Firebird Nation Technical Discussion Forums

Code 43 and coolant fans not starting?

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:09:11 +0000

just as the title says title says i have a code 43 which causes my car to start and idle with low rpms, and my coolant fans won't turn on when i turn the key... i think im gonna cry...
please help.

leaking coolant...again

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:58:02 +0000

workin on my third water pump now, what would cause it to leak through the weep hole, because im sure its leaking there again...i change out the water pump, good for about 4-6 weeks then it starts leaking again...not just little drops here and there...im talking gallons..

im totally clueless...

94 firebird v6 rough idle

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:20:18 +0000

My cars dash vibrates violently when i pull up to like a stop sign n its in drive but it won't if its in reverse or nuetral. also when im driving down the road if im at 45mph or higher my cars rpms will go to around 2000 then drop sharply to 1500 when i level the car off at lets say 55mph and it has a small shaking when the rpms drop but only the driver notices it(feels it) not that bad..rpms wont drop when im driving below 45mph though. ive put a brand new egr valve on it and replaced all the essentials on the car, oil, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, etc. someone help please!!!!

EBC brakes for the Firebird

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:35:02 +0000

Hi all,

Just got 455 miles on my new set of EBC 3G slotted/dimpled brakes with EBC green stuff pads. At first they were great, but now looking at
the lines in the rotors, they seem to be glazing.

I don't ride my brakes, nor did I just ignore the manufacturers break in procedures, but followed them to a T.

They even want you to check for runout at the initial install. I had .002 at first, but now the rotors are running between .00075" to .001".

EBC allows .003".

I read some info on other sites, and they said the green stuff is SH??, but how can this be???

Green stuff for normal driving and the Red stuff is for track use.....

Anyone else having this problem??

The company says it's my fault, because I was riding them too long or braking too light.

Could someone shed some light on this???

Spending $266 on this setup and have it go this way, just plain sucks

-Mike

Distributor Advance

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:06:09 +0000

So I put an MSD PN 85551 Distributor on my firebird. I was thinking about taking it back off and advancing the timing to get more HP out of the engine. What I need to know is how do you know how much to advance it, whether to lock out the advance, and whether to lockout the vacuum advance. Any suggestions on how to do these, which ones to do, and how much?

Thanks
Zyd

Need Help!

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:27:38 +0000

I Usually just read other peoples topics for help but I couldnt really find anything for my problem so some help would be greatly appreciated! I own a 1987 Firebird formula (Great condition). its not a daily driver and I store it in winter. It has a 305 in it and its pretty much dead but thats fine with me. My question is what would be the best engine to put in it now? and what would the price range be? im only seventeen but I have big dreams for my bird!

Thanks alot
-Dillon

EGR Cleanout

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:46:43 +0000

Hi all.

Need some info on EGR valve cleanup. Bit of background:

My 1996 Firebird was showing an occasional SES light. I only noticed a minor performance degradation. I went by AutoZone, they said I was showing an EGR error, saying the pintle position was 10% of expected or something similar (the printout is at home, and I'm at work). The tech said the pintle sometimes gets stuck due to carbon buildup.

Few days later I was accelerating from a stoplight when the car started missing and the SES light flashed, meaning a misfire. Car has ran crappily ever since, primarily while accerating. Usually when it gets up to speed it smooths out, and sometimes I can slowly accelerate without any problems.

I've been given advice that before replacing the EGR valve (and shelling out the $150 for a new one) I can try doing a system clean using SeaFoam. What would you all recommend as the best method of using this to clean, or do you have any other ideas? Where would I pour it, or do I just use it to scrub the carbon from the valve?

Thanks in advance.

2000 rear hatch fit a 1994

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:19:12 +0000

I found an excellet 2000 trans am rear hatch with the large spoiler. Will this fit my 1994 firebird.

Quick question about a CAI im looking into

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 09:55:43 +0000

I was just looking for some lol wisdom from you Firebird fans about this intake, i like the look and in theory its sound but its for a 5.7, think it'll fit my 3.8? Its looks pretty generic but i wasnt sure, and i cant tell if its a simple behind the grill or if i'll need a ram air hood, help?
http://www.andysautosport.com/pontiac/1993_2001_firebird/performance/intakes/cold_air_intakes/volant/vola00092648.html

what the?

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:24:34 +0000

I puechased a 73 espirit with what I was told was the original motor that had been replaced because it was stating to smoke. I scraped the block clean just under the head on the passenger side. I can clearly read "388522" and just below that "XR". I found the "XR" was used in a variety of 4spd and automatics, but "388522" didn't show up anywhere in my research. What is this motor? Am I missing something here? I have looked everywhere I could think of to find the information. I figured someone here would be able to shine a light for me. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

vaccum pressure

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:08:19 +0000

anybody know how to get the vac pressure back up on a 305 HO? its not ther original motor for my car and the guy that built it died bout 10 years ago. i was told he put a mild cam in it, i was also told that my pressure should be at 20lbs and i only get about 12 to 15. i replaced all the vaccum lines and cant find a leak anywhere. i was told it was the cam causing it

I wonder?

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:09:03 +0000

I want to get some educated opinions on how much power I could get out of my 3.8 without turbo or juice or anything like that. I simplly want to build a motor that will still be dependable. comments?

[attachment=22345:1999 Firebird.JPG]

Wiring Nightmares

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:47:26 +0000

I am working on an 84 firebird that started out as a 4 cylinder car but has been changed to an 305 v8. No computer and the car will be have a carb. My issue is that the wiring under the hood is all ripped out. Not sure where anything goes. I need to re hook up the gauges, lights, etc, etc. I'd like to just do all new wiring instead of using the balled up mess of wires that are laying in the trunk. I have a Haynes but there isn't really much Illustration in it showing what goes where. And the Wiring Diagrams aren't that great either. So does anyone know of an electronic file that could help or a book or anything? I can do mechanical stuff well, but wiring is more difficult for me.

Air Valve

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:15:18 +0000

In the trunk of my 79, there is a air valve. Looks like a factory install, but not for sure. The tag around the valve stem says.......25lbs min. 200lbs max. This valve is located on the hump at the taillight end of the trunk, caused by the gas line going to the tank. Does anyone have a clue? I will take a picture of it when it gets daylight if it will help decipher the dilema. I have been curious about this ever since I had the car, but never really thought about it till this morning when I went out and got some paperwork out of the trunk. Thanks.................I am assuming it is for shocks. LMAO!!! I guess I need to get my old butt under it and see myself. The picture I took, with my cellphone was about 4:30 this morning, and trunk light not very bright.

Air shocks

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:22:12 +0000

What PSI should i put in them. They are on the rear, and i got stock rims and tires. The sticker beside the air valve says 25 PSI MIN 200 PSI MAX. right now, its at 2 PSI lol

I changed my exhaust over the weekend

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:24:29 +0000

I decided to put my Flowmaster exhaust back on. It sounds much better with longtube headers in front of it.
What do you think?
idle vid1
idle vid
Rev vid

Here are a couple vids with the SLP Loudmouth exhaust.
SLP idle and rev
sLP2

Windshield and side windows

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 02:32:07 +0000

So anyways... I just bought a 1982 Trans am for $300... body's solid, got the faded black and gold paint... and 93k miles(33k from the built 350 it has now)... bad news... someone busted out the windows(except back)... this is probably a yea, but i can put in any 82-92 windshield and side windows right? thats first on my list... make it into a car again instead of a plastic topped screenhouse ...

fuel injectors?problems

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:54:09 +0000

ive heard that the third gen LT1s have fuel issues my 93 ta runs great but when u start it up when its cold it idles very ruff like its chugging gas allmost? idk if thats normal or if i should change my injectors and fuel filter?wat do you think

Powerglide - TH350

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:24:47 +0000

Just wondering, my mechanic is building me a bullet-proof TH350 to replace what I thought was a TH350, the 2 speed powerglide. My question is will the driveshaft be a direct fit once the TH350 is in or will I have to cut it down/get a new one? Thanks

This will hafta do..

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:22:43 +0000

Zex 10lbs. high flow bottle
NOS Super Pro-shot N20 solenoid and purge solenoid
NOS Cheater Fuel solenoid
Edelbrock carb plate.

Got some jets and other good stuff to go with it

What is the narrowest tire I can fit on my rim.

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:08:46 +0000

My current tires on my Firebird are 235/60R15. I was wondering what is the narrowest tire size i can smash onto those rims? My secondary vehicle recently caught on fire and I cannot afford to fix it or replace it at this time, so my only option is to drive my firebird in the Winter. I hate to do it but i have no option. I would like to buy the tires online because it is cheaper, but I jsut want input as to what the narrowest tire i can fit on those rims are, Id like to keep the same height if i can. Thanks in advance.

Impact sensor?

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:24:37 +0000

I'm not getting any fuel pressure on my car, I figure its the pump but a mechanic friend told me gm had really sensitive impact sensors, not sure what they are actually called. He said that they were so sensitive that a bad speed bump can trigger them and cut fuel. Anyone know what he is talking about, supposedly there a is button on the sensor to reset it and I don't want to spend the money on a pump if I don't need one.

Built in 50 rpm slip in the 4L60E converter?

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:29:50 +0000

I was talking to a trans and rear shop this morning about installing gears and LSD in my 98 Firebird. The owner of the shop said that the trans should have a shift kit installed to eliminate the 50 rpm slip in the converter that causes heat buildup. He said its there to prevent misfires or rough running from being noticeable.

Is this a true statement about the converter always slipping a little even when supposedly in lock up mode?

Dropping the steering column

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:28:30 +0000

Does anyone know how to drop the steering column?

I removed the 2 nuts that were holding it up and it came down about a inch, but not enough for what I need.

Thanks

Climate control

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:45:33 +0000

Condensation

When the temperature inside an object is warmer than the temperature outside, this can cause the water molecules to go through a process called condensation. Moisture is everywhere, even in a car that is just sitting. And because of interior items such as carpets, seats and other cloth or vinyl upholstery items, the outside metal surface of the car will get much colder than the interior. This causes moisture to form on the windows, especially on a cold or rainy day. Defrosters combat this phenomenon so that drivers can see out the windows and operate the vehicle safely.

Forced Air or Blower Type

On the majority of production vehicles that exist today, the front defroster will consist of vents. It utilizes the same blower motor and fan that the heating and air conditioning systems use. The vents are placed directly below the windshield, facing up toward the roof of the car. When the vehicle's coolant reaches temperature and the thermostat opens, it allows the hot water to cycle through the heater core. The blower fan then directs this hot air up through the defroster vents (selected on the heater/AC panel) and warms up the temperature of the windows, removing any condensation that may have built up. The obvious drawback is that the vehicle must be warmed up first in order for the system to really work well.

Electric Type

The rear window on most automobiles has tiny lines going through it. These are actually electrical wires, which heat up when current flows through them. In this manner, the resulting heat is used to displace the condensation on the inside of the window, but can also work on the outside. The heating elements have very low heat compared to say, a burner, so humans are in no danger of getting burnt if they are touched while powered on. They put out just enough heat to combat the moisture built up on the window. They are usually wired along the roofline of the car, underneath the headliner. New model automobiles are starting to come out with heating elements in the front windshield, as well, which will negate the need to let the vehicle warm up before turning on the defroster.

How to defrost your windows

Defogging the windshield of a car would seem like a simple enough task, since most modern automobiles come with a 'defroster/defogger'* installed. But the truth is, it's quite difficult for most people to achieve a clear windshield because they don't understand why or how condensation forms on a windshield.

Your windows can get steamy for two different (but related) reasons:

It's too hot and humid inside the automobile, and so water particles accumulate on the inside of the windows, upon the relatively cool surface of the glass. This is what happens when you park the car at night to, um, talk with your passenger(s). The windows 'steam' up because water vapor which has escaped from your lungs due to your, um, breathing, is trapped in the hot, stagnant confines of your car's interior.

OR

It's too hot and humid outside the automobile, and you have your air conditioning (or 'defroster')* running at a very cold temperature. In this instance, the water vapor is accumulating on the outside of the glass, because the interior of your car is very cool, relative to the outside temperature. Water vapor condenses on cold surfaces.

These are two distinct problems, but you can use your defroster, or any fan directed at the windshield, to accomplish windshield clarity, as I will describe. It is amazing (to me) that proper defogging techniques are not taught in driver's education classes (or at least, they were not taught to me), because not everybody understands the physics involved. I, admittedly, only understand a little bit about it, but I have developed a system for defrosting a windshield properly, efficiently, and effortlessly. And I share it below. But remember if your windshield is compromising your view, pull over to correct the problem, DO NOT attempt to wipe or do anything else while driving, as this is dangerous.

One common mistake in windshield-defogging is the belief that there is something wrong with the windshield defroster. There's not. The problem is you. I'm sorry, but just being honest. You turn it on at full blast set for the coldest temperature (or the hottest temperature), and then get all pissed off when, after about thirty seconds of blissfully clear glass, you are dismayed at new formations of condensate. You give up, thinking your defroster is not working. But you just didn't give it the right instructions, that's all.

The first line of defense should always be fresh air. Very often, fresh air, either let in through the windows or the vents, can eliminate condensation without the need for a 'formal' defrosting process. But sometimes this won't work; if it's raining; if you're particularly sweaty; if it's particularly humid outside; or if it's too cold outside to roll down the windows.

In the event that fresh air does not work, (and for both scenarios above), you must attempt to minimize the difference in temperature between the two sides of the glass. Follow this process:

Turn on your car's defroster (and if that does not automatically engage the air conditioning, if you have one, turn on the air conditioning too). This applies in any weather. The 'air conditioning' involves a dehumidifying process which is very helpful at windshield defrosting. If you don't have air conditioning, but rather, just a fan vent pointed at the windsheild, turn that on instead.

Now, the most important step: Find the right temperature! If it's hot outside, start with the temperature adjusted to the hottest setting until all of the fog disappears from the glass. Then, slowly begin moving it to colder and colder settings until you see the first hint of frost beginning to form on the windshield again. Immediately turn the temperature back ever-so-slightly warmer, and you should have found the equilibrium point. If it's cold outside, you'll want to do the opposite: Start with the temperature as cold as possible until all of the frost disappears, and then immediately begin adjusting the temperature warmer and warmer, until the first signs of condensation reappear.

And remember, quit breathing so hard, and your windows won't fog up.

TB Coolant bypass.

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:36:47 +0000

This is a nice FREE mod. If anyone doesnt know what this is, on a 3.4, and i believe a 5.7 has 2 "U" shaped hoses in front of the Throttle Body, it circulates coolant into the intake, therefore heating the intake. All you do it remove both hoses from the TB and remove one completly. and turn the other one and connect it to the one you just removed. Bypassing the whole TB, and lowering the intake Temp. I drove my car about 10 miles, and got it to normal temp, and i pulled over and touched the TB and it was as cold as the air outside, usually its so hot you cant leave your hand on it for over 2 seconds. Very nice mod.

Should i feel my AC compressor kick on?

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:29:13 +0000

I put the defrost on and im going up a hill, and i can literally feel the compressor kick in, it kinda slows me down verly slightly, but i can feel it. Is it on the way out? or is this normal? Blows air COLD and defrost works well.

budget power mods?

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:40:16 +0000

Wats the best way to get the true power out of a LT1 without spending over 2000 dollars? open to any sugjestions

Plastic lenses

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:08:58 +0000

In the past, automakers designed headlight lenses made from glass so they were limited in the size and shape they could produce. Since then, auto manufacturers began designing cars with plastic or polycarbonate headlight lenses. This modification mainly occurred due to the change in the design of cars---cars became lighter and more aerodynamic, plus plastic was by far less expensive to produce than glass. Today this plastic material is the chosen choice because it is very light and can be transformed into unlimited sizes and shapes to satisfy new car designs.

Polycarbonate has its advantages but also has its disadvantages---namely oxidation/discoloration. To the naked eye one cannot tell that these plastic lenses are actually a porous material that expands ever so slightly when it gets hot. Degradation of the lens occurs over time. Having your headlights on or being exposed to the heat of the day causes the pores to open allowing debris from the road to get in. Debris, together with a combination of environmental factors such as the sun (UV rays), smog, acid rain, car exhaust, and harsh chemicals used to wash you car can cause the plastic headlight lenses to become oxidized.

Plastic oxidation leads to lens discoloration, which transforms new, clear, bright, shiny plastic to a dull yellow tint that appears to be foggy, hazy, or cloudy. This process (oxidation), as described above, not only becomes an eyesore but also is unsafe. Because of the degradation of the plastic lens, less light passed through resulting in diminished visibility during night driving. The car owner either had to deal with these cloudy yellow, oxidized headlight lenses posing serious safety issues or purchase expensive replacement headlights costing hundreds or thousands of dollars.

One can restore headlights to like-new condition by taking off the top layer of oxidized plastic. This can be achieved through polishing, wet sanding, or through the use of chemicals. Auto manufacturers would rather you go to them for a headlight repair (charging as much as $150) or headlight replacement ($100-$1,000). The top layer of plastic on the headlights contains a UV polymer that retards or slows down the aging of the plastic lens. Therefore, it is important to use a polish (containing UV polymers) or UV coating to slow down the oxidation or discoloration of the lens. Parking your car in the shade or garage, or maintaining the lens by washing, waxing, and polishing a minimum of every three months, could avoid damage to the headlight lens.

I have removed the oxidation on plastic lenses, on the following vehicles I have owned:
98 Camaro
97 Jeep

The camaro I used a common advertised chemical abrasive bought at autozone, on the Jeep I wet sanded.
BOTH produced the same level of removing the oxidation. The trick is to COAT the lenses so they don't degrade and turn yellow again. Polishing with a Plastic Polish that has uv coating will go a long way in retarding the oxidation process. Remember that these lenses are POROUS and that dirt and debris will get into the pores and further degrade the lenses.
Regular automotive polish will also help deter the oxidation process, so if your waxing your car, may as well get the headlights too.

is this a great deal?

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:56:37 +0000

i am able to get my hands on a 350 out of a 91-92 camaro for 500 dollars, it has 88,000 miles vs my 305 with 152,000

all i will need is the cpu correct? also can i do away with the cpu and go carb?

Inspection cover for 83 Firebird

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:23:55 +0000

I posted a few days ago in the "Parts Numbers" forum with no response. I am looking for an inspection cover for an 83 Firebird with a 305 and a 14060627 bell housing attached to a T5 tranny. I can't seem to find a source or even a part number. Can anyone help me? Thanks, Bill Gould

Any way to adjust idle?

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:09:26 +0000

On my 3.4? Other than the IACV. like turning a screw or something. Ill drive my car about a good 30 mins on the highway, and ill sit at idle and be idling at 1500. but ill turn it off and back on and its back to normal. The TPS is putting out the correct colts as well.

Speaker Magnets

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:53:20 +0000

So how does the fluctuation make the speaker coil move back and forth? The electromagnet is positioned in a constant magnetic field created by a permanent magnet. These two magnets -- the electromagnet and the permanent magnet -- interact with each other as any two magnets do. The positive end of the electromagnet is attracted to the negative pole of the permanent magnetic field, and the negative pole of the electromagnet is repelled by the permanent magnet's negative pole. When the electromagnet's polar orientation switches, so does the direction of repulsion and attraction. In this way, the alternating current constantly reverses the magnetic forces between the voice coil and the permanent magnet. This pushes the coil back and forth rapidly, like a piston.

When the electrical current flowing through the voice coil changes direction, the coil's polar orientation reverses. This changes the magnetic forces between the voice coil and the permanent magnet, moving the coil and attached diaphragm back and forth.

When the coil moves, it pushes and pulls on the speaker cone. This vibrates the air in front of the speaker, creating sound waves. The electrical audio signal can also be interpreted as a wave. The frequency and amplitude of this wave, which represents the original sound wave, dictates the rate and distance that the voice coil moves. This, in turn, determines the frequency and amplitude of the sound waves produced by the diaphragm.

Different driver sizes are better suited for certain frequency ranges. For this reason, loudspeaker units typically divide a wide frequency range among multiple drivers. IE; Tweeter,midrange,woofer.

ses light came on.

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:03:19 +0000

ok, this morning the ses light came on and it was backfiring thru the exhaust bad. checked the code and it is #34= MAP sensor circuit.(signal voltage low,high vacuum.)
does this mean my MAP sensor is bad? vacuum leak? or what? i don't know crap about computer controlled cars. lol thx in advance for any help .

Upgrading your car audio

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:01:44 +0000

When building or upgrading an auto sound system, the first thing most people look into are the speakers. While speakers do play a very large role in the overall sound of your system, there are many other things that must be taken into consideration if you are going to avoid "over-speakering". It's not necessary with modern technology and enclosures to take your entire trunk up with giant subwoofers to get that bone shakin' bass you want.

The Head Unit
Good sound starts at the source. And in the case of auto sound systems, this source is the head unit. This is the CD player in your dash that actually provides the signals that the rest of your system amplifies and plays back. You can have the best speakers and amps in the world, but if you pair that with a cheap head unit with a lousy DAC, your sound will be lousy. In fact, with good speakers and amps, any shortcomings in your head unit will become glaringly obvious; the speakers will faithfully reproduce everything fed to them, including the hiss caused by a cheap DAC and op amps.

The Amplifiers
Again, the best way to get killer sound is to start at the source and work your way to the output. After you have a good quality head unit that makes a clean audio signal, you need quality amplifiers to take this signal and push it still clean to your speakers. Cheap amps will often introduce noise into your signal, whether through lousy signal to noise ratios, or ground loop/alternator whine caused by poor internal or external grounds. Again, with good, speakers, any problems with your amplifiers will be very audible as your killer speakers faithfully reproduce every bit of the signal the amps provide - including any noise.

The Speakers
And finally, you should consider the speakers themselves. The biggest two things to remember are quality makes a huge difference, and bigger is not always better. If you listen to a lot of music with extremely fast bass hits, like techno, using 15" subwoofers will make your bass line muddy and indistinct. For this type of music, 10" or 12" is the largest subwoofer you want to push. If you listen to rap or other music with extremely low frequency and rhythmic bass hits, a 15" may be what you want. In all cases, mounting the speakers in a properly tuned bandpass enclosure will ensure the best quality sound.

The Speaker Enclosure
The sound you get out of the exact same speaker/amp combination will be very different depending on the enclosure you put it in. A simple sealed enclosure will provide a fairly neutral, flat response across the frequency curve of your speaker. A properly tuned bandpass enclosure can either help make up for a deficient area in your response curve, or amplify the frequencies you really want to add punch to.

While speakers are often the first thing considered when building an auto sound system, they really should be near the last on your list. Only after you have a quality head unit and amplifiers to drive them should you worry about your speakers. Even moving your current speakers into different types of enclosures can make an enormous difference in your sound quality.

Digital-to-analog = DAC............

Most modern audio signals are stored in digital form (for example MP3's and CDs) and in order to be heard through speakers they must be converted into an analog signal. DAC's are therefore found in CD players, digital music players, and PC sound cards.

3.1L v6, i want to upgrade

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 08:08:53 +0000

As stated, i have a 3.1L v6 in a 92 bird, i simply want a larger 6.
the problem i'm having is finding one that will match the mounts. A guy i talked to at Advanced Auto Parts said that a 3.4L would be the easiest to change out b/c the mounting bolts match.

i'd REALLY like a 4.3 with a supercharger, or i'd even settle for a supercharged 3.8. The guy said that neither would match the mounts.
what to do??

97-2002 interior console color

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:06:07 +0000

I have been looking for the center console ash tray lid for the automatic console, and was wondering if all 97-02 Firebirds have the same color dash/console? Was looking at the various GM parts online retailers, and none have a color choice for the console parts. So I'm guessing they are all the dark "graphite grey" color. Is that right?

Also, do Camaros 97-02 have the same color dash/console as the Firebirds?

68' Update

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:51:50 +0000

Finally have finished upholstering the trunk area. Seemed like a small job but turned out to be more working my way around the battery. Done is done.

Mike

Snow Performance Methanol-Water Injection question

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:07:14 +0000

Has anyone had any experience with Snow Performance's Methanol-water Injection systems ? I have a carberated (1050) 1973 455 engine with 12.5 to 1 compression and I'd like to be able to run on pump gas again. I've thought of thicker head gaskets and backing the timing down from 38 degree's to maybe 34 degree's but I really don't want to lose any of the horsepower (627HP) that I paid for. Any insite would be great, thanks in advance. www.snowperformance.net

Black bird stripes

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:18:40 +0000

Installed the blackbird stripes today, what do you guys think about them?

Can't shift!

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:51:00 +0000

First let me say I have an automatic. Yesterday I went to move my car and it wouldn't shift out of park no matter how hard I tried or how much I wiggled it. I tried starting it with the e brake on, tried turning the wheels and putting them straight. I tried getting a screw driver into the shifter and trying to free it but it doesn't appear to be the shifter?

Are the 70's equipped with some kind of brake lock out system? I noticed the red "brake" indicator light on the dash doesn't light up when I hit the brakes or put the e brake on.

About two weeks ago I drove it and it shifted fine. 5 days ago it caught then shifted. Yesterday locked up tight.

Turn signal

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:49:19 +0000

Recently my cars right directional stopped working when i try to use it it lights up the arrow on the dash and it just stays solid. I figured it was a grounding issue. I change the front and rear directional bulbs and cleaned the sockets i was just wondering what else i should try? Any ideas?

Are new alternators really better than the original?

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:40:15 +0000

Just put in a new (not rebuilt) alternator in my 98 Firebird v6 coupe and the paperwork said the new alternator uses new computer technology. It uses a computer chip to manage the output compared to the original alternator. They also had specific install instructions for the sequence of disconecting wires/cables to prevent damage to the chip. The new alternator went in with no problems, and it works great. In fact I notice that the voltage changes by 1 volt or so depending on load where the old one didn't.

I'm guessing that all new alternators use computer chips now. Just wondering if the new alternator is really better than the original.

BTW, the original 98 alternator failed after 31K miles and 11 years. Hope the new one does better.

starter

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:11:13 +0000

ok found out my starter was bad and went to replace it to find out that i cant get it out so i cracked the casing to get it out and the only way to get the new one back in is to drop the exhaust and never in my life have i had to do that am i missing something or what the the manual starter is alittle bit smaller and i know it would fit but would it work or is there a difference

Muffler vs. Cat-back kit

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:34:13 +0000

I just bought my 1999 Bird yesterday and I want to do only 2 things to it to make it mine and to give it a little kick. I'm going to drop in a K&N filter in the box and I want to do something with the exhaust. I see there are kits for like 400-500 bucks but I'm not going to throw that kinda money at a V6 car that I'm just driving around. It just isn't me. Do you think that a shop could at least swap out the muffler with something decent? Would that even do much for sound and noticable performance?

Spark Plug wires

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:05:06 +0000

Well i just pulled mmine off cause i bought those universial ACCEL wires. and 3 of the 6 wires ju7st snapped off. Insulation and all, I put a good bit of di electric grease on each plug. is was brown and burnt, why did this happer=n? the engine was also hot when i done this.

Turn signal/tail light

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 03:46:29 +0000

I have a 97 formula and recently I noticed that my turn signal and brake light on the passenger side (rear) is not functioning properly. Driving during the day, all the turn signals work fine. Once I turn on the driving lights, is when things go bad. The rear passenger tail light is dim when I am driving, however, when I brake, the light just goes out. Also the passenger turn signal does not work either. On the dash the right blinker does not come on either. I took both tail lights off and inspected for any loose wires, but found nothing wrong. Not sure if there is a bad wire elsewhere, or if this has anything to do with the turn signal switch. (If it is the turn signal switch why does one of my tail lights go out when I am braking?)
Please give me some suggestions on what I should do.

350 hole?

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:57:40 +0000

I recently got a hold of a working '70 firebird with a 350. The previous owner has done some strange things to it so I have a question:

Today I was installing the choke cable and I dropped the filter wingnut into an apparent hole in the engine right under the intake manifold. Is that hole supposed to be there?? Its on the passenger side of the top front of the engine. Its not a head-cover hole but is about the same size. The engine was running fine with it open. Now I'm afraid to start it because there's a nut down there. Does the hole lead anywhere? Can I leave the nut in there? It looks like I'd have to take the engine apart to get the nut out....

I can take a picture if necessary.

I need help with my driver side window

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:22:03 +0000

hi im Chris im new to working on car but i recently bought a 95 firebird t-tops and i ran in to a couple problems my driver side window doesn't go all the way up i took the door cover off but i couldnt figure out what im looking for to tighten or try to fix if anyone could explain it to me i would really appriciate it! thanks

New guy saying hello

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:59:47 +0000

Hi guys, so glad I found this site. Little about me... I've owned my 1967 Firebird for 23 years ( bought it when I was 18 ) she now has a Kauffman 455 with TH 400 and 4.11 gears. I live outside the Boston MA area and have spent the last 20 years racin and driving my Firebird. Bought a house a few years back and the car has just been resting in its nest\garage. I like going to car shows and the drag strip. Well I got to go detail a Yukon (side job= auto detailer). Great site I can't wait to explore some more. Hope to get some pic's up soon.

(((((~~~O-----o

Jon

code po300

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 12:44:16 +0000

Just wondering where to start. this is my sons car i brought it a couple of months ago for 2800 dollars. It has 120,000 miles on the body the engine supposedly has about 40,000 miles on it. came from a junk yard. I have replaced the o2 sensors and it needs the driver side mirror and needs driver side headlight motor.

Starting problem :(

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:57:03 +0000

Ok so heres the deal...

i have a 87 pontiac firebird t/a gta with a 350 5.7L TPI engine.

last weekend i had my intake manifold cleaned, new gaskets, and new bolts. i let the car sit for two days for the rtv and thread locker to set. when i came back to start it up it would crank but would not start up, cranking it for awhile caused my battery to go out so i went to get it charged, came back and tried again, still nothing, serched some more, found a fuel leak were the cold start line connects to the fuel rail, put an o ring inside, tried again, nothing. when i try to start it, everything lights up but when you turn the key to start, you hear it crank but then the lights would dim and it would sound like it would get stuck on something???. the stearing wheel is broken but has been for a while and ran well before i cleaned the intake manifold, i'm stuck and need help on this, ill upload a video of the sound the engine makes when i can for a better discription.

Car starts on its own

Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:34:13 +0000

My Firebird has been sitting for about 2 years now and I went to jumpstart it yesterday just to see if it would start. When I hooked the jumper cables up the the battery the engine immediacy started trying to turn over, the keys were in my pocket so I put them in the ignition and turn the key to the start postion and then to the off postion and the engine kept trying to turn over. The only way to stap it was to take the cables back off, I tried it another time about a hour later and the exact same thing happend.

Any Ideas?

Back light for guages blows out

Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:04:38 +0000

Hey i got a 89 firebird base model and ive been messing with my stereo system to try and get it to work right. (loose wires). everytime i poke around the wires the backlights for my guages wont come on. does someone know if i could fix myself?

Tie rod, maybe?

Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:33:29 +0000

Ok, had a couple issues come up lately, probably my car telling me it doesn't want to ggo through another new england winter.

First problem is hopefully a tie rod, but just hoping to get some input first. When turning left at speeds above 20mph+ I will get a clunking grinding noise coming from the right front tire. It only happens like 1 out of 3 times when I turn, but when it does, its very noticeable. Its not sway bar end links, or anything hanging or loose hitting something. When I had the wheels off last week, I noticed the rubber housing at the end of the tie rod was really chewed up. So does my problem sound like tie rod? Or something worse, maybe wheel bearings or ball joint?

Second problem...not really suspension related, but when going in reverse above 2k rpms, I get a grinding or hard clunking noise from right under the conter console. I also got this noise again, I put my a4 in seccond(2) and when decelerating from around 3-4k rpms and down, I would get the same noise. I thought maybe the backpressure from the exhaust was causing it to rattle and hit my driveshaft. But checked my exhaust and everything seems tight and in place...so any ideas what tat could be? I was thinking about putting the car up on stands and going in reverse to try to pin point where the noise is coming from....but I dont think thats a safe idea.

No rear brake light when headlight is on for 1994 Firebird

Fri, 13 Nov 2009 04:53:35 +0000

I need help with 1994 Firebird electrical issue. All the lights work fine when the headlight is off but when I turn on headlight the brake lights and turn signals do not work. Fuses and bulbs are fine. Any possible causes.

oil pressure sender

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:30:30 +0000

hi guys,

does anybody have any tips on removing the oil gauge snding unit for a 78, with the 305. unit is bell shaped on top of the manifold..thanks..

6X9s

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:09:20 +0000

Does anyone have any suggestions for good 6X9 speakers. I currently have 2 6X9s no amp. I want a good speaker that will give me good highs and lows. I'm probably going to get an amp next year. But I really want some good speakers.

Any help for leak along window edge of T-Top

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:56:06 +0000

[attachment=22193:FBird3.jpg] [attachment=22192:FBird 2.jpg] [attachment=22194:FBird 1.jpg]

I bought a 94 firebird with T-Tops. They don't leak from the tops themselves but from the egde where they meet the window by the mirror. Any suggestions?

TRACTION CONTROL PROBLEMS STILL

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:47:55 +0000

OK SO I TRIED TO RESOLVE THIS IN A THREAD ONCE BEFORE AND NEVER REALLY GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. I TAKE OFF AND ALL IS FINE SOMETIMES AND NOT SO FINE OTHER TIMES. HERE IS HOW IT GOES ....LOW TRAC LITE COMES ON MOTOR GOES TO IDLE AND WILL NOT ACCELARATE. IT DOESNT SPUTTER OR COUGH OR ANYTHING ELSE IT JUST WONT GO AS IF IT HAD A DISCONECTED ACCELERATOR. I REACH DOWN AND TURN TCS OFF AND ALL GOES BACK TO NORMAL. I HAVE HAD A COUPLE OF OTHER THINGS THAT NOW I AM THINKING MAY BE RELATED. I HAVE HAD A NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE CAR INTERMITTENTLY KINDA LIKE A (WWWHAAAP) IF THAT MAKES ANY SENSE AS IF MAYBE A CALIPER WAS TAKING ITS TIME TO RELEASE AFTER BRAKING. I ALSO YESTERDAY HAD A HUMMING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR AT A STAND STILL LIKE AT A LIGHT! I KNOW SLP MAKES A HARNESS TO BYPASS TCS BUT IF I DO THAT THEN I STILL HAVE SOMETHING BROKEN AND I LIKE THINGS TO WORK CORRECTLY. I KNOW THAT TCS IS INTEGRATED TO THE CRUISE CONTROL AS WELL BUT FOR THE LIFE OF ME I CANT FIGURE HOW IT SHUTS MY THROTTLE DOWN......HELP

What is a Headlight Leveling Circuit?

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:06:28 +0000

Came across this in the new Firebird service manual software I got from ebay. Its a headlight leveling circuit. I think it operates the headlight door motors to keep the headlights level. Check out the attached file and let me know what you think it does.

It is only available on Scandanavian and Europe.

Any idea whats wrong?

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:50:26 +0000

Okay. I have a 1996 v6 3.8l. And cylinders 1,4, and 6 keep missing. I changed my plugs and some of the ones i took out looked pretty dark and burnt out. But they are still missing and seem like it may have gotten worse? Could it be my plug wires? Or might it be something completely different? Let me know your ideas thanks.

error code1441

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:49:32 +0000

hello to everyone here at firebird nation,its so cool! i spent about 2 hrs reading up on this elusive code,and this morning..did the usual checks on the lines etc ,being broke as i am , i havent bought a new purge solenoid as of yet, i dont have any diagnostic equipment other than auto zone...the only good thing is that i'm an old school mechanic.....of course tryin to figure out these computer cars!! with all the talk on here about this purge canister solenoid deal, i really didnt read if it really should be tracked down? does this doo-hicky,have anything to do with fuel economy,or anything else???? figured i'd give this subject one more go aroud...thanks in advance....ohh, i have a 2000 bird

Almost ready to install the rebuilt 400

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 06:45:07 +0000

My friend Rich and I are almost ready to put my 1967 400 wz coded block back in my 67 firebird. I used a lot of after market parts from Kaufmann and pacific performance! I also purchased some items from summit, their great and the items ship fast! I also bought a water pump/timing housing off ebay! Beware... They are cast a little too long on the pan end and will cause issues! The kaufmann one I purchased later after finding the problem and spending only 40 dollars more and no problems!! The old saying you get what you pay for...LOL The only other small issue was with the tomahawk valley pan but it was fixed easilly by 4 small notches where the fuel rials meet the valley pan! But other than that it fit's great! I used a tomahawk aluminum intake which might have caused the issue! I had my machine work done at koerner racing engines in Tucson Az. Paul my machinist did an excellent job! He stamped the torque spec w/ moly lube on each point needing torqued! he also taped and put plugs in the galley clean out's. Another thing he did that helps is drilling a hole in one of the plugs in the front of the block to let more oil to the timing chain!
Pual does cryo treating on all types of metals so I had him cryo all my rotating assembly! This bonds the molicules better in the metal so there less likely to brake..

Water.. Sucks

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 02:12:24 +0000

Well, due to the damn tropical storm. Its been raining the ENTIRE day. And i drove through a small pond. i didnt even see it. and about a miles up the road, I had no power, i would idle fine. But if i hit the gas, nothing happened. I pulled over turned it off, and the car wouldnt start. I finally got it to start after about 20 mins. and it ran like crap. I would press the gas 1/4 of the way down and it would accelerate fine, then it seemed like i was gearing down, and suddenly it accelerated again, on and on. I finally got it home, let it sit for about 2 hours, and it wouldnt start. I had to press the gas down to get it to fire. and it done the same thing as before. What can i look for tonight? Its throwing codes, but i need to get it there first. The engine itself on the outside is dry, what should i look for to dry?? Thanks for your help.

New Hood on my 89

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:27:18 +0000

Not the best pics but I needed to finish out the memory stick. Popped out to the garage and took these of the new hood. 4" Glasstek fiberglass cowl hood. Not sure how much I like it yet but its starting to grow on me.

73 formula hood with shaker scoop cutout? How would that look?

Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:55:31 +0000

Found a '73 formula hood with a cutout for a shaker scoop on craigslist. I love both the 70-76 formula scoops, and I also love the shaker. Do you think you can have both and it look good? Or do you think it would look ridiculous? I mean, that is two different styles of intakes...

Have you ever seen one before?

MS3 cam installed

Tue, 10 Nov 2009 06:31:39 +0000

well sry havent ben around as of late. no excuses just havent been. but on to the cam. last week me and a couple buddys put a new MS3(magic stick 3) cam in my car. just for those who are curious, its specs are 237/242 605/610. i also put duel valve springs, comp hardened pushrods, 160 thermy in with it. it took about 26 hours over 2 days. it was all going good, we had everything off and new cam in in 4 hrs,..... then we dropped a cam bolt in the oil pan. we tried to get it with a magnet but it went to the very bottow, so we couldnt get it. which ment we had to take the oil pan off. sooo up goes the engine and down goes the k member and out gos the stearing yoke. so we finally get it off and out, so we put the oil pan back and bolt the k member back up. SURPRISE you cant put the stearing back togeather with out the k member down. SOOO down it goes again, then when putting it back up i snap a k member bolt. but we get that all done. and then it runs http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jy0FYs3M-V4. so the next day i try to drive it and it starts ticking BAD. so we go back and pull the valve covers off and the rackers are way loose so we tighten them to the right spec and were all good again. and here are some pics

at the begining just got the air and egr off

one valve cover down

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putting cam in

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lifting the engine

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most important part of a build food and break time

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intalling the new springs

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fun time that was. i got it dyno tuned at speed inc located in shaumburg il las thursday. it made 420rwhp and 368rwtq. now i just need some tires cus i spin all day long haha

Inspection cover part number please

Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:57:15 +0000

I am looking for an inspection cover (and part number) for an 83 Firebird bell housing 14060627 mated to a T5 . Are they readily available? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Gould

question......

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 22:28:13 +0000

what can i buy to keep my wheels from wheel hopin i kno traction bars but havent seen any for our cars... are they pretty much universal?

True-Trac (torsen) or Auburn rear?

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:53:01 +0000

Trying to determine what is the best LSD for my '98 Firebird V6 auto application. I don't race the car, its my daily driver, and occassionally lay some rubber, but no shock loads. I'm changing the gears from 3.08 to 3.73 for better performance and easier towing. The LSD is really needed for snow and wet boat ramps. I also keep my cars 7 to 10 years putting about 200,000 miles on them. So I want to make changes that last.

The popular LSD's seem to be Auburn and Tru-trac.

The Auburn is cheaper at about $340. But it has clutches and they do wear and need maintenance over time. I think 60K is pushing it on a clutch LSD before a clutch rebuild is in order.

The True-trac Torsen (all gear) diff has no clutch, and should not need maint. But is sells for about $390. It also does not need the common Posi friction modifier that is added to cluch LSD's.

I am leaning toward the True-Trac for smooth performance and no-rebuilds.

Just want some input from owners that have either and their experiences with them.

Also, any links to a discount retailer is greatly apperciated.

Thanks,

Mark

1994 pontiac firebird radio install problems

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 12:36:12 +0000

ok here is a crappy one basically i just bought a 94 pontiac firebird love the car a few minor setbacks but i started installing my stereo 4 12s 1000watt amp and some 9in speakers got all that done up to the radio i removed the old crappy one and when i did that the old owner decided to hot wire all the wires basically cut twist and eletrical tape so pretty much i have a nice newe radio and a piece that hooks up to the radio but i have to cute the wires from the one piece and try to link them mind you its the part that connects my radio to the car so the piece has the name of which wire is which but the old car ones dont and there are some that the colors look faded and others that have mutliple colors like 2 yellow and 2 grey i believe and i looked up a diagram only shows words and cant figure which yellow and all the others are supposed to link i tried them all a mutlitude of ways and the display on my radio wouldnt turn on and last i tried it it worked and the old crappy after market one i removed was working as well so idk what to do possibly a picture of what colors match the old 94 one or if anyone who lives in michigan near lansing and grand ledge could come look lol but i could really use any help because i have to work at 530 pm so i have 12 hours to try and get this all up or im going to have to just tape down all the damn wires and hope its good to drive to work thanks for any help i get i will be checking the replies religiously thanks a bunch

Hard to crank the window up

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 05:50:52 +0000

My 94 drivers side window is a pain to roll up. And when i roll it down all teh way, I canhear kinda a grinding sound, but it will still go down the rest of the way, like 3 inches from the bottom. we cant order a regulator for manual windows at work, what can it be?? and what all do i nee to do to pull the door panal off? and take the handle off for the window

MSD Coil

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:49:06 +0000

Are they worth 50 bucks? Would bosch 7MM wires handle the power?

My 1980 Trans Am Project

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 00:52:23 +0000

Hey all! Finally, I have pics of my Trans Am. I love 2nd gens, as my dad back in Maryland has a '73 455 Formula, but I am a college student and can only afford to get one one piece at a time. I bought a 1980 T/A rolling chassis (with no underbody or quarter panel rust)for $1000, and bought a Pontiac 301 engine that ran for $150(Temporary engine). I dropped it in, and now I am hooking it up. If you see anything missing that I might not have noticed, let me know, and if you can tell me where some of the wires go, I'd greatly appreciate it (None were labeled when I bought the car).

I'm also looking for a a 301 shaker base if anyone has one for sale. I'm in Fort Worth Texas.

Thanks for looking. I cant wait to get her running!!!

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Derrick/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png

When I just bought her as a rolling chassis. I had just rained so the paint looked better than it is lol

Now, with the bumper off and the temporary 301 engine in it.

The shaker is just sitting on the intake right now. I don't have the shaker base and I'm rebuilding the carb, so it is off as well.

Yup. The driver side fender needs replaced.

The water neck was corroded so I figured I should replace it for a better seal.

And I think the chrome looks hilariously out of place on the crusty intake. I need to clean and paint it.

I think these wires go to the AC compressor? (Not yet bolted on)

What is this? Sorry to be so amateur...

Lotsa AC components missing. Is there anything missing here that is necessary to run the car? The heater core is fine, sorry I didn't get a pic of it.

PLZ HELP ME WIN!

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 22:36:34 +0000

http://www.brickfish.com/Pages/PhotosAlbums/PhotoView.aspx?qsi=23839588

this is a scholarship thing nd i entered my car
i hope u guys arent ashamed by it but plz help me win the $500 i can use it for skoo or if anything to fix my car so plz im askin everyone to help me out

plz and thank u guys and gals in advanced

To Relace Body Panels or Fix Them?

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 17:14:37 +0000

Recently I purchased a my first old car, a 69 firebird (350 auto with a/c) that was a California car. The frame and undercarriage is very clean and solid. The interior is good but not excellent and the body has had a some work done to the left rear corner and the right rear fender from a ding or two. Whoever fixed the body didn't replace the fenders or back panel. They made it look ok from about 20 feet but the repairs are more noticeable as you get closer. .Currently I would say its an ok driver but I need to fix its appearance up a bit.

Questions are:

A good body man said he could fix up the repairs and paint it for about $4500.00. I am wondering if it would be better to replace the panels altogether instead of repairing the repairs. Would putting replacement panels on increase its value over the long run if its done properly? Its it that much more work to replace panels as compared to straightening out a poor job?

They removed the black vinyl roof when they repainted it. Would you put the vinyl roof back on the car or are they a source of constant problems over time? (I live in Ontario Canada where the climates can be extreme.)

I know I will have more questions as time goes on but I am just starting to plan fixing this up. Not looking for a trailer car but more of a good looking driver.

Any thoughts or advice?

I bought a 98 parts car...what can I keep for my 96?

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 01:56:02 +0000

Well first off hello all! Im a new Firebird Nation member and this is my first post....like the site found lots of helpfull info. Well anyhoo, I bought a 1996 Firebird a couple of months ago via cregslist for $1700 and was pretty happy with it. But it had its quarks: driver window problems, NO muffler, cracked interior, suspension problems, and some other minor stuff as usual for a car of this age. So I found a flipped 98 for $500 that had just about everything I wanted with the same color interior. I wanted to know what parts can I keep from this car? I am in the proses of striping the console and dash...will this bolt on to my old one? I herd it could be done. It also has rear disk brakes can I swap em for my drums? Oh yea The car starts and runs...even the A/C was ice cold! Could I also swap the engine and tranny? Any input would be helpfull thanks!

Billet shift Knobs

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 01:27:03 +0000

Does anyone know where I can get a set of Billet climate control knobs for a 94 firebird? I saw a picture of one with them on it but can't seem to find it again.

Best headers?

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:52:14 +0000

Hello. I was wondering some opinions on headers for an LT1. I am looking to get improved performance as well as a nice deep sound. I am just unsure which is better for what i want to achieve. I know there's gotta be thousands of members who have installed headers on their LT1's. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

HEATER VACUUM HOSE ROUTING FOR '77 TRANS AM

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 14:53:29 +0000

CAN ANYONE GUIDE ME TO A WEBSITE OR KNOW THE ROUTING FOR THE HEATER VACUUM HOSE ROUTING FOR A 1977 TRANS AM?

twin scrolls on a SBC carbed

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 04:50:10 +0000

so im considering a turbo induction system for my second firebird. the engine at this time is a 350 i have not done anything to it so its a good starter block with std. bore. I have been looking around and checking out things and i kinda want to do it. iv done efi, supercharged, and just NA engine but never done a turbo car before. has anyone here worked with turbos on a SBC carb engine? if so how did it go was it worth it?

Progress

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 04:21:35 +0000

Hey y'all I have been real busy with all kinds of crazy lately(crazy ex g/f, crazy racing,crazy projects,And more crazy ex!) But I will get back to posting like I used to soon. But I thought I could stop by and update the progress on the 69! I am still shopping for interior and chrome(my favorite color!). I got the paint on it finally and thought y'all might like to see!

Spark Plugs

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 04:05:33 +0000

Well, the title says it all. Im also curiuous what would be the best for my 94 3.4. Im runnign ACdelco Part #1 right now, are autolight iridiums any good for this motor? will it help with power or efficiency?

Replacing weather stripping on a 69 2dr Hardtop

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 03:43:23 +0000

I recently bought a 69 firebird hardtop that needs the weather stripping around the doors and in the doors replaced. The new stripping came with the car. Just looking for some tips on how to R&R it as this is my first project car.

Any help or instructions would be appreciated.

screwed

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 02:51:58 +0000

So after months of searching i finally found an Lt1 for my 94 formula. Well it turns out its a 4.3 L99. I should have done more research before buying but its too late now. So what I'm wondering is can I drop that motor in my car plug it in and make this car run so I can sell it. I love this car but it seems every time I drive it something breaks.

Windscreen wont demist bad design or any ideas?

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:18:32 +0000

Bit of a strange one here.

ive got a 95 Lt1 and the days are getting shorter wetter and darker here. I find the windscreen mists up really bad and even with the heaters on maximum they dont seem to work. theres a big one in the middle of the dash but none where the windscreen meets the dash.

Is this a common problem due to i dont know the angle of the screen position of blower?

worth mentioning my car was sat for 18mths when i bought her so did a lot of work to get her working, opti etc, reckon letting it air will help? Getting dangerous now.

headlight miss aligned

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 23:26:54 +0000

my headlight just started to make the dreadfull grinding noise so i replaced the plastic gear with a brass one and hammerd down the little tabs to prevent the motor from moving. after i replaced the gear the headlight doesnt match up to the hood and fender now. it still goes up and down at the right speend and doesnt grind anymore. ots not a huge issue but every time i look at the car now its stareing me in the face. Has this happend to anyone before.

Lets play a game!

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 20:52:42 +0000

Right by my turn signal lever, everything works except the left turn signal wont cancel itself after i turn, what could it be?

annoying "wahh wahh" noise

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 15:41:26 +0000

Hey guys,I have a 93 firebird formula and for awhile now its had this real annoying wahh wahh noise when i drive,like it sounds as if i have super swampers on my firebird lol,nobody can seem to figure out what it is,its not my tires or my wheel bearings or anything because i've noticed that it doesnt coast like that,the noise dies down alot when i let off the gas so i'm thinkin its my drive shaft or somethin,and so my question is to you,do firebirds and trans ams have problems like that with driveshafts bc i seem to recall my dad sayin somethin like that but idk,If you could shed a lil light on the problem that would be great.....If you need me to try to explain the noise further i can probly to that too

engine sitting on stand

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 08:54:05 +0000

I was wondering if anyone knows how long an engine can be sitting on a stand before it needs a rebuild or what needs to be done to get it ready to be run. I traded for an lt1, its been sitting on a stand for atleast a year (guy cant member for sure when he pulled it) i just want to make sure i dont do the swap and have issues. Any suggestions on what to do, what to check first etc etc. thanks

3.1 to V8 ?'s

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 03:18:20 +0000

ok so i have a '91 firebird 3.1 and i really like the car its in good shape and it runs great but of course id like to get more power out of it. now i have spent a few hours reading here and there and it seems that if your looking to add more hp everyone is pro v8 swaps as opposed to fixing up a v6. then again it seems that everyone that does have some kind of idea to add more hp to a v6 such as a turbo or supercharger only mention the 3.4 or 3.8 engines so i dont know if there just arent any performance parts for a 3.1 that exist or if the mods for a 3.4/3.8 will work on my 3.1. now i dont know a whole lot about cars but i have swapped out the engine on my bronco II which was actually pretty easy but it was also a carb engine so i didnt have to worry about ECM wires or anything like that. if i decided to go with a v8 let say a carburated one the i could just eliminate the ECM and wire harness right? but then would i need a different transmission as well or would the same one work? also other than the exhaust being different what else would i need? all of your help and input will be really appreciated and thanx in advance.

-omar

Should i get a new firebird?

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 22:25:35 +0000

hey guys, i drive a 2000 pontiac grand prix coupe.

I love that car to death but i just think its time for an upgrade. So besides power would this be an upgrade for me? Im looking a 4th generation firebird like a (1999 to2002) that is in good condition so i would appreciate your thoughts on this. Also i was looking around but couldnt really find the difference between the formula and the trans am. Some other things that i would like to know is are these cars easy to mod and how are the v8's on engine life?

Thanks guys!!

heater hose repair

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 21:38:51 +0000

the plastic flow restricter in my heater hose assembly broke. i knew hoses shouldn't cost 171$.
after scott-leanne set me up with the fitting numbers it was an easy, and better fix.

1 gm part# 12570305 adapter list 42.37
1 gm part# 24504476 adapter list 26.10 i found these for 54.18 online.
1 5/8 to 3/4 hose adapter i had one in the bottom of my box.
3 feet each 5/8 and 3/4 heater hose also from my box.
6 hose clamps
2 4mm X 3/4" bolts with flats and locks. i also used locktite.

there may be straight adapters available, i couldn't find 'em.
one adapter has the flow restricter, whatever it's called. make sure to put in the right port.
adapter outputs are 5/8 and one of the core tubes is 3/4 thats what the hose adapter is for.

change them hoses before they let ya' down boys.
nick

cold air intake?

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:22:34 +0000

i could not find a quality cold air intake for a 1996 3.8l firebird...is there a special website or something?

lt5 swap

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 19:20:33 +0000

my uncles 89 zr1 was stolen last night out of his garage and was then wrecked while the cops were tryin to recover it. it has an lt5 motor i have never herd of it before and was wondering if anyone know anything about the motor and alos would this motor be able to be swapped into a fourth gen trans am

Clutch problems

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 14:44:14 +0000

I have an 02, 5 speed. Had the clutch replaced 2 months ago. Now, I am having a problem getting it out of first gear, without a distinct vibration in the car. It is worse when the engine is warm. Mechanic want to replace the clutch, but I don't think it is the clutch. Can anyone help?

1967 400 rebuild

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 05:40:33 +0000

I am rebuilding a 1967 pontiac 400 and I was wondering if using a stock windage tray and a 74 oil pan with a baffle would cause any problems?
I put a piece of tape folded aover flat and it stuck to the oil pan in the baffle area meaning I have a clearance issue possibly!

Thanks For any input to this topic..
Bill

block date codes and specific to year displacement

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 04:31:46 +0000

Any help would be appreciated in trying to figure this combination out. I think that I am on track here.

The block in my 68' is dated L067, and my result thru research is 06DEC67 manufacture date. I found this cast number on the driver side of the block next to the distributor. The engine casting code is 9790079. 1968/69 blocks carry this casting code (I found it on the passenger side of the block next to the #8 cylinder). The number stamped into the front (passenger side) of the block is 296736 YN. On gmclassicmusclecars.com it tells me that he 1968 "YN" is a 350/265hp. The heads are "47" (350/265hp) heads with build dates of A229 and D099 (22JAN69) and (09APR69). The number stamped next to the timing cover on the passenger side is 28L113103 (also confirming that it is a 68' block installed in a Firebird at the Van Nuys, CA plant). My synopsis is that it is a 68 Pontiac 350/265hp engine with 69' Pontiac 350/265hp heads. Is this correct?

The car has had some engine work done to it before I got it (and great work it was, runs like new), but I only have documentation of the cam, rockers, timing chain and rings. I have no idea what else has taken place? are there any short cuts (short of complete disassembly) to find any changes in bore/stroke? How good of a guess could be made from a dyno?

Thanks,

Mike

How much is my Firebird worth?

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 03:29:04 +0000

Hi all:

My wife and I have a baby on the way, which is going to necessitate selling her 2002 Firebird. I'm trying to get an idea of how much it is worth. It's a V6, auto, 96k miles, Monsoon stereo, and 16" chrome wheels (which I believe was a dealer-installed option). Each of the rear fenders has a parking lot ding, which could probably be fixed with paintless dent repair. Kelley Blue Book value is $5310 (good condition), $4710 (fair condition, which may be closer to reality). Does that sound about right? What have similar cars gone for in y'all's experience?

Any advice is appreciated!

-Roger

"Unexplainable" Overheating

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 23:09:36 +0000

I have a 99 Pontiac Firebird with 130k on it. For about a month, it has been overheating while city driving, primarily when going under 30mph or at stop lights. I was told my water pump, radiator, hoses, anti-freeze were all fine. My shop had me replace the thermostat, but that didn't fix the problem. The mechanics say that looking at my car they are unable to see any problem that could be causing it, and that they are also unable to replicate the problem (which is bull since it overheats within 20 minutes of driving it).

I'm a car novice in an extreme sense, so I've done some research and I think that there's a problem with the radiator fan. It seems like that is fairly common. However, my shop will not check in to that. Instead, they are playing a guessing game and want me to replace my 4 year old water pump for $360. Their guess is that the blades of the water pump have rusted or broken off, so that it is intermittently working. From what I have researched, this almost never occurs in cars espceially in a water pump that is 4 years old. I also found out this is a much more labor intensive job than anything with the radiator fan, so I think they might be trying to gouge me for labor charges.

I did a little experiment with playing with the ac, and when the ac is on the car stays cooler longer, then suddenly the temp shoots up. When the heat is on, the temp get hotter faster, then slowly levels off. I know with a radiator fan the ac will kick the fan on, so does the car getting hot tell me that it's not the fan? Is there an easy way to test it in the shop?

This is the only half-way reputable shop within 45 minutes of me, so I don't have the option of going somewhere else. They also warranty all of their work, so if the water pump is not the cause they have to refund the money. If you were me, would you make them investigate the radiator fan, or just let them replace the water pump? Any other suggestions on what it might be are also appreciated!

Painted my rims

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 21:52:12 +0000

Well, i wanted to paint my rims. and i did lol. Flat black.

Its still drying in that pic, im still waiting on the front to dry so i can put them on lol, I also killed 2 birds with one stone today, I rotated the tires, it needed it bad!!

I also hit a pot hole this morning, and i didnt think anything of it... Untill i pulled the right rear off and bamm i found this

Thank god i painted my rims today lol. I got a used Bridgestone tire with a little bit better tread than the one i had for 25 bucks

More pics coming when i get them on!!! hopefully in the next 30 mins

Special for black cars

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:34:13 +0000

<- shot this photo in the store today.

I know there are several waxes for red/orange/yellow cars I also have seen some for white/grey/silvers color cars but they have complete kits for black cars
has anyone tested any of these yet???

I know there are other out there that are suppose to make black shine deeper... -> ( Luster )
But im kind of scared to spend / waste the $$$ (20-30 dollars ) to find out it works the same as a regular wax product.

Brake troubles.

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:25:04 +0000

As I was driving last night, I had to brake pretty hard coming into a toll booth. Just before I came to a stop I heard a noise that sounded like I had a flat tire and it was hitting the wheel well. I crept over to the side of the road and I found that my brake caliper was rubbing the inside of my rim.

The problem: one of the two bolts that hold the caliper to the axle is missing. I don't know where it went to or how it came off but its gone. Anyone know the best place to find a new bolt (I would imagine that I cant just go to Napa and pick one up)? And should I use loctite when putting it back on?

I will get some pictures soon of the damage to my rim.

'95 Firebird parts?

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:19:23 +0000

Ok, so with the '95 having a cracked head, I was going to put it up for sale / parts before i post a topic in the correct place on the forum and such i was curious if anyone would be interested in parts?

what are these items?

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:11:48 +0000

Here is a newbe question :what are these 2 electrical items. Thank you this is my first attempt to do this.Thanks

REAL 455 HD?

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 15:33:19 +0000

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, maybe should be in "part numbers" but...

Does anyone know the actual production numbers for the pontiac 455 hd 4 bolt main motors or how many may be left? I bought a block from someone that I trust wouldn't lie to me and needed some cash (but could be wrong) that he said is an original stock 455 hd. It is definetly a GM 455, definetly has a factory-appearing 4 bolt main, and still has original looking pontiac blue paint on it. According to him, its a '74 motor. It has VERY little surface rust and is in great shape. I know they are rare, I have heard there are only a few hundred left that haven't been cracked, abused, or bored.

Does anyone know what the stampings on the motor should say on these or how to identify it for sure?

I bought the motor with intentions of building it for my 73' but I'm thinking about either selling it or holding on to it and putting an LS7 in my car. I will probably keep it but was wondering, does anybody know what it's worth assuming its original and the cylinder walls havent been touched?

Tail light refinishing?

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:33:49 +0000

Hey guys,

I hit the jackpot yesterday and found a decent pair of honeycomb tail lights at the pick and pull yard. got them for $75.

Anyhow they do have some small scratches in them. I tried using some plexiglass, plastic and light scratch remover
with a little success, but would like to make them look real good. I just used the polish by hand. didn't want to ruin them.

Has anyone buffed these with a ball or pad? Wet sanded?
a step by step would be cool if someone has done this!

Thanks,

Mike

Speedometer goes 10mph over actual speed

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 04:38:20 +0000

been that way since i put the new transmission in. its a 4l60e auto on a 97 formula. the tail shaft that the new tranny came with was wrong, so we took the one off of the old trans and placed it on the new one. at first it ran 15mph over, but now its down to ten. its been about 2 months since it was installed. the speedometer doesnt get stuck in one place then jump up, it just rises faster than it should. anyone know what could cause this? i have been told it was the spedo gear, but replacement gears range from 17 teeth to over 40 teeth, so i have no idea which one would be needed to correct the problem, if that is indeed the problem.

thanks

Compatible PCM list?

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:07:43 +0000

A couple of weeks ago I found a complete list of compatible/interchangeable PCM's by year and model. I apparently didn't save the link and now I'm kicking myself because I want to buy a cheap PCM from a Monte or Corsica to use while my Firebird PCM is sent out for tuning.

If anyone has the link, or a list of interchangeable PCM's, please post.

(I hate it when I lose links)

Performance upgrades 305TBI and advice?

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 23:25:35 +0000

Hello Everyone!

I am now the proud owner of a 1991 Pontiac Firebird! She's a little rough around the edges and needs a lot of work, but I plan on whipping it into shape pronto-style! Here's my question. I have a stock 305TBI in the beast. After cleaning up some vacuum leaks and a MAP sensor, it's running pretty well. I'm looking for cheap bolt-on upgrades to maximize the motor's efficiency. I'm looking for torque and a slight bit of economy...I also don't have a whole lot of cash to invest as of yet.

What do you think would be a good couple of inexpensive performance upgrades that would provide the most bang-for-buck???

I'm also a day or so away from replacing the door with one from a similar year Camaro. Does anyone have any pointers?

Thanks a lot! Look forward to any response!

Michael

(pics to come)

Black salad shooters

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 20:15:20 +0000

So winter's coming and I'm going to take my 'hawk wheels off and put the salad shooters back on again and was thinking about spraying them black. Anyone have and pics? I'm on the fence about how they'll look.

Thanks!

header install

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 16:15:45 +0000

how hard is it to install some headers on a 93-97 4th gen?looks to me it's kinda tight in there so idk if you would hafta drop the engine or if you could just put em on with relative ease.

headlight motor problem

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:47:28 +0000

Hey guys,I have a question,I've been looking at this 96 trans am thats for sale and everything is good on it when i looked...but when i realized i didnt look at the headlights i flipped em up and they were fine but when i flipped em down they tried to keep goin and it was grinding real loud and it did it everytime i flipped em down so my question is,Do you think that the problem would be the headlight motors or just the headlight module that controls them?If it's not both the motors then i will prolly buy the car and just get the module but if not,two motors is a lil out my price range right now..Any advice would be helpful,thanks

Oil Change light?

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 11:04:11 +0000

As of 2 weeks ago the "Oil Change" light in my '02 V6 3.8 firebird has been coming on for about 3mins when I start the car. I have checked all the fluids and everything is fine.
So I went and check out a '99 firebird at a car lot, same engine and everything, when I started that car its "oil change"light also came on! I didnt have this problem when I bought the car (June '09). I have been told that in fourth gens its like common for the "check engine" light to stay on with out there being a problem,I dont know if thats true or not but i know alot of people whos lights also stay on in their 4th gens and both my 4th gen cars lights stay on.
Im thinking maybe something electrical? Any ideas?

Electrical Troubleshooting

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 08:39:45 +0000

As I read through the forums, I notice a lot of questions concerning electrical failures, intermitent operation, or lighting acting up. Electrical power is the heart of automobliles. Any problem having to do with electrical is almost alway's immediately noticeable. Any of the above mention problems, will usually render a car inoperative. Electrical problems are one of the most common problems in old cars, ranging from small annoying items like windshield wipers that seem to have a mind of their own (or are responding to rain in remote parts of the world!) to major problems like ignition coils that won't ignite, or fuel pumps that can't put out. Everybody's heard legends about the Local electric shop. They are also one of the most expensive repairs you can pay for, since most of the bill will be spent in diagnosis. Very little in the way of replacement parts are usually required to fix electrical problems, since they are typically a result of inoperative circuits. However, because of a lack of understanding and knowledge, most car owners are unwilling or afraid to take on diagnosis of electrical problems themselves, preferring to shell out hard-earned cash to a mechanic who may not have much more ability than them to fix the problem!

Yet it is the very nature of electrical faults that makes them just scream out to be fixed by the novice DIY-er, since little in the way of tools or expertise is necessary, and the results of a little time spent in some serious diagnosis can be huge, not just in the problems fixed, but also in the ego boost received! A little bit of time spent understanding the factory wiring diagrams (as seen either in a Haynes manual or, even better, the factory manual) and a small investment in a multimeter that will read both voltage and Ohms, at a minimum, will reap great rewards. You will find yourself no longer willing to put up with minor oddities in your car, such as a heater fan that only comes on in one switch position, when you know that a little effort with some sandpaper will have it working as good as new!

This then is the intent of this post; to uncover the mysteries of the electrical circuits in our cars, to describe how this knowledge can be used to predict how the circuit should function, and how circuit behaviour observed using the multimeter can be used to isolate the problem(s).

I have been doing Industrial I&E work for almost 30 years, and in this time I have tried to explain on occasion to friends or family, how to troubleshoot their various problems. Most times I am told that if they new what I was talking about, they would fix the problem themselves. So I end up going to their home or cars and do the repairs myself. As my butt is getting old, I have chosen to try to explain, as simply as I can, how to troubleshoot your car. So let's get started.

All electrical circuits require voltage to operate the components connected to that circuit. So if there is no voltage, there is no function. The first order of business when troubleshooting electrical problems, therefore, is to check for the presence of voltage at the load point in the circuit.

The load point is the element that the circuit is supposed to power, such as a light bulb, wiper motor, blower motor, idle stop solenoid or whatever. And, all you need to quick check it is a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light that glows when there is voltage. A voltmeter is the best tool for this purpose because it will give you an exact reading, but a test light is OK for performing quick voltage checks. I use a Fluke 289 to troubleshoot with as I need a dependable meter for my line of work, but a meter from a store such as Wally World will suffice.

Suppose you find no voltage at the load point. Ah ha, you have discovered your first clue about the problem. Check the fuse, fuse link that protects the circuit, or the power relay that supplies voltage to the circuit.

If the problem is a blown fuse, replacing the fuse may restore power temporarily, but unless the underlying cause for the overload is found and corrected, your "fix" probably will not last. Whatever you do, do not substitute a fuse of greater capacity. A larger fuse may be able to handle a greater load but the wiring and the rest of the circuit cannot. A circuit designed for a 20 amp fuse is designed to handle a maximum of 20 amps. Period.

A faulty circuit breaker or an open relay will have the same effect as a blown fuse. Circuit breakers are often used to protect circuits that may experience brief periods of overloading such as an A/C compressor clutch.

The easiest way to check a circuit breaker is to bypass it with a jumper wire. Your jumper wire should have a replaceable inline fuse to protect the circuit against damage. Use a fuse of no greater capacity than what the circuit itself uses. If you do not know, use a 5- or 10-amp fuse to be safe. If the circuit works when you bypass the circuit breaker, you have isolated the problem. Replace the circuit breaker.

This same basic test can also be used to check a questionable relay. A relay is nothing more than a remote switch that uses an electromagnet to close a set of contact points. When the relay magnet is supplied with voltage, the points close and battery voltage is routed through the main circuit. Relays are often used in circuits to reduce the amount of wiring that is required, and to reduce the current that flows through the primary control switch. Thus, a relatively low amperage (make that cheap) switch, timer or sensor can be used to turn a much higher capacity relay on and off.

VOLTAGE CHECKS
Every electrical device also requires a certain amount of voltage to operate. A light bulb will glow with reduced brilliance as the voltage drops. But for some components, there is a threshold voltage below which it will not operate at all. A starter motor may crank the engine more slowly with reduced voltage but, if the battery voltage is too low, it may not crank at all. Minimum threshold voltage is especially critical for such components as solenoids (which need a certain amount of voltage to overcome spring resistance), relays, timers, buzzers, horns, fuel injectors (which are solenoids, too) and most electronics (the ignition module, computer and radio).

Checking the load point for full battery voltage will tell you whether or not sufficient voltage is getting through, and to do that you need a voltmeter. The battery itself should be at least 70 percent charged and read 12.43 volts or higher (12.66 volts is fully charged). If the battery is low, it should be recharged and tested. The output of the charging system should also be checked, and be about 1.5 to 2.0 volts higher than battery base voltage (around 14 to 14-1/2 volts). If the battery is OK, your voltmeter should read within 1 volt of battery voltage at the circuit load point in any given circuit.

Low circuit voltage is usually caused by excessive resistance at some point in the wiring. Usually this means a loose or corroded connector, a faulty switch or relay or poor ground. To find the point of high resistance, use your voltmeter to do a "voltage drop test" at various points throughout the circuit. If the voltmeter shows a drop of more than a 0.4 volts across any connector, switch or ground contact, it means trouble. Ideally, the voltage drop should be no more than 0.1 volts.

If low voltage is detected in a number of circuits, do a voltage drop test across the battery terminals and engine/body ground straps. Loose or corroded battery cables and ground straps are a common cause of voltage-related problems. Clean and tighten the battery cables and/or ground straps, as needed.

Sometimes undersized wiring can cause low voltage. It is not something you will find in many original equipment wiring circuits, but it is a common mistake that is made in many do-it-yourself wiring installations for aftermarket accessories. The higher the amp load in the circuit, the larger the required gauge size for the wiring.

CONTINUITY
Every electrical circuit requires a complete circuit to operate. Voltage to the load will not do any good unless there is also a complete ground path to the battery. The ground path in the case of all metal-bodied cars is the body itself. In plastic-bodied cars, a separate ground wire is needed to link the load to the chassis. In either case, a poor ground connection has the same effect as an open switch. The circuit is not complete so current does not flow.

To check wiring continuity, you need an ohmmeter or a self-powered test light. An ohmmeter is the better choice because it displays the exact amount of resistance between any two test points. A test light, on the other hand, will glow when there is continuity but the intensity of the bulb may vary depending on the amount of resistance in the circuit. But it is OK for making quick checks.

Never use an ohmmeter to check resistance in a live circuit.To check live voltage, you need a VOLTMETER. Make sure there is no voltage in the circuit by disconnecting it from its power source, by pulling the fuse or by testing downstream from the circuit switch or relay. Ohmmeters cannot handle normal battery voltage and, should you accidentally complete a circuit through the meter, you may damage your meter.

Ohmmeters are great for measuring circuit resistance but you have to use care when checking electronic components. An ohmmeter works by applying a small voltage through its test leads, and this voltage can be enough to damage some electronic components (such as the oxygen sensor). Special high impedance 10,000 mega-ohmmeters should be used for electronics testing.

Tracing wires is not as easy as it looks because the circuit wire will sometimes change color after passing through a connector, switch or relay. Always refer to a wiring diagram when possible. This way you will know how the wires are routed and what colors are used

FINDING ELECTRICAL FAULTS
Now that we have covered some basic troubleshooting techniques, what is the best way to find an electrical fault fast? It depends on the nature of the problem.

For a "dead" circuit, the first thing to look for is voltage at the load point. Use your voltmeter or 12-volt test light to check for voltage. If there is voltage, the problem is either a bad ground connection or the component itself has failed. Check the ground connection with your ohmmeter. If the ground connection is good, the fault is inside the component. If there is no voltage in the "hot" wire to the component, then the problem is in the wiring. Trace back through the fuse panel (or relay or circuit breaker) until you find voltage. Now look for an open or short that is preventing the current from reaching its correct destination.

Next comes bad connections. The resistance created by a loose or corroded connection will cause a voltage drop that can have an adverse effect on circuit components. An ohmmeter can be used to check non-powered circuit connections for excess resistance, but a better method is to use a voltmeter to check for a voltage drop across a connection.

"voltage drop test with a voltmeter"

The voltmeter leads are connected on either side of the circuit component or connection that is being tested. If a connection is loose or corroded, it will create resistance and produce a reading on the voltmeter. As stated earlier, a voltage drop of more than 0.4 volts means trouble, and ideally it should be 0.1 volts or less.

The worst kind of electrical problem to troubleshoot is an intermittent one. Everything works fine in the shop but as soon as the customer gets the car back it starts to act up again. An intermittent open or short is usually the result of something heating up and breaking (or making) contact, or something that is loose and is making periodic contact.

Loose or corroded connections and switches are often responsible for this kind of problem, so try jiggling the wires and circuit switch to see if it changes circuit voltage or resistance. A wire that is rubbing and has chaffed away some of its insulation can make intermittent contact causing a short, so again wiggling suspicious wires will often reveal the problem.

Temperature sensitive intermittent shorts or opens can be the hard to identify because you frequently have to simulate the exact circumstances that cause them to happen. Sometimes you can assume what is happening by the nature of the problem. But it is always more satisfying (and assuring) to duplicate the problem so you know for sure what is wrong.

When does the problem occur? Does it only happen when the engine is hot or after the circuit has been on for a period of time? Using a hot air gun or hair dryer to heat wires, connectors, switches and relays can sometimes help identify troublesome components.

Environmental factors often play havoc with electrical systems, too. Road splash or water leaking through a crack in the cowl, under the windshield or around a grommet can sometimes short out a circuit. Look for obvious signs of corrosion or leakage, and if you find none check the condition of nearby weather seals.

A final note on repairing electrical faults: When splicing wires do not just twist them together and wrap electrical tape around the connection. Use a solderless crimp-on connector, or twist the wires together, solder them and use shrink wrap electrical insulation tubing to seal the repair.

squealing

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 06:07:33 +0000

I have a 95 pontiac firebird 3.4l sfi auto, when i start it up i get a squealing noise, after bout 20-30 mins the noise will go away, however if i put wd-40 on the belt tensioner the noise stops till i stop spraying, i replaced the tensioner and same thing still happened, so i spun all the pulleys and noticed the alternator wasnt smooth and made a small noise, replaced that and my car still makes the noise, what could cause this to happen? btw this started after i did the heads and the timing chain, also if anyone has info on a dtc 36-igniton control 24 times signal malfunction, that would b great, i would appreciate it if someone could help me find a diagnostic flow chart/possible things to check/ proper steps (i.e. what a sensor should read, o2 sensor below 1 volt) again would b greatly appreciated

Turn signal & Brake light

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:25:47 +0000

Turn Signal and Brake Lights

Turn signal and brake light bulbs are standard for all makes and models of cars with a few variations. The two most common bulbs are the 1157 and 1156 bulbs. The 1157 is usually used in applications where brake light and turn signals share the same bulbs and the 1156 is use for single purpose jobs.
The 1157 is a dual filament bulb while the 1156 is a single filament bulb. They look very similar but are not interchangeable. A common mistake is to put an 1156 into a socket for an 1157 bulb. This causes all kinds of weird problems like dash lights going on when you step on the brake. You can see in the pictures below that the 1157 has two brass terminals in the base while the 1156 has only one. The 1157 bulb is also keyed so it will only go into the socket one way. Note that one lock tab on the 1157 is higher than the other. This prevents it from going in wrong. Also note that the lock tabs on the 1156 are the same height so it will not go into an 1157 socket.
These bulbs also come in a bayonet style bulb and are keyed as well to prevent them from being inserted incorrectly.

To remove the round based bulbs you simply push the bulb in and turn it counter clockwise. On bayonet type bulbs there is a plastic tab that locks the bulb in. To remove these just use a small screwdriver to unlock the tab and pull the bulb out. It would be a good idea to wear gloves to protect your fingers should the bulb break. Replacing these bulbs is simple.

Sometimes the hardest part is getting to the sockets that hold the bulb. For most front turn signal bulbs and marker lights, it's just a matter of removing two screws from the lens, taking off the lens and removing the bulb. On some cars you can reach behind the light assembly and twist the whole socket assembly out and then replace the bulb. Marker lights are similar to the turn signals except most use a 197 bayonet type bulb.

In the back most tail light bulbs are accessible from inside the trunk. Some cars have a cover you remove to gain access to the sockets. Some cars have large plastic thumb type nuts that you remove and take the whole tail light assembly out. Other types have screws going through the lens assembly that you need to remove. These assemblies have all the bulbs for the rear in them. Back up, turn signal and brake light bulbs are all part of it.

Hatchbacks, wagons and pick-ups usually have access panels in the corners to let you get at the sockets or mounting screws. Most have the screws through the lens to replace bulbs.

This is where you have to be a little careful with the bulbs since 1156 and 1157 bulbs, and other types, are used back there. Depending on what type your car has, changing the bulbs is very similar to the front. Either twist the socket out and replace the bulb or twist the bulb out.

One place where you will run into the most problems is the Center Mount Stop Light (CMSL). Most are mounted inside the car on the rear deck lid. Removing these can be a problem. Some have mounting screws hidden by small plastic covers. Some have studs extending down into the trunk and are held in with small nuts. This requires you go into the trunk, remove the nuts and lift the whole assembly out. Some simply snap into place and can be difficult to remove if you don't know where the lock tabs are.

License plate lights are usually fairly simple to replace. Most simply have two screws, similar to the front, that go through the lens to gain access to the bulbs.

Below you will see 3 bulbs, 197 Bayonet bulb, an 1156 reverse/backup single element bulb, and a 1157 dual element brake/signal bulb

camshaft inquiry

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:16:59 +0000

For the last few months i have been racking my brain for ideas to make my car a wee bit faster. I recently had the idea to put a performance camshaft into my car. I'm wondering if anyone has done this and how much this adventure would cost me?�

At the lake

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:08:48 +0000

I often times go to a park here at home, kinda relaxes me. I like to go on nice day's and just walk. I went on this day, and happened to have my camera. So I took pictures of the car and some ducks as well. I still need to get the grills, and a new Pontiac hood emblem, and the exterior will be complete. As for the ducks, they were there, and I enjoyed their company, so I took their picture too.

T-Top Seals Leaking

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 23:44:53 +0000

When I bought my car, the t-tops leaked a little bit. Normally I wouldn't be too concerned with it, but I live in WA, and fall/winter is here and it rains a lot. So what is the best way to take care of the problem? I've heard of rubbing some kind of oil or something on them to 'refresh' them. Will that work? Or should I just buy replacment seals? I also notice that when I open and close the doors, the windows don't seem to match up with the seals. They only match up when I roll them down then up again. Is that normal?

On a side note, do they make louvers for the rear window on firebirds? Would that even look good? Just wondering. Thanks.

valve springs?

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 23:02:05 +0000

what valve springs would you guys suggest im running a comp 292 cam with Lift .501/.501, on 6x 4 heads for a 455
thanks

Side exhaust exit both sides before rear tires

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 03:04:39 +0000

With chrome side angled tips

Fuel Injection to CARBURETOR

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 01:49:32 +0000

Hey, i hate my Fuel Injection, so i want to do a 2 Bbl. carb swap. As far as i know so far, Edelbrock has a upper (3787) and lower (3785) intake manifold set up for a 2 Bbl. carb on a 2.8L v6 engine. But, i see that this swap is common on the s10 model of the 2.8L Chevy engine. Now what i'm wondering is if anyone has had any experience with this swap and how well did it work out. Also, i am having trouble finding my best option for a 2 Bbl. carb for this and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Need help ASAP

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 23:50:36 +0000

Ok, i i wahed it of this morning, the engine that is. and i drove it to work, it ran fine! just like it used to! i get off work, 7 hours later, and i start it up. It idles fine. but when i give it gas, it jerks like hell. it'll even bark the tires doing this. and the check engine light is coming on and off, especially at idle. Its not missing. It feels like fuel is cut off when i give it gas. and it dont do this everytime. What can this be? i bought some new plugs im gonna go put on right now, and a new TPS sensor, ill have my computer with me the whole time. so if you have any opnion on what you think is wrong, Post it up!! Thanks.

Headers Installed!

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 20:55:37 +0000

this was one hell of a job but the sound and performance is definitely worth all the work. here is a little vid of my new pacesetter long tubes and ory mated to a tsp rumbler exhaust.

video

The Window Motor Question

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 19:12:14 +0000

So I realize there are countless upon countless window motor questions on this board and how to know when it has died, how to install it and blah blah

I have printed out the instructions on how to replace the window motor and I have a question based off those manuals before I can finally get started on replacing this motor that I've been putting off for so long.

I do not have a rivet gun and have never used one in my life actually. I looked online on how to use them and they seem simple enough. But my question is the size of the rivets that need to be used.

The manual says I need a rivet gun that is capable of riveting 1/4 inch rivets. The author mentioned that he could not find that size in any store and had to buy them online. I wanted to satisfy my own curiosity and see if I could find any at a store, and I could not like he said.

But my question is, can I buy one of these rivet guns that does not have the 1/4 inch rivet nuts and then buy a 1/4 inch rivet nut from a website like ebay or something?

Or do I have to get a whole rivet gun that clearly states that it has the ability to do 1/4" rivets on the packaging? I'm quite confused about this. Also, there were some rivet packs that had 1/8-1/4 rivets in the box, but I'm unsure which part of the rivet itself is the part I should be paying attention to when I'm looking for size. In other words, to very tip of the rivet is kind of rounded like a knob and that size is 3/8" while the thicker part right below that is 1/4" Which number should I be looking at?

Sorry if this is all too confusing. But that just may be a reflection on just how confused I am about this whole part of the process.

So to simplify it: I have no rivet gun. How should I go about getting the correct equipment I need to do this?

Side panel edge / firebird door emblem paint

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:35:21 +0000

I have a silver 99' Firebird and I am thinking about painting the side trim and the firebird emblem and was curious if anyone out there has done this before. If you have any ideas as to how much of a pain or simple this might be, please let me know.

brain storm needed !

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:25:22 +0000

Hi guys !!! I've this problem for awhile . My idle is too high and get p0507. Replaced TPS ...IAC reseted it a few times.
Had been running good and today when I get of the freeway after a 30 minute drive .... pulled to the gas station
and the rpms where about 1100 ......... turned it off to pump gas . Started later and idles normal!!!!!!! It's driving me crazy
and I have to get it inspected this month. Any ideas ???????????????

heat

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 02:17:42 +0000

ok thanking caps on the intake on my bird gets so hot that u can not touch it is this normal on the 3.4l v6 motors my temp stays down below 200 so i dont thank it is overheating but i poped the rad cap off and thier is some fine brownish stuff floating in it could i have a partiol blockage

Tension houeing pulley

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 23:55:18 +0000

Need to change my pulley houseing on my 98 firebird v6, how do you remove the 2 heater hoses with the plastic caps, and can the caps be reused... thought i could just change the pulley but its all 1 unit, thanks for any info on this. bobby

Irractic Idle

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:25:57 +0000

I have had a very crappy day today, The hose, Idk what its called, its U shaped and there are 2 of them on the front of the engine. The right one split open today, while i was going do the interstate. I just happened to notice my Temp gauge was pegged at 260 degrees, i managed to make it to a gas station and tape it up and throw some anti freeze in it. I made it to an autozone, not the one i work at lol. and they couldnt find anything that would fit perfectly so i just got some 3/8 tranny oil cooler line, the thing is, the hose kinks when i put it on, and the idle is high, about 1500 to 2k. it goes back and forth really. My question is, can a kinked hose cause this? High idle that is, or could it be my IACV?

Heater hose question?

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 14:42:13 +0000

I had a hose leaking coolant that comes down from water pump. It was leaking where the metal crimps were on it. It seems to go to the heater core i think. I cut the section where it was leeking out and saw that there was some kind of little plastic restrictor inside that move back and forth if you push it , like some kind ov valve. My question is what does this do and is it important to have in it. I cut the section out and just put the two end of the hose together. No problems yet, but i dont want to find out the hard way or ruin my heatercore.

a question about MSG

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 06:50:28 +0000

on my 2001 WS6 one of the 1st things i noticed when i 1st went and looked at her is that there is a sticker that says "this car is equiped with a MSG RPM module kit legal for sale in california" i'm still learning alot of things about my new ride and i know my white one didn't have this on it. is this something that comes from the factory? or maybe something that just comes with the WS6? i did notice that she has MSG plug wires. i haven't took a look at the plugs to see if they're MSG also. i'm actually a big fan of the bosch platinum plus 4 plugs and the bosch wires. that's what i had in my white T/A. can i run the bosch with this MSG RPM module kit? and final question what is a RPM Module kit? and yes i know what RPMs are . i know MSG has some good stuff out there, so i was hoping that maybe i've got something good thanks in advance for all your help

duels

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 01:31:27 +0000

i had duels instaled today and keep it very simple

WALBRO PUMPS-regular or high pressure HELP!

Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:29:48 +0000

my 95 TA needs a pump. found a site that has em for 93 bucks. for my year they have 2 kinds. one is designated high pressure. whats the difference/which one is best for staock

thanks

CD players ...

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:33:29 +0000

anyone have any recommendations on basic CD players that will fit into a 78 firebird without too much modification? my radio ate it and i figured might as well upgrade the player and speakers. thanks!

QUADRAJET CARB

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 14:57:55 +0000

HELLO PEOPLE IO NEED HELP TUNNING MY CARB IN I NEED HEPL IF YOU CAN PLEASE GET BACK TO ME

water leak

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:41:38 +0000

OKi have a 1994 fire bird with a 3.4,i drive OK but when i shut it off old lord?? it leaks around the front crank shaft,witch the water pump is right over top of it .so im thinking the pump is leaking on to the crank pulley,,plus i have water vapor in the breather tub,so i got a new water pump and going to put it on ,mite work or not lets hope,do you thank it is ,i hope its not a head gasket that's to much poopy to take off.

reworked my build

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:20:26 +0000

i am working on a 1991 firebird i got rid of the 305 and am now building a 1973 350 bored .30 i got a set of 327 double hump heads that are 202 160 64cc ported and polished
to go with the motor.
flat top pistons, hooker headers, lunati rockers stamped flat tappet, lunati pushrods.
stock crank i have a holley 650 carb and a edelbrock prm performer intake. the transmission is a 700r4 im buying a kit from monster transmission to beef it up for like $550.
i am looking to go with this lunati cam. hydraulic flattappet. rpm range 2,500-6,500. duration at 050 inch lift 246int./246exh. advertised duration 300int./300exh.
valve lift with factory rocker arm ratio 0.515 int./0.515 ext. lobe sepertaion degries is 108.
i also need to know if my 91 700r4 will mate up to my 73 350 do i have to replace the flexplate.
i have one in mind b&m Flexplate, 168-Tooth, Internal Engine Balance, 2-Piece Rear Main.
let me know if i need a biger carb and go to a single plane intake? i need to also find out my rear end gears and what kind i have.
the rear end has drum brakes. the car is not a numbers matching car at all it has 3 layers of paint in diff colors on it i have alot on my hand and need some guide.
i would like to know what hp and tork im looking at? need to know the rear end to get 3.73 gear and posi unit. any other info i can get thx alot

Engine Upgrade

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 04:25:37 +0000

I Would Like 2 Know Some of U Guys Advice On Getting My Car A Little Faster. Anything From The Supession-Engine. Not 2 Big On What The Outside Looks Like but Cool if U Have An Idea...
My Bird Is A 96 Formula Its Stock Except Exhaust(sounds really good) & A CAI. Just Looking 4 Other Things 2 Add On...
Details Like Were 2 Get The Part & How Much It Cost & The Type of Improvment Would be Much Appreciated.

Just Wanna Show These Hondas Around Here Whats Real Power...

Need help with Vats on a 1992 Pontiac firebird

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 03:54:11 +0000

I need help with my 1992 firebird it has a 3.1 liter enging and a 700R4 automatic transmission.

Here's how the whole mess started, I pulled my origional steering wheel off of my car disabling the airbag in doing so a wire must have gotten wrapped around the wire going to my horn after I installed the new wheel my horn worked for a few minutes but everytime I turned the wheel the horn would go off without me even pushing the horn button I took the new wheel off and looked inside to see if I could see a wire that might have been spliced or cut and I saw no such wire. I put the wheel back on and left it as is without the use of the horn . About 3 weeks ago I decided to look again and this time dug a little deeper into the column I still didn't find the culprit that caused my horn to not work , I didn't have the right tools to put everything back together again and the ball bearings inside of the column fell out and the race was all bent up and I figured it was gonna cost me some money to get the bearings and the race brand new so I just went on ebay and got another column with a vats box and 2 keys that went with the column. After installing the column I took the pellet out of the origional key that went to my car and I took the pellet out of the key I got with the column from ebay and I replaced my pellet with theirs into their key ok, I put the key in the ignition and I noticed that I didn't have the ignition switch on the end of the column tightened down properly I started the car and it didn't start up at first because of the ignition switch not being all the way tightened down. I had disconnected the switch when I replaced the column. Instead of tightening the switch all the way down I continued to hold the switch in place and grabbed the little bar that came down from the inside of the column to turn the switch to full on to start the car and my car started I was excited at that point, then I tightened the switch down and then tried to start my car again and I had nothing. When I took the pellet out of the origional key and stuck it into the other key I had to glue it in place and there was a gap around my pellet so I filled it in with hot glue but made sure the contacts on both sides of the pellet were still able to get contact with the leads inside of the column. There possibly was a jump in current after I started the car the first time after aligning the switch and the jump in current might have caused the Vats to malfunction since there was a gap in the key since the pellet was too small for the hole in the center of the key. I took my origional key and the origional pellet down to radio shack to get the resistance checked and there was no resistance but the pellet was not closed circuit. That's when I decided to have the other Key that I got with the column measured and there was resistance and I had the guy at radio shack make me a resistor and I tried that last week and I still couldn't start my car and I even tried the Vats box that came with the column and that too didn't work so again I think I jumped the current somehow with that key and my pellet and that's what caused my car to not start again..

Starter enable relay

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 02:08:46 +0000

The starter enable relay is located behind the driver side kick panel (where the hood latch release is). To access, there are two screws that hold the kick panel in place. Remove the screws, pull out the kick panel, you will see a black plastic relay with four wires going to it. This is your starter enable relay.
This is a normally open relay, by bypassing it, with wire this loop will become closed.

160 or 180 thermastat?

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 01:06:36 +0000

hey guys just wondering what to order for my 3800 motor...does a 160 give off a bad code like I heard? if anyone has equiped this can you please gimmie some info so I know what is best to oreder? i think my firebird sitting at 210 degres is a little much..

Breaker 19 for the bandit....

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:53:31 +0000

One mans junk is another mans treasure. What would the Bandit be without a CB and whip antenna? A new mod in the works for the T/A.

And don't bust balls about the ricer poster ok?

Headlight issue

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:08:59 +0000

My drivers side headlight will shake when idle and when i hit any bumps. It isn't the bulb because the whole headlight will move if you move it. please help

BACKFIRE

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:59:55 +0000

i have a 93 3.4 and on start up it will back fire and it blowes the emission harness off. i replace it because the old 1 was bad now it backfires through the exaust. it has a lean code 64 that comes on over 3/4 throttle but not all the time. i feel this car should have more power than it does. it also bogs at wot but it i let off it goes faster. any ideas?

Will Not Start

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:55:47 +0000

2001 Firebird V6 about every 2 months or so will not start. New battery. Turn key and all lights come on radio antenna goes up but does not crank. This happens after driving and when in garage over night. Every time it then starts after about 10-15 minute wait. Is there possibly a relay problem or other electrical?

high idle issue

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:45:00 +0000

Replaced all sensors and engine starts and runs fine at about 800 rpm for a couple of minutes then kicks into high idle at approx 2300 rpm and wont come down even after warm up-no idiot lights lit

Car cranks but will not start.

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:43:12 +0000

Some times when I turn my ignition switch to try and start the car the car cranks but will not start. I THINK it has something to do with the ignition switch or relay but not sure how to check either. The reason I think this is because my fuel pressure gage and tach are ran from my ignition switched 12v wire and they also fail to come on when this problem occurs. I have to cycle the key a few times to get it to work and when it finally does work the gages all come on. All this started after a car wash (the high power under and upper body kind) a few weeks ago . Does anyone know of anything under the car that may be causing this that I can check? Thanks ahead of time for your help.

turn signal on cluster

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:59:41 +0000

ok turn signals work fine and i checked the bulbs but when the parking or headlights are on the left turn ind in the cluster stays on. now the right 1 glows but doesnt light. when i turn the left turn signal on it flashes but when it clicks off it light back up. any ideas?

68 Firebird differential color

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:41:45 +0000

Hi ,Does anyone know the factory correct color to paint the differrential and brake backing plates? Thanks.

Back half and 4link rear clip

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 07:25:40 +0000

Hi everyone just joined. Im hopping this is the right section to post this. But here is my deal. i have a 71 firebird and this car is pretty much just a street toy. its not in any way or form being put back to factory since its just a base model and worthless in value. I want to put a 4link rear frame clip in the car. my engine is putting out around 1197 horses pretty much 1200. has anyone every put a rear frame clip into one of the 1970-73 cars? Photos would be great. the main reason i want the rear clip is because i do not have tire clearance on the stock leaf spring suspension. i hate the look with the tires hanging outside of the wheel wells.

heater hoses

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:55:11 +0000

i found this forum while looking for answers. looks like a good active site. i have a '97, 3.8, auto. got a "good deal" on her about 3 months ago. since then i've replaced the battery, a/c compressor, both window motors, all brakes, many interior bulbs, the headliner, speakers, dark tint, bla bla. oh, and spent a full day figuring out why one cooling fan ran backwards ! (the connector at the motor was broken and was plugged in backwards)
and enjoyed her very little.
anyway, the heater hose broke at the "flow reduction" valve. this setup has both hoses coming from a "boss" behind the idler pully and has quick disconnects. the hoses go into tubes then back into rubber again before the heater core. i'm almost an old man and have never had my butt kicked by a heater hose. UNTIL NOW !

i've looked everywhere for the complete assembly. now i have it all apart and head scratching. hahhah

i want to revamp these hoses old school, and need help.

what keeps the hoses connected to the stubby nipple in the quick connect?? one pulled right out, the other won't.

do i put permatex around the nipple before sliding the hose on?

how can i put a flow reducer in a replacement hose? i'm assuming this slows the flow thru the core for better heating.

should i try to clamp new rubber to the tubing ? or stay all rubber?

am i making this too hard? hahhaha it's killing me.

if anyone has experience with these hoses, knows where i can find parts, (yes, i found a used assembly on ebay, but it's 13 years old too).

or can refer me to a tech article somewhere THAT WOULD BE GREAT !

sorry so long winded, thanks for ANY help.

nick

interior swapping

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 04:09:40 +0000

Well when I do finally get my bird up and running, which I hope is soon! I'm going to be looking into interior. I was just wondering if I can swap the 3rd gen dash and or door panels for the 4th gen dash and door panels. I seen the center console swap and it's disgusting, but if I was to swap could I keep the 3rd gen console in?

Sealed beam conversion

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 01:55:05 +0000

Im thinking about doing this. Ill get the headlight shell and an H4 bulb for both sides for 40 bucks on ebay, has anyone done this? does it help with the brightness?

Hood Decal

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:07:44 +0000

I have not seen any pictures of 3rd Firebirds with the bird hood decal on them.
Is this not an acceptable thing?
If anyone has a picture I would like to see it.
Thanks

air filter housing

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:39:16 +0000

does anybody know what this is and what it does

Tapping Noise from engine bay

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:34:27 +0000

I have a 1989 Trans Am GTA 5.7 TPI 4-Auto with 93,283 miles. Recently ive been hearing a faint tapping noise from the back half of the engine almost where the valve covers are but not quite. I not a rod. It doent increase with rpm and it will go away after driving just mostly when star up it occurs and a little into the drive. The oil pressure is fine, and i changed the oil almost 3,000 miles ago. I have 132 miles till 3,000 but will change it earlier cause this car was sitting before i got it. It runs really rich though, if that helps.

Local specialists and books

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:42:42 +0000

I am wondering how to find out local area businesses that do good work on classic cars. I live in the Birmingham Alabama area. I thought maybe someone on the board might be from the area or maybe someone could offer suggestions as far as a good place to go in order to find out this kind of stuff.

Also what books would you recommend for a newbie like me who wants to handle smaller upgrade / repair projects?

Thanks.

swapping differential

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 09:52:11 +0000

Hello all,

I am new to the forums and have a few questions concerning my sisters firebird. She has a 97 formula 'stock' with an automatic tranny. Well she needs a rear end and she located a used one out of a 2000 trans-am 6-speed w/3:42 ratio. We are wondering if these rear ends are swappable ?

any help or tips would be appreciated... or if anyone has a differential assembly for sale with something like a 3:08 ratio for an auto trans she may be interested...

also would it be just as cost effective to install a 12 bolt posi ?

Thanks

Ignition Problem (Firebird 1997, 3.8)

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:42:46 +0000

Hey all!

Hope this is the right section for this topic...

It is about my 1997 Firebird 3.8liter, she has about 107k miles on the clock and she got new wires (MSD), new modules (Accel) and new plugs (100k miles long life) a few month ago...

after that change, everything was fine, but now that is the problem:

at low RPM (1'200 to 1'500 - like I shift from 1st to 2nd gear) and when I push the gas pedal only a little bit, then it starts rumbling

otherwise:

at mid RPM (2'200 to 2'500) when I put in 4th gear and want to accelerate fast (driving up to the highway) then it also starts to rumble.

at high RPM (3'500 and up) there is no noticeable problem.

After a few times, I do know how to avoid that it happens (with a constant slow rising of RPMs there is no rumbling)

I already had a discussion with a member of this forum in the shoutbox, he helped me and gave some advice. (thanks)
- I put some fuel-additives in to clean the injectors and the whole fuel system (at this time the problem only show up on high RPM so the idea was that the injectors maybe were dirty so the engine didn't receive enough fuel when it is needed)

The other idea from the member was: I should disconnect the wires one after another and hear if there is a change, if not, the broken part is located...
but I can't do this because the idle is normal and even if I give a rev it sounds normal...

Is it possible that the alternator is on the way to get broken? I lastly put the voltmeter on it and it looks like everything was alright... (My powercab receive 13.7 Volt)

Does anyone have an idea what could be the problem or how I can locate the problem?

I tried to mention everything so you can get an idea of my ignition problem...

96 firebird hood fake extractor replacement?

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:35:48 +0000

Hello all I was wondering if anyone has either custimized or replaced with a part their heat extractor from the hood? I looked at mine and of course its a fake piece of plastic I was wondering if there is a real working one or did someone just take it out and cut through the hood to have some kind of heat dissapation? I ask this because I like the stock hood and would like some kind of idea before I start hacking up my hood lol i have looked online but so far no go...any info would be apreciated thanx guys.

aluminum heads $479?!? what you guys think

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:17:31 +0000

i found these heads on ebay and was wondering if you guys could give me your input. seems way too goodX10 to be true but just getting some other opinions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-HEADS-NEW-VORTEC-SB-CHEVY-SBC-350-383-400-RP_W0QQitemZ230392930495QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a47d20bf

Wiper arm problem

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:14:59 +0000

I just bought a restored 69 Firebird convertible. The person who restored the car out wiper arms that too long on the car. I have seen posts that state the wiper arms were shorter on the convertible. To fix this do I need to buy new wiper arms or should I try to adjust the ones that came on it?

Thanks for your input.

3rd gen seats in a first ?

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 22:55:53 +0000

I want to upgrade my 69 conv. interior, anybody ever put 3rd gen seats in a first.

Possible body parts swapping?

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 22:36:38 +0000

Ok, I'm trying to give my 95 firebird a new lease on life. Not that it looks horrible, but it's just a bit too plain for me. So I was wondering if the following ideas were possible.

1. I would like to take an entire front clip from a '98 or newer firebird and put it on mine. Hood, fenders and nose. Is this possible? Would the wiring harness be able to connect right up for the headlight and parking lights?

2. I know the honeycomb tail lights are possible to switch from a '98 or newer, so I was wondering if the entire hatchback could be swapped. I'm want one of the ones that has the raised spoiler on it.

3. My car has a 3.4 V6 with 170,xxx miles. Would it be easier/better to buy a low milage 3.8 from a newer firebird or a junkyard or something, or just have mine rebuilt? Can the 3.4 be increased to a 3.8?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

summit wheels vs. weld

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:26:04 +0000

hey guys looking to upgrade my wheels and tires and i really like the weld five spokes and the ultra light but i cant make up my mind. they are a little pricey so i looked into the summit brand with the same style they look exactly the same but does anyone if its worth to spend the money on the welds or is the summit just as good.

also i know im goin to have to modify the rear calipers for the welds but i dont know about the summits any info would deffinetly help me out thanks guys.

Alternators

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 04:28:19 +0000

OK!!! I have tried multiple times to post this chart without much success. So in my not so infinite wisdom, I printed the chart, scanned it and am trying to repost it as an attachment file........let's see if it works to where folks can make heads or tails of it.

alternator.rtf (4.89K)
: 3

voltage problem

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 02:17:22 +0000

ok heres the deal. when i fire it up in the morning it charges right at 13 volts. but as i drive and it warms up to temp it drops down to 12v. and even when i get on it it doesn't go up any. thought it could be the under drive pulleys, but it should go up when i rev it up but it doesn't. thinking it might be a bad alt. any guesses? thx in adv.

Importance of numbers matching

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 01:02:28 +0000

Anyone think it will become important in the future to have an original Firebird with numbers matching trans and engine?
The reason I bring this up is I remember back in 1972 we had a 1968 Dodge Superbee and at the time we had no idea that this would be important. We swapt trans and engines like nothing. Boy, wish I knew then what I know now!

I'm ready to have my tranny rebuilt by Bowler transmission, they do trans for Foose Design, HorsePower tv and others and are located in southern IL, or just replace it with a ready built one from them and give them mine for the core.

I would hate to think that 10 years from now that these Birds will be worth something and more if they are correct numbers matching. I'd shoot myself!

Any opinions are welcome to this thought.

http://bowlertransmissions.com/

Hooking up engine and transmission in my 301 trans am. Im lost.

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:46:09 +0000

I wasn't sure what section to post this in because it covers multiple categories. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this.

I recently bought a 1980 Trans Am rolling chassis. I'm a college student, so I'm not rolling in dough, and figured I could afford it if I put it together myself...one piece at a time. Hmm... Im reminded of an old Johnny Cash song.
Any ways, I bought a running 301 and TH-350, and dropped it in. I have it bolted in, but the previous chassis owner cut all the wires when he removed the engine and didn't label any. Also, the carb is off the engine(I do have it though), and there are a bunch of loose bolts in the near side of the intake, which causes me to wonder, "is there something missing here?" I wanted to find someone who has a 301 trans am in my area that i could look at and see what goes where, but 2'nd gen Trans Ams aren't exactly a common daily driver around here.

Basically, what I'm asking is for detailed under hood photos of a '80 301 trans am (w/ESC), so I can figure out where everything goes. I know its a lot to ask for, so if anyone can help me, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
-Derrick

Water flow and thermostats?

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:23:19 +0000

Well, I finished my car with new gaskets for the timing cover, and everything below and up top.

I put everything back including a new duralast water pump with OEM impellers.

Problem:

My car water gauge was showing my temps at 210-220 running down the road!!!

And it's 55F outside!!!!

Car has a failsafe Thermostat from Autozone. Temp 195.

So I test it in water, and it won't start to open (a hair!) until 205F.

So I go buy another stat, and another 195f won't start to open until 210F. WTH!!!

I'm using temp gauges. Both inferred, and the ones you stick in your vents to check your AC.

I also replaced my "in car" temp gauge sensor because its plastic clip housing broke.

Also, I have the air expelled and with 5 tubes showing in my radiator cause I wanted to see its flow, the fluid at idle is a little faster than trickling.

Question:

What could cause this problem??

Is the flow low because the upper hose is at the very top of the radiator??

Could there be a plug somewhere??

My system is pretty squeaky clean!!!'

Good idea or bad, run the car without the thermostat and see how the flow is at idle??

I'm at a loss at this point.....

Sorry for the lengthy post:sorry22:

1979 Pontiac Trans Am

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:12:58 +0000

Guess I'll start a new thread on the progress of my car where it belongs, instead of posting in General Engine anymore

So I'll have some more pictures soon, progress has been made.

The details:

79 trans Am, T-tops, someone stuffed an Olds 455 in it. Carb was a Holley, it didn't work it now has a Q-jet on it from my friend's race car. It is running good, transmission was junk. So I decided to toss the turbo 350 and get a 200-4R rebuilt with all the performance parts so I can have overdrive. That's being done right now. When he pulled the tranny out he found it was full of antifreeze so I have a new aluminum racing radiator coming, a transmission cooler with a fan, all new stainless hoses all the way around, and I tracked down some custom headers for that motor being in that car. My exhaust manifolds were all blown out anyway and I really didn't want to put them back on. Transmission is out, interior completely apart, exhaust manifolds came off without breaking anything. Got the power windows, dash lights, and everything else working again. Still need to fix the heater and wash all the vents out and put them back in. I also want to put a relay on the heater fan so I can turn it off all the way, right now it stays on low no matter what. May need to relocate my oil filter, it's gonna be tight.

I decoded the body tag today, not sure EXACTLY what it looked like from the factory but this is what I got.
79-May-Second week
Pontiac-Firebird
19L-Black deluxe vinyl interior
19U-Black body, Laquer paint.
A31-Power windows
CC1-Fisher T-Tops
Y84-Black&Gold S/E Trans Am?
BL2-Second interior color Black.

Have some more pictures I'll post soon as it comes apart and goes back together

Rear Right Taillight

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:31:39 +0000

Ok, so I'm not too bright when it comes to Firebirds, as my last car was a nissan, but I cannot figure out the problem I am having with my taillights...my running lights work fine, but when i push on the brakes, my right brake light dims out quite a bit...I have been pulled over recently for it so i am trying to figure out what it is....also my right reverse light is really dim, so i'm wondering if it is a wire problem, with a pigtail. It isn't the bulbs as I have replaced them, I'm not sure if it is all the right side sockets, or do I have a more serious electrical problem. I have a 95 3.4l.

Traction control issues

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:59:50 +0000

The TCS is malfunctioning on my 99 v6 bird. When its on sometimes it makes my car become unable to accelerate as if it cuts off the throttle completely. If i turn TCS off the throttle comes back.......Help?

2001 fire bird

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:26:06 +0000

hey, I'm having problems with my 2001 firebird v6, service engine soon light came on, changed all o2 sensors and it did it again, changed all again brought back computer read o2 sensors all bad, changed again and light came back on . please help!

5.7 firebird crank no start

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:09:44 +0000

i'm interested in getting my buddy's firebird, i think its a 91 t-top. its got under 10k miles as its been hit driver front fender and repaired and stored the past 10+yrs. i pretty sure its a 3rd gen as it looks sort of like the knightrider car vvith a body kit and big rear spoiler.

its got a 5.7engine. buddy changed the fuel pump already. i believe the motor had been pulled and reinstalled after the accident... had to reconnect some connectors. its an automatic, and shift selector loose so i tighten the brackets.

i'm goin thru the basics: dim flash, but a flash using a timing light during crank, so its got spark. my buddy traced fuel injector vvires back to the ecu, no breaks. fuel pump been replaced. fuel gauge lovv but isn't empty. it seems like its just not getting fuel... chilton isn't much help.

it cranks and cranks and cranks. it gets a spark signal as the timing light dimly flashes, but it just doesn't vvanna fire up.

vvhat systems to check next?vvhat procedures to check on hovv to get the car to command a fuel supply? fuel comes out the fuel rail cap, so vvhat gives? could it be the quality of it? coolant also gummed up in the radiator, but can't even get it to run to doa flush.

any ideas on vvhat to check or test to see vvhy its not giving fuel?

can i also get the firing order so i can make sure its right...though pretty sure its the fuel delivery.

-and is there any vvay to plug in a scanner to find the problem? or to retrieve codes...

thanx. i love hovv this car looks, and if i can get it off my buddy's hands, i am gonna take good care of it once i get it running. it is in good shape and lovv mileage despite the having been repaired and stored for over a decade.

alvvays vvanted my first muscle car. great price, so here's my chance... help greatly appreciated.

oh, btvv, i'm foreign to domestics as i've only ovvned import econo box's so part location and identification is rather difficult. so patience is appreciated ...

what a difference

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:21:39 +0000

Just got all the needed parts installed to actually drive the 73 safely since the tranny swap.

All I have to say is what a difference going from a th400 to a super t10.

Havent got to crazy with it as it requires an extensive break in period for the clutch, but wow, I think im in love all over again. May need subframe connectors now :-P

Is it worth it.

Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:13:54 +0000

Hi, i have a stock 1998 v6 3.8l automatic firebird. I have bin thinking about changing the cams, getting a slp air box lid and the slp cold air intake with a k&n air filter. I also want to get pacesetter headers, a new cat, and a Borla Catback Exhaust system, and after all that get it tuned. As i was looking around threw the forum i noticed that a lot of people with the 3.8l did most of the things that i have bin wanting to do and i was hoping that someone could tell me how it worked out for them (power wise) before i go ahead and do all this...... any help will be appreciated thank you

So im trying to remove my stock head unit and i could use a little help

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 22:09:35 +0000

I bought a Pioneer head unit to put in the TA, and so i went out, popped the plate off, unscrewed it and the stock head unit seems to be stuck, Now im not sure if i should just pull it and see if it just stuck on something, or if theres something else i need to unscrew before it comes out, i figure id ask before i just try to yank it out and mess something up

1998 v6 3.8

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:13:48 +0000

hey i just wanted to know if anyone knew what the 1/4 mile time is for a stock 98 3.8 firebird , i have looked around on different sites and got all different times and i wanted to know witch one is right

ses light

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:17:29 +0000

How do i check my ses light? i have a 95 pontiac firebird with a 3.4l v6, it has the obd2 16 pin hookup but apparently still uses obd1? i have heard i can use a paperclip on 2 terminals and turn the key on, i wanted to know how i can do it though, i dont want to mess anything up but i need the codes checked, thanks

68 Firebird resto. colors and platings

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:43:40 +0000

Is there a book on the correct colors and coatings to use when restoring a 68 Firebird? Example correct colors for the rear end and are the backing plates a diferent color?or the color of the leaf spring shackles? and so on.Thanks.

What are thise pieces?

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 17:05:24 +0000

Does anyone know What the official name of these parts are called, I thnk they are part it the A.I.R system.

They are attached to the top of each exhaust manifold:

One last photo shoot for the year for the 79 T/A

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 06:09:29 +0000

It's been raining here for several days on end, and I took this small break in the weather to get some autumn pictures of the T/A before it's long winters nap.

Shifter knob

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:45:52 +0000

Is that dang thing heat sealed on there? I want to pt on a B&M Hurst shifter, will it fit on there? i know they have much a smaller hole on the knob itself

Tinting my side windows

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:42:42 +0000

I am thinking about re tinting my side windows. There is tint on there, but its peeling. I know how to get it off, and i have had some experence with tinting, bt that was with my 84 f150, nice straight windows lol. How hard is it to tint the side windows? will i need a heat gun at all?

Tires

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:35:15 +0000

Much has been said about tires,size and width, how much we smoke them. White letter out, or black wall out. What type of product do we use to make them the shiniest. But seldom do we talk about the tire itself and their importance.
Your tires are the only part of the car that has direct contact with the road. Tires affect your vehicle handling, ride, braking and safety. For optimum performance, tires must have the correct air pressure, tread depth, balance and the vehicle must have the correct wheel alignment.

Checking your tires on a regular basis is an important step in protecting your safety as well as your automotive investment. Ideally, tire inspections should be performed monthly. If you drive over potholes and debris in the road, live in a cold climate, or drive long distances regularly, then you should inspect your tires more often. Always inspect your tires before a long trip.
The more often these inspections are performed, the easier it will be to find a small problem, such as a nail in your tire, and fix it before it becomes a more expensive and time-consuming problem.
However, properly trained and equipped service personnel should perform some tire maintenance, including puncture repairs, tire replacement (mounting on the rim), tire rotation and balancing, and wheel alignment.
While you are checking the air pressure on each tire, visually inspect the tire's tread and sidewall for signs of wear and road debris that may have penetrated your tire.
Tires depend on good tread condition to maintain traction and to shed water on wet roads. Tread depth should be checked for excessive and uneven wear. Measure tire tread with a depth gauge (available at most parts stores) or a small ruler that has 1/16" graduations. Although it is not as accurate, you also can check tread depth by placing a penny in the tread of the tire. Insert the penny upside-down (inserting President Lincoln's head into the tire's tread). If President Lincoln's entire head is showing, it is time to replace your tires. Take measurements in three locations across the tire's tread: (1) outer edge, (2) center, and (3) inside edge. The more tread the tire has remaining, the higher the reading will be. Uneven readings indicate improper tire inflation or the need for a wheel alignment. At 3/32 of an inch, it is time to shop for new tires. At 2/32 (1/16) of an inch, the tread wear has reached its legal limit in most states.
HOW TO READ TIRES

Tires are stamped with traction, temperature and resistance-to-wear grade and ratings to help you purchase the right replacement tires for your vehicle and assist in choosing a tire that will meet your driving needs. All of your vehicle's tires should be the same size and grades (the exception being some performance cars that utilize front tires with a different size than the rear tires). These vehicles should still maintain the same size and grade for both front tires, and the same size and grade for both rear tires.

71 Wiring Diagram

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:15:35 +0000

This is from the 71 Pontiac Shop Manual.

I also have it in high resolution jpegs, but the files are too large to upload here. If you need those, just pm me and I can email them.

71 Wiring Diagram pdf.pdf (5.74MB)
: 2

need info on picking a good NOS set up

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:03:21 +0000

currently looking at a dual stage kit from edelbrock that fits the 4500 seriers carb and using a msd digital programmable 6AL-2 ignition box. anybody have some input?

Schematic

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 01:47:06 +0000

Several have asked, hope this helps..........good luck!!!

Let me know if link does not work

79_pontiac_firebird1.pdf (193.57K)
: 11

OBD II Pin diagram

Sun, 25 Oct 2009 00:53:10 +0000

Can someone tell me or post the pin diagram on a 99 OBDII port? I have wires in 2,4,5 and 16. Is that correct? My scanner won't connect and I've read on this site that the Cig fuse powers the OBDII port so I'll check that. But if i could get the diagram so I would know which pin is gnd and which is power and which is signal..... Thanks.

1999 Firebird
3.8L
101,000 mile

sail panel speakers

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 23:54:45 +0000

I'm gonig to replace the sail panel speakers in my car because i want a little more bass. I have the monsoon system, and I have already read alot of the threads about replacing these speakers, but none of them tell me which one is the best for louder bass. So what I'm asking is, in your opinion what speaker would be the best to put in for more bass, and would I need to hook up an amp to them? I'm willing to spend up to $150 a peice for the speakers, so i don't think price is going to be too much of an issue.

What are the best places to order parts?

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 22:38:42 +0000

Most auto parts stores don't carry the rear carrier, gears etc. Wondering what are the best online stores? Price, shipping, returns, etc.

Considering stripes for my car

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:31:47 +0000

I've become bored with the "Clean" look that I've always liked on my car. I put my first decals on yesterday. My Buddy John gave me some red "Ram Air" ones. Now I'm thinking about red stripes. I'll probably only do the hood, then maybe the embossed "Pontiac" letters on the rear bumper. The only other idea I had was for the doors. Thought about "Formula" emblems but my car is kind of a 1/2 breed with the TA front bumper cover. Now I'm thinking about "LT1" on the front fenders behind the tires.
Anyway, just throwing my ideas out there and looking for opinions. I played around with some tape on the hood.

In this pic I was thinking of the raised part of the hood being red with a reversed(white) 25th Annv style stripe in the middle.

Changing the Tranny and Diff Fluids

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 05:34:37 +0000

Tranny seems simple enough, what kind of fluid should i use? Now the differtional. Is there a drain plug? or can i pull the whole cover off? Im gonna use 80-90 gear oil, should i use the limited slip additive?

Roller rocker studs

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 03:47:26 +0000

I'm looking into some harland roller rockers for my olds 403 and i was wondering what length studs i need. Can't seem to find a number anywhere on the web. Anybody have expierence with these?

digital egr valve

Sat, 24 Oct 2009 00:09:03 +0000

on my 94 3.4l bird the egr valve is getting so hot its melting the sparkplug boot on the plug wire iv taken it apart and it is not stoped up we checked it and all 3 of the valves are working has anybody had a similer prob

cheap supercharger to good to be true?

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:59:35 +0000

hello, i have a 1994 v6 firebird, and was looking for a cheaper way to make it faster (i realize there probably is no cheap way). I was looking around and found on ebay a "turbo supercharger". The price is way cheaper than a good product should be and i was wondering if this is a wise purchase.I also came across a product called "force flow supercharger.If anyone has any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. ��

winter is almost here

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 20:50:13 +0000

2 winters ago i wrecked my car on black ice, and i am very afraid of driving my new car this winter, so i have been looking at options.

first of all i drive almost 50 miles a day 5 days a week minimum, most are on a freeway and curvey roads in the hills of the country.

my driveway is also about 7 car lengths long, gravel, and is sloping up towards the main road, if it snows i cant get out of my driveway.

because i live in the hills the weather is worse and the roads less traveled, during most of winter we have ice, and 3 or 4 snow storms.

i have all different people telling me, sipes, chains, studds..... and i am just not sure which is best for my situation.

if i get chains i would have to take them off after the first 20 min. of my drive, and then put them on again after dark on my way home.

if i get studds, they will wear out before next winter because i drive so many miles and 30 minutes worth of the roads are well maintained.

with siped tires, i love the idea, but are they to good to be ture?

i know they are great for wet waether, and even ice, but will i be able to get out of my driveway? how good are they on snow?
i am trying to get as much info as i can before i decide on something.

feel free to ask me anything.

trippin balls

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:52:56 +0000

man idk wats up wit my car
i love it thankfully no one has ever tried buying it from my dad

but this poopy trippin balls
the checc engine light comes on n off whenever it wants too
usually when im going up something like hills or freeways

any ideas why?

200-4r

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:54:16 +0000

hey yall thinking about getting a modified th200-4r for my 79. Any main pro's or con's about it? I understand it is the same length as my th350, but crossmember is further back??
I'm only planning on 350-400hp.

79 console auto backup light switch

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:15:44 +0000

Hi,
I am trying to figure out where the backup light switch is supposed to be on my 79 Bird. The former owner left some open ends on the wiring harness... Where is this switch supposed to be and how does it look like? FSM only shows the column shift switch.
Is this the correct switch for a console?

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_images/img/sta/ns16-1.jpg

Where sould it be?
Thanks
flo

3.8 Liter Hard Starting and Erractic Idle

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:58:23 +0000

Hey Guys,
I have a 1997 Firebird. 3.8 liter engine. Since the weather here has turned cool I am having a hard time with my car starting in the mornings. Once it starts it idles a little erractic but not severe. The weather here is back and forth right now. When it is warm in the mornings the car starts fine and seems to idle okay. The problem only showed up once the cooler weather got here. I was thinking a cold start switch bad or maybe a temperture sensor. Does that apply to this application? The computer isn't throwing any codes at all. Once you drive it and stop at like a store or anything it cranks fine, hence once the motor has warmed up. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance,

JMAC

idle at 3 RPMS

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:43:09 +0000

Ok guys,

so my battery on my car has been about had it for a while, ive been meaning to get a new one when i have the extra money. but of course seems like something is always coming up.

Well every now and again ill have to jump off the car. Ive had the alternator checked, and it looks like the battery is just beat.

well recently, when i do jump off the car, ill notice the car will rev and it will make the battery gauge go up and down. when this happens the car will idle high. sometimes at about 3rpms. and i will not have to use the gas to make the car accelerate. it will accelerate up to 45 /50 mph on its own.

Any idea what this could be? I was even thinking it could be from a bad vaccum hose?

Is it just the battery so dead that the car is living off the alternator or is it a deeper problem? Sorry my explanations arnt the best.

loud clunk when i hit the gas

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 07:28:03 +0000

I just bought an 88 and when i get on the gas from a dead stop i hear a pretty loud clunk from the passenger side wheel area. Im not a mechanic so i have no idea what it would be. It only happens from a dead stop and if i ease on the gas it doesnt do it. Any help would be appreciated.

smallblock chevy mounts

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:15:46 +0000

I'm new to the firebird community, aren't there conversion mounts to put a small block or a big block chevy engine in a fourth gen firebird? Just bought a firebird with the sport suspension pakage for $700 minus an engine and trans. I have a chevy TH400 and a small block just wasting away. Also have a 396. Thought i seen a convresion kit for the 4th gen firebird at one time. If there is a kit how much do they run and where can i find one?

96 firebird t-tops, 93 s10 355 SB(very quick,for sale), 89 F250 351W 4x4

TPS HIGH OUTPUT

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:19:44 +0000

I replaced the TPS sensor, Still comes on. ONLY WHEN COASTING! Is there a special way to put the sensor in?

Help with a 3.2 Dodge intrepid!

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:59:59 +0000

Alright, My moms got a dodge intrepid. 98 model with a 3.2L motor. I got this actron scanner and hooked it up, and idling it was pushing 240 degrees!! at that temp, the cooling fans finally came on, Driving down the highway, at about 60-70 it was between 205-220. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the radiator, changed both hoses. Also, when i turn it off, i can hear a bubbling/boiling sound from the coolent resovour tank. I know that aint good, and when its cold, the coolent lvl is good. What could this be??

PS When i turn the car on after it sits for about 15 mins being that hot, its a pain to get it to start. it seems like its flooded. No codes are being thrown as well. I'm stumped.

MY NEW BIRD!

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:25:06 +0000

Hey fellas! I just bought my dream car! The kids are now teens so the wife let me sell my sportsbike and get this AWSOME Trans Am. Its a 2000 black on black with 113,000 miles on it. I AM a mechanic but I will need help getting to know the car better. I am almost done building my 73 Charger that I tried to trade for a Trans Am but no bites. My 1st project will be the Rear End, i will need the specs on the rear end and where a good place is to pick one up. Second is I think there might be a rear main seal leak, can i just pull the oil pan to change or do i need to seperate the tranny? I paid $8000 for this car....that was the cheapest i could find, all the others were above $10k. Is $8000 a good deal? Thanks!

Turn signals stopped

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 23:37:25 +0000

Well, all of a sudden my turns stopped working.....

The hazard lights still work and flash....I recently replaced like 8 bulbs...and when I bought the car, the turn signal flasher was bad and i replaced it....

So, any ideas? I was dinkin around in the fuse box messing with the air pump the other day...i may have knocked something loose.....ill check that....give me any ideas you got haha. its not lighting up at all with the arrow on the dash when i flick em on.

not starting

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:40:02 +0000

ok ive tried everything but it just wont start i have spark on all 8 cylinders but even when i spray starting fluid directly into the throttle body it wont fire any ideas

Air Conditioning goes out

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:23:11 +0000

2001 Firebird V6 upon excellerating usually above 50 like to get onto the freeway the A/C seems to go out until we reach cruising speed. Does this have anything to do with the vaccuum system and if so what can be done to fix problem?

3.8 Rebuild

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 03:24:37 +0000

Hi, i am about to rebuild my 98 firebird motor it is a v6 3.8 auto. I was curious as to what cam's, pistons/rings, and valves would be good for this motor or if there are any other parts that i could change. I am looking for maximum performance and horse

Transmission Mystery?

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:29:10 +0000

I was on another forum when a few people pointed out that my TH350 transmission didn't look like one and was wondering what I had. I too was stumped until I was looking at pictures of many kinds of transmissions equipped in GM's. I got to the picture of a powerglide and it looks just like my transmission, I seriously hope it's not a powerglide but it sure looks it. What do you all think it is? I can't do a powerglide!!!

Coolant

Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:28:03 +0000

As I attend more car shows, I find that I am approached more often than not, by the younger generation. I being an OLD BUZZERD by my childrens standards, seem to have ( Car Genius) written all over me. I know diddly squat about the newer cars. I am used to jumping inside and sitting on the wheel well to change plugs,and have pulled a motor with a "come along" hanging from an oak tree. I have also tied a split coke can with bailing wire, to an exaust leak until I could afford the $20.00 whole dollars it took to fix the exhaust 20 years ago. I am and alway's will be OLD SCHOOL. That's the reason I am an OLD BUZZERD!!!

#1. I am getting older, and with age comes wisdom. I am still looking to find it. (wisdom)

#2. I am NOT a car genius. I am however a car driver, and a chinch bug with my money.

#3. What little I do know, is knowledge handed down to me by various people, older than myself usually. A lot of the little that I know, came from my father.

And since I alway's tried to save a dollar and do the work myself, I asked that which I did not know. With that being said, I will from time to time, try to pass on these small tidbits of knowledge, in hopes that it may actually help someone. Please feel free to add anything that you know, or that I may have ommitted.

COOLANT

Your coolant is as important in winter, as it is in the dog day's of August. A frozen and cracked block, because your radiator was filled with water only is a costly repair. By the same token, a radiator filled only water in the heat of summer, causes only problems. Deterioration of components is the prime culprit in most heat/cooling related issues. Changing your antifreeze will go a long way in preventing lot's of these problems.

Changing antifreeze regularly is a vital part of preventative maintenance and keeps vehicles performing at optimal levels. To avoid engine problems, including freeze-ups and overheating, these easy steps to help make the annual antifreeze flush and fill a safe, uncomplicated do-it-yourself project.

1. Park your car in a safe area. Make sure pets are secured safely and no children are in the area. Be sure to check your owner's manual for any special cooling system service instructions. Begin with the engine cold and the ignition off. If you change coolant when the engine is hot, you risk burns from the hot coolant and engine.

2. Drain your radiator to remove loose rust and sediment. Open the radiator drain valve and drain the used antifreeze/coolant into a bucket large enough to catch the flow (typically, a two-gallon bucket is sufficient). Close the drain valve.

3. Dispose of the used antifreeze/coolant according to local laws and regulations. Be sure to label the disposed container clearly as "used antifreeze" and secure with a childproof cap. Don't use containers from beverages to store used antifreeze. Keep the container stored securely away from children and animals until you can dispose of or recycle the used coolant safely. We don't want the kiddies and doggies to get sick.

4. Flush the radiator system to clean the engine block before refilling with new antifreeze/coolant. A good recommendation is to use a cooling system flush to remove stubborn rust and grease. After filling the cooling system with clean water and the flush/cleaner, replace the radiator cap and run the engine at normal operating temperature with the heater on high for the time recommended on the flush product label (about ten minutes). Turn off the vehicle and let the engine cool off. Drain the system again, close the drain and refill with water alone. Run the engine again for fifteen minutes at normal operating temperature, allow it to cool, then redrain the engine and close the drain valve. Dispose of the cooling system flush the same way as you would the used engine coolant. It, as well as an all-water flush, may contain toxic residues picked up from the cooling system metals.

5. Check your owner's manual for actual cooling system capacity. If you have flushed the engine with water, add the new antifreeze to a level equal to half the cooling system capacity. Then top off the recovery bottle with water as needed. The goal is to have installed 50% antifreeze/coolant. Up to 70% is permissible when freezing protection below -34�F is desired.

Once the radiator is filled, start the vehicle and run the engine to normal operating temperature with the heater on high to disperse it fully throughout the system. Your owner's manual may suggest using air bleed valves on your engine or removing the heater hose to help purge any air that got into the engine during draining. Do as instructed. Shut off the engine and allow it to cool.

6. Tighten the child resistant cap on the container of any unused coolant and store securely away from the reach of children and animals. Check for any spills or leaks and clean them up immediately. Never allow the used antifreeze to drain onto the ground or into storm drains and be careful of spills.

7. Check coolant level and concentration after about a week of driving to allow the antifreeze and water to mix. If it has dropped, top off with 50% antifreeze/coolant. Make sure your testing method is appropriate for the coolant you used (use a hydrometer or test strips for EG or test strips for PG antifreeze). Special test strips are available that change color according to the concentration of coolant. And most people already know about the tester with the different colored balls. Adjust concentration levels, if needed, by adding water or antifreeze/coolant.

Below you will find the two most common testers to check your anti-freeze.

Rear End

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:45:13 +0000

I have a 1990 firebird v6. Not long ago I obtained a 1993 camaro z28 with a posi read end. I wanted to know if it is possible to switch the rear end and drive shaft from the camaro to the firebird and if it's worth it? any help or advice is greatly appreciated

Replacing Plugs

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:13:10 +0000

In the last few years, I have run into a lot of Bird Owners. A lot of these muscle car owners, more and more are taking their cars to shops for routine maintenance items. While there is nothing wrong with that, some things car related can be done by the people themselves. A couple of of these things are changing spark plugs, and plug wires
Lots of things have changed in recent decades when you talk about the "tune-up." Back when the phrase was coined, you had to get under the hood with screwdrivers and do things like adjust ignition points, replace condensors, set engine timing and change your spark plugs. Wait, we can still change the spark plugs! It's one of the last surviving elements of the classic tune-up. Most cars still have a spark plug or 8 in there someplace, and even today's technology hasn't stopped them from wearing out. It's an easy maintenance procedure that can make your car run more smoothly and increase your gas mileage.

What is a spark plug? Basically it's a high voltage bridge for electricity. When the electricity crosses the "bridge" (which is actually a gap between two contact points) inside your engine, the spark it makes ignites the gas vapors, which makes the engine go putt putt. How long they can do this without being replaced depends on lots of things. The condition of your engine, the purity of the fuel you're using, even your driving habits can affect the life of the plugs. But hey, they're cheap, so replacing them every so often can't be a waste of money. And while you're in there you can inspect your plug wires.

You're about to reach for those spark plug wires and pull them all out at once, aren't you? Don't do it! Your spark plugs fire in a specific order, and it's a heck of a lot easier to replace them one at a time without getting them mixed up.

Starting at the end of the row, pull the wire off the end of the spark plug by grasping it as close to the engine as possible then pulling. You might have to give it a little wiggle to get it off.

Now that you have one plug wire off, put your spark plug socket and the extension on your ratchet. If you look inside the spark plug socket, you should see some black foam or rubber on the inside end. This is important, because it holds onto the spark plug while you maneuver it in and out of the engine.

If for some reason your socket doesn't have the gripper in there, you can improvise. Cut off a half inch or less of electrical or masking tape and stick it onto the inside of the clean socket. This will make the socket grip a little more tightly on the spark plug so you can hold onto it.

With your ratchet wrench set to loosen (that's counter-clockwise) slide it over the end of the plug, being sure to push it on as far as it will go. Now remove the old plug.

While you have your old plug in your hand, take a look at it. It should be a little dirty on the end, a little black , the key phrase being "a little." If it's white or oily, this could indicate other problems so make a note of how they're looking. Also check to see if the porcelain insulator is cracked. ( Bob posted a article with pictures, on how your plugs should look, in the TECH section).

Finally, take a look at how the end you pulled the plug wire off is set up. Some will just be threaded like a screw, and others will have a large metal cap on the end. Be sure your new plugs are set up like the old ones were.

With the wire end of your plug set up like the old one, you're ready to put it in the car.

But don't I have to set the gap with one of those fun tools?

These days you order plugs specifically for your car, and they come already gapped. I know some die-hards out there will strongly disagree (here come the pm's) but I have never opened a new spark plug in the last 5 years, and had to reset the gap, never!

Put the plug-wire end of the plug in the socket and, holding just the extension, push it all the way in. Now carefully guide the spark plug into the hole. Try not to ram it in or bang it on anything because this can screw up the gap or damage the plug. With it sitting in the hole, begin to screw the new plug in by hand. Starting them off by hand instead of using the wrench will keep you from accidentally cross-threading one of the plugs. Screw it in by hand until it stops, then put the wrench on the end and tighten it snugly. If you have a torque wrench, you can torque it to spec, but if you don't, just make it tight without overdoing it. The metal in there is soft and can be damaged by overtightening. If you are pulling hard enough to make a sound come out of your mouth, like a grunt, you're overdoing it.

Now put the plug wire back on, and move to the next one. Doing the same thing until you are done with all 8 of them. Or 6 whatever your case may be.

fuel pump relay 1988 firebird

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:42:02 +0000

where is the fuel pump relay 1988 firebird.Thanks
Paul

How to make an OBD2 connector work with my 94 Bird

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:36:47 +0000

Is there a way to make an OBD2 connector work and read my codes for my 94 firebird? Im not looking for anything sophicasted here, lol im thinking like wires going from the plugin to the OBD2 plug in.

Sparkplug Wire

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 15:06:37 +0000

This is probably the easiest, and one of the most important items to check when doing routine inspection of your car.
Spark plug wires are pretty durable. They aren't a moving part so they don't wear out too often. A careful inspection of your plug wires can avoid any problems.

The only thing that can really go wrong with a plug wire is a break in the insulation. The insulation (the rubber on the outside of the wire) keeps the electricity where it needs to be so it sparks on the inside of your engine, not someplace else before it gets there. If the insulation is cracked, the spark will jump off the wire, or arc, onto something metal under the hood.

An arcing plug wire can cause a weak spark or no spark at all in the cylinder with the bad wire. This makes your car run rough and can affect your gas mileage. It can also cause unburned fuel to pass into the exhaust system where it can harm your catalytic convertor. There have even been stories that involve both a fuel leak and an arcing plug wire, resulting in a fire! It can happen.

A good time to check your wires would be while you change your spark plugs. So do a quick inspection and save yourself some headache. Here's how:

With your engine off, start at the distributor end of the plug wire and work your way toward the plug end. You're looking for anything that is not smooth, pliable rubber. Bend the wires slightly to be sure no cracks appear. Check the boots at the distributor end of the wires to be sure they are not torn or cracked. Finally, check the wires at the spark plug end one at a time by pulling it off the plug and inspecting the end for any tears or cracks. Also look to be sure there is no burning or darkening of the end. If you find any damage, it's time to buy a new set. They can be as little as $20 or as much as $100+ for a set depending on your application. It's worth the cost, though. A bad plug wire can be a little monster, it can even trigger your Check Engine Light.

What will the body life span be on a 4th gen?

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 13:54:23 +0000

It looks like a lot of the sheet metal is galvanized on the 4th gen. Between the many molded sheet fiberglass parts, plastic door and fender skins and galvanizing, what do you project the body life span to be? Wondering about things like spring perch, shock mounts, front end sub frame, etc. that often spell the demise of a car when they rust away.

Prospective Buy....

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 13:29:15 +0000

Well, I am considering joining the 2nd gen community (and keep my 4th gen of course )

Here is a link to the gallery with all the pictures...

http://www.firebirdn...=1314&user=7356

1976 Firebird Esprit
10 bolt Posi
350 poncho
350 trans
sounds great
headers
dual exhaust X pipe into a dual in dual out magnaflow

needs floor pans installed and new frame rails....The car comes with new floor pans...and after looking at the pics, idk if the the frame rails are TOO horrible, as it is a common problem with the F-bodies, and Ive seen worse.

The motor was rebuilt a few thousand miles back, and the guy put $2200 into the rebuild. Jay listened to it, and said that if I dont buy this, he will haha.

So what do you guys think? the exterior is almost flawless...the interior needs an overhaul, and it needs those new floorpans put in....

LET ME KNOW!!!

be gentle lol

1968 leaf springs

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:35:59 +0000

I have what I believe are the original leaf springs off my 68 400 bird. The Ames catalog has a listing for 4 leaf ,leaf springs but mine appear to have 5 leafs. Would the 5 leaf mean heavy duty suspension? Thanks.

how to find build sheets

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 07:19:05 +0000

Hi, I am sure this is probably a newbie question but oh well. How would I go about finding the factory build sheet? I mean, how do you find the information on what car was built with and what options and colors, and interior codes and all that. I have my car and it was only a shell when I got it so trying to find what it left factory with.

Low End Oil Leak

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 01:08:42 +0000

I have a 95 Firebird 3.8l v6 with about 150,000 miles. It wasn't in great shape when I bought it but I drove it from Oklahoma to Virginia. One day all of a sudden it starts running hot. I added coolant. Then it started pouring oil. I lost 3 qts in less than 15 miles. I think it could be the timing cover gasket. If that is the problem, is it a easy fix or shoud I take it to a shop? Should I replace the timing belt and water pump in the process?

4th gen headliner project

Wed, 21 Oct 2009 00:45:25 +0000

thanking of redoing the headliner in my bird
pulling the headliner and making a fiberglass shell to replace has anybody tried this before

Really need some help / 4th Gen

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 23:22:34 +0000

My driver side window (electric) just fell down as I was trying to roll the window. I have got the interior panel off in order to get to whatever is broken, but how do I take the door apart, I cna't fix the issue if I cna't even get to it. I really need the advice of the experts here!

tips on smoothing the fire wall

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 22:47:31 +0000

whats a good approach to covering the heater core and blower motor area for a flush, smooth firewall. I plan on painting it the same colur as the car.
shes a 79 firebird getting ready for a 455
thanks guys

JL stealthbox for a 98' Firebirdand amp qustions

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 18:43:47 +0000

Hello everyone,
I have a 98' firebird and am looking to get a new sound system. I do not have t-tops but dont want to lose my trunk space. I found that JL sells a stealthbox that goes into the rear side panel on the drivers side and doesnt take up any space. It is a Custom-fit fiberglass enclosure with 10" JL W3v3 subwoofer. When i bought the car it didn't have the two rear speakers (the ones next to the backseats) and I am thinking about getting new ones to install there and possibly power them with the amp. I put in a set of Kicker DS650's in the door side panels and just power them with my Pioneer DEH-1300 deck.

If anyone has any suggestions about if the JL Stealthbox is a good way to go or if I should get something different I would appreciate it. Also I dont know what type of amp I should get if I am gonna be powering the speakers as well as the sub so if anyone knows a amp that would be the best bang for the buck. I am thinking that I will only want a sub that can fit in that back panel cause i dont wanna lose any trunk space.

Thanks guys,
PBendel

just picked up an 89

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:13:21 +0000

I just picked up a 1989 formula firebird. It has a chevy 350 motor in it, vortec heads, and 4 bolt roller cams. I got it for $600.00. Also there's a 2.5 cowl lift off hood on it. It's primered black, body is in very good condition no rust or rot. I'm excited and just thought I'd share it with you guys.

Fresh RED paint

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:02:32 +0000

Yesterday I finally finished up putting my 91 back together after the new paint so I snapped a few pics. The direct sun makes it look lighter/orangier than it is so I'll probably get some more either today or tomorrow. I still need to adjust the headlight doors and spray a little black on the air dam, but other than that I'm done with the exterior of the car.

I painted this car myself in my gravel driveway. There are a few subtle body mods here and there. I shaved the antenna , lock cylinders, and the "bump" on the gas tank door.

Oh, should I mention that all the paint, reducer, and hardener cost me less than $70?

I finally polished out my tail lights. I'm sold on this now.

Close up.

Side shot

Handy info I found

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 04:11:32 +0000

I don't know if anyone has posted stuff like this before but I found it rather useful.

This site if you scroll to the bottom of the page has an RPO decoder if you would like to figure out all those codes
http://www.camarosource.ca/php/camaro_info_db/index.php?act=decoding&year=1971

and this is another fun link i found tells you the options packages and pricing of your vehicle. Just replace the 89 with your vehicles year. I haven't tested anything other then 3rd gens but the ones that did work out of the ones i tried were, 87, 89, 91 and 92.

http://www.gtasourcepage.com/89optionspriceinfo.html

Hope this was helpful to someone and not just wasting everyone's time.

HARD TO SOFT BRAKE LINES

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:48:49 +0000

Ok so im redoing the front brake lines and i have tried everything to undo the soft brake lines from the bracket on the frame. heat, pb blaster for days and they bolt just want to strip with the speacial line wrenches. so my question is howcan i just go from the new hard line to the new soft lines without that bracket?

new cam

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 16:17:42 +0000

Ok heres my question.i know this guy that has a 01 ls1 he poped the engine.he is offering to sell me his ms4 camshaft,ls6 intake,and his stock heads with double springs and chromoly pushrods.cam and springs have 4500miles on them.heads and intake have 35000 original miles.Is all this worth it for $1900 or should i put my money into some trickflow heads and a diff cam.i would to buy the set up i think its a good price,but my only question is will his heads fit on my 99 ls1 ive heard the ports are differnt going into the block.is that true?any thing is appriciated,thanks in advanced

leaking coolant

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 06:24:32 +0000

i already replaced the waterpump and it was running fine with no leaks for about a good month or so..now when i turn the car off about 20 minutes or so later there is a good amount of coolant on the ground..although while running there is no leaks at all...just when i turn the car off and come back to it later...theres a nice puddle...what now??

Engine replacement, what will fit?

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 05:33:04 +0000

Aight, I'm gonna be using this forum a ton, as there's a lot i want to do with this car. I've got a '92 Firebird with the stock 3.1v6 in it. it's a great engine, but i really find it a bit lackluster in power =(. If possible i'd like to keep a v6 in it, and just get a larger engine with a supercharger/turbo on it. I'm kinda looking for the best bang for the buck at the moment, i may end up with an 8 in it later, as i do have more than enough engine compartment room.

What would you guys recommend? I'd like to keep it simple and get something with the same wiring if possible, just "quick" swap out.
Lastly, anyone that knows what the stock '92 comes with, would i need a new tranny if i did end up getting a larger v6?

Speed limiter?

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:55:39 +0000

Well. I was trying to set a new land speed record tonight, going from Boiling Springs to Asheville NC in less than an hour ( Which i did) I was errr 'crusing' at 110 Mph and i pushed it a little more, and all of the sudden it felt like someone hit my brakes lol, it scared the piss out of me. so is there a speed limiter on a 3.4?

Wiring Diagram for a 71 Firebird

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:16:37 +0000

I am looking for a wiring diagram for a 71 Firebird. color codes etc if possible.
If anyone has one that could be sent via email, please send me a copy.
Thanks in advance.
Brian

full-tube hedders on a 90 firebird?

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 01:10:40 +0000

ok i have a 90 firebird, and i have been looking at a set of full-tube hedders from hedman. part number hed-68460. has anyone ever used them, and if so how low do they sit?
also does anyone know the stock ride hight of a 90 firebird?

coolant too cool?

Mon, 19 Oct 2009 00:45:54 +0000

ok heres the dilemma.... my engine isnt over-heating. in fact according to my dash it not heating up at all. so is there a sensor for that or am i right in a ssuming the thermostat isnt working and needs to be changed?

springless strut?

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 23:28:33 +0000

did these really come with springless struts? or is there something missing?

87 305 tpi issues

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 21:47:09 +0000

my friend has an 87 camaro with the 305 tpi/5spd i told him not to buy it cause i thought it was a piece of poopy. it was running ok until about a day or 2 ago. when he starts it it doesnt want to idle. sometimes if he holds the throttle open a little ways it wont even run. then when were driving it the car stalls a lot. and sometimes when you are driving it the car bucks hard and will only go 10-15 mph with the pedal to the floor. now for the other issues that may or may not affect this issue but i think they are related. when he puts gas in the car he can sometimes put in a gallon or 2 of fuel. but then when he puts more fuel in it will only fill up the filler neck. we jammed a wire down into the tank and it went all the way in but no more fuel will go in. the guage has been stuck on full since he got it so im sure the pump/sending unit in the tank is bad. we know the tank isnt full because hes run it out of gas a few times and its currently got about 4 gallons in it. im trying to get him to buy a whole new tank/sending unit that i found on craigslist for 60 bucks and i hope that will help but was wondering what you guys thought.

The rust...

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:36:30 +0000

Ok, so i got my bird in February of '09, the people i bought it from lived with it in Illinois for 4 years.
To my knowledge they never kept it stored, and never undercoated it, so my entire underbody is a mass of brown.
I'm not getting any problems from it yet, other than i literally have a hole under the carpeting on the driver side, and my suspension is shot.

I absolutely love this car, but i'm wondering if it'd be worth spending the time and money to fix it up, or just try finding one in better condition.
the rust isn't the only problem, every time i start it up (specially after it rains) the engine runs very rough and stutters a lot for about 5min before idling properly, and on a few occasions has actually died, and i have to spend the next 20min trying to start it back up b/c it just won't turn over.
I'm somewhat car-smart, but nothing too advanced, and rather low on the cash right now, but any advice/help/info on fixing this beauty up would be wonderful.

Thanks in advance, off to work!
p.s. there are some pics of the car on my profile, i can get shots of w/e is needed if it'l help

4th generation weatherstripping

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 18:49:57 +0000

Has anyone had any problems with the weatherstripping in their 4th generation firebirds?? I pulled out the rear bucket seats to sweep under them and it was soaking wet under the drivers side. Any idea what it could be from??? Its been raining alot lately...

Want to leave headlights up when off. '98 Firebird.

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:23:31 +0000

I have a 98 Firebird. For winter driving here in the north east its nice to leave pop up headlights up when parking the car in snow and ice weather. That way the finish isn't damaged by chipping away ice and snow to open the headlights, or possibly stripping the gear in the motors fighting the ice.

So I want to add a switch to open the headlight doors when I park the car without having the headlights on.

Been looking at the wiring under the hood. I see the Guide headlight motor control box, but I'm unable to determine how the wiring actually runs and works. If anyone can post a wire diagram of the headlight circuit, or knows of a way to power the headlight motors without the lights being on, I sure would appreciate it.

Regards,

Mark.

Brought home my 68

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:11:58 +0000

Here are some pics of my new toy!!!

Numbers matching, fourth owner, second family.

3.8 firebird

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 06:13:16 +0000

well i havent been on here in a while guys but im having a problem with my bird not meesin with my driving or anyting but like to know wats causing it. when im takin of somewhere it feels like my car is standard but its not it dont want to pick up speed real quick at take off and my rpm feels like it shhots up real high. i went got a oil change and it fixed it but it came right back a few days later. i dont know if its lifters oil pump or wat. my moms blazer was over 2000 miles in a oil change lol and it started doin the same thing and it has never done it so i know its something wrong with the oil somewhere any ideas or similar probelms plz help. remember its a 2000 firebird v6 3800

My 1979 Red Trans Am

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 04:00:57 +0000

Hey guys figured id make a topic finally of my 79 TA, just got the motor back and getting ready to put it in the car, olds 403 with 350 heads and big cam, ive already pulled the interior out to put a new carpet down, and also have painted the wheels and mounted new tires, this car only origninaly had 26,000 miles on it but the title got screwed up :/ get some more pics of the hole car shortly. my dad in the pic below

need help 3.8l pony mods

Sun, 18 Oct 2009 02:51:51 +0000

hey everyone im the new owner of a 97 firebird 3.8l i dont wanna do an engine swap so im lookin for some help with mods for the engine 2 get some more horse power please help

Look at what I did today!

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:57:20 +0000

Taking out the timing cover because of a faulty seal.

Used mostly OEM parts from GM and Felpro gaskets as well.

Hopefully done by Monday...but theres a lot to be cleaned up. All mating surfaces have to be scraped and cleaned.

But I have just one question for someone who knows what there doing (excluding myself ).

Can I put a slit on the lower intake gaskets to fit them around the push rods??

I can supply pictures if that will help.

Enjoy the pics,
-Mike

what all did 6x heads come on?

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:45:07 +0000

also looking for what year they started useing them on a 350?tia any help is appreciated.

How much oil is burned?

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:53:37 +0000

I was driving my car today and suddenly my low oil indicator light popped up.
I just changed my oil about 700 miles ago so that seems WAY too soon for the low oil light. I change oil myself, and I added 5 quarts when I changed it. I checked the oil levels in the car and it is indeed low. There is no oil leak from the car so I'm curious to know if my car is burning more oil than it should or if this is actually normal. I really dont' think it is though.

I'm a little curious and nervous about this as it just seems highly irregular

Another Turn Signal

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:34:03 +0000

My 1995 firebird blows fuses after 3 times of using the turn signal. I have never seen anything like this before and be very

greatful if anybody had some ideal of what this could be.

New carb!

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:04:48 +0000

Time to get to business so I picked up this bad larry...

Quick Fuel Q750

78 formula negative batt cable

Sat, 17 Oct 2009 04:42:16 +0000

I am puttin back a 78 formula that someone had buthchered up. It originally came with a 400 pontiac. I am trying to get it as close to original as possible.

1. Does anyone know where the negative cable is routed and where it is attached to the block from the factory. I have a wiring diagram but all it shows is that it is supposed to be grounded.

2. where does the small negative wire attach to? i am assuming the body somewhere.

3. the starter has a bolt on the back that looks to be for a ground. does anyone know if that is actually used?

Much thanks.

Replacement of door pins and bushings

Fri, 16 Oct 2009 22:31:57 +0000

I have a 87 firebird and the doors are sagging, making the interior lights to stay on. How do you replace the door pins and bushings? Can one person do this job or do I need to recruit a buddy?

limited slip rear end

Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:36:30 +0000

i am looking for a cheap limited slip rear end for my 89 bird where could i find one

What I did

Fri, 16 Oct 2009 00:42:08 +0000

Well this is how I spent my day today. Lots of fun.

please tell me what this is!

Fri, 16 Oct 2009 00:09:15 +0000

OK so i wrecked my car and it bent these parts. i have no clue if they are part of the frame or what. please let me know. enjoy my artwork lol. i hope you can even read it. i could read it just fine but who knows

Spark plug wires for a 3.4

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:29:47 +0000

One wire is different, Its hard to explain how it looks, but which cylinder should it go to?

So i might be going to buy this loaded Custum Sub box on Saturday, what do you think?

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:08:20 +0000

First things first heres the link to the add on craigslist..

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/1385208958.html

Alright, ive talked to the guy on the phone, and he sounds like he knows what hes talking about so i think i can trust they work, plus he lives like 15mins away from me, so if they dont...i know where to find him =]

Ok So Elemental Designs are some weird Subs to work with, because they arent the common subs you find in cars, the ohm configuration on them is weird as hell.

Also, whats not on the craigslist ad, he said for another $50 he will throw in a Phoenix Gold 600.1 Amp, and he also has a Audiobahn Amp with 3600 watts for sale too, but thats waaaay to much, i can see that flexing my body haha

So what do you think, good safe buy, or should i be aware, and i know you should always be aware when buying from someone, but does anything seem like i should look at it more close?

Oil Mayhem!

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:04:42 +0000

Doing my brake replacement on my 95 bird. I go underneath and fine oil on my K member, oil pan, timing cover, and starter.

When I bought the car, I had the infamous rear seal leak, but not the front.

I plan I wiping all the oil off the engine tomorrow morning, but my question is:

I do I find this oil leak??

Theres so many places to look, and it literally took over a month of easy driving for this problem to float.

The car has 78k on it and it's the 3.4L engine.....yeah I know, the 3.4 :|

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

-Mike

Just when i thought I was done with the car, I get this major problem....

grand prix gtp supercharged 3800

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:52:21 +0000

i have a local guy giving me a deal on a 2001 bird with a 3800 motor with a blown head gasket. and my brother just totalled his lumina that we dropped a 2001 pontiac prand prix gtp supercharged 3800 motor in to the car was hit in the back and the motor is fine.

Could i either take the supercharger off the one motor and put it on the other or just swap motors the only reason im thinking about this is because im really board and im out of projects. plus i want to see if a supercharged v6 could really compete against other real trans ams

Oil pressure gauge is bouncy.

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:17:28 +0000

Sorry about making so many topics. My oil pressure gauge goes all the way to 80 PSI when its cold, and stays at about 45 or so at idle, and about 60 just driving around. Could the sending unit be shot? I know thats way too much PSI, thats why im asking

Taillights stay on

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:12:26 +0000

This has happened twice, I drive home from work at about 11PM i turn my lights off but my taillights stay on, and i dont notice it till the next morning. I can get then to turn off by turning the lights on and off a couple of times, what could it be? The parking lights in the front are not on as well.

How do you attach Repop "PONTIAC" letters to 70-73 cars

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:42:53 +0000

I bought a set of repop "PONTIAC" letters that go on the tail panel (between the tail lights) of a 70-73 Firebird. The old ones (some were missing) that were on the car when I got it had some small stamped steel collars the would snap into the holes on the fiberglass tail panel.
The new letters did not include any of these collars. not sure how you hold them in, any suggestions on this?
Brian

Turn signal lights up, Doesn't Blink

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 06:55:10 +0000

Ok wierd problem, when I try to use my turning signals it lights up, but doesn't blink. When I turn on the emergency flashers they all blink, so its not a bulb.

Is there a specific fuse thats related to the turning indicators but not the emer. flashers?

Thanks!

Keep TPI or go Old School?

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:10:39 +0000

Hey guys Im debating whether I should just keep the Tpi or go with the carb. I just picked up a '79 350 and it has a Holley carb and intake on it. As of now Im replacing all of the gaskets on it due to it sitting for 7+ yrs, before then it was recently rebuilt. Right now the engine I have in my '86 TA is a 305 Tpi and the damn thing keeps sputtering and spitting but having just hit 160K miles and needing a tune I just dont want to pay any more for the shop to fix everything.

So what is it guys?? Go Old School or the present TPI??

I have time because I'm not doing anything major till the winter.

end of my rope with PO303 97 V6

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 01:40:46 +0000

Hi,
I am at the end of my rope with the PO303 cylinder misfire. The car is a 97 Firebird 3800 V6 145k miles. I replaced the coils, plugs, wires, and still getting it. Pulled the #3 plug and it looks great. I can still feel the miss, though. Car runs nice and smooth, but when you put it in drive and take your foot off the brake it shakes little. Got a stethoscope and listened to the injectors. All clicking sounds the same. Any other suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Steve

What performance mods to do with $4K

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 00:17:33 +0000

Trying to come up with a list of mods to do to my to my 88 5.7L FB once I get back from deployment next year and I'm giving myself a budget of $4K.

01 Firebird-- Interior leaks-- Water runs out from under the dash

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:46:17 +0000

Does anyone else have this problem? When my car sits out in the rain for a while, like while im at school, and i get in to take off once im goin water drips out of the dash and onto my leg. It really starts to come out if i go up a hill or gun it a lil. It happens on the drivers and passengers side. I had the windshield replaced last year dont know if that had somethin to do with it.

firebird 73 leaf spring

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:44:12 +0000

hi to every one.
i have a 1973 firebird formula 400 and i want to change my rear leaf springs...now the car has 4leaf springs and i'm thinking about buying OER 5leaf springs...what do you suggest,your opinion,the advantages and disadvantages of the 5 leaf springs...with the 5 leaf springs will the car lower because my rear tιres are very wide 295/50/15..need your help

are 3rd gen and 4th gen rears compatible?

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:19:11 +0000

hi im looking at getting a new rear for my 89 firebird formula (with a 305) but i just cant find any information if i can bolt in a 4th gen rear into a 3rd gen car. im looking at the whole setup on ebay with upgrading the rear drums into discs. just dont want to put the money in it if it wont work. thanks, brittany.

Leaking Injectors

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:13:03 +0000

Alright, well i screwed up the original set of injectors, and after 3 weeks or so of the car sitting there, new injectors have finally come in the mail. I purchased Venom Hi-Flow injectors FYI. Now the issue is the 2 injectors on the right side closest to the rear are leaking fuel when i go to start it. I dont know why this is. Has anyone else had this issue and do they know the solution?

Old T/A rims on fourht Gen

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 10:12:34 +0000

Hi everyone,

I was thinking about changing the rims on my 02 T/A for older T/A gen rims. I do a web search but can't find any photos on this combination. I like the GTA rims on gold and black, and the Bandid gold snowflake. My car have 17"s but I don't mind goin on 16"s, but there maybe other issues about fitting these Rims on a 4th gen, I apreciate any help on this. Please post any photo with this combination.

Thanks!

Ivan

Functional hood scoop?

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 09:21:42 +0000

I ran across this at another site. I personally don't see any positive HP gain for the expenditure of $129.00
Would appreciate if any 2nd gen owners have this, or know about to please post something.
All I see, is it serves for cosmetic appearances. See below to see the advertisement for it.
You would have to have a fan motor, inverted so it would actually draw air, would you not?

An easy do it your self kit for 1973-1981 T/A's and 1977 Can Ams.
This kit wires directly to your fuse box (ignition side) so the flap opens when engine is started or, purchase the optional kickdown switch (listed below) that will activate the flap when stepping hard on the accelerator. The '73 - '76 shaker kit closely resembles the early '70 - '72 factory components. Once installed, it will be hard to tell them apart.

No spark on 81 olds 307

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 06:56:50 +0000

81 bird not getting a spark. some heeeeelp! info please?
(I thank Pete W and 79/6.6 for helping a newbie =p )

Olds 403 engine paint

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:34:58 +0000

Hey guys putting one of these back in my 79 TA did they just get GM corporate blue or somthing different? thanks

4L60-E automatic

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:25:13 +0000

Got a question about the output-shaft on the tranny. I noticed when I pulled my drive-shaft out for service, the output shaft has some play in it. I can move it with my fingers about 1/4 to 1/2 in total from side to side or up and down. I noticed this when I grabbed the Drive-shaft yoke and shook it up and down and I could move it.
Is there supposed to be that much slop in there? I read all the info on the rebuilds and did not see a tolerance for end-play.
This is on a 1998 Firebird with a 3800 v6 and 78,000 miles. I did replace the DS with a one piece.
Does a rebuild shop make sure there is no slop there when their done with it?

Scott.

1989 rusted out strut towers

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:18:27 +0000

Hey everyone. Ive got and 89 formula that the strut towers are rusted out. I was wondering if anyone makes pre fabricated wheel wells for the third gen. cars. Im not very car savy... what is the best way to fix this other than junking my piece lol. Help is greatly appreaciated.

4l60e b&m mega shifter

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:58:29 +0000

Hi everyone I am planning on changing over to a ratchet shifter and the only one I could find was the pro shifter from b&m, the only prob is it says a aftermarket controller will need to be purchased, any clues what I need? Has anyone attempted this installation? Thanks for your help guys and gals.

96 firebird grant steering kit

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:45:54 +0000

Hi everyone first id like to say hi to fellow firebird owners and second I have a question about installing a grant steering wheel in my 96 firebird I have the classic series. I know it has an airbag and can be changed but I dont really care so please dont burn me. I saw the kit that works for the 93 and was wondering if it would fit the 96 model Ive seen it done already but couldnt get any information so any help is useful thanks guys.

Does this look Ricer to you?

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:30:23 +0000

I like to make things look custom. So I took it upon myself to make my 95 Firebird look a little more noticable. I taped off the hood and the moldings on the doors and painted them a metal flake blue. Now I need some opinions. Does it look like a ricer job? I was thinking maybe I should have used a darker blue. I mean, I like the way the lines look, just wondering what you all think.

Amp draws and formula

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:30:48 +0000

Below you will find an ampacity chart for automtive lighting.

It is intended as a guide, for those who want to know amp draws of the bulbs.

Your vehicle may have different bulbs than the ones I have listed. You

can still find out the amp draw of you particular bulb, by looking below.

Wire Gauge and Ampacity of Automotive Primary Wire

　

　

Wire Gauge Ampacity

Gauge--------------------------- Amps

#10------------------------------30 amps

#12------------------------------25 amps

#14------------------------------18 amps

#16------------------------------13 amps

#18------------------------------10 amps

　

Current carrying capacity is for 105c rated Automotive primary wire.

Average draw of common automotive lamps

Instrument/Indicator Lamps

#53(x) .12 amps (1/8th amp)

Stop/Tail/Turn Signal Lamps

1034 1.8 amps (Stop/Turn) .6 amps (Tail Light)

1157 2.1 amps (Stop/Turn) .6 amps (Tail Light)

As you can see, the average Stop light/Turn Signal draws approx. 2 amps each. The average running light about 1/2amp each. The average instrument light 1/8 of an amp.

You could wire up most lights/lighting with 18 guage wire,18 gauge would be practical for light bars and individuallywired running lights, but I recommended that you use nothing less than 16 gauge.(The smaller the number, the bigger the wire). I seriously doubt that you would ever run a piece of wire that was longer than 15 feet, voltage drop across this length is not a factor in most applications.

Formula for conversion of Watts to Amps

Watts/Volts = Amps

ie: 60 Watt Headlight

12 Volt Battery

60/12 = 5 amps

Consequently if you have a 600 watt amp, using same formula...600/12= 50 amps needing a #6 wire to carry the load.
　

Oil temp 96 firebird 3.8

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 13:36:28 +0000

Just did head job on the car and i was woundering if anyone new if it was ok if the oil temp is around 90 on idle and when drive it raise's to about 110 just dont want to blow anything again never really paid any attention to how high it use to be untill problems started so anyone got some idears for me that be awsome thanks

10 Bolt Rear Axle Code

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 07:10:05 +0000

I've been piecing together info on my bird, and am having a hard time with this one. My rear axle is a 10 bolt. I looked at the front passenger side axle tube to pull the code off of it for identification.
The code is: 5PM G120 1

I have an 81' Firebird Formula. I can't find a reference for the code anywhere. Closest I've seen is that a PM code was used in 77' to identify a 3.23 geared open rear axle. However, I have an aluminum tag bolted directly to the differential cover that states "USE LIMITED SLIP DIFF. LUBE ONLY". So I'm assuming that I've got it wrong. Anyone have any info to help me decifer my rear axle. It would not suprise me to be off another year car. I found 4 different colored fenders as I was sanding it all down for paint. lol (Needless to say this is not a numbers matching car. )

Thanks in advance for any help...

Car has sat for a year.

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 05:20:30 +0000

What should I do before I try to start it? It has a new battery and starter I replaced 6 months ago. The battery has been disconnected. Should I change the gas and spark plugs?

A/C Clutch kicking in

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 04:03:39 +0000

Topic says it all, i can hear my a/c clutch kicking on and off with the heat on, should it be doing that?

Rear end gearing

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:24:31 +0000

Hey everyone,

I plan on changing the gear ratio in my rear end. I have no idea whats in it nor any idea how to find out. But i would like your opinions on what to put in it. Ive been told either 4.10 or 3.97. I'm really looking for it to be a quicker take off but i do want it to be okay for highway driving. Any feed back would be great. Also is there anything else i would have to purchase besides the gear? Sorry for the noob questions but I'm completely new to rebuilding cars. Thanks!

Motor mounts.

Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:23:36 +0000

What side of the motor mounts jump when you go forward?

is it the right or the left motor mount?

"Scanner can't connect to vehicle"

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 23:17:44 +0000

I've tried with several different scanners and they all say the same thing.
I've checked my grounds but I'm going to check them again. My SES light is on and the car runs but i can't scan for DTCs and I can't collect any data for tuning purposes.
Any ideas?

another hei hook up Q

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:45:45 +0000

so im hooking up an hei to my 73' 400 and i replaced the resistance wire with a 12g wire and ran it to the "bat". Now i have to hook up the tach wire, but there is no tach in the car. one gas gauge spedo, and a large gauge with three red lights - amps brakes and something else cant remember. so do i not have a tach? does the hei need a tach to run?

Does anyone one have any insight on putting blowers on the 400 block.

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:52:59 +0000

Does anyone one have any insight on putting blowers on the 400 block. Mine is a strocker. I want to put it into a Front Engine Dragster. Good books on blowers, and such would be good input. Thanks

Why the price difference?

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:10:46 +0000

So as many of you know im in the market for a 98-02 F-body. I really like the TA over the camaro but i have noticed there is a significant price differance between the two. Why is that it's basically the same car. Thanks for helpin.

winter prep?

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:29:54 +0000

i had a couple questions about winter and the firebirds....i have a 98 v6 with a 5 speed if it matters at all. i was wondering if there is any special winter prep? im getting my new tires good for rain and snow friday. is there anything special u have to do with the ttops? also is there a certain amount of wieght i should put in the back end for winter driving? sry sooo many questions. this is my daily driver. it doesnt snow too much here but i know im going to run into it. any suggestions other than keeping my foot out of the gas on how its drivin in the snow? any help is appreciated sry again for so many questions. thanks

Where to put jack stands?

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:19:54 +0000

On the 95' bird, where should I put jack stands??

The manual says right under the front of the subframe rails, but after opening the doors,
it seems the body is flexing and my doors aren't aligning right....

Hence, the reason why I'm posting this topic

So, I'm putting my New EBC slotted rotors on tonight. Any help on this is appreciated.

-Mike

Replacing Headlight

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:17:15 +0000

Hey guys, I googled and looked all over the FBN forums, but I could only find fixes/ how to's on replacing head light motors and gears and what not...

But what I need to know, is exactly how do I replace the actual bulb for the head light? Like it's burnt out and I need to get it fixed (the low beam on the drivers side and the high beam on the passenger side)

Any help is appreciated. Thanks