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spark plugs - 2000 Firebird 3.8L Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 12:32 PM

im gettin some spark plugs for my 3.8 firebird i found some v-power ones, NGk irdium, and couple more which ones do yal prefer?
i also need to know which way is the easiest to the old ones out under neath the car or just standing over it?
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#2 User is offline   FBN Firebird Nation 

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 12:47 PM

I know many folks love the NGK plugs.
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#3 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 01:21 PM

View PostBob, on 13 December 2010 - 12:47 PM, said:

I know many folks love the NGK plugs.



u know which NGK are the best?
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#4 User is offline   bburke88 

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 01:37 PM

I personally have Bosch Platium plugs, but i've heard great things about the NGK V-power and their platinum and iridium plugs.

I'm not familiar with the 4th gens, so i cant comment on the easiest way to remove them..

View Postbird21, on 13 December 2010 - 01:21 PM, said:

u know which NGK are the best?




For a v6, you probably wouldnt need the iridium plugs.. i'd get the platinums.
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#5 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 01:42 PM

alright thanks bro.
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#6 User is offline   Ivan 

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 04:12 AM

I'm using NGK Iridium, Its OK.
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Posted 14 December 2010 - 04:33 AM

How you get the plugs out (especially the ones to the rear) depends on how patient you are and what tools you have available. I have used a T-handled, purpose-built spark plug wrench with a dual swivel and had pretty good luck with it. No telling where it came from - it was in the bottom of my dad's toolbox when I inherited his stuff over 30 years ago. It may even be custom-built for all I know. Just lucky that it fits LadyHawk's plugs. Doesn't help with Gray Ghost, however, the plug socket is too small. But if the plug is overtightened, the T-handle doesn't give you a whole lot of leverage, so it's a tossup.

Others have had good results by jacking the front, using jackstands and removing the wheels. Tou get a little extra clearance for using extensions and universals on a socket wrench. DON'T EVER CRAWL UNDER A CAR THAT ISN'T SECURELY SUPPORTED ON JACKSTANDS weight-rated for the job!

As for the plugs themselves, most of the advertising is hocus-pocus. A hotter plug will compensate for some other issues like faulty timing or oil leakage, but for real performance gains, you need to upgrade the wires and ingition system with an MSD multiple spark system or similar. Doing that with computerized ECM's can cause additional headaches.
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#8 User is offline   73Birdman 

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 05:03 AM

Hey remember Split Fires ? with there "Cutting Edge Split Technology"http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/bs.gif. I hope you are just doing maintenance on your car and not looking for performance gains, cuz like Jim said plugs alone wont cut it.

View PostTransAmer99, on 14 December 2010 - 04:33 AM, said:

How you get the plugs out (especially the ones to the rear) depends on how patient you are and what tools you have available. I have used a T-handled, purpose-built spark plug wrench with a dual swivel and had pretty good luck with it. No telling where it came from - it was in the bottom of my dad's toolbox when I inherited his stuff over 30 years ago. It may even be custom-built for all I know. Just lucky that it fits LadyHawk's plugs. Doesn't help with Gray Ghost, however, the plug socket is too small. But if the plug is overtightened, the T-handle doesn't give you a whole lot of leverage, so it's a tossup.

Others have had good results by jacking the front, using jackstands and removing the wheels. Tou get a little extra clearance for using extensions and universals on a socket wrench. DON'T EVER CRAWL UNDER A CAR THAT ISN'T SECURELY SUPPORTED ON JACKSTANDS weight-rated for the job!

As for the plugs themselves, most of the advertising is hocus-pocus. A hotter plug will compensate for some other issues like faulty timing or oil leakage, but for real performance gains, you need to upgrade the wires and ingition system with an MSD multiple spark system or similar. Doing that with computerized ECM's can cause additional headaches.

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#9 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 05:42 AM

I've never used the NGK Iridium plugs, but on other forums where I am active, the feedback is very good. They should provide the same long life as the platinum plugs. I believe GM went to NGK plugs in certain applications. I bought my 2001 Silverado with 4.8L LSx style V8 with low miles, and it had NGK platinum plugs in it. The iridium design appears to be an improvement over the platinum tipped plugs.
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#10 User is offline   WHITE-68 

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 05:58 AM

NGK are the best hands down... Use the iridium ones you'll be happy! I went through several brands of plugs when I used to race dirt oval tracks and I can speak from experience no other plug is better..

A close 2nd place would be bosch plugs..

This post has been edited by WHITE-68: 14 December 2010 - 05:59 AM

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#11 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 02:18 AM

thanks guys for the info and feedback. i just bought some NGk platium ones you get 6 for 28.00$ on ebay free shiping. I just order them so ill give you guys some more info once i install them.
in for the installation all i ahve is a extension, rachet, and spark plug socket. i use to have a swivel but i lost it lol probaly have to buy another one.
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#12 User is offline   96firephoenix 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 07:36 AM

for the v-6 don't even think about trying to get the back pair from the top. those have to be gotten from below.
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#13 User is offline   88gtman 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 03:59 PM

I have always used plain old Autolite resistor plugs and have no trouble with. I have tried the platinum plugs and found no difference.

This post has been edited by 88gtman: 15 December 2010 - 04:00 PM

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#14 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 04:47 PM

The difference is the platinum (and iridium) plugs last longer - up to 100K miles. Conventional electrode plugs will typically last only 20K miles. There is no performance difference. Auto manufacturers use them to meet the extended warranties on emissions.
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#15 User is offline   Izzy 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 07:40 PM

I see this question a lot, what really makes one plug better than the other? performance, longevity, fatter spark, construction? or does the application really play a roll on the selection of the plugs?
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Posted 15 December 2010 - 08:42 PM

View PostInjuneer, on 15 December 2010 - 04:47 PM, said:

The difference is the platinum (and iridium) plugs last longer - up to 100K miles. Conventional electrode plugs will typically last only 20K miles. There is no performance difference. Auto manufacturers use them to meet the extended warranties on emissions.


100k miles, that alone would be reason enough for me to use them.
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#17 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:02 PM

The key criterion in plug selection is heat range. That's a measure of how cool the tip of the plug stays, based on how quickly the heat is transferred away from the tip of the plug and through the plug, out of the combustion chamber. Plug tip is too hot, it burns up and the gap increases rapidly, or causes detonation. Plug tip is too cold, and the plug fouls with carbon. With the correct heat range and the correct gap (defined by ignition system voltage capabilities, and combustion chamber pressure) there will be very little difference between plugs. Personally, I think the "gimmick" plugs (e.g - Bosch +4, E3, etc) are poorer performers because the spark is shielded by the oversize ground electrodes.

Platinum and iridium plugs are good for long life, less frequent replacements. But there are issues with some specialty applications, like nitrous use. For nitrous, you're going to be changing the plugs frequently, so long life is not an issue. There can also be problems with the platinum pucks staying in place on the electrodes in extreme heat/pressure conditions that nitrous (or forced induction) can produce.

I run 3 different plugs, with three different gaps, depending whether I'm running only motor (Autolite 104 @ 0.040"), a small shot of nitrous (Autolite 103 @ 0.035") or the full 300-shot (Champion S57YC @ 0.027"). The Champs are so cold, that 15 minutes of idling will foul them out. But you really don't want a "glow plug" in a nitrous application. I let the shop that built my engine recommend the plugs, and prove them out on the engine dyno. They saw no value in anything other than a conventional plug, with a single ground electrode.
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#18 User is offline   Izzy 

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:25 PM

View PostInjuneer, on 15 December 2010 - 09:02 PM, said:

The key criterion in plug selection is heat range. That's a measure of how cool the tip of the plug stays, based on how quickly the heat is transferred away from the tip of the plug and through the plug, out of the combustion chamber. Plug tip is too hot, it burns up and the gap increases rapidly, or causes detonation. Plug tip is too cold, and the plug fouls with carbon. With the correct heat range and the correct gap (defined by ignition system voltage capabilities, and combustion chamber pressure) there will be very little difference between plugs. Personally, I think the "gimmick" plugs (e.g - Bosch +4, E3, etc) are poorer performers because the spark is shielded by the oversize ground electrodes.

Platinum and iridium plugs are good for long life, less frequent replacements. But there are issues with some specialty applications, like nitrous use. For nitrous, you're going to be changing the plugs frequently, so long life is not an issue. There can also be problems with the platinum pucks staying in place on the electrodes in extreme heat/pressure conditions that nitrous (or forced induction) can produce.

I run 3 different plugs, with three different gaps, depending whether I'm running only motor (Autolite 104 @ 0.040"), a small shot of nitrous (Autolite 103 @ 0.035") or the full 300-shot (Champion S57YC @ 0.027"). The Champs are so cold, that 15 minutes of idling will foul them out. But you really don't want a "glow plug" in a nitrous application. I let the shop that built my engine recommend the plugs, and prove them out on the engine dyno. They saw no value in anything other than a conventional plug, with a single ground electrode.


Wow, That's a lot of useful information to consider! It's not just about going to the local shop and buying what ever the store is trying to push, or commercials for that matter! Thanks!
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#19 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 12:32 AM

thanks for all the info especially injunieer, i got the plugs the other day and i spent all day putting them in by myself with no magical tools just a socket and rachet. the first four were preety easy but the last two in the back were hell i try crawling under my car to get them out and my headers were in the way so eventually i got them out by preety much having to crawl all the way in my motor and get them. but there in and runing real good i kinda noticed a small diffrence from these to the bosch i had in there. good plugs though and good buy for me.


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#20 User is offline   bird21 

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 05:53 PM

sorry to bring this topic back up but i was watching s of ome videos on a bad spark plug and i took all six of the old ones out they were bosch platium and there real black on the threads and the tip on all 6 of them.
i heard that could be caused by bad rings or a bad valve.

they havent been in there real long at all maybe 5000 to 6000 miles but they were in there when my ignition module was bad and coils were bad.
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