[transamlover]

this coming sunday (if the weather permits) im going to the track. I'm nervous. I have no idea how to launch. I've never really goosed it so that makes me a little uneasy. Any advice and pointers would be great. Thanks.

[Pete W]

Just don't do this!

http://videos.street...r-at_173001.htm

[hot00frb]

hahah pete loved the vid

[FSTLS1TA]

See if I can help. What tires are you running in the rear. If your run DR or Slick than heat them up in the water box. And this is important roll off the clutch leaving the line. If you dump it and them tires bite your going to need a trailer to get the car home. If your on street tires just baby first gear and put it to the floor when you hit second. It just takes practice. Remember to have fun don't go out there trying to set a best time or you will broke something. Let us know how you do.

[2000formula]

good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Pete W]

Hey Joshua, I just sent a PM to Glenn Lever, he would be really be able to give you a lot of good advice.
Take Care, Pete

[transamlover]

Thanks guys. As for the video anyone that stupid shouldn't be allowed to drive.

[Glenn Lever]

I pulled this off Bob Kennedy's website! I hope everyone reads this even veteran racers who may forget some of the rules.

Kennedy's Dynotune brings you Drag Strip Etiquette and Intro to Drag Racing

http://kennedysdynotune.com/

New to drag racing? We all were once, so if you want to know how to act at the strip and not make a spectacle of yourself, read on. Based on our years of experience, we bring you these tips.

Tech Inspection/Safety Items

After entering the track, paying your entry fee, and finding a place to pit you are ready to have your car "teched". Tech inspection is usually fairly casual if you are running a stock type car, but you should be familiar with the rules that are used at your local track. Tracks generally follow either IHRA or NHRA rules, which are quite similar. Purchase a rule book on-line for ~$10 and read it carefully. Even though the rules may not require it for the speeds a newcomer will be running (slower than 13.99sec usually), Kennedy's advises that you wear a Snell approved helmet at a minimum. Jeans, a T-shirt, shoes and socks are the minimum clothing items that you should wear. Even in slower stock cars, shorts and bare feet are prohibited. Seat belts with a shoulder harness are obviously also required. Cars running faster than 13.99sec may be required to have a driveshaft loop, though in a stock vehicle they will probably let you race anyway. Faster than 11.99sec requires a lot more equipment (such as a roll bar), but you won't be going that fast in a stock or near stock vehicle, so don't worry about it yet.

Assuming you have the required equipment, tech should be no problem. Listen to the announcements to tell you where to report for tech. Or ask a track official. At many tracks they will tech you in the staging lanes. The tech inspector will need your tech card, so have it filled out and ready. After you pass tech, the inspector will write your car number on your driver's side window and windshield with shoe polish so it will be visible to the tower and track officials. At some tracks you can write the numbers yourself and the inspector will place a mark of some sort indicating you have passed tech. Just watch what's going on or ask a more experienced competitor or track official if you are unsure. If you tell people you are "newbie" they will almost always be glad to help. Drag racing tends to be informal and friendly, even at the professional level. So among your fellow "Sportsman" racers you can expect a lot of help if you need it.

Staging

At some point, racing will start. Listen for the announcements and go to the correct lane for your class when it is called. Once you are in the lanes, stay with your car even when nothing appears to be happening. Once the lane starts to move, it may move quickly and you don't want to hold up a whole line while you fiddle with your belts or return to your car. Watch the track officials, do not move until they motion you forward. Even when you are cleared to move, keep a sharp eye out for people walking around the lanes or for other vehicles. You should keep your AC off in the staging lanes, it will drip water that will get on tires and ruin traction. Your windows should be closed and parking lights on (if it is nighttime) as you approach the starting line.

As you approach the starting area, you will reach the "water box", a slightly depressed area of pavement that is kept wet by track officials. If you have street tires, drive around the water. You may back up a little to straighten the car out and get your rear tires onto the damp area just past the water box. If you drive through the water, your tread will spread the water into the starting area and other competitors will hate you for it! The water is there to allow cars with race tires to do a proper "burn out". Street tired cars should not do a big smoky burnout. The rubber in street tires is designed to operate best at typical ambient temperatures. The tires get slipperier, not stickier, when they get too hot. Just wait for the official to give you the signal to advance to the starting line. At that point, just briefly spin the tires while you accelerate out of the damp area and pull up to the lights. If your car is an automatic, hold the brakes on while you press down on the accelerator and your wheels should spin when you release the brake. For a stick shift, just bring the revs up and "pop" the clutch to get your wheels to spin for a few revolutions.

The "Christmas Tree"

The start of a drag race is controlled by the "Christmas tree", often called just the "tree". It has multicolored starting lights and the name comes from these. On each competitors side are seven lights: two small yellow lights at the top of the fixture, followed in descending order by three larger yellow lights, then a green and a red bulb. Two light beams cross the starting-line area and are wired to the Christmas tree and electronic timers. When the front tires of a vehicle break the first light beam, called the pre-stage beam, the top yellow light (pre-stage light) illuminates and indicates that the car is approximately seven inches from the starting line.

Rolling further forward into the stage beam causes the second yellow light (the stage light) to illuminate, indicating that the vehicle is ready to race. When both vehicles are staged, the starter will activate the tree, and each driver will focus on the three large amber lights on his side of the tree. The three large yellow light will illuminate consecutively 0.500sec (1/2 second) apart, followed in 0.500sec by the green light. This sequence of lights is called a "full tree". There is also a "pro tree" in which all three yellow lights illuminate for 0.400sec. As a newcomer you will want a full tree.

The Starting Line

As you approach the starting line, watch the starter and the "tree" as you creep forward. When the top yellow light illuminates, you are "pre-staged". If you are first to the line, wait for the other car to pre-stage before you "stage". To stage, advance just a little further until the second yellow comes on. If you go too far, first the top and then the second light will go out. If that happens, back up past the line and creep forward again until both lights are illuminated. You are not yet ready for the controversial technique of "deep staging" where up pull far enough forward to extinguish the first light but still leave the second light illuminated. After both cars have staged, the tree will start. Each of the three main yellow lights will come on in succession 0.5sec apart. You should launch when the last yellow illuminates, the green light will illuminate 0.5sec later and you need to anticipate this to get close to the perfect 0.500sec reaction time. If your reaction time is less than 0.500sec you have "red lighted". You can still make your pass for testing purposes, but you have lost the race unless your competitor red lights first!

Making your Pass

The goal is to get to the end of track as soon as possible. Sounds simple, right? Just keep your foot buried in the throttle. But there are a number of pitfalls. The most important is to stay safe. To this end, stay in your own lane and if something seems wrong, get out of the throttle. If something breaks, your car may be leaking oil or other fluids. In that case, put on the brakes, stop immediately, and pull over to the edge of the lane to avoid oiling down the track.

When you pass the finish line, start slowing down immediately. If you are in the right lane, and the track turn off's are on the left, then the other car has the right of way. If the turn off in on your side, you have the right of way. In any case, do not turn in front of another car! Wait for them to go past you, even though you reached the finish line first. Proceed up the return road, and stop to get your ET slip at the timing stand. Drive slowly on the return road and in the pits, there are kids, other people, and cars moving around.

Do's and Don'ts

Do be sure you have the appropriate safety equipment for the speed and class you are running in.

Do not speed in the pits or return road.

Do not drive through the water box in a street tire car.

Do not do a big smoky burnout with street tires.

Do be alert to and obey the instructions of the track officials.

Do not continue a pass if something feels or sounds wrong.

Do pull to the edge of the track if you thing something has broken. This may avoid oiling down the track and inconveniencing the other competitors.

If you bring young children to the track keep in mind that drag racing is noisy and potentially dangerous. Keep an eye on young children and do not allow them to wander unattended. Provide them with ear protection if they are too young to cover their own ears.

Do not bring pets. It's too noisy, and they will hate it. Leave them at home.

Do have fun. That's the point after all!

Once you catch the "racing bug" and decide you want to go faster, call Kennedy's. We can make your car a winner, the driving is up to you!

We are often at our local 1/4 mile track New York International Raceway Park in Leicester NY, which is an excellent facility. Come visit us and say hello, we will be glad to help as will the friendly track staff.

[83TransAmCowboy]

EXCELLANT Find Glenn! Thanks for posting!!

Just to add on the street tire burnout, Just spined them a quick se to CLEAN them, if u smoke em it's to much. From what I understand the DOT approved tired (STreet tires) the rubber tend to Harden up after getting hot, not soften (get stickier) like Drag tires. SO just a quick Romp on the throttle and you'll be good to go.

If ur not sure about your car just go easy work your way up to pushing the car's Limit, a safe 15 second run is MUCH better than a attempt for a 10 secound run and wreaking your car.

Matt

This post has been edited by 83TransAmCowboy: 29 March 2009 - 07:34 PM

[Glenn Lever]

Just remember one thing. Have fun, if you are not having fun your doing something wrong. Do not be afraid to ask questions. People love to tell you what you should do. Listen to them and then do what you feel is right.

[jn56]

Yes Glenn, very well done! We should make that a tech article

[transamlover]

Glenn Thanks alot that is extremely helpful.

[Glenn Lever]

jn56, on Mar 29 2009, 11:34 PM, said:

Yes Glenn, very well done! We should make that a tech article

I did not write it and would not want to take credit for it. I also do not know how to create a tech article.

[Pete W]

Thanks so much Glenn! Very much appreciated!
Take Care, Pete

[FSTLS1TA]

11.99 is not true any more for a roll bar. It's 10.45 now because more and more stock cars are faster now. And even some minor work will break the 11.99 mark. I ran a 12.5 at a crappy 60 foot. Even my friend shawn in his z06 ran a 10.62 and the track didn't say any thin about a roll bar.

[tweety]

Actually, 11.50 is the ET break that requires a rollbar for both NHRA and IHRA. 11.49 and quicker is the point where a bar is required. If you decide to use sticky tires (slicks) don't forget, you will be required to have a driveshaft loop irregardless of ET. Sometimes things are overlooked by tech, but I wouldn't bank on it, I bet it would spoil your first trip to the track if you were bounced for failing tech. As was mentioned in the link from Kennedy's that Glenn was kind enough to post, it pays to purchase a rulebook, and read it. At least the parts that are relevant to the class you'll be running in. Also as previously mentioned, the important thing is to have fun! If you don't go into your first trip to the track with any expectaions other than to enjoy yourself and start to get a feel for running at the track, you have half the battle won. Get out there, enjoy yourself and learn. I have no doubt you'll be meeting a good group of guys where ever you race.

[Glenn Lever]

tweety, on Mar 30 2009, 02:20 AM, said:

Actually, 11.50 is the ET break that requires a rollbar for both NHRA and IHRA. 11.49 and quicker is the point where a bar is required. If you decide to use sticky tires (slicks) don't forget, you will be required to have a driveshaft loop irregardless of ET. Sometimes things are overlooked by tech, but I wouldn't bank on it, I bet it would spoil your first trip to the track if you were bounced for failing tech. As was mentioned in the link from Kennedy's that Glenn was kind enough to post, it pays to purchase a rulebook, and read it. At least the parts that are relevant to the class you'll be running in. Also as previously mentioned, the important thing is to have fun! If you don't go into your first trip to the track with any expectaions other than to enjoy yourself and start to get a feel for running at the track, you have half the battle won. Get out there, enjoy yourself and learn. I have no doubt you'll be meeting a good group of guys where ever you race.

Note, if you put slicks on you are moved to a differnt class with stricker rules regardless of your ET.

Rules are interesting, and next to impossible to understand, and seem to change from track to track and inspector to inspector.

Best thing to do is to is to play dumb, be nice, and I have found they love to tell you what you should have, and if you are not a 11 second car they mostly will let you run with the provision you sould get whatever they find fixed. One thing most tracks insist on is a recovery bottle.

The strangest rule I have been told about is the top of the fuel cell in the trunk can not be above the top of the rear tires. I have read both NHRA and IHRA rule books and can find nothing on that.

So, go to have fun, don't bitch if you lose, expect it to be a learning process, it looks easy and simple but you will learn that there are things to learn and you will get better the more times you go.

Of all the things to get right these two are the most important.

One reaction time. You will be told that you need to leave when the third yellow light goes out. If you see the green light you are to late. This is not completely true. There are two reaction times involved. You have yours, and the cars. Last year I was actually leaving when the second yellow light went out. The car reacted slowly even when foot braked. At the end of the season I was getting reason with .550 reaction times. This takes practice (best thing for this is go to some test and tunes and just launch a bunch of times, you do not have to run the whole track. The track I run at actually has a cut out so that you can turn out without running the whole track.

Two in ET racing car consistancy is very important. You wil find that temperature and humitiy really effects ET. Start a table and write Temp, Humity, tire pressure, Burnout RPM, Launch RPM down. See below for an example

Time Slips Click Here
Excel spread sheet (best presentation)Time Slips Click Here
Word Doc Format

This post has been edited by Glenn Lever: 30 March 2009 - 04:46 AM

[Rusty]

tweety, on Mar 29 2009, 11:20 PM, said:

Actually, 11.50 is the ET break that requires a rollbar for both NHRA and IHRA. 11.49 and quicker is the point where a bar is required. If you decide to use sticky tires (slicks) don't forget, you will be required to have a driveshaft loop irregardless of ET. Sometimes things are overlooked by tech, but I wouldn't bank on it, I bet it would spoil your first trip to the track if you were bounced for failing tech. As was mentioned in the link from Kennedy's that Glenn was kind enough to post, it pays to purchase a rulebook, and read it. At least the parts that are relevant to the class you'll be running in. Also as previously mentioned, the important thing is to have fun! If you don't go into your first trip to the track with any expectaions other than to enjoy yourself and start to get a feel for running at the track, you have half the battle won. Get out there, enjoy yourself and learn. I have no doubt you'll be meeting a good group of guys where ever you race.

Good advise, just have fun. That's what it's all about, whether golfing, Baseball, hunting, racing, whatever, just enjoy yourself, isn't that why we have "hobbies".

[stephendsp]

Im not sure if you are just going for a test and tune, or actual drag race even. A lot depends on your track, like one i go to with ttops have to have helmet, other places i dont. Doesnt matter speed. Another thing if not a drag race, but fun run/test n tune, the tree usually is not the same. At my local tracks, when staged, the top 2 (actually there are four, two in a row) light up. Then all the yellow light, and the green. Some tracks are different for different events. First time out i have a reaction time of 1.6 sec. Didnt know how the lights worked. Glenn did post an excellent post on drag race rules, and how to. Let us know what kind of race you are doing.

[Glenn Lever]

Sportsman Pratice tree
http://www.rbracing-...hraxtreesp.html

Pro Tree
http://www.racewinds.../Trees/pro.html