I have a side mount battery post mount in in 87 TA and I hate it. Is there a way to change it to a top mount post style? What is involved?
Thanks
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Changing battery side mount post to top mount?
#2
Posted 25 January 2011 - 05:21 AM
First, you've gotta make sure there is clearance for a top post battery. Most battery stores want to look up and sell you the battery closest to what the factory put in. But you can basically use any battery that fits (smaller is better) that has the same cold cranking amps rating.
The side posts actually resist corrosion better as the moisture that collects on top post batteries contributes to its formation. I'm guessing you find it a hassle to disconnect and reconnect the side posts in limited spaces. There is a 5/16" ratchet tool (box wrench style) that makes quick work of things. I use one at indoor car shows that require a battery disconnect to satisfy the Fire Marshal. It has a thick rubber coating on the handle to prevent arching.
http://www.tooltopia...gn=shopzilla_r1
http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/KAS/KASB10A.jpg
However, it you insist on top posts, the best thing is to replace your cables. There are inexpensive adaptors to do the conversion, but they leave a great deal of exposed metal (corrosion again) and may require some re-routing of the cables if they don't reach.
http://www.ronshomea....htm?Click=7805
The side posts actually resist corrosion better as the moisture that collects on top post batteries contributes to its formation. I'm guessing you find it a hassle to disconnect and reconnect the side posts in limited spaces. There is a 5/16" ratchet tool (box wrench style) that makes quick work of things. I use one at indoor car shows that require a battery disconnect to satisfy the Fire Marshal. It has a thick rubber coating on the handle to prevent arching.
http://www.tooltopia...gn=shopzilla_r1
http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/KAS/KASB10A.jpg
However, it you insist on top posts, the best thing is to replace your cables. There are inexpensive adaptors to do the conversion, but they leave a great deal of exposed metal (corrosion again) and may require some re-routing of the cables if they don't reach.
http://www.ronshomea....htm?Click=7805

Rest In Peace, Pete, a.k.a. "Brother Rat" and Jay, our Firebird Brother!
Y'all two keep each other out of trouble up there, okay?
#3
Posted 25 January 2011 - 05:30 AM
TransAmer99, on 25 January 2011 - 05:21 AM, said:
First, you've gotta make sure there is clearance for a top post battery. Most battery stores want to look up and sell you the battery closest to what the factory put in. But you can basically use any battery that fits (smaller is better) that has the same cold cranking amps rating.
The side posts actually resist corrosion better as the moisture that collects on top post batteries contributes to its formation. I'm guessing you find it a hassle to disconnect and reconnect the side posts in limited spaces. There is a 5/16" ratchet tool (box wrench style) that makes quick work of things. I use one at indoor car shows that require a battery disconnect to satisfy the Fire Marshal. It has a thick rubber coating on the handle to prevent arching.
http://www.tooltopia...gn=shopzilla_r1
http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/KAS/KASB10A.jpg
However, it you insist on top posts, the best thing is to replace your cables. There are inexpensive adaptors to do the conversion, but they leave a great deal of exposed metal (corrosion again) and may require some re-routing of the cables if they don't reach.
http://www.ronshomea....htm?Click=7805
The side posts actually resist corrosion better as the moisture that collects on top post batteries contributes to its formation. I'm guessing you find it a hassle to disconnect and reconnect the side posts in limited spaces. There is a 5/16" ratchet tool (box wrench style) that makes quick work of things. I use one at indoor car shows that require a battery disconnect to satisfy the Fire Marshal. It has a thick rubber coating on the handle to prevent arching.
http://www.tooltopia...gn=shopzilla_r1
http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/KAS/KASB10A.jpg
However, it you insist on top posts, the best thing is to replace your cables. There are inexpensive adaptors to do the conversion, but they leave a great deal of exposed metal (corrosion again) and may require some re-routing of the cables if they don't reach.
http://www.ronshomea....htm?Click=7805
You can also convert the side screw terminals to regular post's, they sell a screw on adapter to go on your battery.. You will still need to change the ends of the cables if you do so.. There is a size difference in the ends as well.. Positive posts are larger, so you have to buy a - neg and a +pos terminal clamp. When changing or doing maint. on batteries always disconnect the -neg terminal 1st then the pos. and re-install +pos 1st then -neg. If you find you do have clearance for a top post Battery, and still want to make that swap, you may need longer cables, keep that in mind.. But please remember to always disconnect the NEG 1st..
#4
Posted 25 January 2011 - 07:20 AM
I have a lightweight/compact Braille battery in my 4th Gen, and it came with top post terminals, and adapters so I could attach my side terminal connections without changing them.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/Braille.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/Braille.jpg
1994 FIREBIRD FORMULA
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
NO PHOTOS - MY WEBSITE IS BEING MOVED TO ANOTHER SERVER - SORRY FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
NO PHOTOS - MY WEBSITE IS BEING MOVED TO ANOTHER SERVER - SORRY FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE
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