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95 LT1 Crank but no start Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Demps 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 11:47 AM

I have a 95 bird with the 350 lt1 in it. It'll crank 1000 times but will not budge enough to start. I have recently changed the fuel system from the sending unit, to the regulator by the motor. I have done the spark plugs, th wires, and the coil pack. still nothing. When I go to crank it over, I noticed that the oil gauge doesn't budge. I was told to change the oil pressure switch. I did that, and still nothing.

I'm questioning if the distributor or the whole computer is bad? Maybe the oil pump? any suggestions?
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#2 User is offline   Cody Andrews 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 12:07 PM

View PostDemps, on 14 June 2012 - 11:47 AM, said:

I have a 95 bird with the 350 lt1 in it. It'll crank 1000 times but will not budge enough to start. I have recently changed the fuel system from the sending unit, to the regulator by the motor. I have done the spark plugs, th wires, and the coil pack. still nothing. When I go to crank it over, I noticed that the oil gauge doesn't budge. I was told to change the oil pressure switch. I did that, and still nothing.

I'm questioning if the distributor or the whole computer is bad? Maybe the oil pump? any suggestions?



You say it cranks? When you turn the key apply the gas. Does the engine stay on? If that is the case, my guess is TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) or IAC (Idle Air control). Don't try and shift when you do this, just stay in park or neutral.
"There is no replacement for displacement."

"The difference between a man and a boy is four cylinders."

"My 2 liter pop bottle has more displacement than your Honda."



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#3 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:49 PM

Before replacing the fuel system, did you check the fuel pressure? Have you checked the pressure since replacing it? What were the results? Have you tested the fuel pump using the prime connector near the PCM?

Have you scanned it for codes?

Have you checked for spark at the coil? ..... at the plugs? Have you checked the IC module?
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#4 User is offline   Demps 

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:23 AM

I have complete spark everywhere. I'm not sure about the fuel pressure, but I do know that it gets fuel to the motor. It cranks and cranks but still no start. The oil pressure gauge doesn't get past a quarter of the whole gauge though. I've bypassed the security so I know the car isn't locked out. I've replaced just about everything I can think of to cause this problem except the computer and distributor. Do you think that either of these would get my car started?
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#5 User is offline   Digital 

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:34 AM

This might be a stupid question, but does it have enough battery juice ? Because sometimes my car will crank but not start if the battery is weak.
Izzy : "when I was working on the shitty body work I did... she [wife] asked..."why don't you touch me like that"? LMAO"
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#6 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:57 AM

View PostDemps, on 22 June 2012 - 08:23 AM, said:

I have complete spark everywhere. I'm not sure about the fuel pressure, but I do know that it gets fuel to the motor.


If you want to solve the problem, you have to answer the questions that were asked.

DID YOU TEST THE FUEL PRESSURE? The fact that "it gets fuel to the motor" does not mean that you have adequate pressure, or that the PCM is continuing to run the fuel pump after the system primes for 2 seconds and then shuts down. It isn't unusual to have a problem with a brand new fuel pump, due to a loose or punctured fuel hose internal to the tank.

DID YOU SCAN IT FOR CODES? A problem with the optical cam position sensor in the Optispark distributor will set codes, will prevent the engine from starting (when DTC 16 sets for the cam position sensor, the PCM shuts down the fuel system), and does not turn on the SES light. The only way to know you have this problem is to scan it for codes.

So the answer to your question:

Quote

I've replaced just about everything I can think of to cause this problem except the computer and distributor. Do you think that either of these would get my car started?


While both the distributor and the PCM can prevent the engnie from starting, you should not replace those parts without scanning it for codes.

Quote

It cranks and cranks but still no start. The oil pressure gauge doesn't get past a quarter of the whole gauge though.


When the starter turns the engine, it's only spinning at a few hundred RPM. Since the oil pump is a positive displacement pump, oil pressure is roughly proportional to RPM. It is normal for the pressure to be low at the low cranking RPM.

You can perform diagnostics, or you can continue to throw parts at it, hoping you get lucky.
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#7 User is offline   juggernaut 

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 07:54 PM

Fred just blew your mind. You NEED to diagnose it. Don't throw money at it and hope it fixes it
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#8 User is offline   96TA 

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 04:13 PM

This is what my 96 Trans Am did when the rotor failed inside the distributor. In order to get car to even stumble like that, I had to pump the heck out of the gas.

http://youtu.be/QAbldniVJGo

This post has been edited by 96TA: 02 July 2012 - 04:15 PM

Albert
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