox's scan procedure and codes list:

http://shbox.com/1/dlc2.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Note that oyu have to look over to the column on the far right side of the code list, because some of the 93 codes are different than the 94/95 codes.

You indicate you want 400HP. Is that at the flywheel or at the rear wheels? To achieve 400 rwHP through the A4 tranny, you are going to be making 475-500 HP at the flywheel. That would require a substantial number of supporting modifications.
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381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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#4 User is offline   Speedingbandit 

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 06:56 PM

Yes 400rwhp is what I wana go for. I'm wondering if a 383 rebuild kit will be the way to go on the lower end or if my stock low end rebuilt will handle that. Ive been looking into the head, intake and cam work that lloyd elliot does with stock app. plus I will add headers, tb, edelbrock intake if needed, and a new exaust system as well. I'm wanting the best bang for buck in this rebuild. Ive looked at a few engines on e-bay like the 383 complete engines and I guess I can have the same done to mine correct?? Just trying to figure out which directio to go. Also who could I use to program the comp when all this is done? that another issue.

I'm thinking of changing the gear to 323's also before the rebuild and will I need a tune for this with my sig. mods or a chip?? Whats my best option for this? Also with my mileage will a new opti cap and rotor kit and plugs an wires be worth doing? Or should I just wait till the rebuild to do all that? I'm just wanting to fire it back up for now like it ran at 80k mi. lol. Thanx
95 Formula. Mods are K&N fipk and Flowmaster muffler. Recently had the tranny rebuilt and my engine has 150k mi. and still strong. Just about everyone in my family are Trans Am freaks from classics to LS1..lol. Thanx.
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#5 User is offline   Injuneer 

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  • Engine: 381ci LT1 stroker
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Posted 23 November 2008 - 10:32 AM

View PostSpeedingbandit, on Nov 22 2008, 09:56 PM, said:

Yes 400rwhp is what I wana go for. I'm wondering if a 383 rebuild kit will be the way to go on the lower end or if my stock low end rebuilt will handle that.


You can make 400HP at the rear wheels with a 355 or a 383. Stock crank and rods will handle the 355 build. You would just need new pistons. Hypereutectics or cast will work at that HP level. You don't need anything exotic. For the 383, you need a new crank, and a forged crank, even a lower cost one, is a good idea.

Quote

Ive been looking into the head, intake and cam work that lloyd elliot does with stock app. plus I will add headers, tb, edelbrock intake if needed, and a new exaust system as well. I'm wanting the best bang for buck in this rebuild.

Everything you said makes sense, except the Edelbrock intake. It is no better than a stock LT1 intake. Send yours to Lloyd Elliott or AI so it can be matched to the head porting.

Quote

Ive looked at a few engines on e-bay like the 383 complete engines and I guess I can have the same done to mine correct?? Just trying to figure out which directio to go.

You have three choices.....

1. Buy all the parts and rebuild it yourself. You still need a shop to tank the block, align bore the mains, bore the cylinders, check the deck for squareness, balance the rotating assembly, etc. Sometimes the shop proefers to supply the parts. If they want to do that, it puts the responsibility on them for the entire package, not just the work they did.

2. Buy a "short block".... prepped block with the rotating assembly - crank, rods and pistons installed. You supply the cam, heads, intake, Opti, exhaust, etc.

Example (I am not endorsing Golen, just showing you what a short block package is). But Golen does use Lloyd Elliott for heads.

http://www.golenengi...ort_blocks.html

3. Buy a complete engine.

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Also who could I use to program the comp when all this is done? that another issue.


Two possibilities for "mail order" tunes are:

http://www.madz28.com/
http://www.pcmforless.com/

That will get you 90% of the way to top performance. If you have access to a shop with a dyno and LT1 tuning software, you can have them fine tune it.

Quote

I'm thinking of changing the gear to 323's also before the rebuild and will I need a tune for this with my sig. mods or a chip?? Whats my best option for this?

No chip in your 95. The gear change programming would be part of the mail order tune. You might want to consider 3.73's and a high stall converter for the trans. Really wakes an A4 up. If you do the gear change before the engine is built, one of the tuners I linked above will usually do a low cost tune for the gears, than give you an update for the rebuilt engine at a reduced cost later.

Quote

Also with my mileage will a new opti cap and rotor kit and plugs an wires be worth doing? Or should I just wait till the rebuild to do all that? I'm just wanting to fire it back up for now like it ran at 80k mi. lol. Thanx

With that many miles, you need new plugs, new wires and a COMPLETE new Opti. The cap and rotor is only 1/2 of the unit. The back 1/2 contains the bearing and the optical sensor, both of which deteriorate with age. Use only an OEM AC/Delco (now "Delphi") Opti.
1994 FIREBIRD FORMULA

FRED

Posted Image

381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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