[Boyer]

Well, it was gone for over a month, now it's back.

This morning, i was leaving for school, used my factory remote to unlock the doors, put the key in the ignition, and nothing except for the security light. Didnt have time to deal with it so i took another car.

Came back around 5 hours later, started right up, no light what so ever.

Drove to work 3 hours later, halfway to work the light came back on, got to work, turned it off and back on. Started fine, but the light was on still.

Left work, light was still on but went off about 1 minute after i started it. Stopped at a grocery store, locked my car with my remote. Went in for about 10 minutes, un locked it with my remote and same situation as this morning.

This time i waited for 10 minutes with the key in the on position, hoping the light would go off, but it never did.

So i got out, locked my door with the switch on the door, opened and unlocked the door with my key and the light went off. Started it up light went off immediately. Drove it home, no light. Got home and turned it off and back on worked normally.

I did have a DTC stored in history. I'm 90% sure it was P1629, which has to do with the VATS system.

I'm just curious as to what i should check/do next?

[Boyer]

I just measured my key, im getting 1123 Ohms, which is close to the #5 key. @ 1130 OHMS

How much leeway do i have with the key?

Also, just went out to start the car. Started perfectly..

This post has been edited by Boyer: 02 February 2012 - 08:13 PM

[djfirebird93]

Sounds like the Theft Deterrent is going bad. Do the bypass.

[Boyer]

Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1755wt_1271

I can hear the fuel pump prime when turning the key to the on position.

I know i can uses resistors to make it work as well, thats probably what i would do.

This post has been edited by Boyer: 02 February 2012 - 08:35 PM

[restoring90formula]

Web content never ceases to amaze me. I did not know they made these. I had to make my own recently (I was so proud how it came out). I would like to suggest that it may not be a good idea to advertise your VATS code on a website that can be viewed by the whole world. I probably shouldn't even be saying that I have mine by-passed.

[WiCK3D_SiX]

Typically its damaged or frayed wires. Mine did that for a while, then one day died on me while driving.

[1993TransAm]

Even during a malfunction, the PASS-Key II system will not cause the engine to stop running. It simply doesn't work that way or have the capability to do that. The decoder module sends a pulse width modulated signal to the ECM/PCM enabling the injectors to begin pulsing. The system prevents unauthorized starting of the vehicle only.

[Boyer]

Lets hope it's a frayed wire that grounds itself off randomly..

[1993TransAm]

Ryan, how about your ignition key? Is it old or worn? The little fin-shaped terminals on the resistor pellets wear down over time. I had a similar issue with my car. I looked at the key and the pellet terminals were badly worn, causing intermittent poor resistance readings. I had a new key made and I've never had the problem occur again.

[joesperformance]

Boyer, on 02 February 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:

I just measured my key, im getting 1123 Ohms, which is close to the #5 key. @ 1130 OHMS

How much leeway do i have with the key?

Also, just went out to start the car. Started perfectly..

if ur goin to make a bypass, u have a 2% leway with the resistors, so u need between 1108 and 1152, but closer u can get to the 1130 the better..... there's a write-up in the How-To section

[GaryDoug]

Regardless of the actual measurement of the resistors you choose, I would try to get 1% (or better) resistors, like metal-film ones. The measured resistance value at room temperature is only half the story. Over temperature changes, 5% resistors will shift in value up to the 5% spec. So even if the resistor(s) measures exactly what you want at room temperature, it won't stay that way when it gets very cold or warm. The lower the tolerance value, the less the shift.

The prior poster is correct about this not affecting the car unless it is at start time. When the lamp comes on during driving, it is just a warning that there is a fault somewhere, and as long as the light stays on it will not prevent you from starting the car (nor will it be protected from theft). Once the light goes off, you are fair game for the non-start condition again. What happened at the grocery store is exactly what happens when the fault clears and you are then vulnerable again.

This post has been edited by GaryDoug: 03 February 2012 - 07:13 AM

[Boyer]

The key doesn't look too bad, i can barely see the tips of the metal resistor poking out when i look at it from above.

I went out to take it for a drive this morning to warm up the brakes, started fine, no light. Changed the brakes, and took it for a drive again, and no light stared fine.


Is our key the double sided 'chip' or single? I assume double, but i can't find the blank that looks the exact same ANYWHERE on the internet.

[1993TransAm]

It is a double-sided chip. The ignition cylinder reads the resistance across the chip. :)

[Boyer]

http://www.amazon.co...+double&x=0&y=0

Thats the only ones i see for a double sided key. lol

I REALLY dont wanna go to the dealership for this lol

there is this one

http://www.carlocksa...tomobile/Detail

But it doesnt specify if it is a double or single

This post has been edited by Boyer: 03 February 2012 - 07:22 AM

[1993TransAm]

So a blank costs $12.95, plus shipping I'm sure, then you have to pay someone to cut it unless you can do it yourself.

I paid $25 for mine from the dealership, cut and out the door. It could be the cheapest fix for you and you may save yourself cutting wires and bypassing stuff. I'm not a fan of such things unless absolutely necessary.

[Boyer]

1993TransAm, on 03 February 2012 - 07:22 AM, said:

So a blank costs $12.95, plus shipping I'm sure, then you have to pay someone to cut it unless you can do it yourself.

I paid $25 for mine from the dealership, cut and out the door. It could be the cheapest fix for you and you may save yourself cutting wires and bypassing stuff. I'm not a fan of such things unless absolutely necessary.

Oh wow i was thinking $100++ for the key!

Ill try to stop by there today before work!

[1993TransAm]

I hope it works for you. At worst you have a spare ignition key for the car.

[joesperformance]

Boyer, on 03 February 2012 - 07:24 AM, said:

Oh wow i was thinking $100++ for the key!

Ill try to stop by there today before work!

it really shouldnt cost much.... since u have ur original key and stuff, they're just coping ur original key, then they'll program the new key to match ur car and done..... it costs more when someone has to come to ur house and figure the cut for ur key and stuff, thats where the bigger money comes into play..... call dealership near u and ask them how much to make a copy of ur key and program it to ur car.....

[305 Formula]

There is no 'programing' with these keys, if you have the resistor chip like my 3rd gen the dealer has blanks for each resistance value, there are 13 different resistances. They figure out which blank you need then just cut the key. I would just go to a dealer, it will be faster than trying to order a blank on the web & trying to find someone to cut it.


EDIT: Ryan, I just realized your cars a 96 so I'm not sure if anything I said applies. I only have experience with the OBD-1 VATS system that is on my 90 bird and was on my grandmothers 93 caddy. Seeing as how everyone says its still a resistor, I would imagine its the same but I'm not sure.

This post has been edited by 305 Formula: 03 February 2012 - 08:10 AM

[Boyer]

At the dealer now. 23 bucks :-) getting cut now