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2nd Gen - Engine Immobilizer Switch


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13 replies to this topic

#1 bowlingbrad

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 11:13 AM

Hello,

I know there are 1,000,000 ways to put a kill switch in our vehicles but I've chosen this method and was hoping that I could get some verification/input from the Nation.

 

I've chosen to go with a grounded switch relay option per the attached bosch diagram.  I'm assuming that since my 1978 TA has a stock HEI setup, the wires to/from the coil would simply be the wires to/from the HEI.  If anyone has anything to add/change, I would appreciate it.  I just don't want to blow anything up because I chose the incorrect wires.  Wire colors, etc. would get me going in the right direction.  I will be using my wiring diagram as a starting point for clarification as well.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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#2 Formula71

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 11:24 AM

Message me. I'm interested in how/where you are putting your hidden switch.




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#3 bowlingbrad

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 12:02 PM

Message me. I'm interested in how/where you are putting your hidden switch.

Joke, right?



#4 Formula71

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 12:05 PM

well, I didn't want you to post it here for the world to see. But I was looking for ideas myself.




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#5 bowlingbrad

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 12:52 PM

I'm not 100 per cent sure yet but I like a couple of the youtube videos that show very different ways.  I even saw one where you turn the key and press the horn. 



#6 bowlingbrad

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 08:41 AM

Here is my location assumption.  Please see the attached image.  I'm having trouble applying this option to the HEI.

 

1. Can I just splice the 30 - 87a terminals into the wire to the HEI?

2. What wire do I use to the 86 terminal?

3. The only thing I have matching the Bosch is the hidden switch from the 85 terminal to ground. ;)

 

I think I need to re-engineer this so the control side of the relay closes the link to the HEI wire.

 

:HmmHmm:

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Edited by bowlingbrad, 09 May 2017 - 08:53 AM.


#7 bowlingbrad

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 01:06 PM

I think I got it.

 

1. Splice terminal 86 into accessory power from ignition switch.

2. Place hidden kill switch between terminal 85 and ground.

3. Intercept wire to HEI between terminals 87 and 30.

 

When ignition is turned on and the hidden switch is closed the relay will be triggered.

When relay is triggered, the HEI gets power enabling car to start.

 

Is using 40Amp relay enough?

 

Thoughts?

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Edited by bowlingbrad, 09 May 2017 - 01:07 PM.


#8 JoePeek

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 01:39 AM

Why use the relay? That is one way of doing it for sure, but you still have to have a hidden switch somewhere. That being said, why not just put a good quality, higher amp rated switch in series with the wire going to the coil? A much easier install, and you don't have to worry about the relay going bad and leaving you stranded. I know the ground path on the low side of the relay is less load on the switch, but a high rated direct switch would be more robust and reliable, less parts.


Edited by JoePeek, 11 May 2017 - 01:40 AM.


#9 bowlingbrad

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 06:41 AM

Why use the relay? That is one way of doing it for sure, but you still have to have a hidden switch somewhere. That being said, why not just put a good quality, higher amp rated switch in series with the wire going to the coil? A much easier install, and you don't have to worry about the relay going bad and leaving you stranded. I know the ground path on the low side of the relay is less load on the switch, but a high rated direct switch would be more robust and reliable, less parts.

 

Less parts/less work....I'm game with that!  Can you suggest a switch that may work?

 

Is this one good enough? 

https://www.amazon.c...Y0O/ref=sr_1_14


Edited by bowlingbrad, 11 May 2017 - 06:45 AM.


#10 bowlingbrad

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:57 PM

I got too scared to snip some wires so I'm putting it off for a few weeks.  I don't NEED this right away so I'll just wait until a buddy of mine has time to walk me through it.



#11 bowlingbrad

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Posted 2 weeks ago

I have a goofy idea.  Has anyone done a SPDT switch described below:

 

Center (OFF) - car won't start

Load1 (ON) - car won't start but turning key HONKS horn

Load2 (ON) - car starts like normal

 

Anyone willing to do a little wiring diagram?



#12 sea dog

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Posted 2 weeks ago

Why don't you just find the wire that goes from start position of electrical part of ignition switch. Cut the wire and install your switch there. 

 

When switch is on, starter will turn engine over. When switch is off, starter will be disabled. No one can start car.

 

The wire from start position of ign sw should be purple or purple/white.

 

As an alternate suggestion, you could find the neutral start switch for the shifter on the auto trans. Cut the single purple wire and wire in your switch there. It will do the same thing as method above.

 

If cutting wires makes you nervous, then pull small solenoid wire off of starter.  Place the wires of your switch, 1 to the starter solenoid connection. 1 to the solenoid wire you removed.  Run switch wires through firewall. Put switch under dash somewhere.

 

Again you cut the power to the starter. With no starter action, no running engine.

 

Unfortunately, for those with manual transmission, cutting the starter won't stop a thief.


Edited by sea dog, 2 weeks ago.


#13 bowlingbrad

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Posted 2 weeks ago

Thanks so much Robert!  I'll poke around under my dash again and make sure I pick the right wire!



#14 sea dog

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Posted A week ago

But, here's the thing about the switch no matter what is immobilizes or where you hide it.

 

A really determined thief will get into your engine compartment. He'll wire the coil and distributor direct to the battery for ignition, if you've killed ignition power.

 

Or he would wire starter solenoid direct to battery to get starter to work. Or do both.

 

So any switch you install would stop most thieves, but the gone in 60 second type ones, won't even be fazed by it.


Edited by sea dog, A week ago.





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