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Replacing IDLER Tension Pully? 96 FB Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 06:50 AM

Seems like every time I replace something, something else breaks :waitasec:

Recently I replaced the Power Steering Pressure Line in my Firebird. Well, I noticed that the IDLER PULLY was moving, but not very well. Not thinking anything of it, I drove around for about 5 days, and the next thing I knew the Check Gagues light came on today, started overheating etc.etc.. I had a feeling that the belt fell off (maybe i didn't put the power steering pully on right, etc.etc.) Well I opened the hood, adjusted the Power Steering Pulley again and started it. I noticed now that the belt was riding on the back of the IDLER PULLY, and it wasn't moving. Now I was like oh shit. So I used WD-40 to see if i could get the pulley moving again. Well Long story short, the wheel shot off the arm at about 100mph. Now the belt won't stay on the pulley at all, and i noticed the bearings were worn out.

Now that i have to replace the pulley. My question is, basically all i have to do is take off the ALT. and it should be bolted in with 4 bolts right? And the only other question is, is it possible to put the power steering pulley back on too far??

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This post has been edited by Ice Cold 975: 27 November 2010 - 08:04 AM

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#2 User is offline   1993TransAm 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 08:00 AM

Kevin,
I'm not trying to do anything except help you out here - the part you're referring to is an idler pulley. An idler arm is a component of a parallelogram steering assembly, something your car doesn't have.
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#3 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 08:01 AM

View Post1993TransAm, on 27 November 2010 - 08:00 AM, said:

Kevin,
I'm not trying to do anything except help you out here - the part you're referring to is an idler pulley. An idler arm is a component of a parallelogram steering assembly, something your car doesn't have.


OOPS :D ty..
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Posted 27 November 2010 - 09:58 AM

Thats the tensioner pully and it can be replaced by removing the one bolt on the pully. If your tensioner is weak you may need to replace that also. once the pully is off it also only has one bolt holding it on. Once you reinstall the tensioner be sure to line up the demple on the back tensioner and torque to specs.
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#5 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 02:21 PM

View PostZapper1, on 27 November 2010 - 09:58 AM, said:

Thats the tensioner pully and it can be replaced by removing the one bolt on the pully. If your tensioner is weak you may need to replace that also. once the pully is off it also only has one bolt holding it on. Once you reinstall the tensioner be sure to line up the demple on the back tensioner and torque to specs.


What bolt. the only one i could see is the bolt on the front that you pull down to release the tension. The bearing i think is the only part bad. I don't know how tight its supposed to be when you let it go, but the belt fits on pretty snug.

What specs are you talking about also. Im trying to find a way to figure out if all my pulleys are lined up. As i said before, i think my Power steering pulley is a bit outta line (too far in)
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Posted 27 November 2010 - 03:28 PM

You put a socket on the bolt in the center of the pulley, and turn the lever (breaker bar) clockwise to release the idler pulley tension. If you apply the torque counter-clockwise, you will unscrew the center bolt, and the pulley will come off the tensioner.

Check your belt length. The belt should not be excessively snug. There should be markings on the tensioner, and an arrow. When the correct belt length is used, the arrow will be between the acceptable operating marks. If its outside the marks, your belt may be too short. Also, check the PS pulley alignment. It is possible to seat the pulley too far or not far enough on the shaft, causing a misalignment. The misalignment, and/or excessive belt tension may have contributed to the pulley bearing failure.
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#7 User is offline   Ivan 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 03:28 PM

First, you dont have to remove the alternator, all you have to do is put a wrech on the bolst of the idler pulley and move it clockwise that will allowed to remove or place a new belt (very easy).

Second, never use a lubricant on the belt (like WD40), it need friction to move the pulleys.

About the pulley, I think the tensioner comes in a full assembly, so dont loose you time taking it off the arm.

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#8 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 05:28 PM

Ok, let me see if i get this straight. I move the bolt clockwise on this part (below) to get it off?

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#9 User is offline   88gtman 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 09:12 PM

View PostIce Cold 975, on 27 November 2010 - 05:28 PM, said:

Ok, let me see if i get this straight. I move the bolt clockwise on this part (below) to get it off?


Yes that bolt, but turn it counter clockwise.
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#10 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 10:42 PM

View Post88gtman, on 27 November 2010 - 09:12 PM, said:

Yes that bolt, but turn it counter clockwise.


that just releases the tension on the belt. im trying to replace the pully.
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#11 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 07:42 AM

Then turn it the other way. The diagram in my Chilton's must be wrong. They must have used left-handed threads on the center bolt. The 3.4 and the LT1 work the opposite way.

Alternatively, just unbolt the tension unit that it is attached to. As noted in a post above, you may need to buy a complete assembly, not just the pulley.
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#12 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 12:26 PM

I fixed the pulley in a matter of about 5 minutes. Now the car is just overheating, but im wondering if it sucked in all the ani-freeze/coolant when it overheated during the pulley breaking. Anyone think i should replace the thermostat (its new tho about 2 months old)
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Posted 29 November 2010 - 11:02 PM

take it to a shop and flush the coolant system before you replace the stat. its fairly cheap, and a crapton less work to do.how's your heat? blowing hot air? my car never overheats, and if I put it on full heat, I can almost toast marshmallows on my vents.
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#14 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 01:18 PM

i had it flushed about 3 months ago. I got it to stop overheating. But for some reason its riding at 210 with a 180 t-stat in it. Never did it before tho :/ It was usually around 160-190 all day.

I think im just going to take 6.00$ and replace the t-stat with another 180.
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Posted 30 November 2010 - 02:47 PM

A 180*F thermostat only STARTS to open at 180*. It is not fully open until about 200*F. The purpose of the thermostat is not to limit the MAXIMUM operating temperature - the fans do that. The purpose of the t'stat is to control the engine MINIMUM operating temperature. It would be very unusual for an engine with a 180* t'stat to operate at 160*f, and would actually indicate a t'stat that was stuck open.

The engine needs to reach a certain minimum operating temperature to insure complete combustion, good gas mileage, to minimize pollutants, and heat the oil hot enough to drive off harmful condensates. There is nothing wrong with the engine running above 200*F. GM designed it that way.

If you are running a race engine, its a different story - you wouldn't care about gas mileage, pollutants, etc. You wouldn't worry about oil contamination, becasue you change it frequently. You want the POSSIBLE advantages of running more ignition advance, preventing heat up of the incoming air charge, etc. But for a "street" engine, its a different story.

I'm surprised the V6 doesn't run a 196* t'stat, like most other GM engine (except the LT1 with its reverse flow cooling :) ).
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#16 User is offline   Ice Cold 975 

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 03:12 PM

i replaced the 196 with a 180 over the summer to keep the motor cooler. It sometimes gets hot as shit around here in the summer.
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