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Should I flush out the DexCool? Have under 40K miles - Not too late? Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Mark42 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 06:00 PM

My 98 V6 Firebird has less than 40K on it now, and the DexCool coolant is still clear. I have been reading about the consumer law suits against GM regarding problems with DexCool. Wondering if I should flush the entire system and fill with the traditional "green" anti-freeze/coolant? Or are these isolated problems with DexCool?
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#2 User is offline   1993TransAm 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 06:42 PM

DexCool breaks down the upper and lower intake manifolds in that motor, in addition to creating what the class action lawsuit called "general engine sealability" problems. Basically, the 90 degree V6 engines (such as yours and the 3300s), 60 degree V6s (3400 and 3100), and 4300 Vortec motors were all adversely affected by DexCool. Your gaskets may need replaced depending on how much they have reacted with the DexCool already. It could only be a matter of time. You have noting to lose by getting that poison out of your engine. By the way, GM settled that class action suit after years of denying there was anything wrong with their DexCool.
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#3 User is offline   Pete W 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 07:15 PM

Mrk, I would flush it out for sure. Just keep an eye on the lower intake gasket for leaks.
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#4 User is offline   81frbd 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 07:36 PM

Pete and Simon are right. Get rid of that crap A.S.A.P!

When I built the motor for my Formula, I made sure I used good old green coolant. It's worked for ever and continues to do so.

Just make sure, once you get the new coolant in, you check it with a test ball tool so you know you're getting the right protection. Don't just rely on the 50/50 mix some manufacturers are selling now a days.
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#5 User is offline   Mark42 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 04:24 AM

Wow! Thanks for the replies. Guess I will be flushing the system this weekend. Hopefully because the DexCool is still clear, it has not started to do damage.

I don't like "pre-mix" coolant. Rather read the mix ratio and decide for myself what is needed for my climate.

To flush, I guess after draining out the radiator petcock, the system can be filled by the garden hose while the engine idles for a few minutes, ensuring a good flow of water. Can leave the radiator open so it continually drains. Then drain the water and fill with the right mix of coolant and distilled water. Sound good?
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#6 User is offline   TransAmer99 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 04:40 AM

Well, it would be better for the environment (not to mention plants, pets, pests and people) to capture all the old stuff instead of running it down the driveway, into the yard or down the storm sewer. If it eats seals, there's no telling what it will do in the water table. At least try to drain the initial load from the radiator into a bucket or container of some sort.
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Prestone still sells a Flush & Fill kit where you splice a tee-fitting into your heater hose and hook a garden hose to that. This ensures that you not only flush all the old crap out of the engine (a hose in the radiator only keeps the radiator full - power-flushing through the heater core backflushed the whole system), but you can also use their clean-out product to make the system as free of the old stuff as possible before you introduce the new mix.
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#7 User is offline   Injuneer 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 05:00 AM

If your car is a 98, the coolant should have been flushed and replaced twice already, at 5-year intervals (if you accept the GM guidelines).

The best way to drain the coolant is to use the radiator petcock and the block drains, backed up with a power flush to clean out the heater.

Regarding disposal, don't leave ethylene glycol where an animal can get to it - the sweet odor attracts them, they drink it, and it poisons them.

http://www.flowstoba...zeRecycling.pdf

The Dex-Cool problems with the V6 engines are well documented. There was also an issue with the incorrect radiator cap being used on some GM trucks, allowing excessive air to enter the system, causing sludge. Beyond that, the claims of problems are mostly ambulance-chasing attorneys looking for a quick buck - pure histrionics. All GM vehicles since 1996 have used Dex-Cool. If there was a problem beyond those already identified, there would be millions of GM vehicles littering the roadside, pouring out coolant, or overheating.

I switched my LT1 to Dex-Cool in 1996 at my first coolant change. I've been using it since then, with the 5-year replacement guideline. It has definite advantages with regard to reduced water pump wear, protection of aluminum components, etc.
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#8 User is offline   81frbd 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 05:32 AM

View PostTransAmer99, on 20 April 2010 - 04:40 AM, said:

Well, it would be better for the environment (not to mention plants, pets, pests and people) to capture all the old stuff instead of running it down the driveway, into the yard or down the storm sewer. If it eats seals, there's no telling what it will do in the water table. At least try to drain the initial load from the radiator into a bucket or container of some sort.
-
Prestone still sells a Flush & Fill kit where you splice a tee-fitting into your heater hose and hook a garden hose to that. This ensures that you not only flush all the old crap out of the engine (a hose in the radiator only keeps the radiator full - power-flushing through the heater core backflushed the whole system), but you can also use their clean-out product to make the system as free of the old stuff as possible before you introduce the new mix.



Now is a good time to replace all your hoses since you're into the coolant system anyway. They're not real expensive and besides, "PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE" is the key to a happy motor.

I've used this Prestone system on all my vehicles (with the exception to the Firebird, that doesn't need it yet) and one thing that I've always done is to replace the one I'm splicing. That way I can splice the old hose, put in the "T" fitting. Flush the system and then put the new hose in. That way I don't have that unsightly "T" fitting in my engine bay. It also prevents a possible leak point from the fitting.

Since you'll be doing this every 5 years or so, you can just repeat the process.
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