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2000 Trans Am Rear Axle Bearing replacement Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   2000transam 

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:54 PM

Is it complicated to replace the rear axle bearing (ABS/ASR) on a 2000 Pontiac Trans Am (Automatic Transmission)?
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#2 User is offline   96TA 

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:37 PM

I just got done taking my rear end apart for some wheel studs. I wouldnt say its complicated. It probaly the easiest part of the drivetrain to take apart. I have done about 5 to 10 rear ends. The worst part of it all is the smell of the rear axel fluid itself :sick0021: :sick0021: . It can be done but what you need to watch out for is why did the bearing fail? Is the housing still good? What about the seal, will an oversize seal or bearing be needed? Just a few questions before you tear into it and then your stuck.

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96 TRANS AM - SLP ceramic coated shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust, SLP intake going in the bumper under the driverside light, Short throw shifter, Honeycomb tailights, Corvette styled 5 spoke rims with 315/35/17 Sumitomo rears 245/45/17 Fuzion HTI front tires, Drilled and slotted rotors front and rear, Accel optispark, Skip-shift eliminator, more to come...

1975 Trans Am SOLD -& MISSED -- THE 75 MOD LIST - C.E. SUBFRAME CONNECTORS, EIBACH LOWERING SPRINGS FRONT, 3 WAY ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS ALL AROUND, ENERGY SUSPENSION FROM FRONT TO BACK, FLOWMASTER SUPPER 44 x2, LONG TUBE HEADERS, JEGS 3" EXHAUST PIPES, RUSSLES BRAIDED BRAKE HOSES FRONT AND BACK, TCI STREET FIGHTER 400 TRANNY WITH 2200 STALL CONVERTER, NEW WIRING, AND MORE TO COME

THE 95 TRANS AM SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
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#3 User is offline   2000transam 

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 03:36 PM

It started making a noise about 1 year ago and has not really gotten any louder but when I jack up the car I can move the wheel up and down about 1/4".

Someone told me I should just go ahead and invest in an axle kit because the shaft may be worn down.

I am a "rookie" but I am up to the challenge. I love working on things and this does not seem too complicated but I may not know enough to finish the job if needed.

Do I have to remove a "c" ring inside the gear housing to remove the shaft and if so is it hard to do? I was also told it may be more complicated due to the TCS. Is this true?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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#4 User is offline   djfirebird93 

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 06:02 PM

Yes, the TCS works off of sensors that are back in there. You will need to be very careful when working with rear ends with traction control.
My bird is a working progress. New Marshall engine-forged pistons, upgraded rockers and stronger rods/bearings. Rebuilt transmission. New LSD. I wish money grew on trees :)
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#5 User is offline   96TA 

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 05:30 AM

Actually the traction control doesn't have much involvment unless you a removing the wheel studs, which if you have any that are broken or stripped this is the time to do it.
In a nutshell here's what you do
Remove the diff cover
Make sure you have a pan to catch the fluid
Remove the 2 15mm caliper bracket bolts on both sides for the brakes or the side in question
Slide the caliper and braket off as a unit and remove the rotor
Spin the axel till you see a 5/16 bolt, it a little guy
Remove that bolt
spin the axel 180 degrees to the other side of the silver pin and push it in about 1/2 inch
Rotate it back to the original position and pull the pin the rest of the way out
Push the axel in, it will now go in about 1/8 inch
Use a magnet to grab the C clip for one or both axels
Slide the axel out
Remove the seal, make sure to use a new one and its a good idea to replace both side while your in there.
The bearing should slide right out if I am not mistaken.. not sur I did not have to do this on any car I've owned yet.
On the install if you have to remove the main cap for the diff the torque is 55 ftlbs on the reinstall. When you put the diff cover back on use a 1/8 thick bead of silicone to seal it, the gasket will leak , and tighten in a cross pattern evenly, not sure of the torqu spec on those but just good and tight. Fill till it comes out of the hole and your done. Let me know if you need some more info. Good luck
Albert
Treasure Coast, FL
Remember there is always someone who needs the parts you send to the junkyard
Membership is what helps sites like ours succeed, SIGN UP TODAY!!
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Posted Image
96 TRANS AM - SLP ceramic coated shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust, SLP intake going in the bumper under the driverside light, Short throw shifter, Honeycomb tailights, Corvette styled 5 spoke rims with 315/35/17 Sumitomo rears 245/45/17 Fuzion HTI front tires, Drilled and slotted rotors front and rear, Accel optispark, Skip-shift eliminator, more to come...

1975 Trans Am SOLD -& MISSED -- THE 75 MOD LIST - C.E. SUBFRAME CONNECTORS, EIBACH LOWERING SPRINGS FRONT, 3 WAY ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS ALL AROUND, ENERGY SUSPENSION FROM FRONT TO BACK, FLOWMASTER SUPPER 44 x2, LONG TUBE HEADERS, JEGS 3" EXHAUST PIPES, RUSSLES BRAIDED BRAKE HOSES FRONT AND BACK, TCI STREET FIGHTER 400 TRANNY WITH 2200 STALL CONVERTER, NEW WIRING, AND MORE TO COME

THE 95 TRANS AM SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
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#6 User is offline   2000transam 

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  • Year: 2000
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  • Model: Trans Am
  • Engine: 5.7
  • Transmission: Auto

Posted 29 September 2011 - 05:36 PM

Thanks for the step-by-step! I plan on trying this weekend. Will let you know how it turns out.
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