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Security light. Rate Topic: -----

#21 User is offline   Boyer 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 08:23 AM

The new key looks alot better than the old one. The resistor is poking out much more.

I asked the guy to look at my old key and see if it could cause it not to start sometimes. He said most likely not, it's a wire in the lock cylinder that's worn. It'll sooner or later not start at all.

If that happens, i'm bypassing it lol but for now the new one is working.
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#22 User is online   305 Formula 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:26 AM

Yeah, eventually the wires break and then you have to replace the lock cylinder. My dad had to put a few in my grandmothers caddy. I almost put one in my bird, but when I pulled the panel under the dash down the plug literally fell apart and became disconnected. I gave it a shot of WD40, plugged it back in and wrapped it in some electrical tape. So far its held up, which makes me happy considering the new lock cylinder was gonna cost me 50 bucks.
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#23 User is offline   nsamok6620 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:07 AM

I have this problem too. I'll do the bypass sooner or later. But just for the record, if its not starting, take the key out and wait three minutes for the light to turn off then try again.
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#24 User is offline   WiCK3D_SiX  

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:48 AM

View Post1993TransAm, on 03 February 2012 - 03:56 AM, said:

Even during a malfunction, the PASS-Key II system will not cause the engine to stop running. It simply doesn't work that way or have the capability to do that. The decoder module sends a pulse width modulated signal to the ECM/PCM enabling the injectors to begin pulsing. The system prevents unauthorized starting of the vehicle only.


It does when the wires almost gone, and finally snaps over a bump. I spliced the wire. Re-started the car, and drove away. The passlock may not have killed the car (dealer said it was) but its what initially prevented me from starting it again. Only 1 strand was still connected from the wire, creating a very weak signal.
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#25 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:45 PM

As long as the resistor in the new key matches the resistor in the old key, there is no programming.
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#26 User is offline   joesperformance 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:36 PM

right, idk y i said program.... i knew they didnt need to program, since its just a resistor..... but its been clerified and glad u got a new key made for cheap....
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#27 User is offline   brarei200 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:37 PM

View Post1993TransAm, on 03 February 2012 - 07:22 AM, said:

So a blank costs $12.95, plus shipping I'm sure, then you have to pay someone to cut it unless you can do it yourself.

I paid $25 for mine from the dealership, cut and out the door. It could be the cheapest fix for you and you may save yourself cutting wires and bypassing stuff. I'm not a fan of such things unless absolutely necessary.


Don't waste your money on a key.... my key looked worned, went to GM and got a new key for $25 and it still didn't work. I bought a bypass off of Joe (ebay sells them too) and it fixed the problem for 4 months, then the light came back on once, and never again since.
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#28 User is offline   Boyer 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:21 PM

So far so good with the new key, hopefully it stays that way.
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#29 User is offline   Boyer 

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:10 AM

Security locked me out today. Started it up and it died within seconds. tried again to the same outcome. Took the key out and back in and no starter at all. Took the key out , waited 3 minuted and it went off and it started right back up, no light on at all.

COuld me opening the hatch with my remote while the doors are locked cause it to freak out?
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#30 User is offline   djfirebird93 

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:22 PM

sounds possible
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#31 User is offline   Boyer 

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:32 PM

Just wanted to update this, haven't had any issues since the last post. Lets hope it stays this way!
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#32 User is offline   Boyer 

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Posted 4 weeks ago

Update again. I think the new key fixed it!
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#33 User is offline   sea dog 

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Posted 3 weeks ago

Just in case, so you know there's another option, for those that putting a new resistor in the wires doesn't solve the problem you can buy a bypass that sends the 50 hertz signal, or 30 hertz signal for a 93 or older, to the pcm so the fuel injectors will be enabled. This will also require a simple bypass of the starter lock out. Get at www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/ . Another alternative would be to program vats out of the pcm. Yes I know the car will have no security, but lets be realistic the newest 4th gen is 10 years old and the oldest are 19. Not exactly a prime target unless you have a cherry ss or ws6. Then you'd probably have a better security system anyway.

This post has been edited by sea dog: 3 weeks ago

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